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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

M77 said:
Bit of back laying shooting with the SRS in 223 at 400yards. Certainly helps with fuck all recoil. View attachment 7831467
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You rockin that without the buttpad? I'll assume there's an interesting story behind that. As an aside, you running a Steiner M7?

Finally got my big SKB case in and put everything together in the case and on the rifle (connected the Kiji to the M-lock and the PVS-30 to the top rail and put the bipod mount onto an Picatinny to ARCA adapter. Still waiting on 3 barrels, 2 mags and 1 bolt but it all fits and the case closes nicely and with the PVS-30 mounted the NV to scope gap is perfectly filled with the foam wall, not too tight, not too loose. It's heavy as all shit but it rolls easy enough to the car and it looks just goddamned cool. Super glad I got the super duper foam with the color top cover. Looks much better than sorta grey.
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spamassassin said:
You rockin that without the buttpad? I'll assume there's an interesting story behind that. As an aside, you running a Steiner M7?

Finally got my big SKB case in and put everything together in the case and on the rifle (connected the Kiji to the M-lock and the PVS-30 to the top rail and put the bipod mount onto an Picatinny to ARCA adapter. Still waiting on 3 barrels, 2 mags and 1 bolt but it all fits and the case closes nicely and with the PVS-30 mounted the NV to scope gap is perfectly filled with the foam wall, not too tight, not too loose. It's heavy as all shit but it rolls easy enough to the car and it looks just goddamned cool. Super glad I got the super duper foam with the color top cover. Looks much better than sorta grey.
casefullofawesome.jpg
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Looks awesome. But I have to ask... how much does that weigh shown?
 
spamassassin said:
You rockin that without the buttpad? I'll assume there's an interesting story behind that. As an aside, you running a Steiner M7?
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Nah the buttpad is on, must be the picture.
Yes I've been running the m7 for almost 2 years now. Has been excellent for me
 
M77 said:
Would you say there's any less friction running the bolt ? Have you noticed anything vs the original bolts
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Absolutely. It's like glass. My a1 bolt was kinda sticky and still isn't great.
 
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matleez said:
Absolutely. It's like glass. My a1 bolt was kinda sticky and still isn't great.
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The A2 bolt I noticed is smoother than the A1 yes but the newer 2022 nickel boron finish on the A2 bolts I’m not noticing much difference over a standard A2 bolt when running while shooting. In the hand however, sliding the telescoping shroud (or whatever it’s called) in you’re finger tips it does seem smoother comparing the two. Almost as if it’s on miniature ball bearings
 
Hey guys, I tried searching for this so apologies in advance if I missed it, but does anyone sell a plug for the monopod slot on the A1? I’m going to try coyote hunting with my SRSA1 and won’t need the monopod (will be hunting off a tripod). Thanks
 
I know you don’t “need” to use the barrel lock function on the SRS platform but is the SAC 223 conversion not suppose to have the little barrel bevel to allow for the barrel lock?

Also anybody ever had a barrel that has the bevel for the barrel lock but the barrel lock doesn’t twist to engage?

My 223 conversion doesn’t have one and my 300 prc conversion seems slightly too small and doesn’t allow the barrel lock function to turn (therefore not allowing the barrel to lock)

Shot the 223 conversion no problems, going to shoot the 300prc here soon and noticed it today

Barrel on the right is a 450bm (which locks in the chassis) left is a 300 prc which does not lock
 

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HenryTheAce said:
I know you don’t “need” to use the barrel lock function on the SRS platform but is the SAC 223 conversion not suppose to have the little barrel bevel to allow for the barrel lock?

Also anybody ever had a barrel that has the bevel for the barrel lock but the barrel lock doesn’t twist to engage?

My 223 conversion doesn’t have one and my 300 prc conversion seems slightly too small and doesn’t allow the barrel lock function to turn (therefore not allowing the barrel to lock)

Shot the 223 conversion no problems, going to shoot the 300prc here soon and noticed it today

Barrel on the right is a 450bm (which locks in the chassis) left is a 300 prc which does not lock
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Me. Mine new 6gt doesn't lock in. Why idfk. It's in the exact same spot and dimensions. Someone elsewhere said they never lock theirs in and haven't had an issue. I'll let you know tomorrow taking it out for load development. I had a CF223 from Sac and there was no issues without the lock.
 
matleez said:
Me. Mine new 6gt doesn't lock in. Why idfk. It's in the exact same spot and dimensions. Someone elsewhere said they never lock theirs in and haven't had an issue. I'll let you know tomorrow taking it out for load development. I had a CF223 from Sac and there was no issues without the lock.
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Yeah my 223 ran just fine without locking but it also doesn’t have that little bevel so it can’t lock. Odd that my 300prc and your 6🌈🐅 both have the slice to allow for the barrel lock but won’t actually lock
 
All of mine will lock just dropping the barrel in but after torquing the barrel down the lock cam seizes up on some. I’ve gotten into the habit of not using it. I figure that’s extra stress on the barrel that’s not necessarily clamping it in so I don’t see it as beneficial.
 
