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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

Can you take a few pictures of the catch? This is mine.
 

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Hey guys, posted a thread about it, but figure I’d ask here too. Looking to do a hunting only caliber for my Covert. Would like to do 24” even 22” barrel would be sweet! Either something with good factory ammo available or something easy to reload for. I hunt out west so our shots can approach 600 yards+ on a regular basis. Was thinking maybe
7lrm
28 Nosler
7 rem mag
300 win mag
7 wsm
7 SAUM

Anything else I should consider? And why?

Thanks guys

ETA: I’m in California so I have to use lead free ammo for my hunting which puts a bit of a restriction on bullet selection.

I've suggested it before, but; 338WSM is worth a look if you can be bothered. 160gr TTSX Barnes with RL15/Varget will rocket out of a 16inch barrel at over 3000fps. A longer than 16inch barrel is just gravy on top. They also make the all copper TTSX in 185gr and 225gr, and its a confirmed reliable killer.

A 338wm would be less efficient but still effective pushing such a light, but large diameter projectile.


160gr Will fly like a brick (G1 BC .342) and bleed 1000fps from a 3000fps start at 350 meters. But it'll still hold 1000ft/lbs to 500m.

If its a shorter range killer it'd be pretty interesting. Heavier bullets at slower speeds would perform better also.

Having said all that, 7RM is the easy button...
 
Any of you guys have thoughts on the 7lrm other than the fact that it has 1 source of brass? Anyone know if it feeds reliably?

I think Orkan did a write up on the 7 LRM a while ago and it fed perfectly. I seriously considered it as well but I went with a 30 cal only because I already have a 7 RM in a Rem 700.
 
I got tired of trying to feed single rounds on top of my mag and having them nose dive so I 3D printed a "bobsled". Rev 1 fit the gun a little tighter than I like but it works perfectly. I've only tried it with 308 and 22-250 but it should work for larger magnums. I'll put out the .STL once I finalize it for anyone who wants to print their own.

bkklfpNm.jpg

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View attachment 6873041

Does your buttplate latch protrude the same amount as shown here? Also take a look at the chassis/skins where the buttplate latches and see if it’s worn down or damaged.

My latches look good with no signs of wear , all attachment points look fine also . I can whack the pad firmly with the palm of my hand in any direction and it stays put . Only comes loose when fired and very random , not every round as a rule , but sometimes every round.
 
I asked this question before, but then it kind of got lost when two other members got into a p*ssing match with each other. So I'll try asking again. I have a LH DTA Covert that I bought slightly used in 300 WM. Just starting to get used to the rifle. The one problem I have is that the rifle is not ejecting a fired round when I open the bolt. To be clear, the bolt has no problem extracting the round from the chamber, but I have to rotate the rifle 90 degrees to get the spent round fall out. This happens regardless of whether I open the bolt slowly or quickly. Am I doing something wrong? Is there a quick fix?
 
I got tired of trying to feed single rounds on top of my mag and having them nose dive so I 3D printed a "bobsled". Rev 1 fit the gun a little tighter than I like but it works perfectly. I've only tried it with 308 and 22-250 but it should work for larger magnums. I'll put out the .STL once I finalize it for anyone who wants to print their own.

bkklfpNm.jpg

I’m not interested in the file, but I would be interested in sending you a .PPF&F of $XX for one. Necessity is the mother of all invention and I think you have a winner there. Start printing them up and put them up on the PX section.
 
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I asked this question before, but then it kind of got lost when two other members got into a p*ssing match with each other. So I'll try asking again. I have a LH DTA Covert that I bought slightly used in 300 WM. Just starting to get used to the rifle. The one problem I have is that the rifle is not ejecting a fired round when I open the bolt. To be clear, the bolt has no problem extracting the round from the chamber, but I have to rotate the rifle 90 degrees to get the spent round fall out. This happens regardless of whether I open the bolt slowly or quickly. Am I doing something wrong? Is there a quick fix?

I would take apart the bolt and make sure it’s all serviced. Orkan has a great write up and I think video on his website about hot to Service it and some great tips. It sounds like you may have a weak extractor.
 
No, there are Gen 1 Coverts out there.
Easiest way to tell the difference? I have googled differences and can’t find anything definitive in photos. I got my info from the picture below. It’s a post from the deserttech forum.

KZguOjn.jpg
 
Mine says Desert Technologies, rather than Desert Tactical Arms, so I assume it’s newer. It also appears to index a small groove against the feedramp from what I can tell on the barrel extension. I’ll assume it’s Gen 2.
 
The easy way to tell just by looking at it is the buttplate Isn’t cushioned. Here’s a pic of a Gen 1 extension.
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The easy way to tell just by looking at it is the buttplate Isn’t cushioned. Here’s a pic of a Gen 1 extension.

Thanks. I’ll check mine. My butt plate isn’t padded, which just may mean it’s not an A1 (I know it’s not).
 
Gen 1 chassis can use both Gen 1 barrels and Gen 2 barrels.

Gen 2 and A1 chassis can only use Gen 2 barrels.

If you look at the picture of the Gen 1 barrel above then go look at your Gen 2 & A1 feed ramp, you can see why the Gen 1 barrel extension won’t fit; too much metal where the pin would lock in.
 
