Can you confirm 18.5" barrels for some of us in certain states like CA which require minimum 30" total length???
- Thread starter patches
- Start date
Can you confirm 18.5" barrels for some of us in certain states like CA which require minimum 30" total length???
What are your thoughts on the HTI system?
Here's the rub for me—every time I run the numbers for a decked out HTI system (.50BMG + .375CT + S&B + reloading equipment + other accoutrements) I find myself close to a Ma Deuce plate + parts kit (I never should have sold mine). I am aware that the roles of each of these are not exactly the same, but, in my assessment, there is enough overlap as to raise the question.
Last edited:
My thoughts, it's just a plus sized SRS. One feature I find better is the way the but pad swings out of place, it's a quick and easy way to pull the bolt. The trigger is a knock out just like my SRS. Weight is very manageable considering the capability of the platform. The mag release is different than the SRS, not better or worse, just different.
I kind of bucked the trend with the 50bmg over the 375, but when I ran the numbers on factory Hornady 750gr ammo compared to the 375 ammo, the 750gr had more range before hitting subsonic than the factory 375 load from DTM. Plus the payload with its sizable splash down range, and the fact that 50 powder, primers, brass, and projectiles are readily available. I'm a bit disappointed that I lost the only range with in a couple hours drive that had the space to stretch it out. My local 500 yards just isn't going to cut it.
I kind of bucked the trend with the 50bmg over the 375, but when I ran the numbers on factory Hornady 750gr ammo compared to the 375 ammo, the 750gr had more range before hitting subsonic than the factory 375 load from DTM. Plus the payload with its sizable splash down range, and the fact that 50 powder, primers, brass, and projectiles are readily available. I'm a bit disappointed that I lost the only range with in a couple hours drive that had the space to stretch it out. My local 500 yards just isn't going to cut it.
Thanks for your thoughtful reply. Enticing.
That's the beauty of the HTI; you can have your cake and eat it too!
I prefer 375CT. Far less recoil and muzzle blast. Lighter. Far less powder. Flatter trajectory. Uber-nice ammo readily available from DTM. Etc.
We sell 375CT over 50BMG 5:1. Maybe that's just because I sell it so hard over the 50?
I have to agree with you 100% Orkan! I think the 375CT is better for ELR than the good Ol' 50BMG. This being said, the 50BMG takes the cake when it comes down to anti-materiel sniping
Yup, carrying payload makes it way more effective at stopping machines.
If I had to choose again I'd still go with the 50bmg, it does everything the 375ct does plus delivers more energy. All at the cost of more recoil, which is a non issue for us barrel chested meat eating types. Not to mention my local sporting goods stores stock match grade and surplus ammo.
I understand how you feel. Years ago, I felt the same way myself. I've found it's not as simple as that.
Good friend of mine is a "barrel chested meat eating type," just like me. Him being a badass, didn't stop the 50bmg recoil from causing several shoulder surgeries, and mildly detaching his retina. He finally got the clue that big recoil isn't "manly" when he was faced with nearly going blind in one eye. He always told me the same thing about 50bmg, in that it will do all the 375CT does "if you are man enough to handle the recoil." Perhaps, but the penalties are severe, and it is usually much more difficult to get a 50bmg to produce the accuracy that is pretty easy to achieve in most 375CT's.
I'm not downplaying your decision. It's clear you've thought the matter through. I just don't want others reading this to think it's 6 of one and half dozen of the other... because it isn't.
Last edited:
I had my DT covert rifle drawn up with Hello Kitty. What do you guys think? Going to make a patch out of it. 
You will have a big market in Japan
I loved my SRS until I tried to convert it to the covert and add the monopod......
Looks like I may need new skins and freakin "upper"...!!! Bought my rifle back in 2012 with a SRSand now DTA must have completely new design because it won't work. The "covert" kit I just received as well did NOT work either!! The Foreend threads onto a coupler that itself can thread into the upper and adjusted. My rifle was fab'd with threaded mount integrated.......pisses me off that
1) They don't ask you what variant you have or your serial number before you order; CRITICAL since they've redesigned more than once!!
