• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

AngleOfAttack

Private
Minuteman
Nov 28, 2020
22
13
Orlando, FL
Good morning all,

I have been shooting for a long time but never owned a bolt action rifle. With Christmas right behind the corner I am considering to purchase one. Primary uses - Target shooting (range)+ Deer hunting (once a year kind of thing). Max Budget for the rifle excluding the scope $2500.
Calibers I find interesting are the 6.5 creedmoore / 300 win mag / 338.
I like the looks of the Bravo chassis.Maybe I shouldn’t care about the looks but I do and I don’t particularly like the tactical looks with Mlok handguards and similar minimalistic designs. I have plenty of that with my BCM’s and MK18’s.
So far I have looked at the Bergara B14 HMR and the tikka T3X CTR both in 6.5 CM. I also looked at savage and of course the Remington 700’s
I need some help figuring out what to buy as my first rifle.
 
Go with 6.5 or 308. The magnums are expensive to shoot and more difficult to learn on. All of those are good options. I’d take a hard look at this though in that price range.
 
Good morning all,

I have been shooting for a long time but never owned a bolt action rifle. With Christmas right behind the corner I am considering to purchase one. Primary uses - Target shooting (range)+ Deer hunting (once a year kind of thing). Max Budget for the rifle excluding the scope $2500.
Calibers I find interesting are the 6.5 creedmoore / 300 win mag / 338.
I like the looks of the Bravo chassis.Maybe I shouldn’t care about the looks but I do and I don’t particularly like the tactical looks with Mlok handguards and similar minimalistic designs. I have plenty of that with my BCM’s and MK18’s.
So far I have looked at the Bergara B14 HMR and the tikka T3X CTR both in 6.5 CM. I also looked at savage and of course the Remington 700’s
I need some help figuring out what to buy as my first rifle.
If you're ok spending $2500, one of the production class PRS rifles would be quite difficult to beat. MPA PMR, GAP PPR, the ARC one, Badrock etc. You could also get a Bighorn origin or Defiance ruckus and grab a medium weight barrel, bravo stock, and a trigger for about that much too. The bravo stocks come up for decent prices in the PX quite often.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AngleOfAttack
i dont know if youre looking for production guns or more into putting one together yourself. If you're interested in putting one together yourself something like this would be how i would go about it.

Greyboe ridgeback with greyboe bottom metal - $900 (other options here as well obviously)
big horn origin - $825
trigger tech special - $150
Hunts long range pre fit barrel - $475 (other options here, this would just be my choice)
419 hellfire brake - $165

Total - $2515 probably cheaper with black friday deals right now
 
  • Like
Reactions: jcmullis2
i dont know if youre looking for production guns or more into putting one together yourself. If you're interested in putting one together yourself something like this would be how i would go about it.

Greyboe ridgeback with greyboe bottom metal - $900 (other options here as well obviously)
big horn origin - $825
trigger tech special - $150
Hunts long range pre fit barrel - $475 (other options here, this would just be my choice)
419 hellfire brake - $165

Total - $2515 probably cheaper with black friday deals right now
Great advice, but I would substitute the Grayboe with a KRG Bravo and you won't need a bottom metal, or bedding, $349.99 for the chassis, add a spigot mount $122.99, a L2 Picatinny rail in aluminum $29.99, and a QD sling plate $26.99 for the spigot mount and you're still way under the Grayboe with $529.96.
You can still add other options later if you want like an ARCA rail, weights in the form of the T-slot, or the heavy LOP spacers, ... lots more variations to customize as you learn what you want out of your bolt action rifle.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Steel head
Great advice, but I would substitute the Grayboe with a KRG Bravo and you won't need a bottom metal, or bedding, $349.99 for the chassis, add a spigot mount $122.99, a L2 Picatinny rail in aluminum $29.99, and a QD sling plate $26.99 for the spigot mount and you're still way under the Grayboe with $529.96.
You can still add other options later if you want like an ARCA rail, weights in the form of the T-slot, or the heavy LOP spacers, ... lots more variations to customize as you learn what you want out of your bolt action rifle.
I got to shoot another SH members John Hancock rifle in a bravo.
I was impressed especially considering the price.
 
