PTR91 Build

[Horhey232]

Hey guys thought I post up some stuff about a build I just started. So after shopping around and looking at .308 semi-autos to do medium to long range shooting with I decided to go with the PTR91-KF. I have a good amount planned for it but it comes with a 16" barrel which is too short but I mean what do I know. I want to get a 20" match barrel that PTR puts on their PTR91-SS but it seems like I can not find one. I am debating going with the RCM PSG-1 (22") Barrel but it is pretty steep in cost but I know there is no cheap way to go when it comes to quality. I plan on shooting some 147 or 150 grain .308 until I start getting into reloading (after the rifle is built). I plan on getting Williams Trigger Specialties to modify my trigger to take out the slack in it and also install an ambi selector on it. I also really like the Magpul stock they make for the G3 pattern rifle. Tell me what you guys think because I really am open to input! Pics to follow while its being built!

Correction: I meant a 25.5" RCM barrel

 

[adamwade]

I used to have a williams set trigger for my HKSR9. It was really nice. It took the standard pull way down and made it short and sweet, but still combat safe. Then you could always "set" the trigger and have it even lighter for a specific shot. The nice part was that you could "un set" the trigger as well.

 

[ORD]

STOP WHAT YOU ARE DOING NOW AND THINK THIS THROUGH BEFORE YOU BLOW A LARGE SUM OF TIME AND MONEY ON SOMETHING THAT MAY NOT EVEN COME CLOSE TO GETTING THE JOB DONE YOU WANT TO DO!!!

Take a step back and determine what your specific wants/needs are for a semi-auto, the ranges you want to shoot, the accuracy you want/need to obtain, and perhaps most importantly, your budget and timeframe for its completion, and then revisit with a list of those goals because I have a nasty feeling that you may be headed in the wrong direction in a hurry.

I have built, worked on and otherwise owned more HK rifles and aftermarket, custom variations thereon over the years than I care to count. While I am still a certified HK-o-phile with more than a few left in the herd, no matter how much time, money, energy, reloading, customizing, etc. you throw into any of them...for a long-range precision semi-auto, you are really barking up the wrong tree with any 91-based build unless your idea of "precision" is no more than roughly MOA (maybe a little better...maybe not...on a good day with the best components and smithing available to build it, ammo tailored to the rifle, a highly competent shooter, etc. short of a full-on Murray Urbach PSG-1 build for BIG $$) and you have more money than you know what to do with. Again...it really comes down to what your ultimate goals are in terms of the level of accuracy you want to achieve and the max ranges you plan to shoot, but there are VASTLY better options for doing what you want to do that will run better and be more accurate right out of the box, be easier and FAR cheaper to work on (at home and not through a smith with the equipment/tools needed to do some of the bigger work you are looking at which will further reduce your costs), and will do anything and everything you want at a mere fraction of the price and headache of an HK variant build.

Furthermore, "precision" reloading for any HK action like the 91-clone you are specing now, is going to result in a good deal of frustration with destruction of brass in fairly short order. Yes, a port buffer can help considerably to reduce SOME of the wear/tear, but you'll still get half (or less) of the useful brass life compared to any modern semi-auto platform rifle, even if you run some of the strongest brass out there.

The Magpul PRS2 stock for the HK-pattern rifles is a nice option and it is certainly packed with nice features for a small fraction of the cost of a PSG-1 or MSG-90 (or even an SG1) type stock, BUT...they are not setup to run anything but the standard buffer without hacking away at the stock a fair bit. Yes...it can be done so that you can run the heavy buffer or even the Enhanced buffer for the MSG/PSG series rifles, but it can compromise the integrity of the stock and create issues for you down the line. That means you are relatively stuck with the std buffer or you'll have to finding something in the aftermarket not as good as a heavy/enhanced buffer that will work without modification of the stock. The recoil of any of the HK91 series rifles/clones is fairly stout...especially with heavier match pills...if you don't take such enhancements/modifications into account in your build which generally only further hampers the overall accuracy potential of the rifle.

