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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

long range newbie said:
oh and I've never really looked at the sako quad I've heard of the name but nothing about it, looked it up and now I just need one god dang man, on eurooptic they have them In mcmillan stocks!
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If you are a family man, think of it as an investment in a multigenerational family heirloom.

If you are not a family man, get it for yourself. Who can complain? :)

idaho1 said:
Take you best guess on the MV and get a "starter"dope chart on GSEVEN.com's web sight ballistic program. Shoot on paper out as far as you can (7-800 yrds) go back to the website and enter your true point of impact data and the computer algorithm will compute your true muzzle velocity and generate a complete printable dope chart. I have used it on several weapons out to 1300 yards and found it to be remarkably accurate once trued. Other programs work the same. This one is free and will keep your data for different loads, guns and altitude densities.
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Thanks a million! I tried unsuccessfully to find such ballistics software. Great tip!
 
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Nukes said:
If you are a family man, think of it as an investment in a multigenerational family heirloom.

If you are not a family man, get it for yourself. Who can complain? :)
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He's 14. Chomping at the bit.
 
idaho1 said:
Take you best guess on the MV and get a "starter"dope chart on GSEVEN.com's web sight ballistic program. Shoot on paper out as far as you can (7-800 yrds) go back to the website and enter your true point of impact data and the computer algorithm will compute your true muzzle velocity and generate a complete printable dope chart. I have used it on several weapons out to 1300 yards and found it to be remarkably accurate once trued. Other programs work the same. This one is free and will keep your data for different loads, guns and altitude densities.
Click to expand...

Thanks I will try that! Thanks also to Rex!
 
dang dogtown you know about everyone on the hide, and every detail about them. Hey man I can always dream of having a sako quad but I will have a dta srs before that :) I will work a whole summer for one of these babies if I need too and it will be worth it (as soon as I can work :) )
 
Not baggin' on you - in fact I applaud your enthusiasm. I'm just trying to help with the context of your posts and remind you to be aware of your boundaries. You can enlist in 3 years. That's a lot of time to get ready by doing lots of listening, practicing the fundamentals of marksmanship, and getting in good physical shape. At this point you need to be the sponge that soaks, not spills.
 
Here we can have jobs at 16. Thanks for the the support man your a great hide member. I you know your facts, and I should just kinda listen rather than talk but yeah I'm learning, thanks
 
If you guys where outfitting a HTI .50 would you spend the extra coin on a NF Beast over the ATACR? I figured I would be shooting at max mag, so FFP is not that important, just wondering if the other features and glass made it worth it to spend an extra $800. Thoughts?
 
I know I slipped up big time on that haha!

I'm trying to get him to put a bluetooth in it so I can connect with a vectronix, would be PERFECT!
 
Just picked an ATACR up, a few weeks ago, I rate it very superior to my previous six NXS scopes, glass is much better! I have no hands on experience with the BEAST, but if you don't need FFP - the ATACR is a fine improvement over previous models IMHO
 
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Hi Guys,
The new DTA is on the way and I decided to get the 18" 338 LM for a semi handy (still heavy) LR elk killer. What loads seem to work best with the short barrel? I pan to hunt with a 280 grain Barnes LRX bullet.
What would be the expected maximum supersonic range?
I am also getting the 7WSM and could use a starting point with that one too?

Thanks
 
DetroitRearView said:
Just picked an ATACR up, a few weeks ago, I rate it very superior to my previous six NXS scopes, glass is much better! I have no hands on experience with the BEAST, but if you don't need FFP - the ATACR is a fine improvement over previous models IMHO
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I would very much like to see a picture of it mounted on your rifle, I'm deciding if I should sell my 5.5-22 to get one!
 
[email protected] said:
I would very much like to see a picture of it mounted on your rifle, I'm deciding if I should sell my 5.5-22 to get one!
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I sold my F1 3.5-15x50, had the 5.5-22x56, like this much better, especially low light...big dif

DTA A1 Covert.jpg
 
idaho1 said:
I decided to get the 18" 338 LM for a semi handy (still heavy) LR elk killer. What loads seem to work best with the short barrel?
Click to expand...

That particular barrel is designed for shooting 300gr bullets, with most folks using H1000 and Retumbo (and some still using RL-25).
 
Thanks Dogtown. My reason for the 280 gr LRX is it is a great bullet for hunting and has a good BC of .667. What bullet for long range hunting is preferred? <1200 yrds.



