• Frank's Lesson's Contest

    We want to see your skills! Post a video between now and November 1st showing what you've learned from Frank's lessons and 3 people will be selected to win a free shirt. Good luck everyone!

    Create a channel Learn more
  • Having trouble using the site?

    Contact support

powered primer pocket uniforming...

Fred @ Bison Tactical

Bison Tactical
Commercial Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
  • May 18, 2012
    1,817
    625
    Boulder, CO
    www.bisontactical.com
    I am looking at powering up my process for cleaning up primer pockets. I see a lot of manufacturers offer some way of attaching to a drill.

    Has or does anyone use a dremel tool instead of a slower cordless drill for this purpose?

    I like the idea of not having to eventually replace batteries, so have been thinking about what tools would work best for the tasks like this that could be powered by some tool rather than using wrist twisting...

    I know gracey makes a powered version, just figured I would start at the lower end and potentially a tool that could be used for multiple operations like flash hole reaming maybe as well...
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    I use Lyman uniformer and sometimes chuck it in a cordless drill. You'll need to be careful and go slow because you can get the pocket out of round if you're not careful.
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    Uniformimg the pockets with a high speed tool such as a drill can ruin the pocket by enlarging it slightly, never go faster than what cordless drills go which is around 100rpm. I found RCBS/Lyman uniformers are not high quaility tools compared to a Sinclair one piece uniformer, the Sinclair is solid carbide compared to just the ends of the blades on lower quaility tools.
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    @427Cobra thanks, thats what I was looking for, wasn't sure if going faster would enlarge the pocket or not, makes sense though, and there is no way to go slow with a dremel, so it looks like its going to be cordless drill.

    I like the sinclair tools also.
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    I use the Sinclair tool and it works great. Be careful and go slow. Don't remove more material than you need to. I have more than a few cases with loose primer pockets because I ran the tool on a Craftsman cordless drill at high speed for too long. Go slow until you get the feel for it.

    -Shaky
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    I use a trim mate
    brassprep009.jpg
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    Whatever primer pocket uniforming tool you end up getting, make sure it's a fixed tool, not adjustable. I had one that had a collar. Was supposed to be "factory set". Problem was that as it was used, the collar slipped and pockets kept getting deeper and deeper.

    I now use a Redding in a cheap $20 cordless screwdriver I bought at my local Auto Parts Store.
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    Insight,
    Please tell me what I am doing wrong. I have a trim mate, but all attempts to uniform primer pockets result in the brass getting ripped from my fingers. The cutting tool digs in too deeply an makes it impossible for me to hold onto the brass. Clearly I'm missing some thing.
    Sorry for the hijack, but I have all but abandon my trim mate and this has been the first opportunity to seek greater knowledge.
    If it is more appropriate, PM me the answer.
    Thanks
    RD
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    I'm not Insight,
    Are you using swagged brass, the portion of brass that's swagged is pushed inside the pocket, and it is a SOB to uniform.
    Holy shit, 4 years and one post, I wish I had your disipline!!
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    Rowdy,
    The trim mate is by far the easiest and least painful method I have found. It still causes a lot of pain and has blistered my fore finger and thumb. First make sure there is no crimp left on the brass. Then grab the brass and hold as tightly as possible and press down firmly. I use a slight twisting motion to the left with thumb pressure. It is really quite painful but well worth it.
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    With smaller cases like the 223 I use the Wilson case holders for their trimmer to hold the brass, much easier on arthritic fingers
    smile.gif
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    Rowdy,
    Another trick also on swagged brass, buy a lyman vld chamfer tool, run it in trim mate. Clean the line in the primer pocket out with it, takes time, but makes it much easier.
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rowdydog</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Insight,
    Please tell me what I am doing wrong. I have a trim mate, but all attempts to uniform primer pockets result in the brass getting ripped from my fingers. The cutting tool digs in too deeply an makes it impossible for me to hold onto the brass. Clearly I'm missing some thing.
    Sorry for the hijack, but I have all but abandon my trim mate and this has been the first opportunity to seek greater knowledge.
    If it is more appropriate, PM me the answer.
    Thanks
    RD </div></div>

    Any chance you using the large primer tool on a small pocket? Sorry if that's too obvious, but I think we've all made a few mistakes like that over the years.
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MJY65</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rowdydog</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Insight,
    Please tell me what I am doing wrong. I have a trim mate, but all attempts to uniform primer pockets result in the brass getting ripped from my fingers. The cutting tool digs in too deeply an makes it impossible for me to hold onto the brass. Clearly I'm missing some thing.
    Sorry for the hijack, but I have all but abandon my trim mate and this has been the first opportunity to seek greater knowledge.
    If it is more appropriate, PM me the answer.
    Thanks
    RD </div></div>

    Any chance you using the large primer tool on a small pocket? Sorry if that's too obvious, but I think we've all made a few mistakes like that over the years. </div></div>