The Rim Country/Schneider P5 polygonal PSG-style barrels are extremely nice tubes, but as you have noted...they are FAR from cheap at ~$900 not including installation (as you'll quickly find with ALL things HK-related) or other required (or at least recommended) upgrades. I also don't think I've ever seen a 22" model...they are generally PSG-1 spec'd to ~25.5" unless you are having it cut down to 22". They are capable, if properly assembled into a PSG/MSG style rifle of achieving excellent accuracy. HOWEVER...while that barrel WILL work with the stock 91 trunion your current PTR has in it...if you are serious about really getting THE most out of your build with that LONG and HEAVY barrel, you are going to have to opt for the longer/stouter PSG/MSG trunion depending on which barrel you end up with, which will in turn create more time and expenditure of funds. Furthermore, putting a high end barrel on the rifle isn't going to achieve jack without also opting up to a free-floating style forearm/handguard system like the one found on the MSG/PSG series rifles or from various aftermarket sources. Same for welding on the T-rails to strengthen/improve the rigidity of the otherwise not-so-rigid receiver (at least rigid in terms of a precision rifle build).

The Williams trigger jobs are nice...but they still aren't technically "precision" triggers unless you are talking about the set trigger option which I don't like for my own use...YMMV. The work that Bill Springfield does on HK trigger packs is also excellent in every respect and a fair bit cheaper too and you'll achieve roughly comparable results to the Williams job.

I haven't even scratched the surface on all the stuff you'll likely find yourself wanting (or outright having) to have done to get the rifle into shape and the money you'll be throwing into the cavernous HK pit, but you are already in the hole a fair bit having bought a complete rifle to start a fairly significant project on in lieu of building up from components instead of getting stuck with a bunch of junk parts you'll have in the scrap pile or getting a little money back out of when you replace them. Anyway...I've taken up enough bandwidth of stuff you probably don't want to hear (or may even already know), but if you have any specific questions or concerns, post them up or see if perhaps I've addressed them in any of my other threads on HK-platform rifles floating around the Hide. Also, you might have a long read through the volumes of info on 91-to-PSG and like threads at HKPro if you have not done so already. Tons of great, informative and instructive info there on the project you are embarking upon.

 

[Strykervet]

Listen to ORD. HK fucks up brass like nobody's business. They aren't meant to be reloaded for. Chamber is fluted (usually) and the brass always seems to slam into the receiver. They're finicky if they aren't built well too. Had one, hated it, sold it within months.

I blew more than I should have working up an FAL too. Stupid. But I wanted to see what I could do. I could have had a nice AR instead.

If you want a good semi 7.62 rifle, the AR is really the way to go. There's a reason that platform is so popular in US. As to which 7.62 AR, I can't say from experience other than the DPMS LRR was a POS. AR has edged out the M14 too, which when I was younger was THE 7.62 rifle to have. There wasn't even a debate about it, and when we first went into 'stan and Iraq that was the rifle we were begging for. Today I understand it's a new KAC rifle they all want. I almost got the KAC but couldn't find mags for shit all year and the KAC dealer never got back to me either.

IMHO, HK is most popular for their over-inflated prices. Hell, they copied an M4 and slapped a $4000 price tag on it. Say what you want, but there isn't a hell of a lot they can do to an M4 that I can't and get similar or better results, depending.

 

[vtb]

No matter how hard you try you won't make it shoot like HK M308.
If you want HK for precision - buy HK MR308 (MR762) either 16.5" or 20". it will shoot 0,5MOA out of the box with handload and 1MOA with factory ammo all day long.

don't waste your time is this .308 MP5

 

[Horhey232]

Thanks for the input guys. My local range only goes out to 600 yards so I am pretty limited on range. My PTR91KF at the moment has a 16" barrel which I believe is a little short. I would love a 20" barrel but can not find one anywhere. I am not trying to turn this into a 1000 yard rifle or anything but want to make it more accurate that it's current configuration. So from the looks of it destroying brass I am going to run factory 147 gr Blazer Brass ammo.

