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New RPR 338 Magnum, Can't Get Good MOA

rottenruger

Sergeant of the Hide
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May 31, 2020
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Ok, I might be, I hope I am premature posting this thread.

Have a new RPR 338 Lapua Mag. Was so totally enthralled with my RPR 6.5 Creedmore, I began salivating as soon as I saw Ruger had made this guy.

Am just getting going with it. Started off with some Lapua Match ammo, then a box of Prime Match when I ran out and borrowed one day. Just now getting my supplies in to do my own loads, the way I like it. But doubt my loads are going to beat Lapua's by much if at all.

Hitting between 1-2 MOA or worse.

A VERY experienced shooter next to me told me to get a single piece mount for my vortex.......he in fact found early on I had it mounted poorly, and he bore-sighted it for me, oh to be so versed! So I am thinking to buy a Sphur single mount, $400 plus, but it's tops, and I can use if for other rifles if it doesn't cure this one.

A pricier scope is going to have to wait a while on my budget.The scope I'm getting by with has done sub-moa on my 6.5 CM.

My biggest worry is I've gotten a 2 MOA rifle.

Like, I said, it's early yet, until I get that single mount and make some of my own loads..........

But any comments, hopes or voodoo spells you can offer will be greatly appreciated. This puppy set me back big time! Not like an Accuracy International or a Surgeon, but then I'm not in that class!!!
 
Couple things.

first, are you new to 338 lapua? It can be a bear at first.
second, take the gun apart, completely. Especially the barrel from the receiver. Put it back together. I bet it shoots better.
 
Brand new.

Will do. That's gonna be an education itself, but I want that rifle to do as good as I expected it to.

Thanks.
 
Brand new.

Will do. That's gonna be an education itself, but I want that rifle to do as good as I expected it to.

Thanks.
rugers are known to be way over torqued at the barrel nut from the factory. Disassemble. Clean. Relube and reassemble the proper way. My guess it will shoot better. What bullet you shooting?
 
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Started with Lapua's 16.2g, 250 gr GB488 OT Scenar. Then some Prime Match. Just now getting my primers in so I can do my own loads.

Tks!
 
Unless you’re a qualified gunsmith I’d send it back to Ruger.
 
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I am in a battle with a 338 RPR as well. Same background with a 6.5, blah blah blah. For me, I’m a new magnum shooter as well. I didn’t think it was me, until I short stroked the bolt and pulled the trigger on an empty chamber. I found out at that moment that it is me. Still settling in on it, but I’m getting better. I have found out that mine hates 250gr class or bullets. It didn’t start shooting well till 285’s. I would suggest a heavier bullet and some time to get used to the massive explosion going off 3 feet in front of your face lol.
 
I am in a battle with a 338 RPR as well. Same background with a 6.5, blah blah blah. For me, I’m a new magnum shooter as well. I didn’t think it was me, until I short stroked the bolt and pulled the trigger on an empty chamber. I found out at that moment that it is me. Still settling in on it, but I’m getting better. I have found out that mine hates 250gr class or bullets. It didn’t start shooting well till 285’s. I would suggest a heavier bullet and some time to get used to the massive explosion going off 3 feet in front of your face lol.
Agree. I think the 285’s are the sweet spot. 300’s aren’t that great.
 
A $400 Spuhr scope mount holding a cheap scope isn’t gonna make any more difference than a $100 Burris or leupold mount will. If you send it back to Ruger they should at a minimum shoot a test target. If there’s a problem they’ll fix it and if not... sell that cannon.
 
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May not want to hear it but I highly doubt it's the rifle. I guess you could have an extreme oddball but the 338 RPRs I've seen shot MOA or less at 1k. You should be seeing somewhat steady .5 moa out of the 6.5 CM at 100.
 
I am in a battle with a 338 RPR as well. Same background with a 6.5, blah blah blah. For me, I’m a new magnum shooter as well. I didn’t think it was me, until I short stroked the bolt and pulled the trigger on an empty chamber. I found out at that moment that it is me. Still settling in on it, but I’m getting better. I have found out that mine hates 250gr class or bullets. It didn’t start shooting well till 285’s. I would suggest a heavier bullet and some time to get used to the massive explosion going off 3 feet in front of your face lol.

Thanks! Will be studying all these different suggestions. This one is certainly valid, forgot that for some rifles you have to discover what it likes to eat.
 
