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New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

Wannashootit

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Sep 3, 2010
    2,133
    481
    FL
    No replies to my post for info on the T/C Venture, so I'll try another way.

    The T/C Venture has a 24", 5R rifled match-grade barrel and crown, adjustable trigger that's supposed to be pretty decent.
    Guaranteed MOA accuracy, and from online reports it delivers.

    At under $500, why should I spend hundreds more for a Remington or Savage? What will I not get from the T/C that I will from another manufacturer? Play devil's advocate for me...
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    Customization...
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    Pretty much nailed it right there. If you want what T/C gives you then fine. If you want to make it yours it's not so easy.

    Nice rifle though.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    A friend bought the TC ICON in 7-08 and we couldn't get it to shoot well with allot of load testing.The very best group was at 1 MOA or so.

    I wasn't very impressed with it overall.

    Sorry there's no easy solution.It's a gamble what you'll get with any "standard" stock rifle.It could shoot great or like crap or anywhere in between.

    Find a used M700 and have a High quality barrel put on it,decent stock and hire a gunsmith of good reputation.

    I sold a bunch of guns and other stuff I had laying around collecting dust for years and did what I said.

    <span style="font-size: 23pt">SO GLAD I DID !!!</span>




     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    Sounds like a great rifle out of the box... but once you pull it out of the box and want more... there is no more to be done. With a Savage and even more with a Remington you can make an amazing rifle. I couldn't help you on finding a smith that knows what to do with those rifles. If you want any smith to do work or improve your 1 moa accuracy to half that you might want to go with a gun a smith can doctor up for you and create a beast.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pinkMiST aG</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Customization... </div></div>

    Like aftermarket stocks?
    I wondered about that as well, but if it shoots MOA outta the box, is there a reason I would want an H-S, etc...?

    Just tryin' to get a handle on where it makes sense to spend money in this hobby (which is easy to do) and where it doesn't.
    I thought aftermarket stocks were primarily to improve the accuracy of a rifle that doesn't shoot well due to a crappy stock. If it shoots well with the factory stock, what reason is there to be concerned about availablity of aftermarket?

    I realize that sometimes we spend money to "customize" for it's own sake- meaning spending $$ that does nothing to improve the accuracy of the rifle. But isn't it all ultimately about whether the bullet hits where I'm aiming? For the sake of this discussion, let's assume MOA is accurate enough for this shooter.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wannashootit</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pinkMiST aG</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Customization... </div></div>

    Like aftermarket stocks?
    I wondered about that as well, but if it shoots MOA outta the box, is there a reason I would want an H-S, etc...?

    Just tryin' to get a handle on where it makes sense to spend money in this hobby (which is easy to do) and where it doesn't.
    I thought aftermarket stocks were primarily to improve the accuracy of a rifle that doesn't shoot well due to a crappy stock. If it shoots well with the factory stock, what reason is there to be concerned about availablity of aftermarket?

    I realize that sometimes we spend money to "customize" for it's own sake- meaning spending $$ that does nothing to improve the accuracy of the rifle. But isn't it all ultimately about whether the bullet hits where I'm aiming? </div></div>

    Okay I'm not bashing you but almost every gun that comes from a factory now days is 1 MOA or is supposed to be. If you're fine with 1 MOA and don't want to spend money on your rifle be my guest. Almost any person on these forums want's to make a rifle that can shoot sub .5 moa or better. This isn't only at 100 yards which is not hard to do with my more less stock Rem PSS but taking it out to 600 yards and staying .5 MOA.... That's a whole different story. Buy it and be happy. If you're going to argue with us then go buy it and make us wrong that's fine with us. Everyone here has had great experiences with different rifles and we all have our opinions. From what I've seen is you are set on this rifle. Go buy it and see what happens. If it shoots .3 MOA... tell us and we will all jump on the ship. There is a reason people spend a thousand dollars on actions... the accuracy factor.

    Also when a factory says 1 MOA out of the box... They don't mean farther than 100 yds...
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    only option is rebarreling, if you are ok with that it is a great starter rifle. would i use it for a match rifle not likely, but it will get you in the game and will always be a good hunting rifle.

    do it!!!
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    Hey wannashootit, Your 20 minutes from me. Where are you planning on shooting this gun at?

    Most ranges around this area are only 100 yards, but I always take the one hour drive to the 1000yd range, which is a short drive considering how far most people on this site travel to get to a 1000yd range. If you ever plan on shooting past 100yds you will really notice the difference in a Savage or Remington over most guns. I know a lot of guys that shoot a lot of things, but the Savages and Remingtons are the best I've seen with Savage having a slight edge.

    Your looking for advice and I think at this point the best thing you can do is listen to the guys here that really know what they're talking about. Your going to get bored with the gun at one point and want to do something to it. Don't find yourself kicking your own ass wishing you had gone a different route. Also, you can find a Savage for under $600 that you won't need to worry about being a good performing gun.

    If you want some help with anything or want a few good places to find a gun at a good price just PM me and I'll help you out. I just saw a long action Savage the other day brand new for $270, guess what my next build is haha
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    It sounds like you've already talked yourself into it. So go for it! I sincerely hope it shoots as well as you expect...

    But you might want to listen to Snipedogg... Just sayin'
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Snipedogg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey wannashootit, Your 20 minutes from me. Where are you planning on shooting this gun at?

    Most ranges around this area are only 100 yards, but I always take the one hour drive to the 1000yd range, which is a short drive considering how far most people on this site travel to get to a 1000yd range. If you ever plan on shooting past 100yds you will really notice the difference in a Savage or Remington over most guns. I know a lot of guys that shoot a lot of things, but the Savages and Remingtons are the best I've seen with Savage having a slight edge.

    Your looking for advice and I think at this point the best thing you can do is listen to the guys here that really know what they're talking about. Your going to get bored with the gun at one point and want to do something to it. Don't find yourself kicking your own ass wishing you had gone a different route. Also, you can find a Savage for under $600 that you won't need to worry about being a good performing gun.