 

[smschulz]

I agree that this is not the weapon to turn into a 'sniper rifle'.
I have the same rifle and just has Bill Springfield tune up the trigger and added an Aimpoint.
Nothing more needed to get the full potential out of this machine.
I have a bunch of mags and surplus ammo that keeps me perfectly satisfied.
YMMV

 

[Horhey232]

So I think what the conclusion is that if I want a semi-auto that is going to reach out and touch something it is going to be an AR10 platform. I do have a lot of mags for this already so maybe I will get the trigger done and change out the flash hider for a break and and add an optic and call it a day with that.

 

[ORD]

So I think what the conclusion is that if I want a semi-auto that is going to reach out and touch something it is going to be an AR10 platform. I do have a lot of mags for this already so maybe I will get the trigger done and change out the flash hider for a break and and add an optic and call it a day with that.

Reaching out and touching something can be achieved with the 91 and clones...it just comes at a high price, lots of time and patience, and with an understanding of the platform's limitations/drawbacks/etc. They were designed as primary/main battle rifles and just aren't particularly well-suited to roles outside of that with extremely limited exception. With some quality match-grade ammo from your PTR, you may be pleasantly surprised at what it is capable of doing, even out to 600yds. Only time, patience and a little trial and error will prove to you what its capable of as it sits (or with the upgrades you mentioned above). A Springfield trigger job for ~$50 is money well spent, as will be a brake which should help to tame the recoil at least somewhat. As for optics...you can go a variety of routes, but a high-quality mount is still a must as the garbage Chi-Com/airsoft/etc. and like mounts (UTG, B-Square quality type mounts in other words) will shoot loose and cause you more grief than you can imagine. Here's a link to one such mount that will serve you well and won't break the bank. A picatinny mount like the MFI linked to (versus a standard claw mount with built-in rings or a STANAG mount that you'll have to buy a separate picatinny Rail for) will allow you to run either a red-dot or like optic, or a magnified optic if you so choose. If you go with a magnified optic, try to keep the OAL of the scope down to 12" or less because if you don't, especially with optics with larger bells, you'll get interference from the cocking handle in the rearward/locked position.

Scope Mount HK | PTR Scope Mount - HKPARTS.NET

As for the AR platform being the better choice...you are absolutely correct. You can buy any number of quality large-frame AR platform rifles for well under $2k that will outshoot even some of the nicest, high-end HK rifles on the planet regardless of their price. By the time you factor the cost of your PTR91, then add just the cost of the barrel you were thinking about by itself, uninstalled, you could already have a sub-MOA capable large-frame AR in the safe and spend the remainder of all that you'd have in the clone for a good optic/mount/rings for the AR, mags, a bipod.

 

[Thumper580]

Save your time and money. Just buy a decent quality heavy barrel AR10 and go from there. My DPMS LR308 shoots 1/2" groups with proper hand loads. That will never happen with the HK style rifles.......

 

[beenjammin]

Also owned an urbach psg1 and Springfield hbcsr. Do yourself a favor and get a Jp or a GAP. The old roller lock rifles cannot compete with the top end ar10 choices. They destroy brass and are extremely filty to clean up. Sure the psg1 still looks cool but the buck stops there if ESP if you like to reload

 

[Horhey232]

So the new direction I am going with is probably going with a Vortex Viper PST 2.5-10x40 optic on a railed mount using the Burris PEPR mount. Barrel wise I may get the PTR 18" match grade barrel and add a Surefire .30 cal muzzle break to it. I still am a big fan of the Magpul stock so most likely go with that.

 

[ORD]

So the new direction I am going with is probably going with a Vortex Viper PST 2.5-10x40 optic on a railed mount using the Burris PEPR mount. Barrel wise I may get the PTR 18" match grade barrel and add a Surefire .30 cal muzzle break to it. I still am a big fan of the Magpul stock so most likely go with that.

Swapping from one PTR factory barrel (whether branded as a "match" barrel or not) to another factory tube will do virtually ZERO for accuracy. What it will do is buy you just a little more muzzle velocity and, therefore, a bit better range/terminal ballistics. A ~2MOA rifle is still a ~2MOA rifle (with good ammo and not surplus ball crap, etc., etc.) regardless of how fast you are pushing the bullets exiting the barrel.

