Rifle Scopes New to long range shooting need some help with mounts and rings

[slythy]

I just purchased a Howa KRG bravo 1500 in 6.5 creedmoor with a 24" barrel. The scope I just purchased from LibertyOptics is a Vortex Viper PST Gen2 5-25x50 EBR-7C mrad.

I plan to learn to shoot out to 1000 yards and know this will take some time. I dont know if I should get a 20mao base or 0. Also with rings what are a good set? does it matter if they are a single ring or the 2 individuals?

Any help would be awesome.

Thanks,

 

[Krob95]

20 Moa base will be perfect. A lot of folks like the seekins rings as they’re not overly expensive and they do the job very well.

 

[wpeach1912]

Usually can't go wrong with a 20 MOA base. I have the Seekins/Vortex PMR rings on my Razor, and they seem high quality. Would recommend getting a quality base like Nightforce for it too.

 

[HMRamateur]

Buy rings or mount with a level built into them, get 2 birds stoned at once. MDT elite, Steiner T series, nightforce

 

[LRRPF52]

I highly recommend a 20 MOA base because it will keep the optical elements closer to the center of the lens stack and light pathway when the erector moves the inner tube for elevation adjustment. 24” 6.5CM doesn’t normally have issues with bottoming out the erector, but it’s better to be closer to the optical true path.

Make sure the scope base and action are degreased completely before installing, and use at least Red Loc-tite 272 when attaching the scope base to the action. I personally form an “o”ring on the base with LT-272, after scuffing the surface up for better adhesion between the bottom of the base and the top of the action. You don’t ever want the base to come loose. I use acetone to degrease the base and action before securing the base. Make sure to get the fastener threaded channels cleaned out as well. They like to accumulate oil from the factory.

You can use EGW or NightForce 20 MOA bases. NF is aluminum. Make sure you have a torque wrench when torquing the fasteners down and know how to compensate for setting them in with Loc-Tite. I do bases with LT-272, and rings with Blue LT-242.

Depending on what direction you go, you can do both single piece or individual rings. Most do individual rings on bolt actions. A Spuhr mount will run you a lot more than most rings.

Seekins, NightForce, and Warne make quality rings. I would steer you to Seekins, then NF.

Most Pro PRS shooters use Spuhr or MPA single-piece mounts, but that’s at a top-tier National competitive level.

Be sure not to over-torque your ring fasteners. That’s where the torque wrench comes in.

I use the Wheeler FAT Wrench for all my inch-pound torque wrench needs.

I don’t trust most of the guys that LGSs call “gunsmiths” to get any of this right, because there are lot of people playing gunsmith that aren’t really well-trained or smart. When you do find a competent gunsmith, they are worth their weigh in gold. All of them will convince you they have the keys to success in an initial conversation. Once you see their work, then you’ll know what you’re actually dealing with if you know what to look for.

Best to learn how to do a basic rifle set-up yourself since it isn’t that difficult if you have the right tools and a brain.

 

[Jayhawkhuntclub]

Yes a 20 moa base is almost a must have. As for rings, I've had success at a mile with $50 Burris rings. But other nice/spendier options abound.

 

[slythy]

I highly recommend a 20 MOA base because it will keep the optical elements closer to the center of the lens stack and light pathway when the erector moves the inner tube for elevation adjustment. 24” 6.5CM doesn’t normally have ....

awesome thanks so much for the info! As far as torque wrenches go I have CDI and snapon’s that I bought for my motor build for my car so I should be set in the tool department.

Does Talley make decent scope bases? They have one with a level in it for canting. If not I will go with a seekins or nightforce.
Thanks!

 

[LRRPF52]

I don’t have personal experience with the Talley 1913 20 MOA rail with integral bubble level, but at worst, you’ll still have a quality rail.

The main thing with bubble levels is whether or not you can see them readily with your head in-position on the gun. This will depend on your ring height, scope, and your own anatomy.

I seem to remember someone’s comments on the Talley with bubble, but can’t find them right now. I would order it over the EGW just to see if it works. If not, you can still mount a bubble level somewhere else.

 

[slythy]

Ok just purchased the talley anti-cant scope base and then the Vortex Pro Viper Cantilever scope mount.

 

[slothlacrosse]

I thought we stopped talking about anti-cant bases in January! Scope level to rifle

 

[slythy]

I thought we stopped talking about anti-cant bases in January! Scope level to rifle

i just joined! It wasnt that expensive and I like the idea of everything being level! Worst case it doesnt do anything helpful best case is it helps make better shots. I mainly bought it just to level the scope not while shooting.

