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Oryx chassis

kjeff91

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 3, 2018
143
38
Colorado Springs, Colorado
I'm looking at getting an Oryx for a RAP, Savage or R700 and curious how people are liking the chassis so far. I like that it's all one unit but I can still swap out the pistol grip if I want something else. Any major cons to it?
 
No front flush cup for a QD sling. I bought a couple, but not exactly sure where I could drill deep enough to add one.

The other option is drill and tap and mill out the plastic to mount an M Lok style and red loctite the screws so it doesn't work loose.

This is of course you plan on carrying it slung.
 
Here is the link to the Oryx chassis thread.

 
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I've got a 6.5 Creedmoor S/S RAP in an Oryx with a Vortex PST II. Shoots sub MOA with good ammo and MOA with American Gunner. It's shot as well as 1 1/2" @ 200 with 140gr Hornady ELD match. I can hit a 10" plate at 500 with such regularity it's almost boring.

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I've got a 6.5 Creedmoor S/S RAP in an Oryx with a Vortex PST II. Shoots sub MOA with good ammo and MOA with American Gunner. It's shot as well as 1 1/2" @ 200 with 140gr Hornady ELD match. I can hit a 10" plate at 500 with such regularity it's almost boring.

View attachment 7240938

That looks amazing! I'm highly considering the RAP in 6.5 myself. How do you like the barrel profile? Does it heat up too quickly? Anything you don't like about the RAP? Also considering a Savage 10.
 
That looks amazing! I'm highly considering the RAP in 6.5 myself. How do you like the barrel profile? Does it heat up too quickly? Anything you don't like about the RAP? Also considering a Savage 10.

Doesn't do too bad with heat. I can run 20 rounds in 5 shot groups pretty much as fast as I can load the mag and shoot before I start getting any real mirage off the barrel. I've shot to the point of being barely able to touch the barrel with no real change in groups.

On mine I switched out the bolt handle with the Anarchy Outdoors piece and a long dragon scale knob, then changed out the stock firing pin back with the AD Arms piece. Both changes significantly lessened the cocking effort. While I had the bolt out I sanded it with 600 grit wet/dry and some oil to remove the machining marks, the bolt runs much smoother and the zipper sound is gone.

For a $440 rifle I couldn't be happier. I intended to put it in an Oryx when I got it so I've never shot it in the factory stock. I got my PST II when they were closing out the EBR-2C reticles a while back so I have around $1,800 total in the rifle. I know that's less than most have just in their scopes, but I went as cheap as reasonably possible on a complete rifle as I think I am much better off buying cheap, using it to develop some skills by shooting the shit out of it, and upgrade later when I get to the point where the rifle is holding me back.
 
Anyone know if they’re going to make a NV hood for the chassis or way to put one on ?
 
I'm running two r700 6.5cm. One in an oryx the other in a krg x-ray. I let other people shoot them. The oryx is fine after you get it set up to fit you. It is more of a pain to swap shooters with it than the x ray. The x ray is tool less adjustable. I have witness marks on the posts so it's easy to reset the lop and cheek piece back to where I need them. If it's just you shooting your rifle, the oryx is fine.
 
And try turning the but pad upside down. That made for a better fit for me.