That optic is one that I have seen and used on 91 clones in the past and its a good fit for the most part (and its actually a 2.5-10x44 SFP or 2.5-10x32 FFP depending on which one you were referring to). The best optics actually for most uses are the lower end variables like a 1-6x or 1.5-8x class. Plenty of magnification for reaching out to targets within the practical effective range of the rifle and a true 1x or close to it low end for closer up work, movers at closer ranges, etc. as it gives you a VERY wide FOV. I will urge you to rethink the addition of both a flattop receiver mount AND the PEPR mount. The cantilever style of the PEPR is likely to put your scope too far forward and may cause the interference with the cocking handle I mentioned above). The higher height is nice as it'll allow you to keep your rear sight installed since it should get the scope up high enough to clear, but an AR-high set of rings (you'll have to measure once you have your scope in hand to get a precise read) may be a better option in the long-run in lieu of the PEPR mount.

 

[adamwade]

Horhey232,

ORD opened up a great can of worms. I learned a few new things as well.

Don't feel you have to buy an AR if you still like the HK. I'm not saying don't get an AR, but that it's OK to want something different. SCAR17 maybe ?

All the above info is dead on, but HKG3 platform is still a great "classic" weapon. I had an original HK91 that was a true rare gem in terms of accuracy (standard rifling - not polygonal). It was stolen and replaced by an SR9 (longer barrel and free floated). The SR9 never shot well, even with that set trigger. So adding a longer barrel, better barrel, better trigger will not guarantee a great shooting HK91 style rifle. I believe the original HK G3 SG1 "sniper kits" were made from unusually accurate G3's that were discovered when test fired. They didn't make em that way, just got a lucky one a pull it off the line to add the stocks and scope. It's a roll of the dice that's not in your favor.

 

[Horhey232]

Well tomorrow is the moment of truth. I will be taking it out to the range for the first time in its standard configuration (bone stock no work) and we will see where to go from there. I like the Vortex Viper PST 2.5-10x32 FFP (We have one at work) and I thought of that mount because of its height. The forward mounting style might interfere but I really am a fan of the one piece construction.

The reason for the longer barrel is because it will give me that extra muzzle velocity because I know I am going to loose some with adding the Surefire .30cal muzzle break to it.

 

[ORD]

The reason for the longer barrel is because it will give me that extra muzzle velocity because I know I am going to loose some with adding the Surefire .30cal muzzle break to it.

I don't know where you are getting all this "information," but it is just wrong. The Surefire brake should NOT have any detrimental effects on MV...only the shorter, 16" barrel will do that to the tune of 50fps or so (YMMV) as compared to a longer, 18". I have owned and shot many rifles with a wide range of Surefire brakes (and FH) over the years and never experienced velocity discrepancies from any of them attributable to the brake. Furthermore...where did you even find an M15x1 threaded Surefire brake for an HK/PTR pattern barrel? I know they make FHs in M15x1, and brakes in M18x1 for the Sako and Steyr rifles and in M18x1.5 for the AIs, but I don't recall seeing any brakes in M15x1 (which your PTR barrel should be threaded for)?

If you WANT a 1pc mount to attach to the picatinny rail adapter for your clone...there are more than a few non-cantilever mounts out there on the market that will foot that bill and won't end up causing you problems. BUT...putting a 12" long optic on any HK clone with a cantilever mount like the PEPR is a recipe for problems with effectively operating the rifle with even a relatively small bell optic like the 2.5-10x32 PST because it will interfere with the operation of the cocking handle. The ADM-S mount is just one such non-cantilever mounting option that should offer you enough height to get the scope up over the rear sight, give you QD capability to fall back to the irons if you so need/choose, and will hold solid to the mount so you don't have to worry about anything shooting loose (not uncommon with some mounts on the HK platform rifles/clones).

 

[Ballista One]

STOP WHAT YOU ARE DOING NOW AND THINK THIS THROUGH BEFORE YOU BLOW A LARGE SUM OF TIME AND MONEY ON SOMETHING THAT MAY NOT EVEN COME CLOSE TO GETTING THE JOB DONE YOU WANT TO DO!!!

