I'm a new guy, been lurking for awhile and finally joined. I will be picking up a new Remington 700 SPS Tactical AAC-SD in .308 from a local gun store. This is my first bolt action rifle and with some of the comments I've read about Remington and inconsistent quality I would like some pointers on what to check and look for. Is there anything apparent that I should be looking for when examining it at the store? I won't have a chance to shoot it for a month or so due to travel for work. Thanks in advance for any comments and guidance. I appreciate any input.
- Thread starter CobraBG
- Start date
There's nothing to pin point right now. It'll either shoot well or not or anything in between. It's a high production stock rifle which is a crap shoot.
Thanks for the reply. I figured it would come down to luck of the draw. I was just hoping there might be something obvious to look for. With all of my other interests and commitments this is what I can afford and the price was right. Hopefully it will be a good one... any other input?
You can read on the internet about bigfoot, but that doesnt mean its true. Take what you read about Remington inconstancy's with a huge grain of salt. Your new rifle will out shoot you (not being a ass, its just fact) for a long time.
What about buying used from somebody moving up. Find something with a relatively low round count. It might already have the stock you might want to change to, DBM, scope base included. Have the seller prove it's accuracy. Use what you might save for a better optic.
I took the plunge earlier this month with a Rem 700 VTR in .308; I was chiefly debating between the SPS Tactical and AAC-SD when I ran into this at the local shop. I was a bit worried, as I wasn't able to find too much info out there on the web. But, in my hands, it felt much better than the SPS Tactical next to it on the rack.
I did a lot of research on 700's and did the Savage vs. Remington comparison. It seems that for every bad apple, there's a lot more good ones. And, this same risk seems to be present with any mass-produced product.
Then again, I'm a huge newbie when it comes to precision rifles, so I may have no idea what I'm talking about!
Hope this helps!
I did a lot of research on 700's and did the Savage vs. Remington comparison. It seems that for every bad apple, there's a lot more good ones. And, this same risk seems to be present with any mass-produced product.
Then again, I'm a huge newbie when it comes to precision rifles, so I may have no idea what I'm talking about!
Hope this helps!
A huge grain of salt... good point. I'm sure it will out shoot me, my only rifle experience is with AR's a 10/22 or a Model 94 and never past 300 yds.
I have been looking for the right used rifle and have not found what I want at the right price. This 700 is at a good price and I decided I was tired of waiting.
I am also a huge newbie, just trying to make good choices.
Thanks to all for the feedback. Any other comments?
Not that this would define how accurate it will be (or not) but some things to check with the AAC-SD to prevent future headaches (i.e. expenses) is to check the crown for dings and scratches. Many of these rifles came with dinged crowns from factory (mine did; haven't fixed it yet since it still not a problem but will cost me around 50$ to get it redone). Another thing is to check for rust inside the barrel. Bring a small flashlight and look at the bore for possible rust. Also look inside the action. These aac's attract rust very easily.
Thanks for your comments. I was planning to check the crown. A friend had suggested that I run my finger nail around the crown to feel for rough spots and to also check it with a magnifying glass. The rust is something I had not considered though. I would not have expected a new rifle to have rust in the barrel or on the action. Are these rifles prone to rust more than others?
I'm a huge advocate for the Tikka T3. If I had it to do over again it's certainly the rifle I would've bought. The only Remington I promote is the 5R and that's only because I own one. It's not just me, the general consensus amongst other 5R owners is that they're pretty solid. I don't know if you're looking to spend $1000-1200 on the rifle. The stocks that come with the lower end 700's like the SPS and AAC are garbage and need immediate replacing as well as the trigger. However, the Tikka comes with a tolerable stock, nice trigger, smooth action, DBM, and side bolt release. For $600 it can't be beat. And they are known shooters.