    If you want some help with anything or want a few good places to find a gun at a good price just PM me and I'll help you out. I just saw a long action Savage the other day brand new for $270, guess what my next build is haha </div></div>


    Advice is what I asked for, and why I posted...
    I really don't see, even after re-reading my post, where I was "arguing". I was just askin...

    We're shooting at the Hernando Gun Club range. 200 yard max, and that's only open once a month.

    Perhaps I'm on the wrong forum altogether, and that could be- if so, I apologize. You can tell from my post count, and my initial posts, that I'm the first to admit I know jack shi* about the hobby which is why I'm trying to learn.

    I only asked why I should spend more for another make of rifle when the specs for the one I mentioned seemed pretty damn good for the $$. I bought a Rem 700 VTR for my son- and it's a nice shooter, no doubt. But I think sometimes there's a temptation to get caught up in "name brands" (as with any product) and was just seeking an objective opinion. T/C doesn't seem to be represented here, even though their Icon model was named the second most accurate rifle by F&S for '07-'08.

    http://www.fieldandstream.com/photos/gal...nd-2008?photo=1

    If this is a site where there's "name brand" snobbery of some sort, I'll be sure not to post again.

    Snipe, thanks for the info, and I understand your point. If there is a way to "modify" a rifle over time to be more accurate at longer distances as our skills improve, I'm all ears. Didn't know that could be done (without blowing a ton of money). I'll PM you for some more info...obviously, going from 100 yards to 1000 is way beyond my experience level- do they have intermediate distances?
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wannashootit</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Advice is what I asked for, and why I posted...
    I really don't see, even after re-reading my post, where I was "arguing". I was just askin...

    We're shooting at the Hernando Gun Club range. 200 yard max, and that's only open once a month.

    Perhaps I'm on the wrong forum altogether, and that could be- if so, I apologize. You can tell from my post count, and my initial posts, that I'm the first to admit I know jack shi* about the hobby which is why I'm trying to learn.

    I only asked why I should spend more for another make of rifle when the specs for the one I mentioned seemed pretty damn good for the $$. I bought a Rem 700 VTR for my son- and it's a nice shooter, no doubt. But I think sometimes there's a temptation to get caught up in "name brands" (as with any product) and was just seeking an objective opinion. T/C doesn't seem to be represented here, even though their Icon model was named the second most accurate rifle by F&S for '07-'08.

    http://www.fieldandstream.com/photos/gal...nd-2008?photo=1

    If this is a site where there's "name brand" snobbery of some sort, I'll be sure not to post again.

    Snipe, thanks for the info, and I understand your point. If there is a way to "modify" a rifle over time to be more accurate at longer distances as our skills improve, I'm all ears. Didn't know that could be done (without blowing a ton of money). I'll PM you for some more info...obviously, going from 100 yards to 1000 is way beyond my experience level- do they have intermediate distances? </div></div>

    Some people here just feel like the way that you've responded means that you're pretty set on the rifle. So they just feel like it's a waste of time to reply or say much if you've already made up your mind. Maybe you haven't made up your mind, and I really don't care either way, but some people just feel like you're wasting their time, and no point if asking if you already decided.

    Others are telling you like it is, that a 1 MOA rifle at 100 yards, isn't always a 1 MOA rifle at even 500. Part of which rifle you buy will depend on what you want to do with the rifle, and if you want to change it up or not. Most of the shooters on this forum and who shoot LR seriously or often, end up with at least a partial custom rifle, and parts changed out. The actions with the most aftermarket choices are the Reminton 700's, or the "clone" actions. The Savages are a good compromise and design though, and there are getting to be more and more parts for them. They also leave the option to basically change the barrel yourself. Lots of guys here also run matches, and with that you'll have parts break sometimes, and you want them to be readily available or easy to stock for cases like that.

    If the rifle shoots the way they say it does, and you like the rifle the way it is, and plan on leaving it the way that it is, go for it. Like others have said, after you start shooting LR, you may decide that your needs are a little different, or that you want to change a few things (maybe not full custom). What happens if you don't like the trigger, and aren't worried about pull weight, but can't get it adjusted where you like the pretravel, overtravel, etc? What happens if you want a trigger less than 3.5#'s? Do you know of anyone that makes an aftermarket trigger that fits the action? What happens when you work a load up too hot, blow a primer and screw up the trigger? Well, you'll probably have to send it off to T/C to fix or them send you a replacement. What happens if the extractor or ejector screw up, are they interchangeable with other designs, or do you have to wait for that as well? What happens if you decide the barrel is too light or shoot one out eventually? Well obviously you want to have it replaced, but do you know a smith who can do it and do it properly? Even if you know of a smith who can do it properly, you may want the action blueprinted. So can they blueprint it, and is it more expensive and more dedicated than Rem. or Savage? Remington's and Savage actions are much more common in terms of having some smith work done to them. Even if you know a smith who could do the work on the T/C, what's his waiting list? Since there's not as many smiths that do the work, maybe it's a year. Can you wait that long to have a new barrel put on there? What happens if you decide that you want more rounds in the DBM than 3? Well, it's not like you can go buy some Badger or other DBM system that is going to fit the action. What about quality scope rings to fit the tactical scope you want to mount on it? Does someone make some bases that will fit the top of the action, and also fit the diameter of the scope tube, and be high quality rings?