I only have one of five barrels that actually has the recess for locking. Never really used it and the rifle has worked awesome. I believe it has nothing to do with accuracy unless you have zeroed your rifle with it than I would stick with using it.
 
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I’ve had an idea rattling around in my head and I’m wondering if anybody has done it. DT needs a contour that has 1.25” for the first 5” or so from the chamber. In another thread someone mentioned the thread diameter and pitch for the extension is the same as a rem 700 and headspace is usually +/- .010”.

Has anyone mounted and headspaced an extension on a more normal contour barrel and then sleeved the barrel shank to get to DT spec?

The extension is still threaded to the actual barrel and is containing the pressure. The sleeve is just there to allow the chassis to clamp the barrel.

We’ve been doing it this way to convert standard ar15 and ar10/Sr25 barrels into Lmt Mrp and Mws rifles for years.

Could be an option to be able to use more common and available blanks to get spun up since lead times are so crazy.
 
newguy2k3v2 said:
I’ve had an idea rattling around in my head and I’m wondering if anybody has done it. DT needs a contour that has 1.25” for the first 5” or so from the chamber. In another thread someone mentioned the thread diameter and pitch for the extension is the same as a rem 700 and headspace is usually +/- .010”.

Has anyone mounted and headspaced an extension on a more normal contour barrel and then sleeved the barrel shank to get to DT spec?

The extension is still threaded to the actual barrel and is containing the pressure. The sleeve is just there to allow the chassis to clamp the barrel.

We’ve been doing it this way to convert standard ar15 and ar10/Sr25 barrels into Lmt Mrp and Mws rifles for years.

Could be an option to be able to use more common and available blanks to get spun up since lead times are so crazy.
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That was me, I like the idea. When I'm at my smith on Wednesday I'll throw the idea at him and see what he thinks. Has potential
 
spamassassin said:
I'm sure it was. I'm just poking at you as in the highest tradition of the hide.

I honestly wish that Jard or Timney would pop an aftermarket trigger for the SRS. The trigger on my M2 is really good but I'm sure that if a specialist designer of triggers were to be locked in a room and tempted with a bit of free beer and pizza that they could improve on it enough to justify a few hundred bucks of expenditure.
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I’d like a 2 stage but the factory trigger is pretty good I need to adjust it with the primal rights guide tho
 
Coyote Kev said:
Here's my hillbilly $0 fix. Drill a hole in the back of the mag where the mag meets the rear of the magwell. Put a punch in the hole and pry to bend the metal out a little bit. This puts pressure on the lower back of the mag and tilts the front of the mag up slightly. All you need is a couple hundredths. If you go too far and the mag sticks tight just push the bump back down a little. Worked perfect in shop testing. Needs some hard field use to confirm.
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What velocity are you getting with 53s?
 
So. On this wild ass idea of taking a standard contour barrel and making a sleeve for it.....we're gunna try it. He said he has been think about it for a few weeks since he did my 6gt. Will report back as the project continues.
 
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Does anyone here know if the SRS mags are patented?
I remember reading patent pending but i do not see that anymore...
 
That's a good question. I seem to remember Nick made them proprietary because he wanted a magazine that could handle bullets seated longer than other commercial mags and have a shoulder capture feature so restrict case movement. Did it end up being patented? Not sure, but those features do sound like something they might want to try to patent. So I guess maybe?
 
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About to take the plunge and rattle can my SRS. Thinking the weird color of my vortex RG2 is swaying me. Before I jump in, anyone have any issues painting their SRS?

Been a LONG time since I've been on the boards. If the SRS turns out alright, will probably paint my MDRx as well.
 
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Dang, you are brave. Post pics. I need to live vicariously through y'all while I wait for mine to come back home from SAC
 
IMO, rattle can is a bit "ghetto" for such a fine instrument. I used Duracoat and an air brush. I don't recall it being any more difficult to paint than any other gun. Take the skins off, clean it up good (I use brake cleaner), rough it a bit with fine steel wool or similar, and mask off parts you don't want paint on.
DTA1.png
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DTA3.png
 
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SupressYourself said:
IMO, rattle can is a bit "ghetto" for such a fine instrument. I used Duracoat and an air brush. I don't recall it being any more difficult to paint than any other gun. Take the skins off, clean it up good (I use brake cleaner), rough it a bit with fine steel wool or similar, and mask off
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That does look good. Was planning on dropping $500 to get a Kryptek Highlander cerakote, but then figured I'd be bouncing between places and was too lazy to disassemble the rifle. It is a fine instrument, but it's still a tool that I don't put on a pedestal. I went ahead and tried with spraying my extended rail which I thought came out great! So later I taped off the special bits, kept it assembled and started with three coats of black on the vortex scope. The vortex in black looks SO much better than the their signature (copper?). Then went with stripes and a netted cloth with Krylon forest green, Alumihyde Magpul FDE (I had laying around), and Krylon black. The Alumihyde FDE nozzle started shitting itself half way through and became a stream instead of a spray no matter how much I cleaned the nozzle. The krylon nozzles were excellent. Oh well... Was hoping the rifle would come out like the rail did. I'm not too concerned as the paint will wear off over time anyway and I'll most like be re spraying for the desert ranges this summer. Going to wait for it to dry out for a few day before removing the tape and putting bolt/barrel back in.

