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Gunsmithing Nitride Barrel Treatment - what do you know

Re: Nitride Barrel Treatment - what do you know

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Brandon05_88</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm not saying nitride itself will mess them up. The prep and company doing it is everything. I'm fairly positive H&M treated my barrel with my RAD brake installed. The instructions listed that the brake was shipped on the muzzle to protect it. They also listed to not treat the bolt that indexes the brake.
photo3.jpg

You can see not all of the threads were treated. The black area on the threads was where the cut in the brake was indexed to. Note the brake cross bolt is treated until the very end of the threads. It was installed. Note the condition of the brake threads. The threads in the upper left is the bolt handle threads of the bolt. They should have all looked like the bolt handle. I could have lived with them treating the brake bolt, no biggie. However, the brake would thread on a few turns then hit a wall. No go. Before melonite this brake, a thread protector and TBAC 30P-1 thread over the muzzle just fine.

They didn't follow my instructions. Either a corner was cut, they were in a hurry and/or the person doing them was inexperienced.

Fast forward to today. The cocking piece breaking. The bolt had 27 rounds of live fire and about 150 rounds of dry fire on it after melonite. I'm not a heat treat specialist, but how could this break? It must be brittle. How could it get this brittle? Was H&M in a hurry to process my lot of parts? Was the temperature not monitored correctly? Was the prep not consistent with other parts?

Sort of makes you wonder about the action doesn't it?</div></div>

I am now the owner of this rifle (the barreled action anyway). I've dry fired it probably close to 100-150 times while adjusting a new Jewel trigger and cycled the bolt as many times or more. I've put 20rounds thru the rifle verifying Brandon's load data and getting some additional chrono info for the load. The rifle shoots excellent. It shows that it's fully capable of .25moa like most all custom rifles should be. The rifle has functioned perfectly thus far.

I also have a 7wsm on a 591 action that was Melonite treated by MMI. I can without a doubt say that it is the most accurate and consitant shooting rifle I've ever had the pleasure of owning. Im not crediting the melonite treatment for the accuracy, this was clearly the work of the smith (RWS). I'm just saying the Melonite certainly didnt hinder it. Everyone knows how the 7wsm is a known barrel burner so im keeping detailed shot records to see how long this barrel holds.

All of my future build will be melonite treated. For the same price of Cerakote, why not? Even if the added barrel life is only minimal, it's still a benefit.
 
Re: Nitride Barrel Treatment - what do you know

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ddavis</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've had a whole rifle done by H&M and am very pleased with the results. So far nothing has shattered. Please let us know what they are able to do for you.
-Dan</div></div>

i have done 8 now at H&M... only problem i had was making the mistake of doing it to a chrome lined M4 bbl... bad idea....
 
Re: Nitride Barrel Treatment - what do you know

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: turbo54</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Now that I've cleaned up 4 melonited barrels, I've got the technique down pretty well. Here's what I've come up with:

Supplies:

Cleaning rod that allows the shaft to spin and follow the rifling
nylon brush for your caliber
spear-tip jag for your caliber
patches for your caliber
Soapy water
Iosso bore paste

First, you need to get the heavy stuff out. Get a cup of hot, soapy water, dip your nylon brush into the cup, and stroke 5-10 times (both ways is fine, you're not going to hurt a damn thing). Rinse the brush in your cup, and keep stroking. Do this routine 5-10 times altogether, dipping/rinsing your brush every 5-10 strokes.

Dry patch the bore

Install your jag, dope up a patch with some Iosso paste, put your muzzle up against the wall (makes it easy to reverse the jag/patch in the bore, because the jag doesn't come out the end of the muzzle), and "lap" the bore with a couple strokes. Pull the jag/patch out, dip it in clean water, and "lap" the bore with a few more strokes. HINT: Your Iosso'd patch will turn brown very quickly.

Dump the foul soap/water solution, and prepare a new, clean one. Reinstall your nylon brush and go back through the stroke/rinse routine you did previously.

Dry patch

Repeat the jag/patch/Iosso routine

Repeat the nylon brush/soapy water routine
</div></div>

my howto clean...
https://sites.google.com/site/freeballisticcalculator/black-nitride-melonite-and-qpq

Bobby Keigans from Freedom Gunworks.
Post-processing - It is important to thoroughly clean your barrel again before you resume shooting. I suggest using a mild abrasive such as Flitz, Iosso, or JB Bore Paste on a tight fitted patch. Lap the bore and scrub out the chamber good. Don't expect your old load to shoot the same. My experiences have shown me that a new load development will be in order.


what i do...

It took me about 45 min per barrel.


Start by running a WET patch in the bore when u get it back...
let it soak for 5 min


"I wouldn't use a good brush it might get trashed" wet the brush push this down the bore this will be stiff as hell for the 1st 5 pass's
you will need to do at least 30 stokes, after the 1st 10, it should have you normal resistance


Run some more wet patchs, they will look like mud when that come out


If you have JB bore paste, this is when you break that out for 20 strokes.. if no JB, us can use flitz or other polish on a patch


Now some more wet patchs to clean that out, they should be black but should feel as smooth or smoother then when you sent the gun in.


Now the chamber.. either use a chamber brush, or over sized brush, IE: 45acp brush for a 308 or 10mm brush for a 223 chamber.
shrub the hell out of it, personnelly i chuck the rod in a cordless drill and buzz it for a few seconds..


Wipe out the chamber and you are done.