Word...

Furthermore...where did you even find an M15x1 threaded Surefire brake for an HK/PTR pattern barrel?

Is he just confusing break and flash hider?

 

[Horhey232]

Well I know a lot of people that work for Surefire and was going to see if I can get them to make me one. I was not aware that the thread patterns were off but I want to see if I can either get PTR to do the threads different (probably not going to happen) or if I can get Surefire to thread it differently. If all else fails I can go with the PWS FSC91.

I heard from some people that since a muzzle break redirects its gasses that the round looses some muzzle velocity. Guess that is not true. Then again I work at a place where customers will say just about anything and I have to decide whether the customer is blowing smoke out his ass to sound smart or it is legit.

 

[Ballista One]

Well I know a lot of people that work for Surefire and was going to see if I can get them to make me one.

I'm not trying to rain on your parade but there is zero chance this is going to happen. Unless you really, and I mean really, have a good understanding of roller locked guns, your experience with this rifle and any suppressor is going to be nothing short of disastrous.

 

[Strykervet]

Dude. Stop. Now. I know you're enthusiastic here, but just stop.

Learn when to abandon a project before getting too deep! That's what we're all telling you!

It's a battle rifle. Listen to ORD. Like he said, you can spend a bit on a nicer trigger job if you like, if that makes it feel better for you. If it shoots decent, and the barrel isn't shot out, don't worry about re-barreling it. Forget about the muzzle brake/flash hider unless what it's got is broken. It's a battle rifle.

I know. Again. I had one of these before, and I also have an FAL and I did all this shit to it. It still doesn't shoot much better than it did before. No less reliable, but no more accurate. And I wish like hell the money had gone to something else and it had stayed in the factory condition.

Personally, I wouldn't even bother with the optics mounts on it. Leave the drum irons. That money would be better directed to the AR platform. Or a quality semi M14. That's if you're actually serious about having a semi 7.62 that can shoot. The HK and the FAL are just not good long range platforms, period. IF you can get 'em to work, they're gonna be expensive. Not worth it expensive, never see that money again expensive. Get it?

 

[ORD]

Well I know a lot of people that work for Surefire and was going to see if I can get them to make me one. I was not aware that the thread patterns were off but I want to see if I can either get PTR to do the threads different (probably not going to happen) or if I can get Surefire to thread it differently. If all else fails I can go with the PWS FSC91.

I heard from some people that since a muzzle break redirects its gasses that the round looses some muzzle velocity. Guess that is not true. Then again I work at a place where customers will say just about anything and I have to decide whether the customer is blowing smoke out his ass to sound smart or it is legit.

Uhhh...sigh.

This entire project just has CLUSTER written all over it. I think you are getting some incredibly POOR advice, commentary...whatever you want to call it...from some real know-nothings where you work. If you work at a gun store...that certainly explains it.

Do yourself a favor...perform your own due diligence on this project and you decide what is on the up-and-up and what has no basis in reality. The advice you are getting here, while blunt and not optimistic for very good reason, you will find to be solid. But again...don't just believe me...look it up!

As for Surefire offering you a "custom" brake...don't bet on it by a long shot. The easiest and most cost-effective thing to do, if you simply MUST HAVE the Surefire brake...is to have the PTR barrel re-threaded for a more common thread pattern (i.e. - 5/8x24 would be a good option). The problem with that, at least on a 16" barrel, is that you can't re-thread the current M15x1 threads to 5/8x24 so that means cutting them off and then threading from behind the previous threads, but since the 16" barrel is already at its minimum length, you are looking at then having to permanently affix the brake once it is installed in order to meet the non-NFA, legal length. Another unnecessary and burdensome PITA for this particular rifle/project.

And before you go there...DO NOT go to the adapter bullshit either as I'm sure that'll be the next question/comment that gets made.