Dogtown said:
That particular barrel is designed for shooting 300gr bullets, with most folks using H1000 and Retumbo (and some still using RL-25).
Click to expand...
 
You'd be fine with that 280gr bullet. My point is that the 18" barrel is a 1:9, which is designed to stabilize the heavier 300gr bullets, particularly at subsonic speeds.
 
[email protected] said:
I would very much like to see a picture of it mounted on your rifle, I'm deciding if I should sell my 5.5-22 to get one!
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Sadly, it will be a while. I'm still 4-6 months out on the chassis and I haven't purchased the conversion yet. Its worth it to be patient though, I've been shooting DTA's since they first came out and I've never regretted it.
 
Does anyone want to share their reload recipe for long range accuracy with 300gr Berger OTMs and a relatively temperature insensitive powder in their DTA SRS .338 Lapua Magnum 26" barrel?
 
Nukes said:
Does anyone want to share their reload recipe for long range accuracy with 300gr Berger OTMs and a relatively temperature insensitive powder in their DTA SRS .338 Lapua Magnum 26" barrel?
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I would like to hear this to, especially with H1000, I have pounds of it.
 
Nukes said:
Does anyone want to share their reload recipe for long range accuracy with 300gr Berger OTMs and a relatively temperature insensitive powder in their DTA SRS .338 Lapua Magnum 26" barrel?
Click to expand...

Nukes,

I have only had this out to 1000 yards so far, but it is accurate and Chrono's in the single digits. Take it for what it's worth.

DTS SRS Gen2, .338 Lapua Magnum, 26" DTA barrel with the DTA suppressor brake.
* 91.7gr H1000
* Berger 300gr Hybrid OTM Bullet
* Lapua Brass - Neck Tensioned, trimmed case, annealed
* Federal 215M primer
* 10 off lands (measured by Ogive, not OAL).

IF you search on DTA Loads, there is a thread where some other folks have .338 recipes. Those may help too.
 
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Abq-Defense said:
Nukes,

I have only had this out to 1000 yards so far, but it is accurate and Chrono's in the single digits. Take it for what it's worth.

DTS SRS Gen2, .338 Lapua Magnum, 26" DTA barrel with the DTA suppressor brake.
* 91.7gr H1000
* Berger 300gr Hybrid OTM Bullet
* Lapua Brass - Neck Tensioned, trimmed case, annealed
* Federal 215M primer
* 10 off lands (measured by Ogive, not OAL).

If you search on DTA Loads, there is a thread where some other folks have .338 recipes. Those may help too.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that. Since you are from ABQ, you know why I am looking for "temperature insensitive" powders.

I bought the Berger manual and was stunned that there were no loads for any cartridge over .30 caliber. On request Berger was kind enough to provide a list of .338 loads. Don't freak—they list 85.2 gr of H1000 as max for their 300 gr OTM.

After nearly a 20 year lay off from reloading (the time was worth more than the 1990's cost savings for the mil spec stuff I was reloading), I've started afresh for precision, not volume, and I have noticed 3 surprises:

(1) Even in the 90's manufacturers warned caution about any change in components. Now I see published info for ranges of bullet weights and types with presumably different bearing surfaces using the same powder tables.

(2) I have seen several loads published on online resources that exceed the manufacturer's published max load.

(3) I am chronographing much higher velocities from factory loads than their "MAX" reload data.

Other than considerable caution, I am not sure what to do with those observations, but, without going too far off DTA topics am curious how far DTA owners are going with their MAX loads.
 
Nukes said:
Thanks for that. Since you are from ABQ, you know why I am looking for "temperature insensitive" powders.

I bought the Berger manual and was stunned that there were no loads for any cartridge over .30 caliber. On request Berger was kind enough to provide a list of .338 loads. Don't freak—they list 85.2 gr of H1000 as max for their 300 gr OTM.
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Yes, we can develop loads at 35 degrees and in the summer shoot at 100 degrees. The H1000 is pretty temperature resistant.

I know the books have lower Max Loads. I started low and worked my way up checking for pressure signs. All is good so far. My tests showed I could go higher, but I went for the most accurate load.
 
You can go above max for a number of reasons, primarily because the manufacturers have to tend towards the conservative side of their testing spectrum. But as long as you stick to good reloading techniques, knowing what to look for with signs of pressure, you can push them a bit further. And it's important to note that often the fastest load isn't the most accurate.