    Stocks aren't that big of a deal most of the time nowadays. If you are buying a high end stock, they will inlet it for whatever action you like. If they don't have the specs for the action, you can get them for them and they'll inlet it for it. You still can't just go to a website and buy on in stock. That means you'll have to wait to have the stock made and inletted. Basically what everybody is telling you is this; "If you plan on leaving the rifle EXACTLY how it is, and it shoots, go for it." If you plan on, or ever have the desire to change anything or much on the rifle, you're going to be SEVERLY hindered in options, availability, etc. It's not that the Remington and Savage are "more accurate", accuracy only takes you so far in the tactical game. You'll notice that the guys here aren't shooting Bench Rifles, and most aren't using Bench Rifle actions, even if they're from the same makers, they usually have different tolerances. In tactical rifles, customizing rifles, and LR shooting, you can to consider the possibility for changing parts or replacing parts on them. The question then becomes about how widespread are parts and options for this action? Most of us don't shoot stock much of anything. So what do you want to do with this rifle, and in the future, are you maybe going to change some stuff on it? If the answer is yes, then something that is "brand specific" and only comes from T/C could be a real pain in the @$$.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    Looks like tomcat touched up on it for you wannashootit, I didn't say any of that to offend you, merely to try and let you know there are other options and ones that will most likely be better for you. Your post says "tell my why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle", so I did
    laugh.gif
    But to answer your question, yes. The range in Manatee has everything from 100 to 1000yds with 100yd increments so it's perfect for testing loads then trying your hand at a little distance too. Hopefully you will make the right decision for yourself and at the end of the day it's all about enjoying your gun and how it shoots. This game is addictive and you might not plan on customizing right now, but trust me, once you get out to the range and see all the cool shit you'll be working overtime for some custom stuff. PM me if you have any questions
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wannashootit</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

    At under $500, why should I spend hundreds more for a Remington or Savage? What will I not get from the T/C that I will from another manufacturer? Play devil's advocate for me... </div></div>

    A Remington SPS tactical is just a couple hundred more roughly.

    What that couple hundred buys you is the OPTION and EASE of customization later on down the road.

    That couple hundred dollars saved now may cost you your frustration long after the feeling of "saving" has disappeared.

    I'd just get something more "standardized".
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    This is as good a place as any... would someone care to explain, in mathematical terms... how a 1MOA gun can suddenly turn into a 1.5MOA gun at 500m? Are these straight lines which make up a unit of measure for an angle somehow curved? The only answer I come up with is wind and I'm pretty sure that has equal effects on a $6000 hand built .308 as it does a $450 .308.


    What accuracy modifications can't you do to this gun that you can do to a 700? Aside from stock... You can still have the action trued can't you? New barrel? Adjusted chamber specs? Headspace? Correct me if I'm wrong here, but you should be able to have any competent smith do most of the things that produce an accurate gun. Sure, stocks are limited and you're likely stuck with the trigger it comes with... But it sounds like a lot of people here are saying, you buy something other than a 700, 70 or savage and it will have to remain as delivered from the factory for life. I would argue there's a decent amount you could do with just about any bolt gun- if that's really the route you want to go.

    I plan on getting an Icon myself as a hunting rig. When I want a sub .5moa bolt gun, I'll have GAP build me one on a better action than a factory 700.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    Okay lets ask this first before other stuff starts up. Are you interested in LR or hunting/goofing around... answer that and we will go off from there.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    A good point I haven't seen mentioned here yet is resale. At some point we all get tired of what gun we have, outgrow it, or start eyeballing something else that we have got to have. It would be easier to sell a rifle that more people are interested in, ie the savage or remington....and you'll easily get your money back on either one of those.
    The TC is not a bad rifle by any means, just depends on the use you have in mind. I have no doubt that the action can be trued on it, but finding a smith to do it may be a slightly different story. Most of the smiths in my area won't touch anything unless its a rem700 or a custom action...which most customs are based off of the 700.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    Tomcat,
    THANK YOU!
    That's exactly the type of reply I was looking for. No, I'm not set on the rifle- that's why I asked why I "shouldn't" buy it.

    Availability of parts, customer service, trigger issues, etc. That's all valuable information and I sincerely thank you for taking the time you did to respond.

    I know I have to walk before I run, or even jog...
    My thinking was that I've got to become proficient at 100, then 200 yards, before going further.

    So, I guess the basic question for me boils down to this...
    I thought I was going to be limited to 200 yards by the facility available to me. That's why my thinking was, why buy a rifle (and spend the big $$) that's capable of much longer distances if I can only shoot 200? That's why I said MOA was good enough; Snipe has opened my eyes to another possibility of expanding that with another facility. Great news, and that changes my thinking...

    Now what...

    1) Buy an "entry" level rifle- either the T/C, Rem, etc. that fits the bill fine at 100-200 yards to get experience. Buy another, more capable rifle when experience dictates.

    2)Bite the bullet and buy the "end game" from the git-go. A rifle capable of serious accuracy at extended ranges, 600, 800 or more...

    I guess I can't go wrong with option #2?

    DP, good points. The question is, how much can you "mod" a lower-end rifle before it's at it's limit and it doesn't make sense financially anyway. Now, I'm not loaded, but not scraping a few hundred bucks to buy a rifle, either.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DP425</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This is as good a place as any... would someone care to explain, in mathematical terms... how a 1MOA gun can suddenly turn into a 1.5MOA gun at 500m? Are these straight lines which make up a unit of measure for an angle somehow curved? The only answer I come up with is wind and I'm pretty sure that has equal effects on a $6000 hand built .308 as it does a $450 .308.</div></div>

    A 1 MOA rifle, all things being equal should correspond to roughly 1" group at 100 yards, 2" group at 200 yards, 3" group at 300 yards, etc. However, all things are NEVER equal. Field conditions, shooter, ballistics, etc are never "equal" so a 1MOA capable gun will not necessarily be 1MOA at any given distance. A $6000 gun will have "characteristics" that a $450 gun may not have.