Just get any number of quality M15x1 threaded brakes/compensators available and use that in lieu of the SF. The PWS you mentioned is one...there are also several others out there. Google is your friend. Buy what's already made for the rifle if you must replace the existing muzzle device, but don't go off chasing your tail trying to shoehorn a solution to a problem that doesn't exist unless YOU make it one.

 

[EXTREMEPREJUDICE]

Tell me what you guys think because I really am open to input! Pics to follow while its being built!

Sometimes when meaning well input comes across as being negative and harsh. It's great that you have the battle rifle and would like to improve it but as advised you would be wasting your time and finances that could be better used for several reasons. First, while the PTR1 is an affordable option.........it is not a HK91 (in both quality and performance.) Second, unless the 91 was a PSG91 or perhaps a MSG90/MSG90A1 it would never close to a precision rifle. Your PTR1 is great at what is was designed for, an affordable clone of a classic battle rifle. Keep it as such, enjoy shooting the crap out of it, and spend your money on an alternative that would meet your precision requirements. Not a "Debbie Downer" here, just trying to answer your inquiry honestly.

 

[Horhey232]

So shooting it today for the first time and hearing what you guys have to say makes me realize that this is a money pit and that I can spend the funds more wisely on an AR10 which I was going to build into a battle rifle but the option of having different uppers makes me want to put my funds towards that instead of the PTR. The PTR is fun so I think I will keep it and at most get some trigger work done and mount a 1-4 optic to it. I am not a big fan of flash suppressors so I think I will still swap it with a PWS muzzle break.

Surprisingly not a lot of recoil coming out of PTR. I expected it to be a little crazy but it handled really nice.

 

[ORD]

So shooting it today for the first time and hearing what you guys have to say makes me realize that this is a money pit and that I can spend the funds more wisely on an AR10 which I was going to build into a battle rifle but the option of having different uppers makes me want to put my funds towards that instead of the PTR. The PTR is fun so I think I will keep it and at most get some trigger work done and mount a 1-4 optic to it. I am not a big fan of flash suppressors so I think I will still swap it with a PWS muzzle break.

^^^ FTW!!!!! ^^^

Glad you are getting all this sorted out. The PTR is a fine rifle when viewed in the right context and when NOT trying to morph it into something that it was never meant to be. I wouldn't think twice about keeping it in the safe and enjoying the hell out of it every chance you get...but it is, in no manner, even a close competitor with any of the large-frame ARs that you can buy/build on these days. Any such AR will be a far better use of your time and money for a "precision" rifle at longer ranges.

If you run into any addt'l issues or need to discredit any more BS that you hear at work (whether HK/Clone related or relating to your upcoming AR project)...let us all know.

 

[Horhey232]

^^^ FTW!!!!! ^^^

If you run into any addt'l issues or need to discredit any more BS that you hear at work (whether HK/Clone related or relating to your upcoming AR project)...let us all know.

Thank you ORD and that you everyone else for helping me make this decision. I still am in love with my PTR but now looking at it differently. I will post pics as soon as it comes all together.

 

[ORD]

I have a psg1 build in the works. I expect it to set me back many thousands of dollars to have built by GhillieBear @ HKpro and I dont imagine it will shoot any more accurate than my FNAR, but it sure will be cool to have... I paid a grand just for the Lothar Walther barrel 1:10 twist poly rifled, stainless, 7.62 match chamber, double hand lapped

You won't be disappointed in the extremely high quality of Jeff's work. He's simply one of the best around for working magic on the HK platform.

 

[Travis S]

Enjoy the ptr asa fun range toy. Seeing s you have CA listed in your profile isn't your list of rifles to choose from rather limited?

 

[Horhey232]

So took it to the local range and pings the 100 yard steel with out any effort. Looking into optics and coming to a few choices now. I am looking a a few options and was wondering on your input. I am looking at a Trijicon TA55A, or the Vortex Viper PST 2.5-10x32 FFP Riflescope w/ EBR-1 Ret. (MOA, 1st Focal Plane), or open to suggestions. Besides that going to leave most of the rifle stock except for the trigger job mentioned before, a PWS FSC91 for a .30 caliber, and possibly change out the stock to the Magpul.