Great advice, but I would substitute the Grayboe with a KRG Bravo and you won't need a bottom metal, or bedding, $349.99 for the chassis, add a spigot mount $122.99, a L2 Picatinny rail in aluminum $29.99, and a QD sling plate $26.99 for the spigot mount and you're still way under the Grayboe with $529.96.
You can still add other options later if you want like an ARCA rail, weights in the form of the T-slot, or the heavy LOP spacers, ... lots more variations to customize as you learn what you want out of your bolt action rifle.
i used to have a bravo and my only real complaints were how light it was and that it needed a barricade stop to keep the bag from getting into the mag and causing feeding issues (i was using a trued 700 action at the time)

with that being said, putting it in a bravo would make for a killer package to use until you decide to step into another chassis/stock.
 
Last edited:
The light can easily be remedied with the heavy LOP spacers, the T-slot weight, heavy barricade stop (or one of the polymer stops, if you've already got it to desired weight), ARCA rail, ... I recently saw a Bravo weighing 17 lbs. without bipod and that is with a carbon fiber barrel, with the Atlas S-CAL bipod 17.6 lbs. You can make that Bravo as light, or as heavy as you want from light weight hunting rig to super heavy competition beast.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Steel head
The light can easily be remedied with the heavy LOP spacers, the T-slot weight, heavy barricade stop (or one of the polymer stops, if you've already got it to desired weight), ARCA rail, ... I recently saw a Bravo weighing 17 lbs. without bipod and that is with a carbon fiber barrel, with the Atlas S-CAL bipod 17.6 lbs. You can make that Bravo as light, or as heavy as you want from light weight hunting rig to super heavy competition beast.
That’s a nice feature because not everyone is running a 24# rifle with a truck axle barrel.
 
My first pick would be a defiance tenacity and prefit barrel and my next choice would be a bighorn origin and prefit barrel. The tenacity is stainless and if you want black they offer them with a nitride finish. The salty humid air of Florida is highly corrosive is why I prefer the stainless over CM origin. The tenacity also has a integral recoil lug and the Origin doesn’t. You just thread the barrel on the action and tighten it up. Add a TriggerTech diamond or TT special and drop it in a KRG Bravo.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AngleOfAttack
$2500 can go a long way these days... even rifle + glass.
What’s even crazier is: you didn’t mention if you reload yet or not... if you actually wanted to stretch it, you could probably go rifle+glass+press if you were wise/careful with your budget, and cheaper rifle + loading your own ammo > just a nicer rifle by a wide margin.

I think I’m under $2500 into my first rifle AND single-stage setup: Brownells’ Howa barreled action, KRG Bravo, Harris BRMS w/ Pod-Loc, Magpul AICS mags, KRG t-slot weight, Snyder Precision buttstock weights, MDT mlok weights, $10 Gunbloke Howa 1lb trigger spring kit, Arken 6-24x50, Seekins rings = ~$1500 18lb rifle shooting .5 MOA out to 600yrds all day with good ammo (only better trigger I’ve felt besides my Howa’s w/ spring is a $300 TT Diamond btw).
Plus,
Lyman Brass Smith Ideal press and mount, Brass Smith powder measure, Frankford perfect priming tool, Frankford trimmer, wet and dry tumbling setups, dies, blocks, measuring tools, etc. well under $1000... you could even buy a “better” press and still make it work within budget (though my little Ideal press makes shockingly good/concentric/consistent ammo as is).

