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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

Does anyone use their Desert Tech in PRS matches? The only real downside i can see is the magazines and shooting support side. I do really like how the rifle handles and balances for off hand shooting. And that you can run a 26-28" barrel with little downside. Tossing up between a used A1 or a new A2. I like that the A2 is MLock but people seem to prefer the A1 trigger? Plus i can get a complete A1 used for around the same price as an A2 chassis.

Cheers
If I could go back, I’d buy an A1 for the same price I payed for an A2.
 
Russ Wallis did it with his A1, so it should certainly be doable, except for the clamping mechanism I would imagine. Whether they are comfortable with doing the job is the real question that remains
 
Emailed desert tech. I can’t get my trigger adjusted down to the “1.5” claimed in the specs without the set screw falling out. About a thread and a half on the screw has me at 2.5+ And without a dab of rockset it probably would have fallen out eventually. Response was “we changed the trigger due to safety issues; you can get a gunsmith to work some magic but it voids you’re (sic) warranty.”

The fuck? That’s a little disheartening after 5k.
 
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Does anyone use their Desert Tech in PRS matches? The only real downside i can see is the magazines and shooting support side. I do really like how the rifle handles and balances for off hand shooting. And that you can run a 26-28" barrel with little downside. Tossing up between a used A1 or a new A2. I like that the A2 is MLock but people seem to prefer the A1 trigger? Plus i can get a complete A1 used for around the same price as an A2 chassis.

Cheers
Mlok doesnt matter when everyone run Arca. If you were really hard up for picitinny rails, midwest gunworks sells the desert tech ones for less than most every Mlok pic rails. The 1lb weight loss of the A2 would work against you. Accuracy will be the same.
 
Old standard 22-250 anyone? Sorry if this has been hashed out but I can't find anything with various searches.
Just wondering if anyone has done this in the DT and is there feeding issues?
I'm debating rebarreling my Savage 12 or just getting one for the DT. I'm somewhat invested in the strait up 22-250 so not that interested in other chamberings.
My use is shooting light bullets at prairie dogs with spectacular explosions.
 
Old standard 22-250 anyone? Sorry if this has been hashed out but I can't find anything with various searches.
Just wondering if anyone has done this in the DT and is there feeding issues?
I'm debating rebarreling my Savage 12 or just getting one for the DT. I'm somewhat invested in the strait up 22-250 so not that interested in other chamberings.
My use is shooting light bullets at prairie dogs with spectacular explosions.

I have ran one. It fed fine, 1:8” shot 75gr eld’s really well. Once it was toast I went to a .22-250ai.
 
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If you'll be shooting strictly light bullets, why not go 12 or even 14 twist? Slightly higher velocity and even more explosive results.

I feel that the 53 Vmax offers a really nice combination of velocity, less wind deflection, and explosiveness. Could probably go to a little heavier bullet with the 10 twist also.
This is all quite debatable. I'm looking for real experience with this cartridge in the DT platform. I'm a little concerned about feeding, extracting or magazine issues due to the 22-250 body taper.
 
Emailed desert tech. I can’t get my trigger adjusted down to the “1.5” claimed in the specs without the set screw falling out. About a thread and a half on the screw has me at 2.5+ And without a dab of rockset it probably would have fallen out eventually. Response was “we changed the trigger due to safety issues; you can get a gunsmith to work some magic but it voids you’re (sic) warranty.”

The fuck? That’s a little disheartening after 5k.

I'm running an A2 without the screw. As I recall it's about 1.5 pounds. No issues with screw full removed.
 
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I'm running an A2 without the screw. As I recall it's about 1.5 pounds. No issues with screw full removed.
That’s awesome to know. Thanks.
First groups today through the TS customs barrel. Uncommon for me to shoot 10 round groups but felt like it after moving the first over.
C5AC7BBA-BBE3-41C8-83C6-46EC318A98E5.jpeg
ACA6D0BF-59F2-4457-ABE6-71D76B12B8A7.jpeg
 
Emailed desert tech. I can’t get my trigger adjusted down to the “1.5” claimed in the specs without the set screw falling out. About a thread and a half on the screw has me at 2.5+ And without a dab of rockset it probably would have fallen out eventually. Response was “we changed the trigger due to safety issues; you can get a gunsmith to work some magic but it voids you’re (sic) warranty.”

The fuck? That’s a little disheartening after 5k.
This is odd and disappointing. Mine is down to 1.5. I believe the screw is still in there although I can’t recall and now don’t want to take the skins off!
 
Who makes a short pic rail to go in front of the RRS tripod rail on a covert. Or, how are you attaching your bipeds?
 

