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Primer pocket uniforming

raw outdoors

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Minuteman
Sep 28, 2012
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I have the pocket uniformer form RCBS I hooked it up to my electric drill and uniformed some new Nosler brass but it seemed there was a lot of shavings, could I be cutting to deep? The uniformer has a stopper but it seems the uniformed primer pockets are quite deep compared to the factory pockets. I'm worried when it gets nasty cold the firing pin might not hit deep enough on the uniformed brass now. Any experts in this field?
 
I have the pocket uniformer form RCBS I hooked it up to my electric drill and uniformed some new Nosler brass but it seemed there was a lot of shavings, could I be cutting to deep? The uniformer has a stopper but it seems the uniformed primer pockets are quite deep compared to the factory pockets. I'm worried when it gets nasty cold the firing pin might not hit deep enough on the uniformed brass now. Any experts in this field?

just seat a primer in one, if it seats more than about .003"-.004" deeper than the base it is a bit much and will effect the the optimun penitration of the firing pin. If this is the case replace your uniformer.
 
Was there a specific problem with your loads that you were trying to correct by working the primer pockets?
 
I just bought a case prep station and thought the same thing when I started uniforming primer pockets. I searched for specs and from what I measured it was in spec but haven't actually shot any yet.
 
i got scared when i seen how deep they seated after uniforming so i set those aside and only reloaded with the the brass that where not uniformed. i have had a couple batches of brass now that had very tight pockets and it seemed i was putting to much pressure to get the primers in, so i tryied uniforming them and rn into this issue.
 
I never mess with the pocket uniforming, I do uniform the flash holes, and ream any crimps on the LC brass.I never wanted to chance loosening the pockets by uniforming them. Never had a problem seating with the RCBS bench mounted seater, it works better than any other I ever used.
 
Don't use a drill for anything; I uniform primer pockets by hand with the RCBS tool.
It also works great to clean the pocket, you just don't push hard. The cutter is on the
bottom, be careful to put the tool is straight so not to remove anything from side.
Done right it makes for a better loaded round.
 
I've never seen that a uniformed case had any effect on accuracy. It's nice to clean up the pocket and have them all seat the same (feel it going in), but other than that there is no accuracy aspect.

Going too deep means you are weakening the web a bit. Try the sinclair tool, they go the exact depth required and have a fixed stop so you can not adjust or go too deep.
 
Agree with ArmyJerry, flash holes only here. Found sometimes could result in pockets loosening early if i mess with them. Last time I messed with the pockets was with some Norma brass and that was because they were extremely tight to the point I would crush some primers while seating them.
 
I used to prep the hell out of my brass neck turn (all but Lapua), chamfer the flash hole, uniform the PP, weigh and segregate, set neck tension to 0.0015" ect... But now all I do is uniform the PP and run Lapua brass. However even with Lapua brass and a Sinclair uniformer I get a pretty fair amount of shavings out of new brass. To be honest the only reason I uniform any more is because I clean the PP with the uniformer. So as mentioned measure a seated primer and if they are not too deep don't worry about it.
 
I just uniformed 100 LC once fired cases today, will do full retard prep on this 100, neck turn, anneal, pockets FH, neck turn, and will shoot next to my normal prepped LC once fired brass just to compare.

I never mess with the pocket uniforming, I do uniform the flash holes, and ream any crimps on the LC brass.I never wanted to chance loosening the pockets by uniforming them. Never had a problem seating with the RCBS bench mounted seater, it works better than any other I ever used.
 
I also use the RCBS primer uniforming tool.
Mine sets the primers quite deep at 0.008" which is actually 0.003" below SAAMI spec.
I have tried these in all 4 of my .308 rifles including my 2 M14 pattern rifles and have never had a primer not ignite in over 8,000 rounds.
I use Federal 210M primers exclusively in my M14 pattern rifles with never a slam fire either.
As a matter of fact I've chambered the same round at least 5 times without there ever being a hint of impact on the primer from the floating firing pin.

I've shot these down to -35F with no ill effects.

I am in the process of prepping 1,000 pcs of LC brass including uniforming the primer pockets as we speak. 500 more to go.
 
I also uniform pockets and mine do seat a touch deeper too. No problems with fed 210m but I had several duds using rem9 1/2. So I threw those in the bonfire and use cci200 or fed 210m exclusively
 
Primer hole prep

I've been using the Sinclair tool with an electric screwdriver on FGMM once fired brass. With some it hardly cuts any chips, but with others it seems to generate quite a few chips. All seem to have a good solid feel when hand seating the primers. I've never experienced any loose primers, though.
 
Primer pocket uniforming

Save your time and money: You don't need to uniform primer pockets unless you are shooting Benchrest.
 
Seems like the more you work the primer pockets the sooner primers will loosen and you'll have to discard the brass. Flash holes don't have to be camphered on Lapua brass, since they're drilled. Nosler does all the prep for you and you open the box and start loading!
 
It's my OCD Graham...anyhow, it takes the same work whether I just clean them with brush or unform

Get a Stainlees Steel tumbling set-up and forget about cleaning primers by hand.


Seems like the more you work the primer pockets the sooner primers will loosen and you'll have to discard the brass. Flash holes don't have to be camphered on Lapua brass, since they're drilled. Nosler does all the prep for you and you open the box and start loading!

100% agree on these points.


I wonder if anyone has run a test...Same load, Same lots of everything...the only difference being primer pocket uniforming...and if they saw any significant difference...?