May not want to hear it but I highly doubt it's the rifle. I guess you could have an extreme oddball but the 338 RPRs I've seen shot MOA or less at 1k. You should be seeing somewhat steady .5 moa out of the 6.5 CM at 100.

\I get that from my 6.5, or close enough to it, "tack-driving", and I love it. I want the same from the 338. Will experiment with diff bullet loads and weights and see if I can get it up to snuff. Thanks!
 
A $400 Spuhr scope mount holding a cheap scope isn’t gonna make any more difference than a $100 Burris or leupold mount will. If you send it back to Ruger they should at a minimum shoot a test target. If there’s a problem they’ll fix it and if not... sell that cannon.

I'll play with remedies and send it back as a last resort. Hope they'll do better than Ford when Ford just tells me "everything's in spec now leave". If they can tell me whether it's the rifle, the optics or me.......then I better know what to do.

Thanks
 
A $400 Spuhr scope mount holding a cheap scope isn’t gonna make any more difference than a $100 Burris or leupold mount will. If you send it back to Ruger they should at a minimum shoot a test target. If there’s a problem they’ll fix it and if not... sell that cannon.

Yeah, but with a Spuhr I will know it's not a slipping scope mount or such causing my variation. Tks!
 
It’s an RPR. If you can’t take your gun apart and put it back together you probably shouldn’t shoot it. It’s basically the AR15 of bolt guns.

I'm no smith, but I'll figure out to break it down, clean it up and reassemble, to test this theory out. Thanks!
 
Unless you’re a qualified gunsmith I’d send it back to Ruger.

Thanks! Hadn't thought of that at all yet. Will try this and that of suggestions here, cleaning, reload variations, etc........and THIS will be my last recourse. Ruger should at least test fire it and tell me whether it's the rifle or me and mine. Than I'd know what to do.

Thanks!
 
For many people, when they make the move from smaller rounds to magnums, small technique issues that didn't cause many noticeable problems are suddenly magnified.

Things to think about:

- Are you tensing up? People tend to try to muscle magnums into behaving. That has the opposite effect. Roll with the punches instead.
- Are you flinching? Load a dummy round (no or spent primer, and no powder), and have a friend load your mag for you, placing said round in a random position. You will see very quickly whether you have a flinch.
 
I myself haven't shot the .338 in RPR but have shot the 300WM. Not sure what the recoil is on the .338 but are you able to control it well. I know the 300WM hits a bit but definitely manageable. Of course I also have occasion to shoot a fairly (too) lightweight 7mmrm which hits like a damn mule. If you are having issues managing the recoil you could be having POI issues due to that.
My 6.5 CM I can shoot 100 rounds and not feel anything, that sumbitch 7mmrm if I shoot 40 rounds I'll have a purple spot the size of a fist.
The loading full on dummies is a good idea. You'll see if you jerk or just generally incur some bad fundamentals. Heavy recoil can help your mind mask those issues as not having happened.
 
Ok, I might be, I hope I am premature posting this thread.

Have a new RPR 338 Lapua Mag. Was so totally enthralled with my RPR 6.5 Creedmore, I began salivating as soon as I saw Ruger had made this guy.

Am just getting going with it. Started off with some Lapua Match ammo, then a box of Prime Match when I ran out and borrowed one day. Just now getting my supplies in to do my own loads, the way I like it. But doubt my loads are going to beat Lapua's by much if at all.

Hitting between 1-2 MOA or worse.

A VERY experienced shooter next to me told me to get a single piece mount for my vortex.......he in fact found early on I had it mounted poorly, and he bore-sighted it for me, oh to be so versed! So I am thinking to buy a Sphur single mount, $400 plus, but it's tops, and I can use if for other rifles if it doesn't cure this one.

A pricier scope is going to have to wait a while on my budget.The scope I'm getting by with has done sub-moa on my 6.5 CM.

My biggest worry is I've gotten a 2 MOA rifle.

Like, I said, it's early yet, until I get that single mount and make some of my own loads..........

But any comments, hopes or voodoo spells you can offer will be greatly appreciated. This puppy set me back big time! Not like an Accuracy International or a Surgeon, but then I'm not in that class!!!

Have a known good shooter (preferably someone who has experience shooting magnums) shoot the rifle using factory match ammo at 300-500 yards to see how it performs. If you’re brand new to 338, it will take you some take to tame/manage the increased recoil so 2 MOA groups may just be a product of where you are on the learning curve. If the other shooter can’t get it to perform and potential issues with your scope and/or mount have been ruled out, I’d prob call Ruger and see what they say.
 