Hardware can be found at Home Depot for pennies
 
Need a shorter pic rail than listed on that site to fit in front of the RRS tripod rail. Holes also have to match. May just have to cut a DT rail section drill and counter sink
 
Almost positive that neither the two screw or three screw picatinny rails will fit in front of the RRS rail that goes right in front of the trigger guard.

I usually just hook my bipod on the front 2in of the RRS rail and the tripod hooks on way further back towards trigger.

I see your problem though, it would be nice to have a small picatinny rail in front for a atlas with adm or similar.
 
Figured I’d throw this up for those who like this sort of thing; I personally don’t and will be swapping it out.
I traded a friend my 0MOA Spuhr SP-4002 for his SP-4601 thinking it was a 1.5”.. wrong (4062). Here is a Razor G2 in a 1.18” 20MOA mount on an A2 chassis for those who use an eye socket weld.
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Just wondering if anyone here has done a 6 br or dasher? I remember somewhere way back in this thread I think someone did a 6 dasher and it fed OK.
 
Just wondering if anyone here has done a 6 br or dasher? I remember somewhere way back in this thread I think someone did a 6 dasher and it fed OK.

I tried a Dasher against the advice of many DT shooters and couldn't get it to reliably feed or clear the ejection port. The issue is the stubby little cartridge. Once it clears the feed lips, the round isn't long enough to reach the barrel extension. Ejection was an issue about 30% to 40% of the time. The brass wouldn't clear and would bounce back into the breach. 6XC remedies all those ills
 
Yeah I kinda figured it was a lost cause. I just remember some guy doing it with a dasher and long bullets said if he ran the bolt fast it would chamber and eject ok. Was just looking for a cheaper shooting option without dropping the big bucks on a 223 conversion. I have all the stuff for 6 creed from my gas gun maybe do that or look into the 223 conversion.
 
anyone know how to remove srs-a2 forearm? 8x torx screws are removed but the forearms still on it pretty good. I don’t want to make Any expensive mistake since I just bought it new. TIA
 
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I can't get ahold of anyone from Desert Tech so couple of questions.
- If I have a older Covert Gen 2 - Can I use a Covert A2 conversion kit ? Vice versa - If I were to get a new A2 chassis, would there be issue if I were to install my older barrel and bolt ?
- Can I upgrade the old covert picatinny forearm to either the A1 or the A2 covert ?
- Is the trigger pretravel/creep much improved on the A2 ?
 
First off, you should know by now this is where you should be asking these questions.

I can't get ahold of anyone from Desert Tech so couple of questions.
- If I have a older Covert Gen 2 - Can I use a Covert A2 conversion kit ? YES. Vice versa - If I were to get a new A2 chassis, would there be issue if I were to install my older barrel and bolt ? NO ISSUES.
- Can I upgrade the old covert picatinny forearm to either the A1 or the A2 covert ? A1, maybe, post a picture of the top of the rail and we can tell. You cannot upgrade the Gen2 or A1 handguard to the A2.
- Is the trigger pretravel/creep much improved on the A2 ? By all accounts, the A1 offers more adjustability than the A2 trigger so I am guessing no, the A1 probably has a better trigger than the A2. I don’t have an A2 though.
 
First off, you should know by now this is where you should be asking these questions.

Thanks - really appreciate the quick response. I love my my Gen 2 - It's still is an unbelievable shooters, I really lucked out. The only thing I want to improve a little is the ARCA rail so going with a A1 forearm open up the ability to put a RRS longer plate which helps put the rifle more centered on the tripod. Also I've studied the Gen 2/A1 trigger a little bit and think if I can a spare safety tab I can make a really really good trigger out of it.

My handguard is the one with the key which I believe is same as some A1.

igNF7sU.jpg
 
I can't get ahold of anyone from Desert Tech so couple of questions.
- If I have a older Covert Gen 2 - Can I use a Covert A2 conversion kit ? Vice versa - If I were to get a new A2 chassis, would there be issue if I were to install my older barrel and bolt ?
- Can I upgrade the old covert picatinny forearm to either the A1 or the A2 covert ?
- Is the trigger pretravel/creep much improved on the A2 ?

If you buy a new A2 chassis.
I believe gen 2 bolts and and barrels fit.
you can easily get a picatinny rail section that can attach to the mlok forend. Attached a picture from mine.
trigger in A2 is not as adjustable as the A1. Fair warning. Mine is ok, but I can’t adjust as easily and I had to add some padding to the pistol grip so my trigger finger hit right.
 

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Thanks - really appreciate the quick response. I love my my Gen 2 - It's still is an unbelievable shooters, I really lucked out. The only thing I want to improve a little is the ARCA rail so going with a A1 forearm open up the ability to put a RRS longer plate which helps put the rifle more centered on the tripod. Also I've studied the Gen 2/A1 trigger a little bit and think if I can a spare safety tab I can make a really really good trigger out of it.