    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DP425</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What accuracy modifications can't you do to this gun that you can do to a 700? Aside from stock... You can still have the action trued can't you? New barrel? Adjusted chamber specs? Headspace? Correct me if I'm wrong here, but you should be able to have any competent smith do most of the things that produce an accurate gun. Sure, stocks are limited and you're likely stuck with the trigger it comes with... But it sounds like a lot of people here are saying, you buy something other than a 700, 70 or savage and it will have to remain as delivered from the factory for life. I would argue there's a decent amount you could do with just about any bolt gun- if that's really the route you want to go. </div></div>

    It's not that things can't be done but the OPTIONS are a lot more plentiful when you go with a more "standardized" and/or familiar platform VS one that may need more modification to it's already scarce parts selection and support.


    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DP425</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I plan on getting an Icon myself as a hunting rig. When I want a sub .5moa bolt gun, I'll have GAP build me one on a better action than a factory 700. </div></div>

    Now you're comparing a custom GAP built 700 clone action to a factory 700? Two VERY different things there.

    All this aside, the OP can buy what he wants it doesn't matter. Everyone here is just giving opinions on the subject but in the end it's up to the OP. I wish him luck with whatever he may decide to buy.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wannashootit</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Tomcat,
    THANK YOU!
    That's exactly the type of reply I was looking for. No, I'm not set on the rifle- that's why I asked why I "shouldn't" buy it.

    Availability of parts, customer service, trigger issues, etc. That's all valuable information and I sincerely thank you for taking the time you did to respond.

    I know I have to walk before I run, or even jog...
    My thinking was that I've got to become proficient at 100, then 200 yards, before going further.

    So, I guess the basic question for me boils down to this...
    I thought I was going to be limited to 200 yards by the facility available to me. That's why my thinking was, why buy a rifle (and spend the big $$) that's capable of much longer distances if I can only shoot 200? That's why I said MOA was good enough; Snipe has opened my eyes to another possibility of expanding that with another facility. Great news, and that changes my thinking...

    Now what...

    1) Buy an "entry" level rifle- either the T/C, Rem, etc. that fits the bill fine at 100-200 yards to get experience. Buy another, more capable rifle when experience dictates.

    2)Bite the bullet and buy the "end game" from the git-go. A rifle capable of serious accuracy at extended ranges, 600, 800 or more...

    I guess I can't go wrong with option #2?

    DP, good points. The question is, how much can you "mod" a lower-end rifle before it's at it's limit and it doesn't make sense financially anyway. Now, I'm not loaded, but not scraping a few hundred bucks to buy a rifle, either. </div></div>


    I look at firearms much the way I look at vehicles- if you have one that has some sort of personal value to you and want to have work done on it- and you want to keep it... then do it. But if you're shopping new, buy what you want, not something you could turn into what you want later. Just like cars, a rifle is only as good as what it's built on. Sure, a mustang can be built to perform pretty well, but after you drop $34,000 on a new GT, dropping another $3000 on wheels and tires, $6000 on supercharger, $4500 on suspension and $2000 for the various odds and ends you're sure to need... Well, you just spent $50,000... That puts you $4000 short from a GT500, or moving over to a real twisty-track machine, $2000 OVER what a new vette would cost.

    I don't see the point buying a brand new 700 to drop $3000 on having it totally re-worked... when in the long run, it's still the relatively twisty base-line, factory 700 action. Money is much better spent on the real deal in the first place (templar, surgeon).

    Of course, there's nothing wrong with buying used.... and selling used.

    Here's another way to look at it- do you hunt? Do you want to carry a 12+lb rifle while hunting? If not, buy your nice hunting rifle right now- when you're out-shooting the gun, get your long-range stick built. In the mean time, you can make a gun-fund with regular deposits.

    That's just my point of view. And I imagine finding someone to work on an Icon may not be as hard as everyone is assuming; but no body knows until someone actually inquires.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    If you plan on shooting farther distances go with something you can upgrade. If you are planning on shooting long ranges there is no "cheap" way of shooting very accurately at longer distances. Don't get me wrong you can still have an accurate rifle for less than $1,000. The factor is how accurate do you want to be. Are you going to use this for comps or just fun? hunting? answer that and we can narrow it down. You can upgrade cheap rifles, but how much.... well that will have to be your homework and figure out. If you can find a smith that can true your rifle and what you would like then you can get the cheap one. It all depends on what you plan to use this rifle for explain what you want to do. You stated before you would be shooting 100-200 yds with your cheap gun you would be more than happy. If you plan to extend your range or join comps then I'd suggest a Rem. (little fyi if you buy a remington action you could resell just the action for minimum $300)
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    To Wannashootit -

    From what you say you're looking for in your first bolt gun, I still stand by my suggestion of a Rem 700 with a 24 or 26 inch barrel.

    Get the rifle, buy a decent scope and get out and shoot. The remington will get you into the "game" for a fair price and you can evaluate your position on the longer ranges AFTER you've had a good amount of trigger time behind it. By then you should have a very good idea of what you really "need". Walk before you run.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pupdawg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">To Wannashootit -

    From what you say you're looking for in your first bolt gun, I still stand by my suggestion of a Rem 700 with a 24 or 26 inch barrel.

    Get the rifle, buy a decent scope and get out and shoot. The remington will get you into the "game" for a fair price and you can evaluate your position on the longer ranges AFTER you've had a good amount of trigger time behind it. By then you should have a very good idea of what you really "need". Walk before you run. </div></div>

    +1
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pupdawg</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DP425</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This is as good a place as any... would someone care to explain, in mathematical terms... how a 1MOA gun can suddenly turn into a 1.5MOA gun at 500m? Are these straight lines which make up a unit of measure for an angle somehow curved? The only answer I come up with is wind and I'm pretty sure that has equal effects on a $6000 hand built .308 as it does a $450 .308.</div></div>

    A 1 MOA rifle, all things being equal should correspond to roughly 1" group at 100 yards, 2" group at 200 yards, 3" group at 300 yards, etc. However, all things are NEVER equal. Field conditions, shooter, ballistics, etc are never "equal" so a 1MOA capable gun will not necessarily be 1MOA at any given distance. A $6000 gun will have "characteristics" that a $450 gun may not have.


