Does anybody epoxy the rail to the action? I have thought of doing this. Is this a good idea and any pros of doing this?
Gunsmithing Picatinny Rail epoxy to action
- Thread starter dar1246
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Re: Picatinny Rail steel bed
Do it. No cons. Heat will release it. JMHO
Do it. No cons. Heat will release it. JMHO
Re: Picatinny Rail steel bed
Thanks. I would not think there would be enough heat to do that. But I think I will still do this. Best compound to do this?
Thanks. I would not think there would be enough heat to do that. But I think I will still do this. Best compound to do this?
Re: Picatinny Rail steel bed
Epoxy the base to the action? You bet.
But I also epoxy my rings to my scopes. I usually use JB Weld for these smaller applications. It's easier to mix in small amounts.
A good whack with a wooden hammer will pop the rings loose, and epoxy remover will clean them up if you ever have to take the scope out (for repair, etc...)
Epoxy the base to the action? You bet.
But I also epoxy my rings to my scopes. I usually use JB Weld for these smaller applications. It's easier to mix in small amounts.
A good whack with a wooden hammer will pop the rings loose, and epoxy remover will clean them up if you ever have to take the scope out (for repair, etc...)
Re: Picatinny Rail steel bed
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: new_guy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Epoxy the base to the action? You bet.
But I also epoxy my rings to my scopes. I usually use JB Weld for these smaller applications. It's easier to mix in small amounts.
A good whack with a wooden hammer will pop the rings loose, and epoxy remover will clean them up if you ever have to take the scope out (for repair, etc...) </div></div>
I think thats the first time Ive ever heard of that.
why not just coat your action with release agent anyway?... ya know just in case
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: new_guy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Epoxy the base to the action? You bet.
But I also epoxy my rings to my scopes. I usually use JB Weld for these smaller applications. It's easier to mix in small amounts.
A good whack with a wooden hammer will pop the rings loose, and epoxy remover will clean them up if you ever have to take the scope out (for repair, etc...) </div></div>
I think thats the first time Ive ever heard of that.
why not just coat your action with release agent anyway?... ya know just in case
Re: Picatinny Rail steel bed
If you use release agent, you loose the stiffness addition the base will add to the action, and you are again relying on only the screws to hold the base.
You will gain the stress free advantage of a bedded base.
If you use release agent, you loose the stiffness addition the base will add to the action, and you are again relying on only the screws to hold the base.
You will gain the stress free advantage of a bedded base.
Re: Picatinny Rail steel bed
I think if you smack myour scope hard enough to shear off 4 screws (even if their 6-48's from a properly bedded base) the scope not being attached anymore is gonna be a small factor anyway , i think even a nightforce or US Optics taking this kind of blow would be rendered useless.
But if you don't mind then theis no draw back i guess , may as well eliminate as many varibles as possible right
I think if you smack myour scope hard enough to shear off 4 screws (even if their 6-48's from a properly bedded base) the scope not being attached anymore is gonna be a small factor anyway , i think even a nightforce or US Optics taking this kind of blow would be rendered useless.
But if you don't mind then theis no draw back i guess , may as well eliminate as many varibles as possible right
Re: Picatinny Rail steel bed
I don't know about the scope but I will do the base. I have heard of lapping the rings. I will get some epoxy today. I have to bed a stock for the first time to. If going angle deep. Might as well jump in and try it.
I don't know about the scope but I will do the base. I have heard of lapping the rings. I will get some epoxy today. I have to bed a stock for the first time to. If going angle deep. Might as well jump in and try it.
Re: Picatinny Rail steel bed
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have to bed a stock for the first time to. If going angle deep. Might as well jump in and try it. </div></div>
If you haven't already, check out this thread...
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1255432&page=1
Good luck
John
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have to bed a stock for the first time to. If going angle deep. Might as well jump in and try it. </div></div>
If you haven't already, check out this thread...
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1255432&page=1
Good luck
John
Re: Picatinny Rail steel bed
Read that post. Very good post. That is why I was going to do the bed job on a rifle. Then thought why not do the base.
Thanks
Read that post. Very good post. That is why I was going to do the bed job on a rifle. Then thought why not do the base.
Thanks
Re: Picatinny Rail steel bed
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: crumpett</div><div class="ubbcode-body">same material as bedding the action, locate the rail with all the fasteners but only snug the rear. </div></div>
please explain why you only snug the rear. is this so you don't squeeze all the bedding material out by snugging them all.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: crumpett</div><div class="ubbcode-body">same material as bedding the action, locate the rail with all the fasteners but only snug the rear. </div></div>
please explain why you only snug the rear. is this so you don't squeeze all the bedding material out by snugging them all.
Re: Picatinny Rail steel bed
This way the epoxy cures with the rail in a stress free state.
This way the epoxy cures with the rail in a stress free state.
Re: Picatinny Rail steel bed
You snug whichever screws will not put any stress on the base, sometimes the middle 2, sometimes the front, sometimes the back.
Get a straight edge (I use the beam of my calipers) and check the base for flatness while alternately snugging screws. Use a light behind the straightedge and you can immediately see any bow in the base.
Many bases are high in the middle. You can easily snug one or more center screw(s) and flatten it out.
You snug whichever screws will not put any stress on the base, sometimes the middle 2, sometimes the front, sometimes the back.
Get a straight edge (I use the beam of my calipers) and check the base for flatness while alternately snugging screws. Use a light behind the straightedge and you can immediately see any bow in the base.
Many bases are high in the middle. You can easily snug one or more center screw(s) and flatten it out.