If ever deciding to go 700-clone down the road, keep the Bravo accessories and just get a 700-inlet Bravo for the new action and sell the Howa/Bravo to recoup $400-500...
Some people might think I’m crazy, but I’d actually choose a Bravo over a Manners every time, it’s not about the price/cost either, I’ve played around with a few T4A’s and think the Bravo is better.

But, if you already reload, the ARC Nucleus rifle is probably the best deal out there and you couldn’t build one for what they cost. None of the other “Production” rifles out there that I’ve seen come with a TT Diamond...

Or, with $2500 to play with, that should get you a Bravo and accessories plus either a Origin/Nucleus, Proof barrel and Diamond and you’d be set for a long time.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: AngleOfAttack
Great comments from all! I will have to put a lot more research as I went to a couple websites for example straight jacket armory and I have zero clue what I’m looking at and what options I should pick for the barrel. Also looks like many of you mentioned the bravo stock used on a bunch of different setups but on their website it looks like u can only mount on 700 or tikka.....can anyone explain that?
 
Great comments from all! I will have to put a lot more research as I went to a couple websites for example straight jacket armory and I have zero clue what I’m looking at and what options I should pick for the barrel. Also looks like many of you mentioned the bravo stock used on a bunch of different setups but on their website it looks like u can only mount on 700 or tikka.....can anyone explain that?
Well a 700 footprint covers 90% of custom actions made.
 
Also looks like many of you mentioned the bravo stock used on a bunch of different setups but on their website it looks like u can only mount on 700 or tikka.....can anyone explain that?

700 footprint, Tikka, and Howa 1500.
 
I'd say if you have the money there's no good reason not to go down the 700-clone path, just get one that takes prefits or is easy to get rebarreled. I'd avoid one's with proprietary stuff like non-standard threading or trigger hanger stuff that doesn't work with standard 700-clone stock/chassis inlets (Nucleus/Origin would be a good choice IMO).
Building a barreled action that way, you're compatible with everything.

For caliber choice, I wouldn't go too exotic if there's a chance you might get rid of it, 6.5 creedmoor is a good/safe choice.

The cheap way is the Howa 1500. I wouldn't mess around in the Tikka/Bergara "grey area".
 
The more I read the more confused I get (in a way).....so.....I have decided on the 6.5 Creedmoor. I definitely want the Bravo stock....I definitely want a 24” barrel and not chrome. I would like to get a silencer co brake so I can suppress it. I definitely like to have a sub moa rifle. Bergara and Tikka certify the sub moa but if I’ll build it I won’t have that guarantee. I’m also looking at building my own but the options are infinite and I’m not sure what the hell I should pick for the receiver/bolt and barrel. I’ll check the Howa 1500 and if anyone has the time to write down what exact parts I need to build a rifle that you personally own and treated you well I’ll be happy to go that route as well. Thank you all for the help so far! I have been shooting for a long time and worked on many rifles but didn’t know I was so ignorant when it comes to bolt action rifles....lol
 
The more I read the more confused I get (in a way).....so.....I have decided on the 6.5 Creedmoor. I definitely want the Bravo stock....I definitely want a 24” barrel and not chrome. I would like to get a silencer co brake so I can suppress it. I definitely like to have a sub moa rifle. Bergara and Tikka certify the sub moa but if I’ll build it I won’t have that guarantee. I’m also looking at building my own but the options are infinite and I’m not sure what the hell I should pick for the receiver/bolt and barrel. I’ll check the Howa 1500 and if anyone has the time to write down what exact parts I need to build a rifle that you personally own and treated you well I’ll be happy to go that route as well. Thank you all for the help so far! I have been shooting for a long time and worked on many rifles but didn’t know I was so ignorant when it comes to bolt action rifles....lol

The sub-MOA guarantee thing is pretty universally understood these days, you don't have anything to worry about really when attaching quality parts to other quality parts to make a barreled action with a 700-clone build.

