UM Tactical will do that as well
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Unfortunately the only suppressors around here are owned by movie assassins and the rich/politically connected.
Looks like an interesting "DIY" brake, but seems like it belongs on an AR more than a bolt action precision rifle? Not that it couldn't work but there are no rapid followup shots.
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You can custom tune the break to your built gun. I run one on a .308 works great if you need to direct gas a certain direction
I've just run the simple single port DTA brake on my 16" barrel for years. It's not super efficient like Fat Bastard and Hellfire brakes, but it works well enough and doesn't blast you in the face. I think I've got a spare one laying around if you need one.
Went to the range and was reminded of an issue I've had a few times running the SRS. Sometimes when I run the bolt, the brass ejects, hits my hand, and bounces back into the action. Not a big deal to clear but has cost me a few seconds more than once in competition. Are any of y'all having this issue and if so how do you keep it from happening?
I learned long ago that you just need to run the bolt aggressively with the SRS.
Edit: That at least solved my ejecting & feeding problems. For all I know, you may have enormous brass-blocking hands, in which case you might need to do some surgery to fix that particular problem.
Edit: That at least solved my ejecting & feeding problems. For all I know, you may have enormous brass-blocking hands, in which case you might need to do some surgery to fix that particular problem.
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I have soft women's hands so I don't have that problem. Run it like a man
Acknowledged. I'll go back out on Friday and take video of me running it as hard as I can and see if I can replicate the issue. This is with 300WM FYSA. Not sure if that is a contributing factor. I can't remember if I've had the issue with it using 6.5CM
Give it a try moving your whole forearm from the elbow not the just using your wrist. If I keep my elbow static and just bend my wrist to cycle the bolt I’ll bounce brass off my knuckles in to the port.
and run it hard
here's my 33xc srsA2 built with a custom bartlein 33" abd terminator t5 mb here in Europe runing berger 300gr hybrid at 3190fts. Using an ivey mount 200MOA and march 5-40x56 FFP. Holding a out 5-6inch of vertical at 1500m Full review
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Hi DTA peoples! I am looking to purchase a 338LM barrel for my DA SRS A1. Let me know if you got one, or have a good lead. Slim pickings right now unless I want to get a very nice but $$$ proof barrel.
Thanks again
Sako.
Thanks again
Sako.
Try SAC or TS Customs. Or bugholes ?
Tried SAC, yes. Friend recommended TS and will look into them. Bugholes is a guy on SH right? Thanks for the feedback.
If you see a factory barre for sale they are no slouches for accuracy etc either
Shot was 95 yards to the neck, DRT. She was sitting on the woodpile behind me in the photo. 6.5 cm with 144 gn Bergers.
For all you monopod users, how do you tame the rifle from the bench? This is my first monopod (usually go off bags) and the rifle was bouncing all over the place from the bench. I would lose sight picture after every shot. Tried it again with a bag and it was fine.
Any monopod usage tips?
BTW @mountainman308 (photo above), what do you with that after shooting it? Can you eat it?
Any monopod usage tips?
BTW @mountainman308 (photo above), what do you with that after shooting it? Can you eat it?
You can eat them, most don’t/won’t.
They tear up fields, wood stacks and yards, and must be exterminated whenever possible. They usually get tossed where you won’t smell them but can shoot the coyotes that come to scavenge here.
They tear up fields, wood stacks and yards, and must be exterminated whenever possible. They usually get tossed where you won’t smell them but can shoot the coyotes that come to scavenge here.
I think you'll find there is a reason most don't shoot with a monopod.
I'm ashamed to admit that I spent 5 seconds trying to figure out how this applied to the subject of monopods.
This is what I think is my problem causing brass to be knocked back in the port.Give it a try moving your whole forearm from the elbow not the just using your wrist. If I keep my elbow static and just bend my wrist to cycle the bolt I’ll bounce brass off my knuckles in to the port.
and run it hard
If I use the monopod, I still put a bag under it to help with stability. I only use the monopod if the bag isn't tall enough to support the rifle.
How much less does the a2 chassis weigh compared to the a1 chassis?
Thanks
Thanks
I pulled my monopod out. Haven’t found a situation where a rear bag isn’t better. A rear bag with git lite is almost the same weight
@jamieschulz i think I’m the case of the chassis by themselves, you lose a pound by going to the A2. @pinhead has a breakdown of DT SRS component weights
@jamieschulz i think I’m the case of the chassis by themselves, you lose a pound by going to the A2. @pinhead has a breakdown of DT SRS component weights
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Thanks
Im sure you could if you were hungry enough, but I wasn’t that hungry. This was purely a pest control mission so we turned it into coyote bait.
All the 16" 308 SRS A2 coverts are supposed to have a 3/4"-24 thread per DT and the FAQ on their website. Mine has a 5/8"-24 thread. I'm also seeing there are 1:8 and 1:10 twist versions. Did DT change this at some point, and how do I figure out what I have? Very frustrating, I just bought the wrong size brake in 3/4" that is actually larger diameter than my entire barrel!
- What is the muzzle thread pitch used for each caliber?
3/4x24 for all SRS calibers - Why doesn't the SRS 308 win have the standard 5/8x24 thread pitch?
