Nice report. How is the recoil with the .50 in your opinion and how are your groups with the .50 as well? Is the recoil from the .375 significantly less? Seems like an amazingly accurate platform.
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The .50 is pretty punishing. I percieve an increase in recoil but a decrease in concussion vs. the M82. Its like someone punching you in the shoulder and then throwing dirt in your face vs. someone shoving you in the shoulder and throwing dirt in your face. It usually shoots 1-1.5 moa at 100yds as will the M82 with AE xm33. The dta has held that for me out to 1234yds, whereas the M82 is more like 2-3 moa with the same ammo, even with DA's above 10,000 ft.
The .375ct on the other hand is a dream to shoot. Very minimal recoil, minimal concussion, and no dirt kicking. I posted a full review of initial impressions in the ELR section and I'll try to update it when I get to shoot some more.
We don't carry Spuhr mounts, but we have ample supply of DTA mounts on hand.
The 1.5" height offered by the DTA, with 40moa slope, will clear the ATACR, Premier, S&B, and other 5-25x56 scopes just perfectly.
The 1.5" height offered by the DTA, with 40moa slope, will clear the ATACR, Premier, S&B, and other 5-25x56 scopes just perfectly.
Thanks for the demonstration Danny! 
Here's the mount Whit:
http://www.primalrights.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_77&product_id=117
Here's the mount Whit:
http://www.primalrights.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_77&product_id=117
whoop whoop!!!!! picking mine up tomorrow!!!! I won't be able to sleep at all tonight!!! Pics very soon!
Get the DTA mount recommended by orkan and shown by Danny25. They wouldn't steer you wrong. Keep it pure DTA, I guaranty you'll be happier! Good luck and have fun.
Out to range this morning with my son and friends. Shooting our 2 DTA SRS A1s in 260 and 338LM. Fun in the mid 80's Arizona sun.
oh man... send some of that up would you? It was 5 this weekend. It's 12 right now, with wind chill feels like 0.
I could spare sending you 10-15 degrees today, but you know it's a global warming issue. I'd prefer to wait 3-4 months, when it's 120 and send you 40-50 degrees! We all have our crosses to bear.
Damn it, when did DTA put a level (anti cant) on there scope rings? I already bought the spuhr. I have a set of DTA rings and wasn't to thrilled about them. I wanted the built in anti cant so I didn't have to keep flipping it in and out the US Optics one I have.
Do u think a SAC barrel in my DTA is better that a DTA one
Should I buy DTA conversion or put my own together
Should I buy DTA conversion or put my own together
This has been covered a few times here, but basically the answer is this: DTA barrels are good to go and if they make a conversion that matches your requirements, then go for it. If however you want a cartridge conversion that DTA doesn't make, different barrel length, twist rate, profile, etc - SAC is a very good choice for 3rd party conversions. And SAC aren't the only ones in the game.
Great day today!! I picked up my baby!! Pics tonight if I get a chance!!
What are you looking for? We've got a TS Customs 6.5 Creedmoor conversion in stock. They shoot incredibly well.
26" fluted, threaded 5/8x24 w/ stealth thread protector and Cerakoted FDE to match DTA FDE chassis/skins.
Shoot me a PM or give a call anytime if you have any questions!
Do by the chance have that in 260?
Load Data from this weekend
So I finally post A picture of my 300 WM. Funny thing is it looks like everyone else's. Oh, well this one is mine.
The following may be drivel to some of you but, maybe it will help some one so bare with me.
Ran some of my rounds previously made up through the Chrono using my Chrony F1. I am very suspect of this device because the baseline ammo I used to set up with is labeled as 2960 fps and it went through the Chrony at 3042 on avg. The baseline ammo was Winchester 180 grn Power point from Wally World. The rifle is a 26" barrel 300 Win Mag with a Vortex Viper PST 6-24 X 50 FFP mounted in an AADmount 20 MOA mount. The rifle has the factory installed monopod and the Atlas bipod up front with spike feet. The suppressor is a Thunderbeast 30p-1 on a Delta P 5/8 x 24 to 3/4 x 24 adapter.
The powder used was IMR 4350
The cases were all once fired through this rifle Winchester
The Primers were Win Large Rifle Primers
All cases were neck sized only
OAL was set to 3.5" for all rounds.
Range distance was 214 yds.