 

[rcnpthfndr]

its all good advice, I went down this road years ago but after talking to some HK smiths, I still have the 25.5 barrel, PTR receiver and rheinmetall bolt carrier group sitting in the safe. I have a couple G3 clones one in Namibian furniture, another with Iranian stuff and a PTR target so my G3 itch isn't bad. but the money I saved went to optics and ammo for better platforms.

 

[ORD]

So took it to the local range and pings the 100 yard steel with out any effort. Looking into optics and coming to a few choices now. I am looking a a few options and was wondering on your input. I am looking at a Trijicon TA55A, or the Vortex Viper PST 2.5-10x32 FFP Riflescope w/ EBR-1 Ret. (MOA, 1st Focal Plane), or open to suggestions. Besides that going to leave most of the rifle stock except for the trigger job mentioned before, a PWS FSC91 for a .30 caliber, and possibly change out the stock to the Magpul.

You aren't going to want an ACOG of any variety on the PTR as getting a good cheek weld with it...even with the PRS2's adjustable comb...is going to be a real pain in the neck (PUN INTENDED)! Also, why limit yourself with a fixed, 5x optic when the others you are considering provide you with so much more in terms of flexibility, short and longer range use, vastly better reticles, etc., etc., etc. The PST 2.5-10x32 is a good option, as is its bigger, less expensive, SFP x44 brother (depending on your budget, needs/wants/etc.), as well as the SWFA SS 3-9x42.

Also, and we've discussed this before, but it is worthy of repeating...do NOT go cheap on a mounting system for the scope (both in terms of the mount/rail itself, and if you don't go for a traditional claw lock/integral mount/rings, don't skimp on the rings either). The MFI low-profile picatinny rail mounts are of very good quality, as are the B&T mounts if you can find one for a reasonable price in the states. Same with the HK OEM claw lock mounts (both the STANAG mounts and those with integral 30mm rings), but they are VERY pricey for original (~$ and you don't want a cheap imitation/copy as it'll be a real PAIN in terms of shooting loose, not holding zero, etc., etc. The STANAG mounts can be had for ~$200, then you can either opt for STANAG rings (~$) or there are companies that make picatinny rail sections for the STANAG mounting holes (~$20). The HK OEM mounts also have the sight channel in the mount that will allow use of the irons on the rifle which you'll lose if you go for a low-profile mount like the MFI/B&T/etc. Again...DO NOT BUY ONE OF THE @#$%^&* UTG, TAPCO, CHEAP CHICOM KNOCKOFF AIRSOFT QUALITY MOUNTS!!!

 

[Horhey232]

You aren't going to want an ACOG of any variety on the PTR as getting a good cheek weld with it...even with the PRS2's adjustable comb...is going to be a real pain in the neck (PUN INTENDED)! Also, why limit yourself with a fixed, 5x optic when the others you are considering provide you with so much more in terms of flexibility, short and longer range use, vastly better reticles, etc., etc., etc. The PST 2.5-10x32 is a good option, as is its bigger, less expensive, SFP x44 brother (depending on your budget, needs/wants/etc.), as well as the SWFA SS 3-9x42.

Also, and we've discussed this before, but it is worthy of repeating...do NOT go cheap on a mounting system for the scope (both in terms of the mount/rail itself, and if you don't go for a traditional claw lock/integral mount/rings, don't skimp on the rings either). The MFI low-profile picatinny rail mounts are of very good quality, as are the B&T mounts if you can find one for a reasonable price in the states. Same with the HK OEM claw lock mounts (both the STANAG mounts and those with integral 30mm rings), but they are VERY pricey for original (~$ and you don't want a cheap imitation/copy as it'll be a real PAIN in terms of shooting loose, not holding zero, etc., etc. The STANAG mounts can be had for ~$200, then you can either opt for STANAG rings (~$) or there are companies that make picatinny rail sections for the STANAG mounting holes (~$20). The HK OEM mounts also have the sight channel in the mount that will allow use of the irons on the rifle which you'll lose if you go for a low-profile mount like the MFI/B&T/etc. Again...DO NOT BUY ONE OF THE @#$%^&* UTG, TAPCO, CHEAP CHICOM KNOCKOFF AIRSOFT QUALITY MOUNTS!!!

