Gunsmithing P320 with Trijigon RMR
- Thread starter greg1147
- Start date
If you're having a slide milled for the RMR, be sure to have them mill for the recoil lugs and not just the footprint and screw holes.
If you're referring to a Sig factory "optics ready" slide, it has the Trij RMR screw holes but not the lugs for RMR, so some people advise to use an adapter plate that has the lugs built in, to reduce chances of screws shearing and optic flying off. The RMR type 2 is a very good optic.
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I have been running one for awhile on a legion
There's really no negative for normal use. The RMR is basically the standard by which all others are judged. With sales prices you can find new ones in the low $400's.
The ONLY negative, which is of course preference, is if you prefer a round and/or larger window like the SRO. For range, concealed carry, or competition, I prefer the SRO as most do. For true duty use, probably the RMR for durability.
Also... its Trijicon...with a "C".
Just showing you what I'm talking about. I'm sure you can see the same thing with Google. After I made that post I realized the RMR is probably more manageable for everyday carry. I really didn't realize until I got home how damn big the SRO is.
Ehhh it looks like a lot but my SRO carries no different than my RMR and that’s on a raised plate on a P01. This is appendix of course.
In some ways, the rounded hood actually carries a bit better as it doesn’t protrude a sharp angle.
The biggest issue I have is the grip length or magazine edge. I’m a skinny dude with skinny little hips though so naturally that makes the grip length my main issue.
Add a spacer between your claw and holster body, it'll drive the grip into you, now enjoy carrying a 20rd mag with no issue. I now do this on all of my appendix holsters, I carry with a 21rd mag and don't even consider the 17rd flush fit anymore.
You can use something as simple as a cheap washer or do something as complex as milling some billet spacer, it's up to you, but it need not be difficult at all.
I dig what your saying Gustav. I carry the glock 45 w/ RMR on the right. The shadow system with SRO(left) is my shoot steel/ range gun. Practice, dry fire and the dot will be there either way. Dosen't mater how big the glass is.
FYI: I did notice how F-ing nasty my lens on the rmr was when I took that pic.
And you don't have to take the SRO off to change the damn battery.
FYI: I did notice how F-ing nasty my lens on the rmr was when I took that pic.
And you don't have to take the SRO off to change the damn battery.
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I’m running the RMR 2 3.25moa on a full size and carry size p320 and love it. It’s the standard optics ready slide but using the C&H plate with the lugs. Flush fit with the plate and is very secure. Over 500 rounds on each setup and a lot of slide manipulating stressing the optic and nothing has come remotely loose.
I have the full stack on my Tier 1 claw and it’s still an issue. I’m sure it’s a little of how I wear the holster and that my natural resting position makes it stick out lol. I suppose that’s a posture issue though.
Not a Trijicon, but a Leupold…. My Legion+ tribute gun.
You can get Sig’s Pro slides pre-milled for pretty much any red dot you want, and are actually pretty damn good value for what you get.
You can get Sig’s Pro slides pre-milled for pretty much any red dot you want, and are actually pretty damn good value for what you get.
It's your life, live it as you wish, you want things to work better for you, leave that "full stack" on, and try what I said, it's two screws and if you want to prove it'll work without a doubt, add 1/2" and impregnate yourself with the magazine end.
But 3/32 to 3/16 should be about all you need to make any combo work. To snug a 17rd mag a single simple washer may be all that's needed.
I'm 6'1 180lbs and carry a P320 carry with a PMM twin port compensator on the end and 21rd mag, with all of that it is a huge rig, sits great in a full-size Legion holster. No issue concealing.
I also use this wedge for most of my holsters now, for what it's worth, though I have a ton of holsters so I do use others, like the Tier One's as well. These stick further out to the side, clear my knuckle better, the claws metal edge is smooth, pants waist will move on it, so I add some grip tape to fix that.
Don't be afraid to modify things to perfection, if they break, well, you needed to replace them anyway, but you're free to live as you wish. Good luck.
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If it's milled for a tight fit (as it should be for the RMR, but not most other optics) then the recoil lugs serve no purpose. If it's a fairly loose fit, as a lot of self proclaimed "experts" do it, then yeah, you'll want those lugs.
I've milled my own for a bunch of different optics, but the RMR is one of the few who's dimensions are consistent enough to mill for a close/tight fit. In fact the tolerances are good enough that the .003" difference in length (less than the thickness of a piece of notebook paper) between the older models and the newer "type 2" can be used as a distinguishing feature between them. FWIW the Holosun 507c seems to match that as well (I only have 5 of those, but they all fit correctly in my RMR slides), while others like the Deltapoint Pro are all over the place in dimensions and absolutely need to be milled with plenty of clearance and recoil lugs.
To answer the OP's question:
I milled a few of these, but went with the compact rather than full size for a carry gun. No significant difference there as far as milling goes. I didn't end up liking the 320 very much, but they take an RMR just fine.
Where'd you get the metal wing?
