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Picking up Savage 110 FCP in 338 Lapua

A

ahhshoot

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 25, 2013
470
38
#1
Have you shot one? Own one? What do you use it for? Any tips or advice?

Wasn't planning on going for this caliber, let's all be realistic - it's a novelty.

But, I found that I could have one for a reasonable price and I have been happy with Savages before. It's not top notch machining and materials-but for the price I have always found them to be reliable, durable and extremely accurate right out of the box.

Now, I'm all giddy with excitement about this gun. It's 10 lbs with a 26" barrel, so I'm going to use it for hunting as well as ELR. I will be handloading because apparently this gun is chambered in $5 bills if you don't, so any bullet advice or likewise is appreciated (gun has a 1:9 twist rate).

Before everyone says what I know will be said, I know this is overkill for deer. Frankly, I don't really care about overkill as long as it's not 'underkill.' I have been using a .260, .308 and 7MM for years and hunting with the .338 will merely be a new twist on an old experience, I'm well aware that shot placement is the most important factor for a clean kill and have never had anything other than one shot one kill regardless of caliber (except for that one rabbit that wouldn't die with a .22 lr lol)

I will be taking this gun out to 1200 yards or so, hopefully more if I can find any property that will allow it.
 
#2
try the Berger 300grn OTM, they seem to fly straight.
Also if you want something a little lighter, give the Hornday 285grn match or new Amax a try.
You could also go with the 250-300 Lapua's also.

I've only shot one deer with the 338 and it's not pretty. They don't go anywhere...

xdeano
 
#3
ahhshoot, have you read the thread on Kaboom at Manatee? I've owned standard magnums, ultra mags, and super mags. If I was to go big mag again it would be a .338 Edge off of the .300 Ultra case, and I'd build it on a Savage action. Most of the rifles I shoot are built on Savage actions. I have 0 handleing experience with the .338 L. Savage, but have seen similar sticky issues with chambering rounds. The mag novelty wore off long ago for me, but if it's getting the best of you, then by all means get it.
 
#4
DGD6MM said:
ahhshoot, have you read the thread on Kaboom at Manatee? I've owned standard magnums, ultra mags, and super mags. If I was to go big mag again it would be a .338 Edge off of the .300 Ultra case, and I'd build it on a Savage action. Most of the rifles I shoot are built on Savage actions. I have 0 handleing experience with the .338 L. Savage, but have seen similar sticky issues with chambering rounds. The mag novelty wore off long ago for me, but if it's getting the best of you, then by all means get it.
Click to expand...

I have not, but I will definitely check it out. Thanks for the advice, I am just looking for a novelty gun and was impressed with the price for this caliber of rifle. Hopefully Savage has worked out those issues you speak of, this one is a new 2014 model so maybe the kinks are gone? I will definitely let everyone know how it shoots after the first range day.

EDIT: I just read the Kaboom at Manatee thread. Wow, all I can say is I'm glad there's not an indication it was a fault of the rifle's. I will be starting off with the cheap S&B 338 round and then using that brass to reload, I hope to not have the stuck case issue. Savage is known for making their chambers below SAAMI spec for peak accuracy, this was admitted to me by them and I suppose there may be some side effects to that.

That thread is a wake up call for me. We go through the motions of shooting and one honest mistake could cost a life. And it will probably re-iterate the need for safety glasses during future range trips. It would be pretty easy to forget something like that, I feel for the guy.
 
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#5
Mine shoots 300gr Berger OTM, Lapua brass, H-1000, loaded at mag length sub moa. I've shot out to 1500yds and it works well, 1000yds is pretty easy with it.

Overkill, mehh...

 
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#6
Wyfox said:
Mine shoots 300gr Berger OTM, Lapua brass, H-1000, loaded at mag length sub moa. I've shot out to 1500yds and it works well, 1000yds is pretty easy with it.
Click to expand...


Wyfox,

For times sake and a point of reference for my handloads, would you mind sharing your recipe with me? COAL, powder charge, primer, etc. I obviously will in no way hold you responsible for any issues that arise. thanks
 
#7
Wyfox said:
Mine shoots 300gr Berger OTM, Lapua brass, H-1000, loaded at mag length sub moa. I've shot out to 1500yds and it works well, 1000yds is pretty easy with it.

Overkill, mehh...

Click to expand...

Wyfox, you've got it going on... Good looking Goat and rifle. I never shoot game with my .300 Lapua, killed a mess of Whitetail with my .300 RUM with 180 NBT's. Exit wound was big enough to put your fist in.
 
#8
I have one and love to shoot it. If I could only find more Retumbo I would shoot it more often. Get Lapua brass for reloading. If you take care of the brass you will get many reloads on it. So far I have 4 reloads on the brass I have now. Mine shoots 300gr Berger OTM's well. I did install a KMW Loggerhead adjustable cheek piece. Was having trouble with head position while prone. Next thing I plan to do is change to a PTG bolt head and the Nat Lambeth bolt kit. You will enjoy it.
 
#9
NICETRY said:
I have one and love to shoot it. If I could only find more Retumbo I would shoot it more often. Get Lapua brass for reloading. If you take care of the brass you will get many reloads on it. So far I have 4 reloads on the brass I have now. Mine shoots 300gr Berger OTM's well. I did install a KMW Loggerhead adjustable cheek piece. Was having trouble with head position while prone. Next thing I plan to do is change to a PTG bolt head and the Nat Lambeth bolt kit. You will enjoy it.
Click to expand...

I have heard nothing but good about those loggerheads. I will probably be doing the same thing if I don't cheap out and get an adjustable tack-on. One of my absolute necessities is a solid cheek weld. If I have to use any energy whatsoever to hold my head into position, it just ain't right. Glad to hear another OTM suggestion, sounds like they are 2 up on everything else besides the 285 Hornady.
 
#10
I read the kaboom thread, and just wanted to check my understanding of what i read. the big kaboom seems to have been operator error. He was having stuck cases and rather than quit shooting (seems like you would with that sign of pressure) he was pounding them out with his cleaning rod and accidentally shot with the rod in. wouldn't that cause failure in any action? Im planning on going with the savage myself but from what i read they are pretty finicky with anything other than lapua brass. I don't recall what brass the person was shooting. still pretty scary stuff though.

Of course to be fair, Im pretty loyal to anything savage so take that with a grain of salt.
 
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#11
ghostwriter247 said:
I read the kaboom thread, and just wanted to check my understanding of what i read. the big kaboom seems to have been operator error. He was having stuck cases and rather than quit shooting (seems like you would with that sign of pressure) he was pounding them out with his cleaning rod and accidentally shot with the rod in. wouldn't that cause failure in any action? Im planning on going with the savage myself but from what i read they are pretty finicky with anything other than lapua brass. I don't recall what brass the person was shooting. still pretty scary stuff though.

Of course to be fair, Im pretty loyal to anything savage so take that with a grain of salt.
Click to expand...

From what I read, that's what I got out of it too. I don't think anyone was bashing savage in the thread except for one guy. But hell, you can't please everyone and if I have to buy a certain type of brass to get an accurate 338 lapua for just over a grand, then that's fine. Lapua brass supposedly lasts quite a while anyway so it's not really much of a concern to me. I am glad the guy is ok, I'd imagine that's like having a grenade go off by your face!
 
#12
No Savage bashing going on here. I own 8 and multiple barrels, and new PTA in the box to build on. The Kaboom problem could stem from improper sizing, or something in the chamber. I think the problems that I've wittnessed is inexperience in reloading of somekind. If it was not for the fact that I have magnums here I'd by 1 just because the rifle is affordable.
 
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#14
Howdy really new guy here, I have lurked for a bit decided to register. I have the .338 Lapua Mag Savage 110 BA and I must say it is a monster, 1200y is a chip shot. Im trying to push my skills to the max hence me registering to gleen as much info as I can. Get the .338 you wont regret it(except lugging it around) I plan on getting my 3 shots on target at a mile by june with it...hopefully
 
#15
I have had zero problems with mine using lapua brass. My load is 90grs of retumbo with a 300gr smk. Not even a hard bolt lift in mine it has been perfect in all aspects. Best group to date is 4-1/2" at 950 yards I think the rifle can out shoot me
 
#17
I have zero problems with mine also. I would recomend 3 loads

300 gr smk
89.3 gr retumbo
Lapua brass
215m primers
3.685 c.o.a.l
2705 fps

300 gr berger otm
89.3 gr retumbo
Lapua brass
215m primers
3.700 c.oa.l.
Also 2705 fps

*still testing*
300 gr smk
105.7 gr
Wc867
Lapua brass
3.685 c.o.a.l
2830 fps

I am still testing the last load but it has a lot of promise 5 shots .635 at 100 yards. I am using the savage stock 10fcp hs. I have made my own cheak rest because to get a good weld you will need one. Give it some time to break in also it took around 100 rounds to get me and the rifle to work together and broke in well to see what it would really do for good groups. I also recomend only lapua or hornady brass. If you use the s&b i would not expect to get very many reloads out of it. Lapua is the best and well worth the money in the long run. The retumbo loads i listed are very easy on the brass but the wc867 load is compressed and i have no psi issues but it is a healthy load work up to that one if you try it out.
 
#18
zackm said:
I have zero problems with mine also. I would recomend 3 loads

300 gr smk
89.3 gr retumbo
Lapua brass
215m primers
3.685 c.o.a.l
2705 fps

300 gr berger otm
89.3 gr retumbo
Lapua brass
215m primers
3.700 c.oa.l.
Also 2705 fps

*still testing*
300 gr smk
105.7 gr
Wc867
Lapua brass
3.685 c.o.a.l
2830 fps

I am still testing the last load but it has a lot of promise 5 shots .635 at 100 yards. I am using the savage stock 10fcp hs. I have made my own cheak rest because to get a good weld you will need one. Give it some time to break in also it took around 100 rounds to get me and the rifle to work together and broke in well to see what it would really do for good groups. I also recomend only lapua or hornady brass. If you use the s&b i would not expect to get very many reloads out of it. Lapua is the best and well worth the money in the long run. The retumbo loads i listed are very easy on the brass but the wc867 load is compressed and i have no psi issues but it is a healthy load work up to that one if you try it out.
Click to expand...

If you could post a couple pics cheek piece
 
#21
Guys,

Took the FCP to the range this weekend. I really like it. I mounted a Steiner 5-25 Military on her, that I'm also using on my Creedmoor. I have found that all I need to do is zero on the CM, mount on the FCP and dial in 3 mils up and 1 mil left and have my zero for the other gun.

I was shooting S&B 250 gr and some old Lapua 250 gr soft points. The Lapua ammo sucked! The brass is what I'm after though. With the S&B factory loads the thing was a hammer out to 850, which is as far as I have used it so far.

I am hearing lots of Retumbo and H1000, I think I will buy both and some Berger OTM. Thanks immensely for the load advice, it will help when I finally get my supplies.

I'd like to post some pics, can you guys let me know how to embed them without having to click on the image?
 
#22
zackm said:
I have zero problems with mine also. I would recomend 3 loads

300 gr smk
89.3 gr retumbo
Lapua brass
215m primers
3.685 c.o.a.l
2705 fps

300 gr berger otm
89.3 gr retumbo
Lapua brass
215m primers
3.700 c.oa.l.
Also 2705 fps

*still testing*
300 gr smk
105.7 gr
Wc867
Lapua brass
3.685 c.o.a.l
2830 fps

I am still testing the last load but it has a lot of promise 5 shots .635 at 100 yards. I am using the savage stock 10fcp hs. I have made my own cheak rest because to get a good weld you will need one. Give it some time to break in also it took around 100 rounds to get me and the rifle to work together and broke in well to see what it would really do for good groups. I also recomend only lapua or hornady brass. If you use the s&b i would not expect to get very many reloads out of it. Lapua is the best and well worth the money in the long run. The retumbo loads i listed are very easy on the brass but the wc867 load is compressed and i have no psi issues but it is a healthy load work up to that one if you try it out.
Click to expand...

2830 fps with a 300 grain whoooeeeeey that sounds like a thumper! I will definitely work up if I try that powder. Have been hearing Retumbo and H1000 a lot...
 
#23
I have an FCP-HS in .338, I have been nothing but pleased with it. It shoots better than I can most days, and is an absolute ball to shoot. I found that 90gr. of Retumbo under a 250 pill loaded to Mag Length shoots pretty nice, but I haven't really stretched its legs yet. My friend loaded his long, and it didn't shoot any better than my mag safe loads.



 
#24
i checked my notes on the wc867 the vel. was a little higher than i had remembered see below

(105.7 gr wc867 (3) shots 1. 2870 2. 2862 3. 2865 average 2865.66 std dev. = 3 fps these all loaded with 300 gr smk seated at 3.700 c.o.a.l that is 0.035 off of my lands 3 shot group was just over .50 moa at 100 yards)

if your going to use 300 gr smk or bergers retumbo at 89.3 gr is the load and in the savages 3.680 - 3.690 is the seating depth for the smk and 3.700 seems to be the ticket with the bergers. if your gun does not shoot that load well then it is a gun problem. i have know quite a few people that told me that before i tried it and found it to be true. i have tried higher and lower charges all the way to 94.0 grains of retumbo. i have never tried the h1000 pretty much settled on the retumbo load. then retumbo got hard to find and i load a lot of 50 cal. also and have the wc867 on hand. i found some load data and started testing it because i have a lot of it and it is very cheap. i bought 16 lbs of it delivered with the hazmat fee was 90.00 i think and it is in brand new sealed 8# kegs. i have tried the 102.5 gr. of wc867 and it showed some promise to but was about 100 fps slower. the thing i was most impressed about on the wc867 was that the std dev.on the 105.7 gr load was only 2 fps as you can see above. the temp outside was 70 at the time of my last test. if you need more info let me know. nice looking set by the way your gonna like it more and more every time you shoot it.
 
#25
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpgimage.jpg
These are so pictures of my cheek rest on my savage i put a custom camo paint job on it myself also. I have yet to find a person to shoot it and not like the cheek rest they all raise one eyebrow at first but like it after thet try it.
 
#26
zackm said:
I have zero problems with mine also. I would recomend 3 loads

300 gr smk
89.3 gr retumbo
Lapua brass
215m primers
3.685 c.o.a.l
2705 fps

300 gr berger otm
89.3 gr retumbo
Lapua brass
215m primers
3.700 c.oa.l.
Also 2705 fps

*still testing*
300 gr smk
105.7 gr
Wc867
Lapua brass
3.685 c.o.a.l
2830 fps

I am still testing the last load but it has a lot of promise 5 shots .635 at 100 yards. I am using the savage stock 10fcp hs. I have made my own cheak rest because to get a good weld you will need one. Give it some time to break in also it took around 100 rounds to get me and the rifle to work together and broke in well to see what it would really do for good groups. I also recomend only lapua or hornady brass. If you use the s&b i would not expect to get very many reloads out of it. Lapua is the best and well worth the money in the long run. The retumbo loads i listed are very easy on the brass but the wc867 load is compressed and i have no psi issues but it is a healthy load work up to that one if you try it out.
Click to expand...

In my 110 BA I am 3.710 touching the lands, is that Berger OTM load C.O.A.L .010 of the lands for the jump? or is your jump longer. I ask as I have ordered some Berger OTM's 300g to work up a ELR load. Thanks
 
#27
I have a few questions for ahhshoot and 1quik70 and other .338 lapua owners,
Why did you guys choose your version of the savage? What version did you choose?

I see the SA 110 FCP HS Precision in .338 Lapua at 1677 MSRP and the SA 110 BA RH for 2561 MSPR.
Is their any difference in the barrels or actions between these two versions?
Is the extra 884 dollars for the BA RH justified or is one simply just paying for the chassis on the BA RH that could be upgraded down the road later on the FCP HS Precision model?

Thanks to anyone who can help me better understand the differences between these two models. I am new to Long Range Shooting and am mainly concerned about the barrel/action.

To everyone that posted a pictures above, I know that this will be me one day because the .338 is one heck of a cartridge!
:)
 
#28
When I load the bergers at 3.700 with the 89.3 gr. of retumbo I have .140 jump to the lands. with 300 gr berger bullets I touch lands at 3.840 c.o.a.l.. I need to check now with my comperator that measures ogive because that is a much more conistant #. when I load the the bergers with the wc867 @105.7 gr. i use a c.o.a.l of 3.840 that is touching my lands. I do this because 105.7 gr. of wc867 is a full case of powder (just below the neck & above the shoulder) and i am using a 4" drop tube to pour the powder.
when i use the 300 gr SMK I use 3.685 c.o.a.l. this is a 0.45 jump for me i touch lands at 3.730 with the 300 gr. SMK. most of the people I know with the 110 BA say they touch lands at 3.710 with the 300 gr SMK like you said yours does. the FCP seems to be a touch further for some reason. hope this helps
if you got a lot of the 300 gr. bergers i would not mind buying some off of you pm if you are willing to sell a few.
 
#29
AyKay said:
I have a few questions for ahhshoot and 1quik70 and other .338 lapua owners,
Why did you guys choose your version of the savage? What version did you choose?

I see the SA 110 FCP HS Precision in .338 Lapua at 1677 MSRP and the SA 110 BA RH for 2561 MSPR.
Is their any difference in the barrels or actions between these two versions?
Is the extra 884 dollars for the BA RH justified or is one simply just paying for the chassis on the BA RH that could be upgraded down the road later on the FCP HS Precision model?

Thanks to anyone who can help me better understand the differences between these two models. I am new to Long Range Shooting and am mainly concerned about the barrel/action.

To everyone that posted a pictures above, I know that this will be me one day because the .338 is one heck of a cartridge!
:)
Click to expand...

I bought my FCP-HS from a store that had both this rifle and a brand new 110BA. The BA looked like the same thing with regards to the barrel and action, with a bigger muzzle brake and that stock.

I like the HS precision stock better. No offense to the guys with the BA, it's just opinion. The FCP is only 10 lbs so I plan to use it for hunting as well as long range shooting. I will, however, be adding an adjustable comb or having a custom job done to it.

I would not ever plan to change the stock on this rifle. The HS stock is something I may consider upgrading some of my other rifles to, though. I have an AICS on my creedmoor, so maybe my desire for tacticool stocks ended when I got that. lm.jpg6.5cm.jpg

If I am wrong about the action and barrel, someone let me know. My gun shop guy also said the difference was in the stock and the brake.

FYI I ended up paying just over $1400 for my brand new FCP-HS and it came with Weaver 20 MOA tactical base and Harris bipod, as well as 3 boxes of old Lapua SP 250gr ammo that the gun shop couldn't re-sell because the ammo was returned. I got a good deal IMO.

I think it's pretty awesome that this thread has evolved into handload recipes for this particular gun. Keep 'em coming. I will be referring to this thread when I get my dies and projectiles, no doubt.
 
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#30
I don't own either of These so take it with a grain of salt. I handled both a couple of weeks ago as I'm thinking about purchasing them myself. I own the 10 ba and really like the ergonomics of it. coming from an ar background its comfortable for me. And it's a real hammer. The fcp has same action but smaller barrel I'm almost positive, which surprised me as i though they were identical. I didn't mic it or look up the specs tho but visibly looked smaller. The action is the same.

The msrp on these are overstated buds gun shop has the ba at 1896 I think and the fcp down around 14 to 1500. I think either would work well. The grip on the fcp was different for me but not as uncomfortable as i thought it would be.

I dont think practically i would be unsatisified with either one i just like chassis systems. so it comes down to price and personal aesthetics really.
 
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#31
AyKay said:
I have a few questions for ahhshoot and 1quik70 and other .338 lapua owners,
Why did you guys choose your version of the savage? What version did you choose?

I see the SA 110 FCP HS Precision in .338 Lapua at 1677 MSRP and the SA 110 BA RH for 2561 MSPR.
Is their any difference in the barrels or actions between these two versions?
Is the extra 884 dollars for the BA RH justified or is one simply just paying for the chassis on the BA RH that could be upgraded down the road later on the FCP HS Precision model?

Thanks to anyone who can help me better understand the differences between these two models. I am new to Long Range Shooting and am mainly concerned about the barrel/action.

To everyone that posted a pictures above, I know that this will be me one day because the .338 is one heck of a cartridge!
:)
Click to expand...

the stock / chasis is the biggest diff. from the BA to the FCP. i like the feel of the FCP better then the BA with a more traditional stock / chasis. the down side is you have to make or fit a cheek rest to get a good cheek weld with the FCP because it is not adjustable like the BA. the barrel and action from what i understand are exactly the same. as i posted earlier the FCP seems to have a touch longer c.o.al. than the BA's. the price point was the other deciding factor for me. i have had several people tell me that go the BA and have shot mine wish they had got the FCP and put the extra 800.00 toward the optic. that does not go for everyone but just starting out it is not bad logic.
 
#33
ghostwriter247 said:
The barrels were close enough that I thought it might be an optical illusion. I was going to email savage when I got closer to buying to ask just to make sure because a larger barrel woul make the decision for me.
Click to expand...

Ghostwriter,

If the barrel makes the difference and the difference is about $800, for that kind of money you could buy the FCP and send your action to Bartlein to make you a custom stainless with 5r rifling and gain twist, threaded and fluted and bead blasted, and mounted to your action...

EDIT - You wouldn't even have to, Savage has the barrel nut, just headspace on your own and order a prefit!
 
#34
I keep running into these 'hit or miss' comments. Those comments have me indecisive weather or not it would even be worth dropping the cash on the platform. Myth or fact? If fact, have the bugs been worked out in the 2014 Serial #'erd rifles?

I agree that the hand load recipes for this specific rifle is neat!
 
#35
AyKay said:
I have a few questions for ahhshoot and 1quik70 and other .338 lapua owners,
Why did you guys choose your version of the savage? What version did you choose?

I see the SA 110 FCP HS Precision in .338 Lapua at 1677 MSRP and the SA 110 BA RH for 2561 MSPR.
Is their any difference in the barrels or actions between these two versions?
Is the extra 884 dollars for the BA RH justified or is one simply just paying for the chassis on the BA RH that could be upgraded down the road later on the FCP HS Precision model?



Thanks to anyone who can help me better understand the differences between these two models. I am new to Long Range Shooting and am mainly concerned about the barrel/action.

To everyone that posted a pictures above, I know that this will be me one day because the .338 is one heck of a cartridge!
:)
Click to expand...

I have both. Besides the obviously different stock, the BA has a heavier profile barrel. I'm not sure if they use the same reamer, but my load in the BA is 92 grains of Retumbo under the 300 OTM. That shoots .3 MOA in the BA and about 1.5 MOA in the FCP. It is also over 100 FPS slower in the FCP. Go figure.

-J
 
#36
jfields said:
I have both. Besides the obviously different stock, the BA has a heavier profile barrel. I'm not sure if they use the same reamer, but my load in the BA is 92 grains of Retumbo under the 300 OTM. That shoots .3 MOA in the BA and about 1.5 MOA in the FCP. It is also over 100 FPS slower in the FCP. Go figure.

-J
Click to expand...

Fields,

Can you confirm the difference in barrel profile? Do you have calipers handy? I too thought this at first glance but then seeing the BA has a radically different brake I thought it may have been an illusion based on the chassis and brake relationship.

Perhaps the group difference may be related to what one of the other posters said earlier about the lands being further on the FCP? Have you worked up loads for both rifles or just the BA? I wonder if you could shrink up the 1.5 MOA, that is pretty sad. I didn't measure because I didn't shoot anything closer than 500 yards but, I could have sworn I was getting better than that out of my FCP with factory S&B 250 grain ammo. I hope to do better than 1.5" with my handloads.
 
#37
I have not put my hands on a FCP but my BA shoots like a laser and love it. I def will not be 5-7k ft in the mountains packing that thing all day. But i couldn't be happier with her(Savage 110 BA), [MENTION=92397]zackm[/MENTION] Thanks for the info Ill have to seat deeper with the OTM for my c.o.a.l but I was thinking of playing around with the jump to the lands anyway, most factory ammo iv'e gotten is 3.6 and change.

I was shooting Lapua Scenar's:

300g LM Scenar's
87g Retumbo
Lapua Brass
Fed 215 primers
C.O.A.L 3.680

Shooting at a steel 18"x 28" silhouette steel @1100y
 
#38
Please remember that any load data I put on here is mine and I am not responsible for, these are my loads and all reloading precautions and practices should be adhered to for your specific fire arm.

Edit; this post will make sense when they approve my earlier post :)
 
#41
ahhshoot said:
Fields,

Can you confirm the difference in barrel profile? Do you have calipers handy? I too thought this at first glance but then seeing the BA has a radically different brake I thought it may have been an illusion based on the chassis and brake relationship.

Perhaps the group difference may be related to what one of the other posters said earlier about the lands being further on the FCP? Have you worked up loads for both rifles or just the BA? I wonder if you could shrink up the 1.5 MOA, that is pretty sad. I didn't measure because I didn't shoot anything closer than 500 yards but, I could have sworn I was getting better than that out of my FCP with factory S&B 250 grain ammo. I hope to do better than 1.5" with my handloads.
Click to expand...

The BA is .900 at the muzzle and the FCP is .845. I would have to take the actions out of the stocks to get the measurement at the barrel nut, but I know the BA is bigger there as well. I am just starting load development for the FCP. I will let you know how it goes.

-J
 
#42
jfields said:
The BA is .900 at the muzzle and the FCP is .845. I would have to take the actions out of the stocks to get the measurement at the barrel nut, but I know the BA is bigger there as well. I am just starting load development for the FCP. I will let you know how it goes.

-J
Click to expand...

Thanks Jfields, I guess that confirms that the barrel on the BA is also different. Definitely let me know how that development goes, and to all posting load data, thank you and of course I will emphasize anyone obtaining load info from the net exercise caution and all safety standards, always work up to a load and remember nobody is responsible for you doing anything to yourself!
 
#43
Good bit of information. I thought the two barrels/actions might be different.
This puts me out of the .338 for a while due to funding.
...one day..!
 
#44
Just check my barrel dimension on the FCP and got 0.848 at then just before the brake. I measured the brake it is 1.050 and round outside of the scalops for the brake gills. If someone else with BA and calipers could measure i would be interrested in knowing the diff. If any. I checked with the savage web page both have the exact same barrel length.

On another side i have a lot of WC867 i would trade 3 pounds of it and load data i have for it. for say (60) 300gr berger 338 cal otm's pm me if any takers on that
 
#45
AyKay said:
Good bit of information. I thought the two barrels/actions might be different.
This puts me out of the .338 for a while due to funding.
...one day..!
Click to expand...

I believe the actions are the same, we are getting word from some posters that the barrels are slightly different, with the BA having a slightly larger dimension.
 
#46
Had one and it literally tore the bolt head apart as well as the stocks bedding block was banged up pretty bad. Savage made it good and were great to deal with but I just couldn't go with another one


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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