And as always: safety first. Reloading is kind of like working with explosives, so if you have any doubts about something you've done ("oh, did I just pour the wrong powder into the wrong container?") or a particular component ("hmm, maybe I accidentally annealed the case head?"), ditch it and move on.
 
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tried to post a pic of the mounted ATACR on my A1 Covert yesterday for you...apparently has yet to be approved
 
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Dogtown said:
You can go above max for a number of reasons, primarily because the manufacturers have to tend towards the conservative side of their testing spectrum. But as long as you stick to good reloading techniques, knowing what to look for with signs of pressure, you can push them a bit further. And it's important to note that often the fastest load isn't the most accurate.

And as always: safety first. Reloading is kind of like working with explosives, so if you have any doubts about something you've done ("oh, did I just pour the wrong powder into the wrong container?") or a particular component ("hmm, maybe I accidentally annealed the case head?"), ditch it and move on.
Click to expand...


A lot of us are seating much further out than the load data in the books and manuals so that drops the pressure too. In the end you have to figure out what your rifle likes and use the book data as a starting point or guide to work from.

Frank
 
HELP! WHERE CAN I FIND A NEW SRS????

I talk to DTA and they say their rifles are backordered ONE YEAR!

Does any vendor have them now? For this year I only want a .300 Win mag. barrel, bolt and mags.
 
Go on their dealers page and start calling down the list. I got lucky and got mine from euro optic and my 300 WM conversion from Russ.
 
How much tilt is in that mount? Trying to find out if a ATACR in a spuhr 44moa 1.48 mount will work on a HTI.
 
Hey guys. I was owed some money and the guy couldn't come through. I got a couple conversions to square up and I don't need them. Both are new and unfired.

300 win mag, as mentioned above was sold. I still have the 26" 338 Lapua. This is a complete conversion. 1st gen bolt 1st or second gen extension. Whatever you need.

They are Duracoated Flat Dark Earth.

PM me for pricing.

Russ
 
Happy Day! Just picked her up today. Heading out in the AM to Break her in.

Question on barrel break-in.. DTA mentions nothing in their documentation on procedure. I have a 22" .308, and a 26" .338. Just did a light cleaning on everything and I think she is good to go, but I want to make sure I do things right at the range. Any Recommendations? My dealer suggested cleaning barrel after every shot.. seems excessive, but if that is the way it has to be.. Thoughts? thanks!
2013-07-27 14.33.22.jpg
 
Troutfarm said:
Question on barrel break-in.. DTA mentions nothing in their documentation on procedure. I have a 22" .308, and a 26" .338. Just did a light cleaning on everything and I think she is good to go, but I want to make sure I do things right at the range. Any Recommendations? My dealer suggested cleaning barrel after every shot.. seems excessive, but if that is the way it has to be.. Thoughts? thanks!
Click to expand...
Just shoot it!! I can't speak for the 338, that's a whole different beast from anything I've experienced, but I've been told by lots of people to just start shooting it and clean when accuracy falls off.

I originally thought that my 308 wasn't shooting well with 175 FGMM, but after a session out in the desert today getting "schooled" on technique with Russ, I was printing ragged bug-holed 5 shot groups! I did no barrel break-in procedure and she's shooting the lights out!

But if its gonna make you feel better knowing that you broke the barrel in, then do that. 90% of shooting is mental, so if you think that down the road you'll be wondering if it'd shot better if you had broken it in - then go that route...

From all my research, I've found that there's no definite answer on this topic - some say do and some say don't. If you poke around like I did, you'll probably find a pretty even split 50/50 opinion on barrel break in.

As I tell my wife all the time, "you must do what truth requires". Is that vague enough for ya?! :)
 
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Hi All. I am really interested in buying an SRS A1. I want to use it to retire my 700p 308 and my 110ba in 338lm. Before I buy I would like to get behind one so I guess I have 2 questions. Where is the best place to buy in orange or riverside county Ca and where can I get behind one before I put the money down? Thanks for the help.

Dom
 
Are you guy's at DTA still planning on putting the HTI .50 through it's paces at ELR ranges. I really like what you did with the HTI in .375 Cheytac and was hoping now that the snows gone to see a similar shoot with the .50?
 