 

[LRRPF52]

i just joined! It wasnt that expensive and I like the idea of everything being level! Worst case it doesnt do anything helpful best case is it helps make better shots. I mainly bought it just to level the scope not while shooting.

You still use a scope level to make sure the reticle is plumb when shooting, so it’s important to have a level especially past 600yds. If your position changes the cant of the rifle shot-to-shot, you will have windage and elevation changes for Point of Impact (POI) at longer distances.

That thread was talking about people using multiple levels trying to level a scope when mounting it.

 

[WY_Chas]

I'm using ARC rings with a Viper PST on my M1A. works just fine.

 

[Big_Kumar]

Unless my reading comprehension is worse than I think it is, I am seeing that you plan on using a Vortex Cantilever mount on a bolt gun? While it is possible to make that setup work, you may want to look at a mount without any offset. The extra couple of inches forward may cause issues with getting a proper eye relief.

 

[slythy]

You arent reading it wrong. If it doesnt work out or fit right i can always return it. I figured since it was a votex viper product that it would match up well.

 

[Zuul]

awesome thanks so much for the info! As far as torque wrenches go I have CDI and snapon’s that I bought for my motor build for my car so I should be set in the tool department.

Does Talley make decent scope bases? They have one with a level in it for canting. If not I will go with a seekins or nightforce.
Thanks!

Just remember that you want a wrench with inch/lbs not ft/lbs when mounting optics.

 

[Daleteam6]

Depends on how much you want to spend. There are a lot of good brands out there, personally I looked at spuhr, badger ordnance, and warne. Ended up going with spuhr, that being said they’re expensive as fuck so if you don’t want to break the bank badger ordnance and warne are solid options imo

 

[Holliday]

Bed your base with JB Weld(regular not kwik version)...Use 243 BLUE on base screws. Acetone first.

 

[Jayhawkhuntclub]

Again, all you need is a 20 moa base and $50 burris, or Vortex, rings. You certainly can spend more. And if money is no issue...why not. But if you're getting started, I'd put my money elsewhere. You need a base and rings that are solid and provide the proper cant and nothing else. I'd rather have low price/quality rings and several extra hundred dollars for ammo/bullets/power...etc. YMMV.

 

[Jayhawkhuntclub]

Zuul has some valuable advice about ft/lbs vs in/lbs!
Also agree on the blue loctite. If you don't have acetone, get some non-chlorinated brake cleaner. I've never found the need to bed the base, but wouldn't hurt if you're planning on keeping it on permanently.

 

[Holliday]

I was a never-bed base guy until I started noticing gaps and my base flexing to fill those gaps on my rem 700. If you have a custom action, one would hope the top would be milld flat. (Judas priest Remington)

There are lost of videos on youtube going over the procedure but this is the one I use:

 

[Holliday]

If you don't have acetone, get some non-chlorinated brake cleaner.

Hey what is the deal with Chlorinated brake cleaner vs non- chlorinated (aside from the obvious)?

 

[slythy]

Yea I understand the difference between lb/in and lb/feet. I have enough torque wrench range to do 3 lb/in to 450 lb feet.

What release do you guys use for bedding in the base? I have a ton of car waxes and I might have some access to some carbon mold release...

Non chlorinated is a product of california thinking they know best. Its just as toxic but cleans worse IMO.

 

[Geaux tigers]

I own all the brand that are suggested my go to ring is the Burris signature rings you can set your Cant to what ever degree you want with the inserts and when you sale your scope no ring marks

 

[Holliday]

What release do you guys use for bedding in the base? I have a ton of car waxes and I might have some access to some carbon mold release...

I use regular shoe wax.

 

[slythy]

Im getting a little nervous about the vortex cantaliever mount I purchased. Should I just get regular scope rings? So what height am i looking for? I dont have the scope mounted and wont until after christmas so I cant verify the OD of the front but assuming its 50mm does that mean that I need a mount that is atleast ~.984" oh centerline height? so a 1" scope ring would be what im looking for?

 

[Zuul]

I’d personally go with rings, save the cantilever for when you decide to put an optic on an AR. I’m betting you can get away with using low rings with the 50mm Viper.

 

[DaChank]

MDT premium rings arnt too expensive at $100

 

[Slevin182]

Either base will get it done, that scope has more than enough elevation. Rings, loctite, torque wrench. And level it, of course.