My handguard is the one with the key which I believe is same as some A1.

igNF7sU.jpg


If you are looking for the full length handguard, you will need this.
https://www.eurooptic.com/DT-SRS-PK-027-SBK-A1-Desert-Tech-DT-SRS-Upgrade-KIT-from-Cov.aspx
You can contact a dealer to see if they can order one from Desert Tech but its expensive, probably discontinued, and wont match the patina you have on your gun already. You may want to ask if someone on the forum wants to swap you handguards, your Covert for their full size A1 handguard.

If the concern is about getting the rifle centered over the tripod, all you need is the RRS Desert Tech Plate. This is all I use and its perfect sitting on a tripod.
https://www.reallyrightstuff.com/BSRS-A1-Desert-Tech-Forearm-Mount
The center/balance point of the rifle is right about where your thumb is in the above picture, right in front of the trigger guard with a typical factory barrel.

Here’s mine:

91697F2B-48F7-4F2A-94A8-CE276F460AC3.jpeg
 
Does anyone use their Desert Tech in PRS matches? The only real downside i can see is the magazines and shooting support side. I do really like how the rifle handles and balances for off hand shooting. And that you can run a 26-28" barrel with little downside. Tossing up between a used A1 or a new A2. I like that the A2 is MLock but people seem to prefer the A1 trigger? Plus i can get a complete A1 used for around the same price as an A2 chassis.

Cheers
I've used one for two seasons. To be honest, it's not the best for PRS.
1. Rear heavy. On positional stages, I would prefer more weight forward.
2. Weak side shooting is more difficult due to bolt manipulation
3. Bolt manipulation can cause spent brass to bounce off your hand and back into the chamber. This happens more when you are in a weird position and run the bolt slow, but it happens.
4. When shooting a positional stage combined with a rear support, like putting your rifle over barricade and tripod leg to support the rear, bolt manipulation becomes more difficult. This is because the bolt travel path can intersect with the tripod.
5. Single loading is more difficult.
 
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If you are looking for the full length handguard, you will need this.
https://www.eurooptic.com/DT-SRS-PK-027-SBK-A1-Desert-Tech-DT-SRS-Upgrade-KIT-from-Cov.aspx
You can contact a dealer to see if they can order one from Desert Tech but its expensive, probably discontinued, and wont match the patina you have on your gun already. You may want to ask if someone on the forum wants to swap you handguards, your Covert for their full size A1 handguard.

If the concern is about getting the rifle centered over the tripod, all you need is the RRS Desert Tech Plate. This is all I use and its perfect sitting on a tripod.
https://www.reallyrightstuff.com/BSRS-A1-Desert-Tech-Forearm-Mount
The center/balance point of the rifle is right about where your thumb is in the above picture, right in front of the trigger guard with a typical factory barrel.

Here’s mine:

View attachment 7325533
YEah that’s exactly how I want to run mine but RRS doesn’t make a full length picatinny adapter which is why I want to upgrade to the slim line A1 so I can get the full plate that goes to all the way to the trigger guard. Plus it’ll make it easier to position the area 419 arcalock gamechanger.
 
For those looking for a Picatinny rail section to go in front of the RRS chassis adapter on a Covert the rail section that comes with the MagPul RVG forward hand grip have the right hole spacing.

Last week I added the RRS adapter to my Covert and was thinking of getting the ARCA adapter for my Atlas. Rooting around the garage I found the rail from an RVG fore grip I bought last year and the hole spacing was right to place it in front of the RRS adapter. All you need is some M4-0.7mm button head screws.

ill try and take picks tomorrow of what it looks like. I like it because I didn’t have to buy the ARCA adapter and it puts the bipod as far forward as possible on the Covert.

Edit: This is for the A1 of course.
 
For those looking for a Picatinny rail section to go in front of the RRS chassis adapter on a Covert the rail section that comes with the MagPul RVG forward hand grip have the right hole spacing.

Last week I added the RRS adapter to my Covert and was thinking of getting the ARCA adapter for my Atlas. Rooting around the garage I found the rail from an RVG fore grip I bought last year and the hole spacing was right to place it in front of the RRS adapter. All you need is some M4-0.7mm button head screws.

ill try and take picks tomorrow of what it looks like. I like it because I didn’t have to buy the ARCA adapter and it puts the bipod as far forward as possible on the Covert.

Edit: This is for the A1 of course.
Thank you. Was going to cut drill and countersink the DT rail
 
Here are pics of the MagPul rail I posted about above.
 

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they don’t list it but it doesn’t hurt to ask. Worst case is you get a picatinny fore grip to use elsewhere or sell.

Edit: The 3-slot MOE rail looks close, worth a call to MagPul to find out the hole spacing.
 
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Here are some more pics.
 

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