I have used the Alumihyde FDE to paint my 338 barrel with 3 coats, then baked it a few years ago. Came out great and hasn't chipped, faded, or worn off. I don't expect the 1 coat of this to be as durable.

Think for my MDRx I'll just paint my Vortex black and keep the rest stock. It is a pain in the ass to have to tape off everything. Really wanting to plasti dip the grip. Love the feel of the Magpul MOE+ grips. I do plan on rattle canning my Flux Raider as well.
 

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matleez said:
Directly from them?
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Yeppers. I ordered a ton of stuff and at the time the barrel showed as shipping expected February 17, 2022. I was really hoping it would ship by then but I didn't count on it. Delays of this sort don't surprise me or even irritate me right now given the supply chain issues I've been seeing around all things I've ordered that are fabricated from good quality grades of steel and aluminum. DT has sent me everything they could send me the minute they had one to send. I've been getting single magazines, bolts, bolt stops, yadda yadda all in separate shipments for months. That actually really impressed me. It tells me that they're fulfilling orders in an orderly way according to what they can do instead of just having me wait months for a bulk shipment of everything I ordered.
 
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Do you guys think the M2 chassis is worth waiting on compared to the SRS-A2 chassis if night vision is a consideration in the future. I’m looking to take the plunge into one or the other. I will be purchasing second hand. SRS A2 chassis pop up in the exchange regularly while I haven't seen a M2 for sale second hand yet. I’m in no rush.
 
wade2big said:
Do you guys think the M2 chassis is worth waiting on compared to the SRS-A2 chassis if night vision is a consideration in the future. I’m looking to take the plunge into one or the other. I will be purchasing second hand. SRS A2 chassis pop up in the exchange regularly while I haven't seen a M2 for sale second hand yet. I’m in no rush.
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Along those lines, couldn’t you just add a picatinny mlok rail to the top of the handguard on the A2 if you wanted to mount a clip on?
 
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bmicek said:
Along those lines, couldn’t you just add a picatinny mlok rail to the top of the handguard on the A2 if you wanted to mount a clip on?
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I see thats an option. I just read that its ideal to have the nv device and and main optic on the same plain. Tough to do using a canted mount although the scopes I use and the distances I shoot, I really don’t have to have a canted mount.
 
You could but the m2 has the built in 20 moa rail. Giving the NV "better" clarity. Pvs-27 or pvs-30 shouldn't care. I was planning on the 30 with the a2 but never got around to it
 
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can attest to this, 30 MOA mount, 0 rail for PVS-30 no issues, id get what ever pops up, from what ive heard guys like the A1 chassis better for the trigger...no experience in the A2/M2 trigger but i love my A1 Trigger, its probably 1.5lbs and you get the full top rail
 
matleez said:
can attest to this, 30 MOA mount, 0 rail for PVS-30 no issues, id get what ever pops up, from what ive heard guys like the A1 chassis better for the trigger...no experience in the A2/M2 trigger but i love my A1 Trigger, its probably 1.5lbs and you get the full top rail
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Good to know. Thanks

I’ve seen more people like the a2 trigger over the a1 trigger. I’ve read where guys say they are dang near the same and others liking the A1 over the A2.

The main reason I want the A2 over the A1 is weight. Its supposedly a lighter chassis.
 
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thats accurate, mine is heavy with an atacr, tbac 338 and a 26 Heavy varm barrel....it comes in at 23 lbs
 
matleez said:
thats accurate, mine is heavy with an atacr, tbac 338 and a 26 Heavy varm barrel....it comes in at 23 lbs
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Shooting a beast of a cartridge like that probably warrants the weight. I bet that’s a nice setup.
 
wade2big said:
Good to know. Thanks

I’ve seen more people like the a2 trigger over the a1 trigger. I’ve read where guys say they are dang near the same and others liking the A1 over the A2.

The main reason I want the A2 over the A1 is weight. Its supposedly a lighter chassis.
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Just sold an A1 and it had a fair amount better trigger than my A2. But my A2 is lighter. My A2 has the trigger at the lowest setting it’ll go and I’d estimate it at maybe 2-2.5lbs ish. Just a guess.
 
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bmicek said:
Just sold an A1 and it had a fair amount better trigger than my A2. But my A2 is lighter. My A2 has the trigger at the lowest setting it’ll go and I’d estimate it at maybe 2-2.5lbs ish. Just a guess.
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Is the weight why you kept the a2 over the a1?
 
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