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Yeah, but with a Spuhr I will know it's not a slipping scope mount or such causing my variation. Tks!
I understand the need to rule that out and it needs to be done. I’m just saying you don’t have to spend $400 to hold your scope. I’ve used standard leupold rings and 1 piece bases forever. They cost about $50 but work just fine. I’ve never had a problem with them and one set has been on my 300wm for nearly 20 years. If it makes you feel better then get a spuhr mount you can always sell it and get your money back later.
 
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I have a 300wm version that didn't shoot well until I put a krieger barrel on it.

I think the factory barrels accuracy is hit or miss, no pun intended. Some work others dont. It's a cheap mass produced hammer forged barrel so that's the reality of it. I think the more modern cartridges with tighter specs are better for cheap, mass produced barrels. The .308 and .300wm seen to be more variable than 6mm, 6 5 etc.. Lesson if you buy a budget RPR get one chambered in a more modern cartridge.

I offered my factory barrel back to Ruger to inspect it and they never answered. It's of no use to me.
 
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I've got the same rifle. I've got some decent groups with 285 ELD-M in the low 5s. The 300 A-Tip came out and I had to try them but got only a couple groups below MOA, and barely at that. Any rifle can be finicky about bullets, even in the same weight class.

I wouldn't consider anything other than a one piece mount for precision. I put a $100 Warne on it and lapped them. I can't see how an extra $300 will be better.

I did see a few things that point the finger of blame directly at the nut that holds the trigger. Asking someone who is known to be an excellent marksman behind a magnum to shoot a few groups should be done before blaming the rifle and sending it back.
 
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338s have some punch, especially for guys used to smaller calibers. I did some load work for a buddys savage 338lm chassis gun, all bone stock. I was experienced with 308 and smaller cartridges. It does take some getting used to. I was able to come up with a load that shot in the .4s with 300gr smk and h1000. I had several triangle shaped 1 hole 3 shot groups, but I do remember "expecting" that punch for the 4th or 5th shot.

I'm not terribly impressed with the savage or rugers brake. Its not that they are junk, per say, but there are more effective brakes available. If I'm gonna have to live with the noise/concussion of a brake, I want one that is most effective.

Ive got a spuhr, a couple badger unimounts, a couple mpa mounts and ive got several seekins/badger/mk4 rings holding scopes on. I cannot tell any difference in zero retention or accuracy to say one is best. High quality base, loctited and torqued, high quality rings loctited and torqued, with a quality scope eliminates just about all the concerns one might have on scope retention.

I had a gen2 rpr in 6creed. It was a fair shooter, about 5/8moa with factory barrel. It was a slow barrel and ended upgrading to a criterion. It was better in every way, cleaned better, shot better, and was 120fps faster with similar powder charge after barrel sped up. You are dealing with a mass produced factory rifle, just cause Joe Bob on the interwebs 338 lapua shot .150" groups doesn't mean they all do. This is why guys buy custom, to hedge their bet. Accuracy and consistency is almost guaranteed. Good luck and I hope you get it sorted out.
 
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For many people, when they make the move from smaller rounds to magnums, small technique issues that didn't cause many noticeable problems are suddenly magnified.

Things to think about:

- Are you tensing up? People tend to try to muscle magnums into behaving. That has the opposite effect. Roll with the punches instead.
- Are you flinching? Load a dummy round (no or spent primer, and no powder), and have a friend load your mag for you, placing said round in a random position. You will see very quickly whether you have a flinch.


Thanks, something for me to check but I don't believe it to be the problem. I've a Weatherby 300 Mag with no brake with which shooting one box gives me a sore shoulder. The 338 has a huge brake on it and is surprisingly light in the recoil!

But I do believe I'll try that dummy round in the magazine. Thanks!
 
I've got the same rifle. I've got some decent groups with 285 ELD-M in the low 5s. The 300 A-Tip came out and I had to try them but got only a couple groups below MOA, and barely at that. Any rifle can be finicky about bullets, even in the same weight class.

I wouldn't consider anything other than a one piece mount for precision. I put a $100 Warne on it and lapped them. I can't see how an extra $300 will be better.