2) Hey DTA, is it too difficult for you guys to create some instructions/directions on your parts?!? Instead of making your customers waste time to figure if retrofitting accessories will or will not work!!!
Looks like I may need new skins and freakin "upper"...!!! Bought my rifle back in 2012 with a SRSand now DTA must have completely new design because it won't work. The "covert" kit I just received as well did NOT work either!! The Foreend threads onto a coupler that itself can thread into the upper and adjusted. My rifle was fab'd with threaded mount integrated.......pisses me off that
1) They don't ask you what variant you have or your serial number before you order; CRITICAL since they've redesigned more than once!!
2) Hey DTA, is it too difficult for you guys to create some instructions/directions on your parts?!? Instead of making your customers waste time to figure if retrofitting accessories will or will not work!!!
Is your serial lower than 1060? I worked on a rifle in that serial range and it had the front of the receiver threaded to take the handguard. There was no "coupler" on it and thats a pretty low number. He had the monopod installed by the factory when he bought it. Mine is in the 1370 range and I swapped out the handguard with no issues. My receiver was pre threaded for the monopod as well and I just swapped skins and screwed the monopod in. Post some pics of your setup if you would and some idea of your serial range. Might be able to help you out.
Frank
I'm gonna bite.
I've been shooting 50's for over 15 years and have fired many thousand rounds, through at least 10 different 50 cal rifles. Just fired 150 rounds last weekend at a match in PA.
I know hundreds of 50 cal shooters and never have had one of them with a detached retina, or shoulder surgeries from firing a 50 cal rifle.
I've had more problems with lightweight African safari rifles and Magnum 3-1/2" 12 gauge shotguns.
If your stupid enough to shoot any firearm thats gonna kick your ass every time you pull the trigger, your an idiot and deserve the consequences for being an idiot.
I've never fired an HTI 50bmg, but after viewing videos of shooters firing one, I think it look's very manageable.
I don't think they would sell the rifle if it might detach a retina, or cause shoulder injury after firing it.
Last edited:
Thanks to Abq-Defense for posting the photos of your conversion of Gen II skins for the A1 buttpad. Got my A1 buttpad in the mail today, and spent some time this evening with the Dremel & several different diamond bits cutting out the slot for the new buttpad's hook. Kinda awkward getting into the corners of the slot, but patience was rewarded with a good, snug fit for the hook.
Really looking forward to getting the SRS down to the range and getting some trigger time behind the new buttpad, especially with the 284 Win bbl installed.
Really looking forward to getting the SRS down to the range and getting some trigger time behind the new buttpad, especially with the 284 Win bbl installed.
Attachments
Last edited:
Fair enough. 375CT and 50BMG have nearly equal trajectories at 2000yds with loads intended for ELR.
Which would you say has more recoil? How much more?
Which brass is easiest to work with?
Which primers are easier to work with?
Which burns more powder? How much more?
Pearce. That is the sleeve stop. You have it upside down. You only want to thread it in enough to engage the sleeve on the bolt. You DO NOT want it to come in contact with the bolt body itself. Once you figure out the right depth, put a drop of blue loctite on there and you will be golden.
Russ
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Russ
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You're very welcome.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The HTI with the factory brake is brutal in my opinion. After 30 rounds you have to want to pull the trigger.... I can belly up to an AR50 and shoot it all day long. But these are 2 completely different purpose built guns. If you have to hike to your shooting position and don't need but a couple shots, the light weight HTI is perfect+ it can fit in a large backpack! If you shoot a lot from the firing line the heavy guns with excellent brakes such as the AR50 are hard to beat. But being able to switch the Desert Tech to another caliber in a minute really shines for me. My 2 cents
2nd to sharvest's opinion. Everytime you pull the (long, heavy, terrible trigger) on the M82 it seems like someone shoves you in the shoulder and then kicks dirt in your face. When you press the (light, crisp, delightful) trigger on the HTI it feels like someone punching you in the shoulder, and then kicking dirt in your face. If you have to hump one or the other farther than from parking lot to range, the HTI is your friend. If you want to deliver accurate fire at distance at something smaller than a truck sized target, the HTI is your friend. Personally, I wish I would have bought more .375 ammo and a S&B instead of the .50 conversion. But don't cry for me, I'll be all right. Meanwhile I'll try to eat more meat and increase my chest girth all while embracing the suck!