My experience with other rifle finishes is limited but to give you an example, a friend and I had to deal with a pretty nasty windstorm on our first day of deer season this year. First thing I did when I got home was to dis-assemble and clean my AAC. To my surprise, rust was already building in the bolt and inside the action, even though it was well oiled that morning. All my friend did with his blued rifle was sit it in front of the fireplace for a while and then store it (no rust issues). It cleaned out but surely was a pain in the butt (got me some corrosionX too to see if it helps).
If you're getting the AAC with the plans of putting a brake on it, I would go with the varmint model and have a good smith cut, crown and thread the muzzle. The benefits of going this route are:
You decide what barrel length
Threads and crown will be as good as you can get (Remington has some issues with threading and crowning)
Depending on the brake, it will need to be timed. Your smith can do this when doing the other work.
In the end, this will cost a little more but its a better way to go.
You decide what barrel length
Threads and crown will be as good as you can get (Remington has some issues with threading and crowning)
Depending on the brake, it will need to be timed. Your smith can do this when doing the other work.
In the end, this will cost a little more but its a better way to go.
Eventually the crowns on all rifles get "dinged" or even wear. I solved the problem for me by just buying an 11 degree crown "Reamer" (cutter) from Brownells. With the proper pilot installed you can either totally recrown a rifle or just touch up the crown as the edge wears.
I run my crowns with a SHARP edge where he crown joins the rifling and bore. After 4-5 shots I can see 5 perfect little "feathers" at the end of the rifling (I shoot 5-R barrels) with a nice even "shadow" of soot at the rest of the bore where the gases expand uniformly from the crown. Even a crown added by a well known barrel maker was "crooked". Showed up drastically after the first light cut with the piloted "reamer".
For less than $100 I have new crowns whenever I want or need. Results are drastic on target as well. BTW, I hate the little chamfer that most gunsmiths add to their crowns at the end of he rifling. Some will use a 45 degree reamer and others a ball shaped lapping tool Almost all I've seen are uneven, especially the factory jobs.
I would look into A Rem 700P police model I have one its a great shooter. It come with a great stock and good 40Xtrigger 26 inch barrel. Great starter rifle. They are 1000.00 1200.00 IMO
Lots of good information. It has given me some more to think about, thanks everyone. I have already placed a deposit on the 700 and the price is only $619. I got a call that it's in and ready for pick up. I'm not sure if I will be changing my mind or not.
Hey Deadshot2, can you tell me more about how you are using the crown "reamer" you mentioned? I assume that you need to remove the barrel and chuck it up in a lathe to touch up the crown correctly. Is that true? I do not have a lathe though a friends machine shop might be accessible. Do you do anything to put a protective coating on the fresh metal when you are done?
Regarding potential rust, I have used parkerized finishes on some other weapons and they were kept on a boat used in salt water. The parkerized finish has held up extremely well. I know others have used cerakote with good success though I have not tried that. If the rust issue is because of a cheap finish would it make sense to have the barrel and bolt striped and refinished? My plan for this rifle is to have something dependable that I can sling on my back and take in the woods as well as enjoy shooting from the bench at the range. I do plan to install a brake and I already have a B&C model 1000 (M40) stock that I got from a friend.
Thanks again for the replies.
Hey Deadshot2, can you tell me more about how you are using the crown "reamer" you mentioned? I assume that you need to remove the barrel and chuck it up in a lathe to touch up the crown correctly. Is that true? I do not have a lathe though a friends machine shop might be accessible. Do you do anything to put a protective coating on the fresh metal when you are done?
Regarding potential rust, I have used parkerized finishes on some other weapons and they were kept on a boat used in salt water. The parkerized finish has held up extremely well. I know others have used cerakote with good success though I have not tried that. If the rust issue is because of a cheap finish would it make sense to have the barrel and bolt striped and refinished? My plan for this rifle is to have something dependable that I can sling on my back and take in the woods as well as enjoy shooting from the bench at the range. I do plan to install a brake and I already have a B&C model 1000 (M40) stock that I got from a friend.
Thanks again for the replies.
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