    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DP425</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What accuracy modifications can't you do to this gun that you can do to a 700? Aside from stock... You can still have the action trued can't you? New barrel? Adjusted chamber specs? Headspace? Correct me if I'm wrong here, but you should be able to have any competent smith do most of the things that produce an accurate gun. Sure, stocks are limited and you're likely stuck with the trigger it comes with... But it sounds like a lot of people here are saying, you buy something other than a 700, 70 or savage and it will have to remain as delivered from the factory for life. I would argue there's a decent amount you could do with just about any bolt gun- if that's really the route you want to go. </div></div>

    It's not that things can't be done but the OPTIONS are a lot more plentiful when you go with a more "standardized" and/or familiar platform VS one that may need more modification to it's already scarce parts selection and support.


    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DP425</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I plan on getting an Icon myself as a hunting rig. When I want a sub .5moa bolt gun, I'll have GAP build me one on a better action than a factory 700. </div></div>

    Now you're comparing a custom GAP built 700 clone action to a factory 700? Two VERY different things there.

    All this aside, the OP can buy what he wants it doesn't matter. Everyone here is just giving opinions on the subject but in the end it's up to the OP. I wish him luck with whatever he may decide to buy. </div></div>

    I'll work from the bottom up-
    I'm aware that the comparison on the GAP and factory 700 are very different- that was the point; akin to the posting I made above this one. If you want a real performer, build it with a solid base. Building a factory action IMO is about the least intelligent thing you can do. Of course some people have monetary constraints that force them into cheaper options, even when it's a relatively small amount.

    Mods-
    No argument there; my issue is with people making it sound as if it is an attempt at the impossible. I'm willing to bet that it's much easier than many would imagine. Does that mean it's as easy as having your 700 BDL re-worked? No... but that doesn't mean someone should make it sound as if you're stuck with what you get.

    MOA-
    " Field conditions, shooter, ballistics, etc are never "equal" so a 1MOA capable gun will not necessarily be 1MOA at any given distance. A $6000 gun will have "characteristics" that a $450 gun may not have."

    I agree... field conditions, shooter, ballistics of ammunition used are only "equal" in a controlled environment. But what you're missing here is there's no such thing as a change in MOA at distance as a result of the firearm itself- it is ALWAYS a result of external influences. For someone to state that "rifle X will shoot MOA at 100, but it won't at 500" is uneducated at best, misleading and/or deceptive at worst. A pattern does not change upon it's own accord once it's path has been started- it must have external influences to account for a change. Barring external influence on the projectile, once those bullets leave the barrel, the influence the gun has departed on it has terminated, hence a 1 MOA group will maintain a 1 MOA group throughout the flight path of those bullets.

    I agree, there are different characteristics of guns in different price ranges- but the ability to defy the laws of physics is not one of them. The ability of a shooter to maintain moa from 100 to 1000m isn't a testament to the rifle, it's a testament to the shooter.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    DP425-

    I agree. I guess the "MOA" thing to me is, well, a standard generalization of the rifles capability as you have said also. However, some might automatically assume that a "MOA guaranteed" rifle will be just that at any distance and I must say that this logic is very wrong.

    I guess I took it literally when you asked how a 1MOA rifle can turn into a 1.5MOA rifle at 500 yards. My bad on that... to clarify, like you said it IS all shooter.

    I personally hope the OP does get the remington or savage that he has been looking at. I assume that he is looking at staying within a certain budget and if he isn't then the recommendations will change greatly. With my personal experiences, not many shooters have ever regretted the purchase of a Remington 700 which is why I highly recommend it.

    Otherwise if money isn't an issue, just buy a TRG22 or an AI AW/AE for a factory gun or call GAP, LPR, KMW and get a custom stick.
    wink.gif
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pupdawg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">DP425-

    I agree. I guess the "MOA" thing to me is, well, a standard generalization of the rifles capability as you have said also. However, some might automatically assume that a "MOA guaranteed" rifle will be just that at any distance and I must say that this logic is very wrong.

    I guess I took it literally when you asked how a 1MOA rifle can turn into a 1.5MOA rifle at 500 yards. My bad on that... to clarify, like you said it IS all shooter.
    </div></div>

    I see- and I assumed you were making the often made argument that a rifle will somehow only be capable of MOA at a given distance. Or that a particular gun can only shoot MOA at X yards and progressively opens up in terms of MOA beyond that.

    I think to go even further, the MOA guarantee isn't that YOU can shoot MOA with it- but that it WILL shoot MOA. There have GOT to be people out there who've bought 1MOA guaranteed guns, been unable to shoot better than 2MOA on ANY gun and claimed it's the guns fault.

    Well anyway, back to your regularly scheduled programing!

    In the long run OP, you need to consider what you will do with it before you decide on anything. I stated I intend to get an Icon for hunting- IMO, it is designed for hunting; not long range target work. The fact that they have ONE long range/non-hunting design but a hand-full of hunting design is pretty indicative of what the intent was behind the gun. I'm a fan of buying the tool for the job. If hunting is a primary concern, buy a hunting rifle. If bench work, short to moderate range is the task at hand, buy an economical target gun (700P for example). If long range is the primary purpose, then fork it over for a purpose built gun. These three categories seem to best fit the possible uses we've seen on the table for you. I personally wouldn't recommend more then one step up or down. In other words, if long range is what you want, don't try to take your 18lb fully-outfitted .338 whitetail hunting. Also don't expect to take your 7.5lb wood stocked deer rifle for a day of 1000m shooting. If you want a "do-it-all" rifle, one of the more classic design (as in simplistic) factory tactical's in .308 would be best. I think you see where I'm going with this, what I personally feel can pull what additional roles.