Re: Picatinny Rail steel bed
"You snug whichever screws will not put any stress on the base, sometimes the middle 2, sometimes the front, sometimes the back."
Exactly what I did.
In my case, with the front screws tight, the rear of the base floated above the bridge so I bedded the rear.
Pic below
http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x50/b...kinsrail002.jpg
"You snug whichever screws will not put any stress on the base, sometimes the middle 2, sometimes the front, sometimes the back."
Exactly what I did.
In my case, with the front screws tight, the rear of the base floated above the bridge so I bedded the rear.
Pic below
http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x50/b...kinsrail002.jpg
Re: Picatinny Rail epoxy to action
What about this Loctite 380 Instant Adhesive Black Max?
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=330260
Is JB weld better?
What about this Loctite 380 Instant Adhesive Black Max?
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=330260
Is JB weld better?
Re: Picatinny Rail epoxy to action
The thing is that you're not just trying to glue them together, but rather fill in the gaps between the two mounting surfaces so that when you torque down the base, it maintains it's alignment and doesn't create uneven stress on the receiver.
The Locktite sounds like more of an adhesive than a filler. I'd rather stick with a product which has been used by others, than to experiment with some other. JB is only $5.
The thing is that you're not just trying to glue them together, but rather fill in the gaps between the two mounting surfaces so that when you torque down the base, it maintains it's alignment and doesn't create uneven stress on the receiver.
The Locktite sounds like more of an adhesive than a filler. I'd rather stick with a product which has been used by others, than to experiment with some other. JB is only $5.
Re: Picatinny Rail epoxy to action
so my question is do you use the release agent or no???
so my question is do you use the release agent or no???
Re: Picatinny Rail epoxy to action
No agent. And, I don't know the compressibility factor of JB Weld. If a big gap, I like to put a metal shim or two in the space to almost fill it, then stick everything together with Devcon steel. JB Weld may be fine for that. The torquing of the screws can compress a thick bed of filled epoxy, causing distortion of the base. JMHO
No agent. And, I don't know the compressibility factor of JB Weld. If a big gap, I like to put a metal shim or two in the space to almost fill it, then stick everything together with Devcon steel. JB Weld may be fine for that. The torquing of the screws can compress a thick bed of filled epoxy, causing distortion of the base. JMHO
Re: Picatinny Rail epoxy to action
Pass the Torx fasteners and hold the glue.
Pass the Torx fasteners and hold the glue.
Re: Picatinny Rail epoxy to action
I dunno, this seems like a fix for a problem that doesn't exist.
I dunno, this seems like a fix for a problem that doesn't exist.
Re: Picatinny Rail epoxy to action
You can always use release agent on action, and then decide whether to glue the bedded rail to the action. Kind of like action glue-ins.
Why do it in two steps? Doesn't hurt anything, and gives you an easier option to practice, or check the quality of the bedding. Just remember, that you want to use filled epoxy for bedding and probly non-filled (adhesive) for the glue-in.
Hell, you can even use release agent on action AND the rail for a trial run, to refine your working methods.
You can always use release agent on action, and then decide whether to glue the bedded rail to the action. Kind of like action glue-ins.
Why do it in two steps? Doesn't hurt anything, and gives you an easier option to practice, or check the quality of the bedding. Just remember, that you want to use filled epoxy for bedding and probly non-filled (adhesive) for the glue-in.
Hell, you can even use release agent on action AND the rail for a trial run, to refine your working methods.
Re: Picatinny Rail epoxy to action
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: former naval person</div><div class="ubbcode-body">No agent. And, I don't know the compressibility factor of JB Weld. If a big gap, I like to put a metal shim or two in the space to almost fill it, then stick everything together with Devcon steel. JB Weld may be fine for that. The torquing of the screws can compress a thick bed of filled epoxy, causing distortion of the base. JMHO </div></div>
Compression strength is 12.5 ksi for JB, unbeknownst to many, JB is the strongest of the common stuff used. It is a pain to deal with for some, Devcon and MarineTex are easier to use. After using all of the above and getting JB for 1/3 of the price I stick with the JB weld.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: former naval person</div><div class="ubbcode-body">No agent. And, I don't know the compressibility factor of JB Weld. If a big gap, I like to put a metal shim or two in the space to almost fill it, then stick everything together with Devcon steel. JB Weld may be fine for that. The torquing of the screws can compress a thick bed of filled epoxy, causing distortion of the base. JMHO </div></div>
Compression strength is 12.5 ksi for JB, unbeknownst to many, JB is the strongest of the common stuff used. It is a pain to deal with for some, Devcon and MarineTex are easier to use. After using all of the above and getting JB for 1/3 of the price I stick with the JB weld.
Re: Picatinny Rail steel bed
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: former naval person</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do it. No cons. Heat will release it. JMHO </div></div>
+1.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: former naval person</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do it. No cons. Heat will release it. JMHO </div></div>
+1.
Re: Picatinny Rail steel bed
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You can always use release agent on action, and then decide whether to glue the bedded rail to the action.</div></div>
I applied a release agent (silicone grease) to the screws and the receiver. The screws came out without any problems, but when I attempted to remove the scope base, it wouldn't budge. Even after wacking it a couple times with a rubber mallet. Decided to leave it alone, and just torqued it down.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You can always use release agent on action, and then decide whether to glue the bedded rail to the action.</div></div>
I applied a release agent (silicone grease) to the screws and the receiver. The screws came out without any problems, but when I attempted to remove the scope base, it wouldn't budge. Even after wacking it a couple times with a rubber mallet. Decided to leave it alone, and just torqued it down.
