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Pitfalls of Buying Tikka vs. Remington

K

Kirk111

Private
Minuteman
Sep 1, 2013
92
0
Austin, TX
#1
Thanks to everyone for helping me decide on a caliber. I'm leaning toward going .308, but .260 looks good too.

I'm going to make my rifle purchase in the next few weeks. I could really use a little help with the choice. Again the use for the rifle will be about 90% range and 10% or less hunting. I have 3 rifles I'm interested in right now:

1. Tikka T3 Sporter, 24" barrel
2. Remington 5R Milspec
3. Remington 700P

I checked out the T3 Sporter in person and it really seems to work for me. I like the feel of the stock (okay not the color so much) and it has all the adjustments I think I'd want. Also the heavy barrel, and pretty much everything I'm looking for or will need for a very long time. However, I have concerns about Tikka. I know this is obvious to most here, but I know there are less parts available and the costs seem greater compared to Remington.

I just want to know the pitfalls of getting into the Tikka line before I buy. For long range shooting, is there something that will limit me by going with Tikka? Are the availability of parts that big of a deal? Are the costs that different? I can live with more costs to a point, but I'd like to know ahead of time.

From what I've seen, quite a few persons on this forum use Tikka, and I hear generally great reviews.

I know going Remington would be the safer route, but is there an advantage to going Remington that I'm not aware of? I know the parts for upgrade are far more numerous and I guess it would resell easier. Anything else? Also, while I do like the stock of both Remingtons, I think I'd want to upgrade soon (B&C Medalist, or similar). So the Tikka seems to have more of the options I'd really like for the time being.

Thanks for fielding my newbie question!
 
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#2
Personally, I think that anything you can find for a Remington, you can find for a Tikka, but in smaller numbers of choices, if that makes sense (for example, you can find alternate parts for pretty much any part of the gun but you may only have one or two choices for the Tikka, where Remington could have a dozen, depending on what it is you're looking for. All of them will work). Cost is probably going to be similar. The real question in my opinion, however, is which, if any parts are you going to want to replace or add? From a pure cost standpoint, you could end up actually spending more on the Remington by wanting (or even needing) to upgrade/replace things over what you can get out of the box for the Tikka, even though the out of the box price is in favor of the Remington.

I like Tikkas for three reasons. First, every one I've ever shot has been extremely accurate with little or no modification to what comes out of the box. Second, it has probably the smoothest and fastest action you can get for the money. Lastly, It seems like everybody has a Remington and I like to be different. On the surface, it seems like the Remington is the better choice for the sake of options. But, when you really start to research the Tikkas, there are plenty of parts out there for them, should you decide that you need them (and you might not).

My .02

John
 
#3
While you may want .308 (I own a bunch of them in bolt and gas guns), if you are serious about shooting.....Look hard at .260 and 6.5CM. They are about as factory as you can go for great shooting rounds that wont break the bank. .243 is another example.

Tikka's flat out shoot. I just bought a 20" .260 so Ill let you know how it shoots. I would not own a remington unless it was free. There are too many other good actions out there to start out with one defective/poorly made from the factory.

Keep in mind that the finest/best Chasis/stock is availible for the tikka. Check out the Whiskey 3 from KRG. Throw a sporter in there and you have a rifle that will keep up with GAP/APA/ect custom build sticks, at a fraction of the cost.....and with a better stock.
 
#4
Thanks guys. I seem to hear that from every Tikka owner that posts. I'm sure there are exceptions, but not many here.

Cobra: I'm afraid I beat the .260 / 6.5cr / .308 topic to pulp. It was really about half and half or close on the recommendations - 1/2 .260/cr and 1/2 .308. What worries me most is the cost difference as I mentioned there. Here's the info I found in a search on ammoseek:

.260 $1.5 - $2.5 per round
6.5mm creed $1.20- $2.25 per round
308 $0.18 - $4.50 or so

Long story short (new for me): I really would like to get the Sporter in 6.5mm SE or .260, but it seems the costs are significantly more compared to .308. At least from what I found. I also mentioned that I am going to reload, but don't know how or have the equipment right now, and really don't know how long it will take me to get up to speed there. If I knew it would take about 3-6 months, I'd jump all over the .260 or 6.5mmx55 se (the two other ammo choices for the sporter I'd consider).
 
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#5
Cobracutter said:
While you may want .308 (I own a bunch of them in bolt and gas guns), if you are serious about shooting.....Look hard at .260 and 6.5CM. They are about as factory as you can go for great shooting rounds that wont break the bank. .243 is another example.

Tikka's flat out shoot. I just bought a 20" .260 so Ill let you know how it shoots. I would not own a remington unless it was free. There are too many other good actions out there to start out with one defective/poorly made from the factory.

Keep in mind that the finest/best Chasis/stock is availible for the tikka. Check out the Whiskey 3 from KRG. Throw a sporter in there and you have a rifle that will keep up with GAP/APA/ect custom build sticks, at a fraction of the cost.....and with a better stock.
Click to expand...

If you bought a sporter and put it in a W3 you'd be in $2800. That's closing in on used AIAE, TRG-22 and GAP territory.
 
#6
Randoman5 said:
If you bought a sporter and put it in a W3 you'd be in $2800. That's closing in on used AIAE, TRG-22 and GAP territory.
Click to expand...

Sporter is 1400, WC3 is 1000 that is 2400. Sell the Sporter stock for 5-600 and you are at 1800-2000 for the rifle.

I don't see many (any AE's) for 2800 and most gaps are more. From what I have seen and heard, I would put a factory Tikka or TRG up against a Gap/AE and not feel undergunned whatsoever.
 
#7
I know it varies, but how long do you think it would take on average to learn to reload?

I'm still finding the 6.5mm cartridges very tempting and am vulnerable to suggestion. Just don't tell Bogaloo.

I do tend to be different. In that way, tikka appeals to me for some reason.
 
#8
Kirk111 said:
Thanks guys. I seem to hear that from every Tikka owner that posts. I'm sure there are exceptions, but not many here.

Cobra: I'm afraid I beat the .260 / 6.5cr / .308 topic to pulp. It was really about half and half or close on the recommendations - 1/2 .260/cr and 1/2 .308. What worries me most is the cost difference as I mentioned there. Here's the info I found in a search on ammoseek:

.260 $1.5 - $2.5 per round
6.5mm creed $1.20- $2.25 per round
308 $0.18 - $4.50 or so

Long story short (new for me): I really would like to get the Sporter in 6.5mm SE or .260, but it seems the costs are significantly more compared to .308. At least from what I found. I also mentioned that I am going to reload, but don't know how or have the equipment right now, and really don't know how long it will take me to get up to speed there. If I knew it would take about 3-6 months, I'd jump all over the .260 or 6.5mmx55 se (the two other ammo choices for the sporter I'd consider).
Click to expand...

If you reload, you can shoot the .260 for around the same price as reloaded .308. Use lapua Brass and you will get long life.

SW ammo also has a reloading service. Its like $.87 per round. Just send in your brass. So say you buy 300 factory rounds from them @$31 Thats $465 for 300 rounds or $1.55 a Round. Now send that back and they will reload it for $1 a round. I am not sure how many times the brass will last for reloading,But say 3 reloads would average your price out to $1.04 a round. Thats cheaper than factory 6.5CM or FGGM .308 in 168/175.

I don't reload so this is my plan (unless i find a cheaper route)
 
#9
Kirk111 said:
I know it varies, but how long do you think it would take on average to learn to reload?

I'm still finding the 6.5mm cartridges very tempting and am vulnerable to suggestion. Just don't tell Bogaloo.

I do tend to be different. In that way, tikka appeals to me for some reason.
Click to expand...

It took me about a year to really get a handle on things. HOWEVER, I did not have the luxury of a forum like this one with so many knowledgeable people to show me the ropes and correct me before I wasted hundreds/thousands of rounds learning pretty much on my own. Now I handload for nearly twenty calibers, including a lot of odd-ball, old military stuff....and I wouldn't have it any other way. The cost is only one advantage. The quality/accuracy of the ammo, tailored to a particular firearm, just can't be beat. It could depend on the volume you intend to shoot, though. If you only hit the range once a month, or every couple months, it takes a lot longer to get your investment back. But, it doesn't usually take very long to see the accuracy/consistency benefits and that has an investment value all it's own, in my opinion. .308 and 6.5 are going to be very similar in cost if you handload, as Cobracutter just mentioned. If I would have known that when I got more serious about long range shooting, I would probably have not got a .308 to start with. Not that there's anything "wrong" with .308. It was a great caliber to start learning with, but the various 6.5 offerings just do it better. :cool:
 
#10
Can't go wrong with either, I own both in 308, a Remington from Hill Country rifles in Texas that flat out shoots (but was over $2K) and a Tikka that also is a shooter. I'm going to sell the Tikka just cause I'm more attached to the Remy from various hunting trips and have a TRG on the way.
 
#11
I think you're right. I don't think I can go wrong with either. Thanks everyone. Now to go out and find the Sporter with the least orange!

If I paid someone to teach me reloading, I'll bet I could be creating "usable" rounds withing a month on my own. I was going to start with DAG ammo in .308 anyway while I'm covering fundamentals.
 
#12
I tried 3 seperate times. Spent thousands, and just couldnt get into it. Felt like work and my time is more valuable so I just buy factory ammo.

Learning is not hard. You can make many tasks easier, quicker and more uniform, but that will cost money. For a decent total setup with a progressive press I would budget around $2500 for everything.

Kirk111 said:
I know it varies, but how long do you think it would take on average to learn to reload?

I'm still finding the 6.5mm cartridges very tempting and am vulnerable to suggestion. Just don't tell Bogaloo.

I do tend to be different. In that way, tikka appeals to me for some reason.
Click to expand...
 
#13
Kirk111 said:
I think you're right. I don't think I can go wrong with either. Thanks everyone. Now to go out and find the Sporter with the least orange!

If I paid someone to teach me reloading, I'll bet I could be creating "usable" rounds withing a month on my own. I was going to start with DAG ammo in .308 anyway while I'm covering fundamentals.
Click to expand...

I read for decades. Had a tutor show me the mechanics hands on after knowing what to expect minus the 'feel'
Big boost . Bought a RCBS kit and payed attention. Added a couple Hornady measuring aids and a good caliper. No more factory rounds.
I must say that I was lucky and was shown basic procedures.
 
#14
reloading Isn't as much as it seems, soon as you get it down its easy, only downside is if you do a lot of rounds getting the brass prepped really is tedious and your hands may hurt after but its all worth it at the range
 
#15
If you read reloading manuals and read online, it will make it a easier in the beginning. Also do not expect immediate results it takes a little time to get loads worked up buts it definitely worth it. I never really have shot much factory ammo, probably 150-200rnds total, other than that its all handloads, so I'm not the best a what factory ammo is best.
 
#16
Cost of factory rounds I dont think is a fair comparison of 308 vs the 6.5's either. Sure you can get crap 308 ammo cheaper, but for solid quality ammo that I would want to be shooting out of a nicer rifle the costs come closer to negating each other.
 
#17
Kirk111 said:
Thanks guys. I seem to hear that from every Tikka owner that posts. I'm sure there are exceptions, but not many here.

Cobra: I'm afraid I beat the .260 / 6.5cr / .308 topic to pulp. It was really about half and half or close on the recommendations - 1/2 .260/cr and 1/2 .308. What worries me most is the cost difference as I mentioned there. Here's the info I found in a search on ammoseek.

.260 $1.5 - $2.5 per round
6.5mm creed $1.20- $2.25 per round
308 $0.18 - $4.50 or so

Long story short (new for me): I really would like to get the Sporter in 6.5mm SE or .260, but it seems the costs are significantly more compared to .308. At least from what I found. I also mentioned that I am going to reload, but don't know how or have the equipment right now, and really don't know how long it will take me to get up to speed there. If I knew it would take about 3-6 months, I'd jump all over the .260 or 6.5mmx55 se (the two other ammo choices for the sporter I'd consider).
Click to expand...

Just wanted you to know that reloading ammo is easy! There are some nuances involved in reloading which help turn out the highest quality ammo but even they are easy once you understand them. In the long run reloading is waaay cheaper. Sure makes a guy feel good when he kicks ass with his own finely crafted ammo!

In shooting long range the extra velocity combined with the high BC of the 6's and 6.5's helps because of the decreased wind drift, almost half what a 308/168's would be. Example...I shoot a long range match here in AZ. Seems a lot of new guys come out with their new 308 and shoot factory ammo. Not exaggerating here! There's been more than a few new guys not even hit one target out of a 40 shot course! On the other side of the coin some of the most highly acclaimed firearms instructors in the country have come to the match shooting there 308's with factory ammo and done well but rarely win, why???, because those of us shooting 6's and 6.5's have a huge advantage in the wind.
 
#19
I was in the same exact boat as you 4 years ago but knew nothing about the 6.5's and 260's then. Got a Remmy VLS in 308 and a cheep reloading setup from Lee and did a ton of research and reading on 6mmBR. I changed stocks, bought better optics and triggers as I slowly honed my loading skills. It took me about a year and a half to finally shoot a 1/2 moa group inside a 1" dot at 200 yards. I shot every Sunday and after hitting my goal I fell off. I hardly went anymore, and almost two years later the bug hit me again. I took a Remington Model 7 I had and gave it a makeover. Barrel, bolt, rail, trigger, glass, and stock. She's a beauty and I kept it a 308 because I already owned the dies and brass. Then a few months went by and I realized I needed new brass, more bullets etc. and at this exact point in time I'm kicking myself in the ass for not going with a 243!!!!! Flatter is where its at! I have done more research and am leery of barrel burners like the 6.5-284 because of barrel life (although they shoot like fricken laser beams) and I would want something you dont have to form and I'm sorry I didnt go with 243.... I still love my 308, but always wonder how it could have been!
 
#20
Don't forget that the Tikka sporter stock is a very good stock. It may not look the greatest but you can always have it hydro dipped any color/ camo pattern you want.
 
#21
Tikka's have a better reputation than the "average" Remington. There is an intangible in shooting that goes a long way. Most don't ever address it directly, but seek it out in just about every post. Without a doubt, confidence in your weapon makes you a better shooter of that weapon. I can't measure it. I can't calculate it. But if Brand X floats your boat, go with that. Not what the poll numbers in the thread say.

Obviously there are logical limitations on this such as complete crap vs gold standard gear. But you get my point.

TTR
 
#24
I know what you mean. One hesitation I have is that being so new I'll not really recognize the benefits for a long time. But I'm pretty determined and usually progress quickly. Not because of talent, just work. I think I lean toward the 6.5mms also because it's going to be a hunting round as well as target. Thanks for the help.
 
#26
I am leaning toward the Tikka. I like the feel of the stock a lot. And I know I'll appreciate the extra weight in the stock when it comes to recoil. I'm not worried about the recoil of either the .308 or the 6.5mms, but I like the idea of being able to stay on target better with the extra weight. But then I was going to change out the stock on the Rem 5r for a Bell and Carlson Medalist or similar. So either way. For some reason, I always like to be a bit different. If the stock doesn't grow on me (I think it might) then I think I'll cerakote it and add grip like the Master Sporter similar to Drifter01's recent redo. I liked his a lot.
 
#29
Kirk, you're going to suffer analysis paralysis AGAIN! Get the Tikka Sporter in .308. Go shoot the thing, try reloading, and if you enjoy the sport, screw a 6/6.5 barrel on at that time. Learn your wind, first. That's my opinion, anyway.
 
#30
Remington is good though Tikka/Sako is great (As a whole for both) I own both and the two models of Remington that your looking into are great and would stand up to anything that you can get in a Tikka. I look at it this way, there are a ton of Remingtons out there and a growing number though significantly less Tikkas. Do you want something different or to be part of the tradition. As for the upgrades, Remington does have cheaper options though good ones for both are in the same range.

Good luck on your decision and I'm confident in saying either way you'll get a shooter!
 
#31
FALex said:
Kirk, you're going to suffer analysis paralysis AGAIN! Get the Tikka Sporter in .308. Go shoot the thing, try reloading, and if you enjoy the sport, screw a 6/6.5 barrel on at that time. Learn your wind, first. That's my opinion, anyway.
Click to expand...
Not bad advice. By the time you shoot the barrel out of it, or even get half way there, you'll know exactly what you want to change on it, or if you want to move in a different direction with it and you'll have an excellent donor action to work from. Also, I know you mentioned the possibility of 6.5x55, but going with the short action calibers will really open up your options for upgrades/changes in the future.
 
#32
Kirk, one thing I'll add about the Tikka is that the single column magazine adds more beef to their actions. Their actions are very stiff when compared to magazines that have the staggered columns. I think Tikkas are great actions for custom builds as well. As others have said, they shoot great right out of the box, too.
 
#33
long range newbie said:
reloading Isn't as much as it seems, soon as you get it down its easy, only downside is if you do a lot of rounds getting the brass prepped really is tedious and your hands may hurt after but its all worth it at the range
Click to expand...

While brass prep may be the most tedious task in handloading ammo, I find that I can do almost all of it sitting in my recliner while watching TV with the wife.

Full length sizing requires the bench mounted press but from there it's no big deal. If only neck sizing I use a Lee Hand press with a Forster shoulder bump/Neck size bushing die.

Into the tumbler with stainless steel pins. Once clean I use an RCBS Lathe type trimmer with 3-way cutter that's mounted on a lap board. Board holds unit steady and catches the "trimmings". Once trimmed the I then I hand prime all cases and store as batches of matched cases.

When I need more ammo it's just a matter of taking the box(es) of prepped brass, charging with powder, and seating a bullet.

The key to making it an easy task is to do all the little parts of the case prep in spare time as you have it. If you wait until you need the brass right now then it needs a greater part of your day.
 
#34
Rockchucker,chargemaster, set of forster ultra dies, lee case trimmer, deburr tool, flash hole uniformer, tumbler, shellholder, auto prime, and case lube pad kit-about 675ish, depending on where u shop. Components are tough to come by, any br/match primers are scarce, they are nice but not required. Bullets and brass are plentiful. H4350 is no where, thanka in part to hoarders that like to brag on forums like here about having 80 lbs in their closet. Imr4350 and accurate4350 are good subs for 260 or 6.5 cm. My 24" 260 sporter was hitting14x14" steel at 1175 with ease. Fv wind at 9 mph, but steady no letups. First 5 shots was 10" on plate,. The biggest problem with going tikka is later on if u look at a Remington it will be rough cycling and pale in accuracy in stock trim compared to the sporter
 
#37
As others have said, reloading is not difficult and will save you money very, very quickly.
As for calibers, .243 barrels last about 1,200 rounds. .260 barrels last at least 2,500 rounds. 308 barrels last approximately 5,000 rounds.

I would go with the .260 and plan on rebarrelling at some time in the future. A 7-08 would also work well, but has more recoil than the .260.
 
#38
Joop said:
Not bad advice. By the time you shoot the barrel out of it, or even get half way there, you'll know exactly what you want to change on it, or if you want to move in a different direction with it and you'll have an excellent donor action to work from. Also, I know you mentioned the possibility of 6.5x55, but going with the short action calibers will really open up your options for upgrades/changes in the future.
Click to expand...

All of the Tikka's are long actions. You can build either.
 
#41
I have a Tikka T3 Sporter in 260. Shot extremely well straight out of the box. Comes with 5 shot detatchable magazine and factory threaded muzzle, oversize bolt knob. Stable, yet light, laminated stock that mimics my TRG 42 and allows the same adjustments to fit. The Spuhr scope mount fits straight onto the solid top receiver.
With the 136gr Lapua Scenar L been great out past 1000m. I played with the long magazine and bolt stop for longer OAL and seating projectile just off but found accuracy was just as good at 2.810 and gave better velocity and ES.
Last years Swiss club shoot at 300m, 5 shot application went into 13.7mm at 300m. Luckily the guy pulling targets took a picture with his phone.

You won't go wrong with the Tikka. The fantastic value for money, accuracy and smoothness of the Tikka is fast becoming known in the US. In the light stainless configuration, it's the number 1 selling rifle in New Zealand.
 

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#42
Okay. I'm checking around and it seems the only online reseller for the Tikka Sporter is EuroOptic. They don't have the one I'm looking for right now. Am I missing another online reseller? Otherwise, I can start checking stores around Texas, but that's going to get tedious. McBrides in Austin has one, but only in the 20" barrel.

If anyone sees a Tikka Sporter with a 24" barrel in either 308 or 260 let me know! Thanks for your help everyone.

I'm keeping the .260 route open at the moment. I'm considering just getting a 10x SWFA and putting the extra funds into reloading equip and instruction. I know, I know. I really am listening, but just weighing the options. I'll pull the trigger in the next week or so.
 
#43
Kirk111 said:
Okay. I'm checking around and it seems the only online reseller for the Tikka Sporter is EuroOptic. They don't have the one I'm looking for right now. Am I missing another online reseller? Otherwise, I can start checking stores around Texas, but that's going to get tedious. McBrides in Austin has one, but only in the 20" barrel.

If anyone sees a Tikka Sporter with a 24" barrel in either 308 or 260 let me know! Thanks for your help everyone.

I'm keeping the .260 route open at the moment. I'm considering just getting a 10x SWFA and putting the extra funds into reloading equip and instruction. I know, I know. I really am listening, but just weighing the options. I'll pull the trigger in the next week or so.
Click to expand...

Something you might consider is getting the sporter and painting it. A guy on here did just that, and it looked freakin amazing! I own both, and am a machinist/smith so workmanship is paramount to me, which makes the tikka stand head and shoulders above the Remington.
 
#45
Delta: I'm considering doing just that. Drifter 001 was one who refinished his and it did look amazing. I have to say I really wish they had stuck to the look of the Master Sporter. Most Everyone would like that, but the multi color appeals to a much smaller crowd IMO. I'm hoping to get one and maybe it will grow on me as is. But if not, I think I'll do a lot of what Drifter did. Cerakote it maybe tan or TRG green and add the grip areas like the Master Sporter. We'll see. Depending on the price, I would consider paying someone else to do the refinishing. I think I could do it, but I hate for that to be my first experience with cerakoting or refinishing.
 
#49
$.02...

Go with a 6.5mm of some flavor unless you'll be shooting something that specifically calls for .308 like F/TR. And Tikka > Rem 700 unless you are paying to have the actions trued etc at which point its down to whether you like karjalanpiirakka or cherry pie.
 
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