    Edit:
    Thought I should add- I don't feel a "factory" action is the correct platform to BUILD a gun on. Everything in me says if you're going to build something, don't skimp on your foundation- could a factory 700P action make for a good shooting 1000m gun once the build is done? Sure- but for just a LITTLE extra you could have a purpose made action which is sure to perform better. If you're going to the extent to build it, you might as well do it right.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DP425</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
    pupdawg said:
    DP425-

    Edit:
    Thought I should add- I don't feel a "factory" action is the correct platform to BUILD a gun on. Everything in me says if you're going to build something, don't skimp on your foundation- could a factory 700P action make for a good shooting 1000m gun once the build is done? Sure- but for just a LITTLE extra you could have a purpose made action which is sure to perform better. If you're going to the extent to build it, you might as well do it right. </div></div>

    I get what your saying, maybe we should contact GAP, and every other custom rifle builder that builds guns off the 700 actions as well as the custom action builders that do the same and let them know this.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Snipedogg</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DP425</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
    pupdawg said:
    DP425-

    Edit:
    Thought I should add- I don't feel a "factory" action is the correct platform to BUILD a gun on. Everything in me says if you're going to build something, don't skimp on your foundation- could a factory 700P action make for a good shooting 1000m gun once the build is done? Sure- but for just a LITTLE extra you could have a purpose made action which is sure to perform better. If you're going to the extent to build it, you might as well do it right. </div></div>

    I get what your saying, maybe we should contact GAP, and every other custom rifle builder that builds guns off the 700 actions as well as the custom action builders that do the same and let them know this. </div></div>


    If that's your attempt at being a smart-ass, it wasn't very good- since GAP's main line currently consists of only 3 rem 700 actions as standard out of 7, and of those three, two can be upgraded for $400 to the Templar action. So, lets go back to my annalogy- would you rather spend $50,000 for a worked over mustang GT or $48,000 for a vette which will outperform your $50,000 GT? Instead of taking a $600 resale value gun, sending it off to GAP and having them build on that action, in the long run adding up to more than you'd have paid to just have them build the same gun on a templar action to begin with.

    Just because they will build guns on a 700 does not mean it's the ideal, certainly not the best action to build on- that is apparent in the fact that out of 7 standard models offered, 6 are either factory spec'ed as non-Rem700 or can be optioned as non rem700.

    I'm not sure how anyone can actually argue a point counter to this. Even if you don't already have a rifle and you're having them build you a Gladius ($3850)... aren't you into the price range where a more rigid, better designed action for an extra $400 or $600 (Surgeon 591) is worth it? We're talking about a 10-15% price increase over base for an action MUCH better.

    Alas, there will always be professional speed shops willing to build you a new mustang for road racing or a new honda for the drag strip... Why? Because people will buy it. Does it mean it's a good choice? No. Does it mean it makes economical sense? No. Does it mean just because the end product could be better built on something else that its absolute crap? No. Does it have the same potential as the better option? No.

    It means they are running a good business, giving the customer what they want with the best possible results given their desires. If you want a $4000 shooter built on an inferior, mass produced, technologically stagnant for the last 50 years action... and aren't willing to pony up an extra $400-$600, then by all means, be my guest. IMO, once you get to that sort of price range, major components shouldn't be shared with an off the shelf $600 hunting rifle.

    But hey, maybe I'm the one that's crazy?
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    DP and others,

    Thanks again for the comments and advice. Lots of good info. It's particularly interesting, as a novice, to take in everyone's opinion (ya know what they say- everyone has one!) and there's certainly some strong ones here! It's all good- obviously fueled by a passion for the sport.

    I've always agreed with the "right tool for the job" philosophy. Based on what you guys have written, I'm thinking...

    1)Up until now, my sons and I have only been target shooting...but, we want to expand that to hunting some wild hogs at the WMA where the range is located when our accuracy skills are sufficient. With the exception of my younger son's AK, we're small caliber with .223 which is marginal if we were to run into a sizeable one, so carrying a .308 is part of the plan.

    2) Sounds to me, a rifle capable of both hunting and long range accuracy would be a compromise (weight vs. accuracy?). Since we don't plan on being "serious" hunters- but DO plan on being serious "shooters", why compromise? Might be best to buy a "lower-end", but capable .308 for the purpose mentioned above- and when we've reached a point when we can shoot MOA at 200 yards consistently, look into buying/building a long-range rifle.

    Sound like a plan?
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    My philosohpy on this is "Spend the money once".

    The TC looks like a decent Hunting Rifle. Maybe even an above par Hunting Rifle. 1 MOA is good Hunting Rifle accuracy. But when you're sitting behind a bench or prone and shooting at targets 1 MOA is just not all that fulfilling. There's nothing more satisfying than shooting a 1-hole 5 shot group!

    Now back to "Spend the money once"... You can buy a Savage for just a little more that will definitely shoot better. You can buy a Remington for probably around $800 (used) that will also definitely shoot better. Either choice will keep you happy for quite a while. I just think you'll want to sell the TC (for a huge loss) to get a Savage or Remington shortly after getting it.

    I also think sending an inexpensive rifle to a Gunsmith for rather expensive upgrades is moving backward. The rifle will depreciate at the same rate regardless of what you do to it. Especially if it's a relative "no-name" rifle to begin with.

    I frequent the gun auction sites as well as local gun shows and can't tell you how many times I've seen re-barreled, accurized or otherwise improved inexpensive "newer" or rebuilt "older" (ie: Mauser action) rifles that someone spent thousands on, selling for a couple-hundred bucks... if that. New Barrel, New Stock, New Trigger, Trued, Lapped, guaranteed by the owner to shoot tiny groups... Only worth $200 to anyone else. Unless the work was done by someone well known and can be proven.

    I don't know man... It doesn't seem that TC is really going to keep you happy for long. Just my $0.02...FWIW
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    I'm not arguing that a custom action isn't better. You were trying to say that the ONLY way to build a good gun is off a custom action and sorry but that just isn't true. If you have the money, of course build one that's a full custom with custom action. But for a lot of people especially in the economy we are in just can't afford to do that and with all the quality guns I've seen built off the 700 action and I'm seeing more and more built on the Savage target action, I am inclined to disagree with you when you say it isn't the right way to build a gun. We can agree to disagree on this one but 95% of the guys on this forum have a custom gun built on a factory action and I believe they will disagree with you as well.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: oneshot onekill</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My philosohpy on this is "Spend the money once".