If I’m not mistaken gen 1 chassis can use a gen 2 barrel as well. Got a picture of your chassis?

Zd1mq6Y.jpg


I thought Gen 1 and Gen 2 was more a reference to barrel extension type. The A1 is where the chassis, rail, and finishes had a revamp. I know I don’t have an A1.
 
You are correct. I think the reason they changed from the Gen 1 extension with the pin to line up the barrel was the concern that if you jammed the barrel in, the barrel extension could strike the pin and shear it off.
The Gen 2 extension was milled our more, and the feed ramp in the chassis was extended into the space where the pin was. So there is less metal on the Gen 2 chassis, which is why Gen 2 barrel extensions will fit into Gen 1 guns. However this doesn’t work the other way around.

They made some changes here and there to the Gen 2, like the Butt pad, I think they went through a name change, and at some point started milling the receiver to accept the monopod, without actually including the monopod, so it was sold separately as an option. Then they started to include the monopod at some point as standard equipment with every chassis.
When they came out with the A1, they went away from the quad picatinny rail handguard and added the adjustable cheekpiece (I think that was it though). Since the release of the A1 they went though a couple of revisions on how the handguard attaches the the chassis.
 
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Hey guys, posted a thread about it, but figure I’d ask here too. Looking to do a hunting only caliber for my Covert. Would like to do 24” even 22” barrel would be sweet! Either something with good factory ammo available or something easy to reload for. I hunt out west so our shots can approach 600 yards+ on a regular basis. Was thinking maybe
7lrm
28 Nosler
7 rem mag
300 win mag
7 wsm
7 SAUM

Anything else I should consider? And why?

Thanks guys

ETA: I’m in California so I have to use lead free ammo for my hunting which puts a bit of a restriction on bullet selection.


I'm stuck in CA too, LOL. Just for work.

I'd go with a 300 WM. Ammo is readily available and it feeds flawlessly. I run a 6.5 SAUM, if you modify a mag your good to go.

Screw the 28 Nosler, go Lazzeroni Warbird , it smokes the 28 and 30 Nosler. One day I will have Dane from #DMRrifles spin me up one for my DT.

Good luck hunting in CA I specifically leave the Communists deer and hogs along. Hunt outside of CA
 
I believe you have a gen 1 chassis with a gen 2 barrel.
So I can run anything marked Gen2 conversion... that’s all I need to know. Other reason is I’m trying to figure out if I can retrofit the new skins with the A1 stuff (buttplate, monopod, and cheek riser).
 
I’m so confused with trying to figure out what I have.

Open your bolt and take a picture of the feed ramp with the barrel in. Then flip the gun on its top and take a picture of the skins where the monopod should be. Also make sure that picture shows the bottom of the buttpad.
 
So I can run anything marked Gen2 conversion... that’s all I need to know. Other reason is I’m trying to figure out if I can retrofit the new skins with the A1 stuff (buttplate, monopod, and cheek riser).

Yes you can can gen 2 barrels. You’re already running one in whatever caliber you pictured a couple posts up.
 
Open your bolt and take a picture of the feed ramp with the barrel in. Then flip the gun on its top and take a picture of the skins where the monopod should be. Also make sure that picture shows the bottom of the buttpad.
oyjMzvY.jpg


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FA0zpqc.jpg
 
Looks like you have an early Gen 2.
If you get around to taking off the skins, you will be able to see if your chassis has been pre-tapped so you can screw the monopod right in.
If so, you have the option of buying the monopod from Desert Tech and installing it, but you have to modify your skins.
If not, and you want it the monopod, the chassis has to go back to Desert Tech to be milled for the monopod, and you will need to modify your skins or buy new skins.
 
Looks like you have an early Gen 2.
If you get around to taking off the skins, you will be able to see if your chassis has been pre-tapped so you can screw the monopod right in.
If so, you have the option of buying the monopod from Desert Tech and installing it, but you have to modify your skins.
If not, and you want it the monopod, the chassis has to go back to Desert Tech to be milled for the monopod, and you will need to modify your skins or buy new skins.

Sounds good. Sorry if I gave anyone an aneurism. I’m from SLC and travel back from Denver a few times per year. Wouldn’t mind dropping it off to DTA on trip and having the rear-end updated with the new skins and monopod if possible.
 
Zd1mq6Y.jpg


I thought Gen 1 and Gen 2 was more a reference to barrel extension type. The A1 is where the chassis, rail, and finishes had a revamp. I know I don’t have an A1.
What bag is this?
 
What are your thoughts on fluting the tennon on our barrels ? I've seen some pictures recently where a very well known shop is fluting barrels well into the tennon , almost to the barrel extension.

I need to loose some weight in a big way , seems like it may help vs standard fluting. I don't want to change the barrel, the one I have is ridiculously accurate. I need to loose about a lb to accommodate my suppressor and stay under 16 lbs all up. At this point I'm thinking of max fluting on the barrel, lighter scope and potentially cutting down my hand guard as I don't use most of it anyhow. Thoughts?
 
I like mine a lot for slow fire precision work . It will also be used for hunting so time will tell if I'm able to use it in field conditions that provide many different positions.
 
I wonder if DTA is going to make skins that will accept a grip like the MDR? That would give us different options with out a lot of cost. I. would even buy the new skins.