I did see a few things that point the finger of blame directly at the nut that holds the trigger. Asking someone who is known to be an excellent marksman behind a magnum to shoot a few groups should be done before blaming the rifle and sending it back.



The nut that holds the trigger? Aha! I'll have to get some other shooters on it. Thanks!
 
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Thanks, something for me to check but I don't believe it to be the problem. I've a Weatherby 300 Mag with no brake with which shooting one box gives me a sore shoulder. The 338 has a huge brake on it and is surprisingly light in the recoil!

But I do believe I'll try that dummy round in the magazine. Thanks!
Curious, what bipod?
 
338s have some punch, especially for guys used to smaller calibers. I did some load work for a buddys savage 338lm chassis gun, all bone stock. I was experienced with 308 and smaller cartridges. It does take some getting used to. I was able to come up with a load that shot in the .4s with 300gr smk and h1000. I had several triangle shaped 1 hole 3 shot groups, but I do remember "expecting" that punch for the 4th or 5th shot.

I'm not terribly impressed with the savage or rugers brake. Its not that they are junk, per say, but there are more effective brakes available. If I'm gonna have to live with the noise/concussion of a brake, I want one that is most effective.

Ive got a spuhr, a couple badger unimounts, a couple mpa mounts and ive got several seekins/badger/mk4 rings holding scopes on. I cannot tell any difference in zero retention or accuracy to say one is best. High quality base, loctited and torqued, high quality rings loctited and torqued, with a quality scope eliminates just about all the concerns one might have on scope retention.

I had a gen2 rpr in 6creed. It was a fair shooter, about 5/8moa with factory barrel. It was a slow barrel and ended upgrading to a criterion. It was better in every way, cleaned better, shot better, and was 120fps faster with similar powder charge after barrel sped up. You are dealing with a mass produced factory rifle, just cause Joe Bob on the interwebs 338 lapua shot .150" groups doesn't mean they all do. This is why guys buy custom, to hedge their bet. Accuracy and consistency is almost guaranteed. Good luck and I hope you get it sorted out.

Thanks much! you guys have been giving me plenty to consider and apply. Soon as my magnum primers come in I'm gonna load up a batch and keep experimenting. Started shooting with Lapua 250gr but will be reloading with 285 ELD, so perhaps the extra weight alone will help me some. Tks.
 
Interesting question. I'm 70 and don't do well with bipods......perhaps because I don't work with them much at all?

I use a Bulls Bag on top of 8-9 layers of 1/2 inch rubber flooring squares, everything stays mostly in place and steady. The Bulls Bag grips the rifle handle, the rubber squares can be reduced or added to fit the height needed. Then a decent little bag for the other end. I was taught to try to minimize my contact with the weapon to keep muscle movement away. The stock stuck into my shoulder and my finger pad on the trigger is about it. I can still see my heartbeat ticking on the crosshairs, so have a ways to go yet in my technique. I shoot purely target, bench style.

My son-in-law tells me the Zombies aren't going to wait for me to get all my gear set up when they come for me........

If I ever get fully retired I'll start working with the bipods, need that competency for some of the ranges and matches I'd like to participate in.

Thanks!
 
Get a bipod....not a Harris one. that Lapua needs support. The bags just aren’t going to cut it. although I do believe that all RPR’s need to be torn down and rebuilt I’m leaning more toward technique and equipment in this case based on the limited information.
 
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When I got my first (and still only) magnum rifle, it took me about 200 rounds to get settled with it. It is a .300 Winchester Magnum.
The .338 burns close to another 20 grains of powder, with heavier bullets. So I can imagine that it has some kick to it. This will make it harder.

A good bipod is a must have.
Im sure you will get along with it, in time.
 
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When I got my first (and still only) magnum rifle, it took me about 200 rounds to get settled with it. It is a .300 Winchester Magnum.
The .338 burns close to another 20 grains of powder, with heavier bullets. So I can imagine that it has some kick too it. This will make it harder.

A good bipod is a must have.
Im sure you will get along with it, in time.
I don’t find these big magnums to recoil harder with a brake. Most recoil less than an non braked mid weight .308. They do have more noise and blast though. This can create negative results. The recoil not so much.
 
When I got my first (and still only) magnum rifle, it took me about 200 rounds to get settled with it. It is a .300 Winchester Magnum.
The .338 burns close to another 20 grains of powder, with heavier bullets. So I can imagine that it has some kick too it. This will make it harder.