The 200 grn Berger Hybrid target bullet results are as follows:
68 grns of powder produced an avg fps of 2850 and a 5 shot group size just outside 1"
69 grns of powder produced an avg fps of 2920 and a 5 shot group size just outside 1"
70 grns of powder produced an avg fps of 2954 and a 5 shot group size of 7/8"
The 210 grn Berger Hunting VLD bullet results are as follows:
68 grns of powder produced an avg fps of 2890 and a 5 shot group size just outside 1"
69 grns of powder produced an avg fps of 2940 and a 5 shot group size at 1"
70 grns of powder produced an avg fps of 2960 and a 5 shot group size of right at 3/4"
The Hornady 208 grn AMAX bullet results were as follows:
70 grns of powder produced an avg fps of 3020 and a 5 shot group size of right at 3/4"
The Hornady Amax and the Berger Hunting VLD are very similar in shape. The Amax is just a bit longer due to the plastic tip.
"That's all folks!"
So I finally post A picture of my 300 WM. Funny thing is it looks like everyone else's. Oh, well this one is mine.
The following may be drivel to some of you but, maybe it will help some one so bare with me.
Ran some of my rounds previously made up through the Chrono using my Chrony F1. I am very suspect of this device because the baseline ammo I used to set up with is labeled as 2960 fps and it went through the Chrony at 3042 on avg. The baseline ammo was Winchester 180 grn Power point from Wally World. The rifle is a 26" barrel 300 Win Mag with a Vortex Viper PST 6-24 X 50 FFP mounted in an AADmount 20 MOA mount. The rifle has the factory installed monopod and the Atlas bipod up front with spike feet. The suppressor is a Thunderbeast 30p-1 on a Delta P 5/8 x 24 to 3/4 x 24 adapter.
The powder used was IMR 4350
The cases were all once fired through this rifle Winchester
The Primers were Win Large Rifle Primers
All cases were neck sized only
OAL was set to 3.5" for all rounds.
Range distance was 214 yds.
The 200 grn Berger Hybrid target bullet results are as follows:
68 grns of powder produced an avg fps of 2850 and a 5 shot group size just outside 1"
69 grns of powder produced an avg fps of 2920 and a 5 shot group size just outside 1"
70 grns of powder produced an avg fps of 2954 and a 5 shot group size of 7/8"
The 210 grn Berger Hunting VLD bullet results are as follows:
68 grns of powder produced an avg fps of 2890 and a 5 shot group size just outside 1"
69 grns of powder produced an avg fps of 2940 and a 5 shot group size at 1"
70 grns of powder produced an avg fps of 2960 and a 5 shot group size of right at 3/4"
The Hornady 208 grn AMAX bullet results were as follows:
70 grns of powder produced an avg fps of 3020 and a 5 shot group size of right at 3/4"
The Hornady Amax and the Berger Hunting VLD are very similar in shape. The Amax is just a bit longer due to the plastic tip.
"That's all folks!"
Great looking rig Krazy. Enjoy.
Sorry, we do not have that in stock at the moment. We can easily get one to you however! Turn around time varies depending upon your desired configuration, but will be anywhere from 3-16 weeks.
I'm wanting to put a proof research barrel in 6.5X47 lapua in my DTA
If the 3rd party quality is good then ill do it if I can find some one that can
This is good advice.
Here's my HTI in .50BMG, which I got with a .mil discount JUST before the price increase! I can't tell you how it shoots, but the trigger BLEW ME AWAY when I first tried it. It's not just good for a bullpup, it's a good single stage trigger, period. I just got the barrel back today from Elite Iron, and they made the brake you see on it. Has an IR illuminator for clip on NV sights, and an LRA "light" bipod. I'm still waiting on the optics, and I need loading gear anyway. But I'm most of the way there I suppose, and as soon as I get the optics I'll be able to try it out --unless I get antsy and pull the SN-3 off the Grendel for a day of abuse.
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Here's a closeup of the brake. It goes on and off using a wrench, no Loctite, so swapping back and forth with the can won't be a problem, which also uses a wrench. Elite is working on the can at the moment, Cerakoted FDE to match the rifle, and with any luck I'll have it by Christmas. Elite may be the one making the can for existing brake as well, but I couldn't wait. It's still a ways out I understand, so for now, this as "QD" as it gets for the HTI.
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I'm very interested in your report of perceived recoil with the EI brake
+1
This was my impression exactly. the 50 is not something you wanna shoot all day. It's more of a git-r-dun-n-run-gun
As much love as I have for DTA, I didn't like my DTA HTI mount. The draw back was the spacer rings. I never felt like I had them spaced correctly, they didn't seem to fit snug, and I just didn't like the gaps. I sold it and bought a AADMount.
I think I would have loved it if it was a 30MM mount without using the spacers.
If you use the plastic reducers from Accuracy 1st that they sell for their levels, they can be bought separately and work great for 30mm scopes in the 34mm mounts. They are solid and won't scratch your scope tubes.