    The TC looks like a decent Hunting Rifle. Maybe even an above par Hunting Rifle. 1 MOA is good Hunting Rifle accuracy. But when you're sitting behind a bench or prone and shooting at targets 1 MOA is just not all that fulfilling. There's nothing more satisfying than shooting a 1-hole 5 shot group!

    Now back to "Spend the money once"... You can buy a Savage for just a little more that will definitely shoot better. You can buy a Remington for probably around $800 (used) that will also definitely shoot better. Either choice will keep you happy for quite a while. I just think you'll want to sell the TC (for a huge loss) to get a Savage or Remington shortly after getting it.

    I also think sending an inexpensive rifle to a Gunsmith for rather expensive upgrades is moving backward. The rifle will depreciate at the same rate regardless of what you do to it. Especially if it's a relative "no-name" rifle to begin with.

    I frequent the gun auction sites as well as local gun shows and can't tell you how many times I've seen re-barreled, accurized or otherwise improved inexpensive "newer" or rebuilt "older" (ie: Mauser action) rifles that someone spent thousands on, selling for a couple-hundred bucks... if that. New Barrel, New Stock, New Trigger, Trued, Lapped, guaranteed by the owner to shoot tiny groups... Only worth $200 to anyone else. Unless the work was done by someone well known and can be proven.

    I don't know man... It doesn't seem that TC is really going to keep you happy for long. Just my $0.02...FWIW </div></div>

    Point is well taken.

    Who knows...we may end up getting "bit" by the hunting bug as well; won't know until we get into it. But, it's certainly a possibility that I should consider. I know "name brand" and "resale value" with my other hobby (boats), but jack about guns.

    In that light, I agree that it makes sense to go with the Rem or Savage, for a few bucks more getting a rifle that could be upgraded "easier", and in the event we outgrow it entirely, easier to resell based on what you guys are telling me (?).

    So...if I purchase another Rem. 700 that begs a question (maybe I should post this in another thread?...

    Last night my wife read about the Remington lawsuits due to the alleged slamfires/misfires due the the trigger assembly. Front page of MSN on the internet...

    She about freaked out, because as I mentioned, just purchased a Rem 700 VTR for our son. She made me promise to replace the trigger...scared to death...

    I explained that out of the hundreds of thousands (if not millions) of Rem 700's out there these are isolated incidents, and besides, if proper safety precautions are observed, it's highly unlikely injury could result from a misfire. She ain't buying it...

    Is this an issue I should be concerned about if I go to purchase a new 700 .308?
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: steve123</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A friend bought the TC ICON in 7-08 and we couldn't get it to shoot well with allot of load testing.The very best group was at 1 MOA or so.

    I wasn't very impressed with it overall.

    Sorry there's no easy solution.It's a gamble what you'll get with any "standard" stock rifle.It could shoot great or like crap or anywhere in between.



    Find a used M700 and have a High quality barrel put on it,decent stock and hire a gunsmith of good reputation.

    I sold a bunch of guns and other stuff I had laying around collecting dust for years and did what I said.

    <span style="font-size: 23pt">SO GLAD I DID !!!</span> </div></div>

    I forgot to mention that buying a full custom M700 based action benchrest rifle ruined me for life.As the years went buy I've had 3 custom actioned bolt guns " with different custom actions"made for me and 1 custom AR upper.All of them are amazingly accurate "except the one I burned the barrel out on recently"
    wink.gif


    I can look back and think how I would have done things differently though to save money.

    I would have started out with a high ballistic coefficient 7mm/.284 cal,probably 284Win,and built a medium weight tactical style rifle with DBM.It would have served basically the same purpose as 2 of the custom rifles I have now and also saved me from having to buy 2 scopes.I figure the money saved would have been about $4500.

    So what I'm saying is to think to the future not just the present.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    Honestly, that's entirely up to you. Personally, I've owned Remington Rifles for over 30yrs. and never had a problem. I haven't seen it but from what I understand the report fails to address the lack of following the basics of firearm safety... like you already mentioned. But generally, if you're smart, the Wife has the last word.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: oneshot onekill</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> But generally, if you're smart, the Wife has the last word. </div></div>

    Ain't that the truth...
    My son's been drooling for a Timney, anyway...
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    There's a big thread about the trigger problems with Remington and all of the deaths and injuries would have been prevented if the people had operated their guns safely. i.e. not point a loaded gun at somebody or something you don't plan to shoot. Safety on or off, it's common sense. Replacing the trigger will help but as long your son knows how to handle his guns you have nothing to worry about
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    Wannashootit,

    IMHO I think you will do yourself a big favor by surfing the pages of this forum, a ton of valuable info on this board.

    With that said I can give you my perspective. I have owned several Savages and 700s. For the money a Savage is hard to beat, they hold value and they shoot out the box. Like others have said you can with a small investment in tool change your barrel yourself. I have changed the barrels on some Savages the results were beyond my expiations.

    Dmar1942 has a factory heavy barrel (low round count) off a Savage that we put on a Stevens action, it sits in a B/C stock. At 600 yards he was shooting 4”-7” balloons no problem (that was with factory Hornady match ammo).

    I have a 700 ADL in a 243 it shoots good ¾ MOA but not as good as the Savages that I have had ( I also do not shoot it as much). I also have a GAP built 700 and it shoots lights out. I bought it used on this board for a good price. You can not compare the two but a 700 action in the hands of the right person will shoot better then most people can.

    The 700 will have more choices of triggers, stocks and smiths that can work on them.

    The Savage with a little research you can do all the smith work yourself.