We threaded all the calibers ¾x24 for two reasons, number one the larger thread creates a stiffer barrel enhancing accuracy, number two is the 3/4x24 pitch enables one to use .338 caliber silencers on all four caliber barrels, it is very effective and saves money. The ¾x24 thread pattern is large enough that customers can easily have their own gunsmith rethread their barrels down to 5/8x24 if they wish. We do not do custom threads but you can get a 3/4x24 to 5/8x24 thread adapter from Delta P Design
Finally got around to shooting and rezeroing with the new m2 chassis. I had to trim a little off the rail where it extends past the hand guard to fit the 22” 308 barrel and 338ultra. I may still just cut it off flush. It seems pretty pointless.
Has anyone noticed cratering with the newer bolts? Pretty mild load
44gr Varget, 175 Rdf, win brass and br-2 primers. I need to take a pic when I get back home but it’s noticeable vs my gen 2 bolt. Reminds me of a factory Remington 700.
Has anyone noticed cratering with the newer bolts? Pretty mild load
44gr Varget, 175 Rdf, win brass and br-2 primers. I need to take a pic when I get back home but it’s noticeable vs my gen 2 bolt. Reminds me of a factory Remington 700.
They went to 5/8x24 and lighter contours with the a2 models. The 16” 308 should be a 1/8 to let you stabilize subsonics too.
Really DT?! Would be nice if they updated their website then. Would have saved me time and $ buying the wrong brake.
I'm seriously considering it.
I have gotten SO much use out of my first Gen SRS and have so many barrels for it, but the pin-based barrel extensions are getting really hard to get and as a system they are fairly delicate (I've had to replace mine 4 times over the last 12 years). So I've been thinking about getting a newer chassis to complement this one once things calm down and I find a local FFL that's worthy of giving money to.
I have gotten SO much use out of my first Gen SRS and have so many barrels for it, but the pin-based barrel extensions are getting really hard to get and as a system they are fairly delicate (I've had to replace mine 4 times over the last 12 years). So I've been thinking about getting a newer chassis to complement this one once things calm down and I find a local FFL that's worthy of giving money to.
I've also considered it. I've been having so much fun this year with my A2 but its sort of been living in between being a comp gun and being a field gun. I kind of want to go all in ultralight compact field gun with my A2 that I have now and then go all in with an M2 to setup for competition but I haven't the money for it atm. That said, if it was either or between an A2 or M2, I don't see a reason to go with M2 over the A2 or to "upgrade" from A2 to M2
I'll be running my gen 1 with gen 2 barrels/bolts, unless I find a deal to good to pass up.
Why do you need gen 2 bolts? Any of them will work with either barrel extension.
Doggie, You've popped 4 pins? I still haven't broken any. Original tiny roll pin from a 2010 rifle used for demos of the barrel change system and a variety of shoots. I have run a few of the gen 2 extensions and test customer gen 2 barrels in my gen 1. You have to line up the bolt and barrel before locking down the screws though. Its not an instant line up like the pin or the gen 2 rifle. This means barrel changes take 45 seconds instead of 30.
Frank
Doggie, You've popped 4 pins? I still haven't broken any. Original tiny roll pin from a 2010 rifle used for demos of the barrel change system and a variety of shoots. I have run a few of the gen 2 extensions and test customer gen 2 barrels in my gen 1. You have to line up the bolt and barrel before locking down the screws though. Its not an instant line up like the pin or the gen 2 rifle. This means barrel changes take 45 seconds instead of 30.
Frank
Yep Frank, I learned over time the first few years with it to first close the bolt before tightening down the bolts. That was one issue resolved. The other was during my New Zealand years with it; I really beat it to hell up and down mountains and in the bush. After one trip I got back and did a local comp and found that I was hitting 8 mils to the left at 300m. A careful look at the barrel and it appeared to be slightly canted. Confirmed with other barrels and a set of calipers and super-duper confirmed with gunsmith. Replaced pin for 4th time and back to normal.
It's not a great system but it works. It's just not robust and now every time I travel for some ELR shooting, I pack it gently in a hard foam-fitted case because I'm paranoid about bending the damned pin again.
It's not a great system but it works. It's just not robust and now every time I travel for some ELR shooting, I pack it gently in a hard foam-fitted case because I'm paranoid about bending the damned pin again.
Just picked this up. Will probably replace the Spuhr with something a bit lower.
Try the high Spuhr before you replace it. Higher has treated me better.
I use an Elite bipod on my DT and really like it.
Try that one out first. I ran a 1.5 for a long time but figured out the 1.7” is way more comfortable.
Yep, got you there. The gen 2 system is so much more solid and repeatable. Had to start somewhere though. I don't really haul my rifle anywhere but from the car to the bench normally so I don't get the same wear and tear you do. I never really thought about bending the pin either. Roll pins are usually pretty brittle and the tiny ones just break most of the time. Have to pay closer attention now...
Frank
Just measure. I think the 3.6-18 is 14” length and the 5-25 is 15.7” length.
I run an old S&B 5-25x on my Covert and at 16.2" it's pretty much flush with the end of the handguard (in over a decade it's never been an issue either).
Is that the earlier DT 4 cap screw scope mount? I really wanted one of those and then they discontinued it.
Everything about that rifle is "earlier" - it's a Gen 1 SRS with a prototype DTA mount, late 00's S&B, factory 18" .338LM barrel circa 2011, custom RND bipod from 2009.
That muzzle brake and color scheme looks like it belongs in Star Wars