I was going to go with MFI mount from HKparts.net and now I am looking at the Vortex and I was thinking about going with Leupold rings. Not sure on the rings just yet though. Leaning now towards the Vortex just worried that it might mess with the charging handle when it is all the way to the rear.

 

[ORD]

I was going to go with MFI mount from HKparts.net and now I am looking at the Vortex and I was thinking about going with Leupold rings. Not sure on the rings just yet though. Leaning now towards the Vortex just worried that it might mess with the charging handle when it is all the way to the rear.

The MFI Mount from Adam, in conjunction with high quality rings like those from Seekins (the Vortex Rings are re-branded Seekins rings with the Vortex logo on them), or Badgers or NF or...fill in the blank...should serve you well in conjunction with any of the Vortex optics previously mentioned. I've never been all that crazy about the Leupold rings, even the Mk4 rings, but to each their own. You'll likely want to get your mount in hand and installed before you decide on ring height as you'll need figure out the minimum height necessary to get the optic up high enough to clear the rear sight unless you plan to remove it (some people opt for that route as it gets the optic much lower which may help you not have to upgrade to the PRS2 stock or get an add-on cheek riser to get a good cheek weld on the rifle/optic combo.

While the x32 PST is nearly 13" long, because of the relatively small diameter bell shouldn't pose much of an issue as long as you don't move it too far forward on the MFI rail. Same with the x44 which is an inch shorter at only about 12", but it should still allow you access to the cocking handle for the traditional HK slap to charge the rifle. Where I see the problem with optics causing interference with the cocking handle is when people go nuts trying to mount up 50mm optics that are generally longer. A 2.25"+ bell, combined with added scope length, will give you headaches you don't want on any HK91/clone platform rifle.

 

[Horhey232]

Been awhile since I posted but a lot has changed on my PTR91KF. It now has a Magpul PRS stock (mainly because I wanted to be able to adjust the check weld to better use an optic) and has a MFI scope mount. Got a chance to talk to Michael Frost himself and he is a really nice guy and helped me through installing mine (I got mine used off a buddy in a trade and they had stripped set screws). I am now looking into muzzle devices and really like the PWS FSC91 but I need to find out if my current flash hider is removable (should be but I am going to email PTR to make sure). Also going to put a bottom rail on it so I can put a bipod on it. Still set on the 2.5x-10x Vortex optic or potentially a Leupold 3x-9x VX-R Patrol (30mm and with the TMR).

 

[Horhey232]

Hello again. Got that FSC91 and man do I recommend it to anyone looking at brakes for the PTR91. Thing shoots like a dream. Now all that is left is the trigger and scope. Pics soon!

 

[mewillis]

I agree with most postings about long range work with the 91. However I do have a PRS stock, BS trigger job and
a TA11-H .308 ret. ACOG on my 91. I have no problem with eye relief, cheek weld is perfect for me with the PRS,
and the factory front sight is aligned with the ACOG sight tunnel on the bottom. Works good for me even
though it's designed more for a flattop AR platform. I also have a 1.5-6 Meopta if I want more than the 3.5 power
the ACOG gives. The downside to the ACOG is it isn't cheap, but you do get what you pay for.

 

[henschman]

I think you're definitely on the right track leaving the PTR in more of a battle rifle configuration. Maybe think of it as a DMR type setup. I think a good 1-4x optic would be a great choice for that kind of setup. I had a 1-4x optic on an M-14 for a while and really liked it. I am a big fan of the Burris TAC30 and MTAC line. Good Philippine glass, useful BDC reticles that match M80 ball trajectory very well, and plenty durable.

 

[skeeterIII]

I really think my PSG-1 trigger group with its fine roller sear seems to work excellent for me. Maybe i just got a good one. Besides a few rare polygonal barrelled HK91's 9i think they only imported about 28) they also imported a "select" model that just shot exceptionally well. It was stamp "select" on the receiver.