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Picking a scope base

mzvarner

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 7, 2013
510
378
Spokane, WA
Being a student, finances only allow me to have one rifle for hunting and long range shooting (Rem 700 varmint tactical [one run edition for cabelas, essentially the aac-sd in a sps stock] in 308 win). I figure I can only hunt a handful of times a year with it so I want to set it up more for long range accuracy. Currently I have a 2 piece scope base, and I am looking at converting that to a single piece base in order to add rigidity and decrease the harmonic affects. My question is for my intended use (primarily long range say out to 1k-1200 yards, then some hunting) would I benefit from a 20moa rail. Also Is it necessary to use a steel rail or can I save some weight and just do aluminum.

rife specs
-Rem 700 sps varmint tactical, 1:10 twist 308 win
-B&C medalist aluminum block stock
-Vortex Viper HS 4-16x50
-leupold rings
-2 piece warne base
-cheapo blackhawk bipod

thanks
 
get harris bipod, it will last longer and cheaper than buying cheap bipod and breaks on you

And I have the Blackhawk bipod on my 700. Purchased at WallyWorld.

Solid as a rock, never a problem. Looks and functions exactly like the Harris I have on my LR308.

Rootbrain
 
And I have the Blackhawk bipod on my 700. Purchased at WallyWorld.

Solid as a rock, never a problem. Looks and functions exactly like the Harris I have on my LR308.

Rootbrain

i did had one and it broke on me after 2 trips to the range
 
Currently I have a 2 piece scope base, and I am looking at converting that to a single piece base in order to add rigidity and decrease the harmonic affects.

I don't know who told you this but it's a load of crap. TacOps rifles use a 2 piece base set and they are guaranteed 1/4 MOA. If you have a top loader, a two piece set is actually better because it provides better access to your loading port. If you want a base set that provides you some elevation assistance, get a 2 piece nightforce 20MA set. I advise against a single piece scope base, but if you feel compelled to get one, then buy one from EGW and order their torx screws from them online because the hex head that come with the standard base strip easily.

If you want to minimize "harmonic effects", make sure your barrel is free floated.
 
I have a Weaver 20 moa base on my 300 and I have no complaints. It is a great piece, especially on a budget. Whatever you get definitely make it a 20 moa for long range.
 
I have several EGW bases, they are fair priced and I've never had a problem with one.
 
And I have the Blackhawk bipod on my 700. Purchased at WallyWorld.

Solid as a rock, never a problem. Looks and functions exactly like the Harris I have on my LR308.

Rootbrain

I have both, they may look similar but they are not. my harris is built better, it's heavier in my hand, legs are notched, it swivels to adjust cant. the blackhawk now stays on my 22LR.
 
Seekins is a great base and is what I use on my comp rifles. I will say tho that on a budget rifle I have used the weaver tactical with the recoil lug and have no complaints. I bed all my bases.
 
I have both, they may look similar but they are not. my harris is built better, it's heavier in my hand, legs are notched, it swivels to adjust cant. the blackhawk now stays on my 22LR.

Do you have the shorter one? Both of mine are 6-9". Just weighed the both, the Harris weighs less than 2 grams more. OP stated he was student on a budget so I gave him an option.

My Blackhawk bipod also swivels to adjust the cant.

I don't use a bipod on my 22lr. I use that one for shooting practice, standing, sitting, kneeling offhand. Never needed a bench rest for PD, hares or rabbits. ;)

Rootbrain
 
Casdb- those videos and reading were helpful.

Traav- After watching the videos posted above, and your input, I think I will further look into the weaver base. It sounds like it is aluminum too which will be nice to save a few...

As for the blackhawk bipod, I have only one complaint about it and that is that the legs didnt grab well to the ground. I fixed that by taking them apart, drilling out the inner circle on the bottom of the rubber foot pad, pushing a bolt through the hole, and sharpening it. Now I have a spike sticking out of the bottom of it and it works much better.