I recently learned many alloy framed 1911's can/will crack in the area around the slide lock window. I want to prevent this from happening, so I thought I tap into some of the expertise here on the Hide. First some history:
I own a Para Ordnance alloy framed 1911. It's the early model of the high capacity .45 APC (13+1)upgrade kit made in the late 80's - first product they ever made. All other components came from a Springfield 1911-A1 donor.
Currently, my rig doesn't have any signs of cracking, or significant wear. I've put 900+ rounds through it and none have been hot loaded or of the +P variety. When I built up this pistol I also added the Wilson Combat full length Shok-Buff recoil system. I'm thinking the above has prevented cracks from occurring up to this point.
I've always run the "Reduced Power Heavy-Duty" recoil spring from Wilson Combat, but now I'm wondering if I should be using the "Extra-Power Heavy-Duty" recoil spring to further reduce shock to the frame. Is this advisable, or will I create new problems with standard load?
Any other advise/tip will be appreciated.
FWIW - this pistol is the only one I can reliably hit where I aim it - I generally suck with pistols. It's very accurate and I like the way it fits, feels and handles. Besides I'm attached to it and I have 5 high capacity mags for it. Now that CC is legal in Wisconsin, I'm working more on my handgun skills. Ultimately, I want to be able to CC this pistol in certain situations.
Through research I did learn about the recommended fixes for cracks in the frame around the slide lock. 1.) Drill stop the crack. 2.) Cut out the rail section, above the slide lock window, if it cracks.
Anything else?
Thanks
I own a Para Ordnance alloy framed 1911. It's the early model of the high capacity .45 APC (13+1)upgrade kit made in the late 80's - first product they ever made. All other components came from a Springfield 1911-A1 donor.
Currently, my rig doesn't have any signs of cracking, or significant wear. I've put 900+ rounds through it and none have been hot loaded or of the +P variety. When I built up this pistol I also added the Wilson Combat full length Shok-Buff recoil system. I'm thinking the above has prevented cracks from occurring up to this point.
I've always run the "Reduced Power Heavy-Duty" recoil spring from Wilson Combat, but now I'm wondering if I should be using the "Extra-Power Heavy-Duty" recoil spring to further reduce shock to the frame. Is this advisable, or will I create new problems with standard load?
Any other advise/tip will be appreciated.
FWIW - this pistol is the only one I can reliably hit where I aim it - I generally suck with pistols. It's very accurate and I like the way it fits, feels and handles. Besides I'm attached to it and I have 5 high capacity mags for it. Now that CC is legal in Wisconsin, I'm working more on my handgun skills. Ultimately, I want to be able to CC this pistol in certain situations.
Through research I did learn about the recommended fixes for cracks in the frame around the slide lock. 1.) Drill stop the crack. 2.) Cut out the rail section, above the slide lock window, if it cracks.
Anything else?
Thanks