I'm curious what scopes you guys are running that have multiple conversions. I kind of find it a pain to re adjust my zero and even then I never truly trust it to be close enough to go to a match or even go long range hunting. I'd imagine the premier and march would kick ass with their zero stop design
Premier for the time being, until the Tangent Theta's arrive.
Easiest zeroing system you will find.
Give me a call if you want to talk about one in detail! We'll have the first TT's to hit the ground.
Ive got a S&B PM2 5-25. Im in the buy once cry once camp.
Premier for the time being, until the Tangent Theta's arrive.
Easiest zeroing system you will find.
Give me a call if you want to talk about one in detail! We'll have the first TT's to hit the ground.
1. When will the TT's actually be hitting the ground, date please?
2. Have you personally shot the HTI .50 BMG and what is your opinion of the recoil? Worse than a 7 lb. .300 win mag without a brake? I'm thinking about buying one is why I'm asking. Just always wanted a .50 and I can always get the .375 conversion for it later if I'm too much of a pussy.
I have a steiner msr on mine now. While I think the scope is awesome I'd imagine there's gotta be better zero stop systems out there for the srs switch barrel capability. How is the s&b zero stop? One of the only scopes I've only seen and never shot or played with really
Keep in mind this is my theory of use, or at least how I think it's going to work for me. I currently run a .308 conversion but want a 300WM conversion when money allows. My thought is to zero with the flattest shooting round (300 Win.) then set the zero stop. Then re-zero at the same range with the .308 and mark the new zero on the turret. My thinking is if I zero with the flattest shooting cartridge first I'll always be dialing up and can always mark the next zero on the turret. Like I said this is just a theory as I don't have my second conversion yet.
Edit: I'm running a Bushnell XRS
Edit: I'm running a Bushnell XRS
Jdboy, that's exactly how the vast majority of us do it and that's how it was intended to be done.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Zip,
This comes up every few months. There is no need to re-zero your scope when you change barrels/calibers. Most modern calculators allow you to put in an adjusted zero setting.
1) Zero the scope for your main barrel.
2) Put in the next barrel, aim at the same point. Note how far it is off from the previous caliber (i.e. +1 MOA High, and +2 MOA left).
3) Put this info in your log book and put it in your calculator for that barrel.
4) You can do this for multiple barrels and never have to re-zero the gun. I typically swap barrels a couple times each range session, and haven't re-zero'd my scope in months. Even then, when I noticed my zero was off by 1/2 MOA, I just put in my main barrel and re-zero'd it. I didn't have to figure out the offsets for the other calibers again.
Great advice guys thanks. I was under the impression different caliber barrels could be all over the place rather than a .300 always being flattest. That's good news for me as I have a .300 barrel right now.
The 300WM being the flattest was just an example with my desired setup, 300WM and .308 Win. I haven't ran the ballistics of the other rounds offered for the SRS platform so I can't say the 300WM is the flattest cartridge available for it.
Edit: Even if the other cartridges have elevation/windage adjustments, once they're zeroed and marked on the turrets this will remain constant. The SRS platform is a very repeatable one when the barrels are torqued to a specified value.
And if you ran multiple barrels of different calibers you could always use different colored dots on the scope turrets (or a cheat tape around the turret) and label the color chart on your stock for future reference. Hope this helps!
Last edited:
Understood. I just meant I thought comparing any two calibers one round could be high low left right depending on how it was chambered and machined and fits into the chassis. Guess I'll find out when I buy a .260 or .308 conversion
I've got six conversions and none are more than 1 mil offset in either direction. I just zero the scope to the most common barrel I shoot and note the offsets when I change. Noting them in my log book, it's easy to refer back and just add the offset whenever I calculate a solution.
I just got off the phone with Armament, and they are quite confident that the scopes will be delivered to me in July-early august. This is about a month beyond what was originally slated for the delivery when they predicted the timeline back in January. Not bad, considering the specifics at play.