But, the Howa's carry the sub-MOA guarantee as well, and dropping one of their barreled actions into a KRG Bravo and attaching a scope and bipod is probably the easiest way to put together a DIY rifle. Here's where I got my barreled action: https://www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=howa&psize=96
You also may be able to find one of the already assembled/complete Howa Bravo rifles out there (which were produced for a while), same thing really.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AngleOfAttack
Yup.....was looking for one....it’s crazy....seems like everything is sold out everywhere.....even a 700 barreled action....didn’t think that the demand was this high right now for bolt action rifles.
 
Yup.....was looking for one....it’s crazy....seems like everything is sold out everywhere.....even a 700 barreled action....didn’t think that the demand was this high right now for bolt action rifles.

I think the demand is high for any type of firearm these days really... with the bolt-guns there's just the added complication that these things actually get pretty specific components-wise once one gets passed the surface "off the rack rifles" that are out there...

Really the toughest thing to get a hold of these days is barrels (besides primers of course lol).

That's why I suggest you pick an action that accepts readily available prefit barrels: some are brand-specific in their barrel-threading specs, but more and more many of them have moved to the "small-shank Savage" spec because prefit barrels in that thread pitch can be had "off the shelf" from more than a few places.

Your "grocery list" for a build (besides scope/bipod/bag of course) would be:

1. find an action

2. find a barrel

3. find a chassis

I suggested the American Rifle Company Nucleus action or Big Horn Origin action earlier because they are both compatible with "small-shank Savage" prefits using a barrel nut, or/also, shouldered barrels (no barrel nut) can be found for them. Either of those actions also doesn't have any trigger-hanger issues with most chassis/stocks out there. They are also priced a little bit more friendly than some of the other actions out there as they are made in a production manner that doesn't have all kinds of various options/versions like some of the more expensive one's do. You're looking for .308 bolt face (.473") for 6.5 Creedmoor, sometimes referred to as a "standard short-action bolt face".

There are a bunch of places all over the web that carry barrels, you just have to score one, or order one and deal with the lead/wait-time. Search "prefit barrels"...

You can get a KRG Bravo at quite a few places. Find a coupon code for a reputable place and you're good.

Remember that there are a few things you'll need to complete your build that you'll use down the road: you'll need an action-wrench for whichever action you decide on, and you'll need a decent barrel-vise (you don't need the $400 "master-gunsmith's vise" but you need to expect to spend at least $60+ for one that'll get it done), lastly you'll need a set of "Go/No-Go" gauges which you'll use when attaching or changing out a barrel.

Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:
Remember that your barrel is the most critical component for accuracy. Do not skimp on your barrel or end up with a mystery-meat barrel, not knowing the manufacturer and specifications. I'm a Bartlein guy but there are plenty of great manufacturers of cut-rifled barrels.
 
Tikka T3x CTR 6.5 creed ~$1000
KRG Bravo ~$450
Yo dave Tigger spring ~$10
Sterk bolt handle ~$110

Best factory Rifle for around ~$1700 w/o scope. I have learned that glass is where I must spend the money so pick up a nice Leupold MK5. I would do this over and over again, and I have.
 
Last edited:
I know a new rifle sounds like fun, but have you considered a rifle that's already put together in the classifieds or other classifieds out there. Sometimes you can find a deal and get close to what you are looking for. I've bought rifles just for the barreled action, or action, sold off the rest and put what I wanted on it.

Just a thought.

Or... Bat TR....$1700
Trigger tech diamond $300
Barrel and install $600

Throw it in a cheap wood stock and bed it til you can buy a good stock.
 
Tikka T3x CTR 6.5 creed ~$1000
KRG Bravo ~$450
Yo dave Tigger spring ~$10
Sterk bolt handle ~$110

Best factory Rifle for around ~$1700 w/o scope. I have learned that glass is where I must spend the money so pick up a nice Leupold MK5. I would do this over and over again, and I have.

Do this.

Any T3X will do. Drop it in a KRG. Rebarrel. Shoot. Repeat.