Falcon9 said:
Hi All. I am really interested in buying an SRS A1. I want to use it to retire my 700p 308 and my 110ba in 338lm. Before I buy I would like to get behind one so I guess I have 2 questions. Where is the best place to buy in orange or riverside county Ca and where can I get behind one before I put the money down? Thanks for the help.

Dom
Click to expand...

I had same issues here in Phoenix. Had never even seen a DTA in person, much less held one or fired one, but eventually found someone here and we met at the range. I got to not only hold it, but fire it at 100 & 200 yds. It felt great with perfect balance in 22" 308. Ordered the DTA SRS A1 in 308 a few days later around March 1st. Still waiting for it along with the 338 conversion. Feels like no other precision rifle I have handled. Scope and suppressor on order also. Seems like in the present environment it takes about one year to put a new rifle together.

For barrel break in, I have always cleaned the bore after each shot for about 5 shots and then after each 3-5 shots for the next 20-30 rounds. After that only clean after 200-300 rounds or when accuracy starts to fade. With this procedure all my guns can be cleaned with 5-7 patches of BoreTech Eliminator followed by a single patch with a few drops of Kroil. Then swab the chamber with a 20 gauge mop and lightly grease the bolt. Also clean the chamber and grease the bolt several times between the barrel cleanings. Rifles all continue to shoot 1 MOA or less after thousands of rounds. May or may not be necessary, but why change something that has worked so well for me????
 
Troutfarm said:
Happy Day! Just picked her up today. Heading out in the AM to Break her in.

Question on barrel break-in.. DTA mentions nothing in their documentation on procedure. I have a 22" .308, and a 26" .338. Just did a light cleaning on everything and I think she is good to go, but I want to make sure I do things right at the range. Any Recommendations? My dealer suggested cleaning barrel after every shot.. seems excessive, but if that is the way it has to be.. Thoughts? thanks!
View attachment 12657
Click to expand...

As others noted there is a lot of arguments on this one....I cleaned my 338LM barrel after our first firing session....about 65rds and then cleaned it when we got back from going out west to shoot. That averaged about 400-500rds per shoot. I've not had any issues with copper fouling or accuracy dropping off with this barrel or any other I've shot from new. The barrel has over 1000rds through it now and still shoots very well. So does the 6.5X47, 338BR and 12.7X48 using the same procedure. Use the procedure that makes you the happiest and keeps your confidence up. No one has yet proved that any particular procedure works any better than any other. Guys have good or bad results with whatever method they use....I've done great with mine and not wasted time or money on tons of patches and snake-oil solvent.
Frank
 
biffj said:
As others noted there is a lot of arguments on this one....I cleaned my 338LM barrel after our first firing session....about 65rds and then cleaned it when we got back from going out west to shoot. That averaged about 400-500rds per shoot. I've not had any issues with copper fouling or accuracy dropping off with this barrel or any other I've shot from new. The barrel has over 1000rds through it now and still shoots very well. So does the 6.5X47, 338BR and 12.7X48 using the same procedure. Use the procedure that makes you the happiest and keeps your confidence up. No one has yet proved that any particular procedure works any better than any other. Guys have good or bad results with whatever method they use....I've done great with mine and not wasted time or money on tons of patches and snake-oil solvent.
Frank
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Wow Heman. 400-500 rounds of 338 every time you shoot? That can't be cheap! lol
 
My A1 chassis doesn't have the mono pod, how easy is it to install? Do I have to send the whole rifle to DTA or can I just send the skins?
 
mikeltee said:
Wow Heman. 400-500 rounds of 338 every time you shoot? That can't be cheap! lol
Click to expand...

I load all my own so its not as expensive as buying factory. I shoot with the suppressor almost always so no shoulder issues. Recoil is pretty light with the can. I don't get to go out west to shoot often so when we do head out to wyoming or colorado its worth the trip. I load a lot and bring back little but empty brass. The 20mm Solothurn is the one thats tough....550 grains of WC872 and a 1550 grain pulled 20mm vulcan projo at 3200fps. I've only ever taken 50rds to the shoot and seldom bring back more than 3 or 4 unfired. Thats a few pounds of powder.....the machineguns all shoot surplus and I bought it when it was cheap.
Hope you're getting to shoot your DT. I've run a few rounds of 6.5 X 47 through mine but have been too busy to shoot much else.

Frank
 
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