I have personally shot the HTI in 50BMG quite a lot. Comparing 300wm recoil to a 50bmg recoil is not really realistic, as the type of recoil impulse on each is completely different, as is the concussion and other factors. A 25lb 50BMG is going to kick. Pure and simple. That said, as far as 50's go, the HTI can be managed as well as anything with proper form.
Bottom line: The HTI is the ONLY bolt-action big-bore rifle platform that I would even consider. Having owned an AR50, an M99, a Windrunner, and various other large-platform rifles over the years... I can firmly state that none even come close to the versatility and fit/finish of the DTA HTI. You may get it, and find you don't like 50bmg... but you will not get it and find that you don't like the HTI.
Give me a call anytime if you want to talk specifics about one, or hear me try to describe the recoil impulse.
It's certainly one way.
Having an externally-adjustable tool-less zero stop negates the need for doing it this way. Then, I don't need to run offsets in my charts, or my ballistic comp. It also allows me to build an instinctive chart in my head, which tracks with the real world and isn't dependent upon other barrel's zeros.
If you setup as suggested with using offsets, and get another barrel that shoots lower than your base zero, then all your offsets would need to change, or you'll need to come down for some barrels, and up for others.
The versatility of the platform sure offers versatile ways to use it. Isn't like either way is wrong or right, but I surely know which way I like better... having done both.
Soooooo..... Is there a time line via serial numbers on the DTA's that is available for us to help figure out part compatiblity? From one gun to the next? To help us guys out trying to buy take off parts from someone else's gun. The only real clear break that the most of us have figured out is Gen 1 vrs Gen 2. And come to think of it I have never seen that serial number brake either.... Just wondering....
The only parts I know of that have any issues at all for compatibility are the monopods and that is a very simple check for the owner, pull the skins and see if you have a threaded receiver. Barrels are gen 1 or gen 2. Mags are universal and most of the other parts are interchangeable. Your rifle is the only one I've heard of that had something odd on the handguard mounting setup. Best bet for you is to call them up and talk to customer service about issues you've had. Someone there should be able to help you. The rest of us with early guns have figured out what works or doesn't for ours and that is a very small list....
As for brakes they aren't numbered and should fit any of the barrels. If you're talking about a break in the serial number series where changes were made I don't know of any particular number where things changed. There was a change in numbering where the prefix changed but I don't know what the last DTA000XXXX stopped and the next series started.
Hope that helps
Frank
You're not the only one! I've ask about serial breaks since I began reading on this thread. Working for Deere you begin to think serial breaks are the norm.
It should be the norm... as it's a very efficient way of tracking revisions!
I just picked up a dta package from the px here and am looking for a good rear bag for accurate bench shooting. It has the monopod but I have a hard time keeping it rock steady. I have a sr8t laced bag I loved for my trg but seems a bit big for the srs. Also have a rabbit ear protektor that is about 3 1/2" to bottom of ears, which is too tall. The str8t bag is about the right height laying flat but is 7"x9" takes up too much space with the magazine sitting there. Rifle has an atlas in front and looks like it needs around 2 - 2 1/2" of bag under the rear. Would like a heavy fill for bench/range use. What are you guys using? Thanks for the help.
For belted rounds i hear people get "accurtized" guns headpaced at the neck and basically dont use the belt. I do not know very much about belted guns other than i tend to stay away since they are hard on brass. Headspacing to the neck seems like it may solve that issue. Does anybody here know if DTA 300wm conversions are headspaced this way?
Not sure the dimensions but the 10 dollar bag from Midway works awesome for me and my DTA
^^^Tab really good for placing between monopod and hard surface. Works great with my SRS and HTI.
Tab rear
AMF
AMF
I've been using the 3 below--haven't quite settled on one yet.
Crosstac rear bag (under monopod). I like that it is grippy and I can add/remove beads easily.
Red tac half pint (under monopod).
FTW rear bag (behind magazine).
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Crosstac rear bag (under monopod). I like that it is grippy and I can add/remove beads easily.
Red tac half pint (under monopod).
FTW rear bag (behind magazine).
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Has anyone tried to put a more effective brake on the HTI .50?