A good bipod is a must have.
Im sure you will get along with it, in time.
Thanks! Here's hoping.....
 
Get a bipod....not a Harris one. that Lapua needs support. The bags just aren’t going to cut it. although I do believe that all RPR’s need to be torn down and rebuilt I’m leaning more toward technique and equipment in this case based on the limited information.


Thanks! Need a bipod anyway for a certain match I'd likle to shoot in (if I ever get a handle on this RPR)....... the possibility
of a good bipod being the solution or even part of the solution makes it more imperative!
 
Brand new to precision rifles, or just brand new to 338?

If the latter, what's your experience with LR rifles and shooting?

New to the 338. Have a RPR in 6.5 CM that I dearly love, it shoots FLAT. I have 1/2 MOA groups with it on my good days. I'm getting experienced now out to 500. Got a long ways to go to 1000 and beyond. 500 is the longest range within a hundred miles. Have a 1MOA Weathersby 300 Mag and a tricked out 270 Win and a bunch of mainly lesser toys.

I also have a lot to learn about optics, and need some better scopes for the distances I hope to be shooting eventually. Using Sightron and Vortex presently.

Mostly all easy shooting so far on the 500, no bad wind problems, hardly any mirage at all, perhaps not far enough.

Thanks for any suggestions!
 
New to the 338. Have a RPR in 6.5 CM that I dearly love, it shoots FLAT. I have 1/2 MOA groups with it on my good days. I'm getting experienced now out to 500. Got a long ways to go to 1000 and beyond. 500 is the longest range within a hundred miles. Have a 1MOA Weathersby 300 Mag and a tricked out 270 Win and a bunch of mainly lesser toys.

I also have a lot to learn about optics, and need some better scopes for the distances I hope to be shooting eventually. Using Sightron and Vortex presently.

Mostly all easy shooting so far on the 500, no bad wind problems, hardly any mirage at all, perhaps not far enough.

Thanks for any suggestions!

So why the 338, especially if you only have access to 500 yards?

As others have said, shooting a big magnum (IE: Not a short action mag) is a completely different game than cartridges like 6.5CM. Yes, there might be an issue with the rifle, but absolutely don't discount the fact that the groups might be a result of you and not the rifle. Poor fundamentals (especially if shooting from a bench), a new flinch from blast and recoil, etc can all be contributing factors.
 
That's a good question for a rational person! I just gravitate towards bigger guns, plus aspire to be able to shoot 1000 plus fairly reliably. On my bucket list is shooting the White Buffalo at Whittington in Baton Rouge, NM, at about 1135 yards. Bit of a long story on that little dream.

Shux, if I could afford it and its ammo, and had a place to shoot it, I'd try to get a Boys Anti-Tank gun.

Think I picked up a Walter Mitty "Henry" complex from reading Unintended Consequences by John Ross a couple of times. But Henry started early in life, I started late. There's no catching up.

I don't mind the blast, and so far haven't had much with the 338, but have only run around 50 rounds. It's got a huge brake on it that seems to mitigate the recoil. My 300 Weatherby Magnum has no brake, and shooting 15-20 rounds with it makes a sore shoulder.

My poor results thus far might well be me and not the rifle.......I'm not used to the caliber, regardless of the brake and easy recoil. Most all of the time that I have problems with any of my shooting or my reloads.......it is I to blame. And the other times, it probably is I, too, ha ha.

If I ever get fully retired, I hope to find some private land within distance to shoot a thousand or so on at an affordable rate......
 
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That's a good question for a rational person! I just gravitate towards bigger guns, plus aspire to be able to shoot 1000 plus fairly reliably. On my bucket list is shooting the White Buffalo at Whittington in Baton Rouge, NM, at about 1135 yards. Bit of a long story on that little dream.

Your 6.5 is more than capable of doing all of that, just with less energy than the 338.
 
Yep, and it would probably be a bit more challenging - and sporting - to just stay with the 6.5.

In my childhood, I was a pyromaniac, won a ribbon in 7th grade for making a flame thrower out of hospital throw-aways. Buying Estes rockets and blowing up the neighborhood. Making my own pyrotechnics. Then in the Army I taught Flame Field Expedients and ran a gas chamber, using M4 bursters, jellied gasoline, and det cord to try to catch Wisconsin on fire. And we did! Bring on the firetrucks!!! Now I've settled down and just like shooting and try not to dabble in the fireworks beyond that.

But I still like the Big Bang.
 
Try some double Ear pro and see if it helps you . I run electronic and ear plugs when I shoot my 338NM just for that extra blast and eliminate any flinch .

Not sure on the scope you are using ?

Front bags are good but I'm not so sure about free recoiling a 338lap is going give good results ,
 
I don't have an RPR, but my 338lm savage recoil is fairly tame.
IMG_20200307_081546.jpg
 
HALLELUJAH !

Since I started this post a couple of weeks ago, I received lots of good suggestions to improve things......

(A quick refresh: I have a new 338 Lapua RPR and was afraid I had gotten a lemon, couldn't get any good MOA out of it.)

I was told to get a solid mount rather than the somewhat funky mounts I had, bought a fairly nice Leupold single mount and torqued it on. Sure enough, while installing the new mount, saw evidence on the scope that it had been "traveling" in the old mounts.

I was told to get bipods, bought a pair that attach individually to either side of the handguard and bolted them on. Fell in love with them today, they worked great and now I don't have to lug my bullsbag and heavy rubber risers anymore. (Will be doing this same thing for my 6.5 Creedmoor, now).

I told myself to get some of my own reloads featuring ballistic tips instead of tiny hollow points, I loaded them up. And I used 285 gr ELD Match instead of 250 gr, as some of you recommended. Hornadys.

A good cleaning was suggested, so I did that. And while underway (reading the manual) it occurred to me to lighten the trigger pull since I saw instructions for same in the manual. Did that too.

So today went out to test the improvements, and EUREKA ! Shot a 1/2 MOA at 200 and a 1/3 MOA at 500!!!! OK, that tells you there were some less respectable groups, but they were better that my previous best with this rifle. Happy, happy, happy. Too much money had it been a dud gun.

Still gotta work on my technique, I'm an old coot and it's hard to remember everything at once, and I don't get to shoot often enough for muscle memory and all to set in. But I'll keep trying. Technique, and my dream scope, and I'll be good to go. Meanwhile my present Vortex is making me happy indeed!

Thanks big time to all of you guys that sent me suggestions!!!!
 
rugers are known to be way over torqued at the barrel nut from the factory. Disassemble. Clean. Relube and reassemble the proper way. My guess it will shoot better. What bullet you shooting?
rugers are known to be way over torqued at the barrel nut from the factory. Disassemble. Clean. Relube and reassemble the proper way. My guess it will shoot better. What bullet you shooting?
This is interesting. I learn something new every single thread. That’s why I love this forum.
 
Agree. I think the 285’s are the sweet spot. 300’s aren’t that great.
250s @3,000 rule...285s are great if you reload to higher velocity....A 338LM cartridge based on 300 grain bullets is lethargic and has ruined this caliber....I stick with 250s and deal with the wind effects.

Fatso bullets suck

Speed kills
 
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Ok, I might be, I hope I am premature posting this thread.

Have a new RPR 338 Lapua Mag. Was so totally enthralled with my RPR 6.5 Creedmore, I began salivating as soon as I saw Ruger had made this guy.

Am just getting going with it. Started off with some Lapua Match ammo, then a box of Prime Match when I ran out and borrowed one day. Just now getting my supplies in to do my own loads, the way I like it. But doubt my loads are going to beat Lapua's by much if at all.

Hitting between 1-2 MOA or worse.

A VERY experienced shooter next to me told me to get a single piece mount for my vortex.......he in fact found early on I had it mounted poorly, and he bore-sighted it for me, oh to be so versed! So I am thinking to buy a Sphur single mount, $400 plus, but it's tops, and I can use if for other rifles if it doesn't cure this one.

A pricier scope is going to have to wait a while on my budget.The scope I'm getting by with has done sub-moa on my 6.5 CM.

My biggest worry is I've gotten a 2 MOA rifle.

Like, I said, it's early yet, until I get that single mount and make some of my own loads..........

But any comments, hopes or voodoo spells you can offer will be greatly appreciated. This puppy set me back big time! Not like an Accuracy International or a Surgeon, but then I'm not in that class!!!
338 LM can be a bitch...was for me. Thought my 2nd AI (A 338LM AXMC) was a freaking lemon. Now I shoot it better than other lesser calibers....

Double up on the ear protection....very important. The blast, especially through a brake, is pretty significant.

REALLY focus on fundamentals....press, break and freeze is very important as the recoil impulse is stronger and lasts longer (I think).