    The T/C I don’t know anything about it so no comment.

    So I guess the best way to say it is with a 700 or a Savage like everyone has said you have to ability to grow the rifle more easily. As your skill level grows you will have a platform to keep up with you.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    I like the Remy 700 SPS for about $600. They even come with an adjustable trigger, and mine shot about .65 MOA out of the box. I'm still working on it, but that's kinda the fun part about having a Remy - lots of readily available parts and upgrades.

    my 2 cents - good luck!
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wannashootit</div><div class="ubbcode-body">DP and others,
    1)Up until now, my sons and I have only been target shooting...but, we want to expand that to hunting some wild hogs at the WMA where the range is located when our accuracy skills are sufficient. With the exception of my younger son's AK, we're small caliber with .223 which is marginal if we were to run into a sizeable one, so carrying a .308 is part of the plan.</div></div>
    I think carrying a .308 for hog hunting is a pretty good idea- I'm confident in the abilities of the correct bullet in .223, but there can often be a considerable amount of fat in a hog, and I wouldn't want to have to make a quick shot, miss vitals and have a hog charging me.

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wannashootit</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
    2) Sounds to me, a rifle capable of both hunting and long range accuracy would be a compromise (weight vs. accuracy?). Since we don't plan on being "serious" hunters- but DO plan on being serious "shooters", why compromise? Might be best to buy a "lower-end", but capable .308 for the purpose mentioned above- and when we've reached a point when we can shoot MOA at 200 yards consistently, look into buying/building a long-range rifle.
    </div></div>
    Generally, yes it it a compromise. Some guys will carry a 13+lb rifle hunting. It's not un-doable; I mean hell as a sniper, my primary weapon is in that weight range and I'm packing a hell of a lot more stuff. But keeping the situation in mind, most would argue that a full-on long range/tactical rig isn't best suited breaking brush and tracking game. There are exceptions to this of course- off the top of my head would be the Remington 700P LTR; a lighter weight "tactical' rifle. I believe it runs a 20" fluted barrel, as i recall the stock is a bit smaller too. But now we're getting into the $1100 price range for a gun that, should you want to do a lot of 1000m shooting, just won't perform as well as other options out there. I think you're on the right track looking for a good lower priced gun geared toward hunting that can serve double duty at the range, then once you've gotten your feet throughly wet looking at a more serious LR rig. And if you're still into hunting, keep the other gun for your hunting trips- leave the LR gun for targets or some sort of hunting trip out west with stationary hunting spots on long range shots.

    I've never personally been a big fan of "one size fit's all"- sure, it might work a little bit for everything, but it will generally do nothing exceedingly well
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    This sniper group is all about creating (or buying) a custom sniper rifle. There are tons of good hunting rifles out there. I like the Tikkas. Take a look at Howa rifles, they have some cool tactical stocks.

    But if you are going to do it the "snipers hide" way I suggest you get a Rem 700 SPS in heavy varmint. There are two barrel lenghts 20" and 26". Take your pick. Put a tactical scope on it. Then get a tactical stock. A magazine. Then a trigger. Bolt knob. Then a new barrel. What you have left of your original Rem 700 is just the action and even the bolt knob on it has been changed.

    After you have done all that, you are ready for a custom rifle. Hoo boy. Plop down the dough for a custom Surgeon rifle in 260 remington. Now you have TWO sniper rifles. And so forth.

    That is the "Sniper tactical rifle" way.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    So curiosity killed the cat... Contacted GAP about having an Icon worked on. Here's what I got in reply:

    <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-family: 'System'">We can install a new match grade barrel and I believe we are able to blueprint the action and tighten the tolerances a bit. We might be able to bed the action in the factory stock, but I would have to know how yours is set up before I can know for sure.

    Bartlein 5r match stainless barrel $315
    Barrel installation an blueprinting $350
    Bedding varies with the type of stock
    Cerakote finish on the metal $265</span></span>
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    That above post is only for informative purposes. Not to imply it's THE route to go. Just that it really isn't hard to find a good smith to work the gun over. And I won't lie, I am very curious what sort of results you'd get from the above mentioned work. I'm not against having work done on a rifle I intend to keep, but I'd have to pick up an Icon for awfully cheap to shell out the $930 for the sake of curiosity. If I stumble on a good deal and enjoy the rifle, I might run this experiment... However, at this time its unlikely.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    I have a T/C Icon in .300 Win. Mag. that has an advertised guaranteed MOA or less accuracy out of the box.
    Tried it with factory Winchester ammo loaded with 180 grain Ballistic Silver Tip bullets & the results were more like a shotgun pattern than a rifle group.
    It has been residing in my gun safe & I haven't shot it much since or developed a load for it yet but the internal box magazine (non-removable on the magnum version of the T/C Icon) is made of el cheapo crappy thin plastic instead of steel & broke apart & fell out after only a few shots.
    I'm definitely not impressed so far but the jury is still out.
    Once hunting season is over & the freezer filled I will play some more with my T/C Icon.
     
    Re: New shooter:Tell me why I SHOULDN'T buy this rifle

    These guys know what they are talking about in terms of rifles, and I heard a few of them say "only spend your money once". So take their advice, but at the same time don't. Remember a lot of them have gone through the remington 700's, probably some of their first guns or custom builds where built off them, and that's not a bad place to start because the possibility of upgrading is there if you decide to continue shooting it. And at the end of the day, some of the nicest rifles (Tac Ops) are all built off a rem 700, and those guns are nothing to flinch at. But here's the point, maybe your T/C will be limited to upgrades, the remington 700 won't, but if you do get the rem and upgrade it, and then want another rifle, there is nothing wrong with giving this one to one of your kids and starting a second custom build, maybe then going with a full custom like surgeon action, kreiger barrel and mcmillan stock. because at that point you'll know exactly what you want from your rifle, but right now you don't. So try it out and see what happens, rem 700's are a great place to start if you aren't sure yet.