B2169 , Talk to Orkan above or one of the other sponsors on here , Not only can they get the rifle configuration you want but also have many custom caliber options that are not initially offered by DTA
Has anyone tried putting a AR50 or Jp style brake on a HTi? The factory brake seems small compared to other 50s
Give me a call at your convenience sir! I'd be happy to discuss the available options and help you find which one will best serve your needs.
Ordered the "original" muzzle brake from Dta based off of comments made by Dogtown regarding recoil. Have a gen2 and only complaint about the lack of padding is when I shoot 338lm.
Man what a difference. With the QD brake anything past 20 rounds started to get rough. Just finished shooting twice that with no complaints. Thanks for the heads up Dogtown!
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Man what a difference. With the QD brake anything past 20 rounds started to get rough. Just finished shooting twice that with no complaints. Thanks for the heads up Dogtown!
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
I have 2 DTA SRS A1s. One with soft case & one with the Pelican case. The soft case is lighter and has inside pouches for 6 mags, 1 extra bolt and 1 26" barrel pouch stitched inside. Pouches for torque wrench too. Great set up for 2 or more barrels. I wrap the 3rd barrel in a flannel pillow case. What's not to love?
I have had really good luck with the Thunderbeast brakes on other rifles. I went with the 338 LM two chamber brake for my 300 WM conversion. It works great. now that my can is here I will probably never use the brake again. Love the can.
My 3 TBAC suppressors arrived yesterday. Now just mount the BA brakes and should be good to go. Probably won't leave home without them once they're all set up! 2 30BAs & 1 338BA. When I shoot the latter on my 26" 260 barrel, it feels and sounds like I'm shooting a 22, but dead on at 900 yards.
I use a Sp-4802 with my PR 5-25X56 and it works great and gets it as low as possible.
Well everyone, finally got my crap together and have some cases to fit DTA SRS's and DTA coverts. These will fit up to a 28" barrel (mine has a Thunderbeast brake attached as well). I have the cases individually or in a combination of Hard case + soft case.
Here is the thread http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...ales/243759-dta-cases-sale-bisontactical.html
The Brown ones are on backorder with the manufacturer, but if you place a backorder, you can get the discounted rate on the combo (and still get to use my SH coupon code). Right now Black and OD Green aren't a problem.
If there is interest, I can also get the soft cases in Multi-Cam - just let me know
Here is the thread http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...ales/243759-dta-cases-sale-bisontactical.html
The Brown ones are on backorder with the manufacturer, but if you place a backorder, you can get the discounted rate on the combo (and still get to use my SH coupon code). Right now Black and OD Green aren't a problem.
If there is interest, I can also get the soft cases in Multi-Cam - just let me know
Anyone do a Hide discount on a complete SRS or covert package, or does DTA not allow that. Sorry if this has been covered.
Check with Orkan (Greg) @ Primal Rights - I think he may do a discount.
Shout-out to Greg, I received my SRS 6.5 CM yesterday and it was pristine. Range weekend planned for next week, cant wait to get it out there. Also thanks for the gift included in the box it was not expected but much appreciated.
Originally Posted by mikedinh987
Hey Everyone! Hope everyone is having a Merry Christmas. Loving my DTA Covert how ever running into some issues seeing if anyone ran into these. First off I was trying to take off the modular rails and I keep stripping allen screws and they are now stuck (only the modular screw the other ones work just fine) anyone else have that problem? Then while I was working on that I decided to take off the barrel to give me room to work with the rails. Well when I turned to put barrel back in it slid in okay and it seem okay then why I tried to lock it. The screw stayed place facing down. in the unlock position. So I ended up taking my gun apart and literately found nothing inside how ever the barrel wouldn't budge. With every screw out and the frame disassembled even the locking bolt was taken out nothing was holding barrel it seemed to be caught on something and I can't for the life of me figure it out. When I apply some force I'm able to remove the barrel and same goes for reassembling the barrel it requires force. What do I do I don't want to mail it back to DTA I have had it less than a month. Everything else seems to be in working condition. I don't know any help will be greatly appreciated thanks!
For the rail you are using metric allen wrenches right? If so make sure they are "sharp". They should not be stripped themselves.
I found the the above post before I posted this.......
Evening gents.
picked up a new SRSa1 Covert last night and was trying to figure out the method for sling attachment on the front hand-guard.
So, after reading here that it is under the rail , I tried to loosen the screws, using a metric wrench.
It is darned tight. Could Nick comment if they are just torqued down really tight ( any comment on how tight? I have a variable torque wrench) or if I need to apply heat to loosen loc-tite or some other thread locker? I don't want to strip anything.