Just an FYI for readers- at least a few of the most experienced pistol- slide machinists have stated over the last 5-10 yrs that Holosun optics are not consistent in their dimensions. That's something one wouldn't necessarily notice unless they've done hundreds if not thousands of slides for a variety of electro optics.
My observation has been that they’ve been consistent enough to provide a tighter fit by constraining the front and rear than most places provide with recoil lug bosses.
How many slides have you milled? Or are you just repeating what someone else said?
Go ahead and re-read my post; I listen to the full time professional gun machinists when they tell people what they're seeing over the course of hundreds if not thousands of optics installs. One if not both of them have stated they want any hs optic in hand for milling and install so they can be sure the cut is precise- because in their professional full time experiences the hs dimensions were not as consistent as expected.
Now, I didn't quote your previous post in my previous because I was being a gentleman, and stated what I'd been told without calling you out, you could've simply ignored my post or even repeated yourself without quoting me- but you chose to the negative path.
In the end, people should consult the full time professionals for best results.
OK, repeating someone you think is a professional is fine to a point, but I'm not sure you've fully processed the things you've repeated because they're somewhat contradictory. Hear me out; what I'm sharing is firsthand, not repeated from somewhere else. And while I don't know what you do professionally, I have a 20+ year career in mechanical engineering design (which is what this is) and testing, with a lot of practical machining experience on and off the job, so I am a professional with relevance to this as well. Don't assume the two people you've talked to are the only ones who know about this stuff, or that they're even necessarily correct.
We agree that the best results happen when you have the slide milled for your specific optic; that's what I've always preferred to do, and I wouldn't send a slide to someone who wasn't doing it that way.
But if you're sending the optic in with the slide, it doesn't much matter whether the optics have loose tolerances over the whole range of production, right? Maybe a little bit if/when you switch optics, but you can always have the slide adjusted to fit the next one if needed. Which, with the RMR the OP asked about, it won't be needed. The tolerances of an optic matter more when you're mass producing slide cuts to fit every optic out there, not so much when you're doing one-offs fit to a specific customer's optic. And those mass produced slide cuts are always looser than a correctly fit cut; they have to be - it's not because they're done better, it's because they want to avoid returns and rework.
Beyond that, due to the way the tolerances stack up, you can achieve a much closer & tighter fit by constraining the front/rear of the optic, than with the recoil lugs. The last slide I milled, for example, ended up at the perfect fit - once the milled surface was coated, the optic (a 507c) fit the pocket perfectly with light finger pressure, and didn't fall out when held upside down, without screws. That means the slide pocket itself transmits all the recoil, and the screws are just there to keep it from falling out. With a fit like that, the optic can be removed and replaced (to change a battery if it's an RMR, or other maintenance work) without needing to re-zero. But with that tight of a constraint, using recoil lugs as well is pretty much pointless - besides not being needed, there's very little margin between too loose to make contact and interfering with the fit; it can't really be constrained by both the pocket and the lugs. In contrast though, even a fairly snug fit with recoil bosses still allows some angular wiggle of the optic, enough that re-zeroing after optic removal is generally necessary.
Speaking as a machinist and an engineer, the recoil bosses aren't a better method or a requirement at all for the RMR. What they are is something for the CNC shops to point to and claim their product is better than what came before them - something all marketing people do, but that doesn't mean it's true.
I've had, or have, slides from some of the current bigger names like Jagerworks, Primary Machine, etc as well as Suarez and a handful of others including some cheap stuff too, but I've yet to find one with recoil bosses in it (again, for an RMR) that is as tight as a properly cut slides by some of the OGs of this kind of work like Mark Housel and some other now-forgotten names. My point to the OP here is this - don't select a shop because they've sold you on their recoil bosses being better, they aren't. Select the shop that promises a tight fit to the optic that you send in - one-offs, not mass production. Custom work is better in this, if your machinist cares about his work. (And to be clear, so nobody gets the wrong idea about my motives here - I'm not interested or willing to take on work for anyone here. I don't want any work, I'm just here to share info.)
And BTW Milf Dots, no, being the passive aggressive contrarian is not being a gentleman. If you've got something to say to someone, come out and say it to their face. That's why I quoted you. We can disagree and discuss it, and even agree to disagree at the end of the day without anyone needing to be offended or acting badly, especially when we're talking about facts like this. Disagreement is not ungentlemanly, but pretending to get along while being passive aggressive is disdainful. JMHO.
You responded passive aggressively to my reasonable post that didn't even quote you or single you out at all- it simply offered a view you didn't like, and that feeling triggered you. It's my humble opinion you have some personality quirk that makes it harder for you to get along with people- and that's fine, we're all wired differently. The fact you chose to reply instead of ignore, to make it personal instead of just disagree, along with that sh**ty ratio of yours, reveals you.
Feel free to put me on your ignore list. We're done here so I won't be replying further.
Oh geez man. Can't handle discussing facts, better take your ball and go home. LOL.
Amazon, though I believe you can find them elsewhere. And I believe I've been responding off topic here, my apologies gentleman, I'll stop.