    OMG,
    I wanted to ask, but didn't dare.
    smile.gif
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MJY65</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rowdydog</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Insight,
    Please tell me what I am doing wrong. I have a trim mate, but all attempts to uniform primer pockets result in the brass getting ripped from my fingers. The cutting tool digs in too deeply an makes it impossible for me to hold onto the brass. Clearly I'm missing some thing.
    Sorry for the hijack, but I have all but abandon my trim mate and this has been the first opportunity to seek greater knowledge.
    If it is more appropriate, PM me the answer.
    Thanks
    RD </div></div>

    Any chance you using the large primer tool on a small pocket? Sorry if that's too obvious, but I think we've all made a few mistakes like that over the years. </div></div>

    That's what first came to my mind, but then the crimped brass kind of makes more sense.

    Hope you get it figured out.
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 427Cobra</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Uniformimg the pockets with a high speed tool such as a drill can ruin the pocket by enlarging it slightly, never go faster than what cordless drills go which is around 100rpm. I found RCBS/Lyman uniformers are not high quaility tools compared to a Sinclair one piece uniformer, the Sinclair is solid carbide compared to just the ends of the blades on lower quaility tools. </div></div>

    I use a redding uniformer that's put into a corded drill. I usually do 3 full speed 1-2 second bursts for the pocket to be cleaned on my Winchester and lapua brass. To be honest, I hate priming so much because even on my 3rd firing, using the uniformer between each, it's still a tight fit into the pockets with the primer.

    So your results may vary with the corded drill.
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: insight3b</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use a trim mate
    brassprep009.jpg
    </div></div>

    PM inbound, I would love to know exactly which flash hole debur and primer pocket uniforming tools you ahve attached to your trimmate. I have a trimmate but for the life of me cannot find those particular tools/attachments. I am probably using poor search names, but if you can shed some light, I would most genuinely appreciate it sir.

    I would also like to get the same tools for a .308 (large primer) set up.

    Thank you!
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    I just use RCBS primer pocket uniformer, large and small.
    I'm not sure if the other brands listed have the same threads or not.

    Can't help on the flash hole tool, I know the lyman fits, I have one but don't use it.
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    I use a Sinclair PPU as well. Its a great tool and its tough. I use it every time I reload to clean the pockets. I have done thousands of peices and am still waiting for it to get dull. I dont have the holder they seel for it I just chuck it up in my drill and have at it.

    To the guy who was having the brass ripped from his fingers I have found if the PPU isnt square in the pocket it will bite on the pocket wall and spin the brass. So be sure you are holding it square and go slow till you get the feel for it.
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    I find that wearing a heavy mil (nitrile) rubber glove when case prepping really helps. You dont have to squeeze the case as hard to hold on to it, and the rubber provides a non slip grippiness.
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Boogaloo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I find that wearing a heavy mil (nitrile) rubber glove when case prepping really helps. You dont have to squeeze the case as hard to hold on to it, and the rubber provides a non slip grippiness. </div></div>

    I've tried this or a pair of gardening gloves (the kind that look like thick golf gloves).
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    Trim mate, RCBS small/large uniformer, nitrile gloves. Works great.

    The Lyman tools also thread right in. I get better results with the RCBS VLD inside deburring tools the Lyman outside deburring tool(3 points that stick up). I also put a wire brush on to clean necks, use the next caliber larger than what you're loading for.

    What do you guys use for crimp removing? I am debating whether to get a bench swaging tool or the new RCBS tool for the trim mate.
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    All the tools that install in my trim mate are RCBS. I use a dillon super swage 600 to remove the primer crimp on mil brass but the the RCBS cutter installed in my trim mate for those cases that won't fit easily in the uniformer. I trim chamfer/deburr with a giraud.
    brassprep005.jpg

    brassprep006.jpg
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    Thanks guys,
    I am using the correct size pocket uniformer, still worth asking as it's the little things in life that get you. The nitrate glove suggestion is a good one. I'll give that a go and make double sure I'm coming down square on the cutting tool.

    No, I'm not much on posting, but read a lot. Search function has served me well. Appreciate all the replys.
     
    Re: powered primer pocket uniforming...

    Just make sure you get thick "nitrile" not "nitrate" gloves.
    The ones I use are beefy and made by <span style="font-weight: bold">Ultragard</span>. They are the "ET" version which are categorized as "high risk" protective gloves. They last through lacquer thinner, acetone and a lot of other heavy duty liquids. As a consequence, they work really well for gripping small parts like brass cases against spinning tools.

    The generic "nitrile" gloves you get a Harbor Freight are way too thin to be effective. They work ok, but they quickly tear and are useless.

    31lwfk8KhZL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


    You can find them on Amazon but they are not cheap. I buy a case of them at a time (10 boxes) because I only have to buy them once every 2 or 3 years at that rate.

    Get the good ones, and you will find you use them for everything.