Hey Everyone! Hope everyone is having a Merry Christmas. Loving my DTA Covert how ever running into some issues seeing if anyone ran into these. First off I was trying to take off the modular rails and I keep stripping allen screws and they are now stuck (only the modular screw the other ones work just fine) anyone else have that problem? Then while I was working on that I decided to take off the barrel to give me room to work with the rails. Well when I turned to put barrel back in it slid in okay and it seem okay then why I tried to lock it. The screw stayed place facing down. in the unlock position. So I ended up taking my gun apart and literately found nothing inside how ever the barrel wouldn't budge. With every screw out and the frame disassembled even the locking bolt was taken out nothing was holding barrel it seemed to be caught on something and I can't for the life of me figure it out. When I apply some force I'm able to remove the barrel and same goes for reassembling the barrel it requires force. What do I do I don't want to mail it back to DTA I have had it less than a month. Everything else seems to be in working condition. I don't know any help will be greatly appreciated thanks!
For the rail you are using metric allen wrenches right? If so make sure they are "sharp". They should not be stripped themselves.
I found the the above post before I posted this.......
Evening gents.
picked up a new SRSa1 Covert last night and was trying to figure out the method for sling attachment on the front hand-guard.
So, after reading here that it is under the rail , I tried to loosen the screws, using a metric wrench.
It is darned tight. Could Nick comment if they are just torqued down really tight ( any comment on how tight? I have a variable torque wrench) or if I need to apply heat to loosen loc-tite or some other thread locker? I don't want to strip anything.
I had the same problem with the modular rails. I'm pretty sure they are loctited down because I saw powdery residue on them after they were removed later, but since they are plastic I did not want to heat the screws. I tried to gorilla force them out and ended up stripping 2 of the 6 screws. I then had to use screw extractor bits to get them out. Needless to say the OEM screws are now pretty messed up. I think DTA should rethink its policy of loctiting these plastic modular rails.
Maybe the answer lies in a clamp item like this: https://troyind.com/products/qd360-mount
I agree 100%. No reason those screws should be as difficult to get out as they are. I'll bring this up next time I talk with our rep.
Ok gentlemen I'm glad to say I have a few questions. I'm the proud new owner of a SRS Gen 1 chassis with a .308 conversion kit. The rifle was actually for sell on here but was local to me and I had the great luck of acquiring it. I do have a question though. Do any of you remove the barrel for a complete cleaning of the barrel itself? The reason I ask is I worry about use of copper solvents and such in the aluminum chassis. There is such a long area from the butt of the rifle to the face of the chamber that I wander if you could ever make sure all the solvent is cleaned off from inserting the cleaning rod. Also I'll have to start working up a load for this rifle. The loads I had for my Tikka are producing 3/4 MOA groups at 100 yards but I know this setup is capable of better. These loads produced an average of .633" center to center for 5 3 shots groups in the Tikka, with the best group measuring .293" center to center. I know 3 shot groups don't cut the mustard around here but it was still pretty good. For this rifle I'm going to focusing on 178gr AMax over Varget powder, mainly because that's what I have on hand. I noticed that DTA loads their ammo for the .308 with 175gr at 2700fps, that's pretty stout.
I set up the rifle with Seekin's AR height rings, a Leupold LR/T 4.5x14x50, and a Atlas bipod.
I set up the rifle with Seekin's AR height rings, a Leupold LR/T 4.5x14x50, and a Atlas bipod.
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I haven't had enough copper build up in mine yet to run into this problem - but the barrels come out so easy, when I do need to clean them, I will do it with them out... I try to avoid heavy cleaning, and just clean the main crud out after shooting.
That's normally what I do as well. A simple pull through followed by a light oiling after each range visit was the norm with the Tikka until the accuracy started to fall off. The reason I ask is the original owner stated the barrel had roughly 700 rounds through it and the last owner put probably less than 100 rounds through it. That's a pretty low round count for .308 but I don't know what their cleaning regimens consisted of.
i emailed desert tech last monday and i'm calling tomorrow because i haven't got a response yet, but there is no adjustment screw in the front of the trigger for creep adjustment. i just thought i would post here to see if anyone knows if its a change in design or i have received a bad unit. to add to this, the safety is super light and floats around when its on fire and cocked, and when its uncocked. if you shake the rifle a little bit or walk around with it you can hear it moving around. the last thing is where the round sits in the chamber it's kinda chewed up on the right hand side. the black coating is scraped off where the head of the case seats. its a desert tech srs a1 in 308 with a 22" barrel. there is no one else around here that i know of that has one that i could look at for reference thank you for your help Last edited:
