Questions on Bergara HMR B14 bolt

GalilAce

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I've got bolt rifles with over 2k rounds through them that haven't had the bolt apart. I think you're worrying about a problem that generally isn't a problem. Hell, my savage that I started with has over 3K rounds through it. Still one of my most accurate rifles, bolt has been apart once not long after I got it when a hot load compressed the ejector a bit too much.
My HMR Wilderness is on the way. I will find out soon what I get into with this rifle.
 

whatsupdoc

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  • Dec 12, 2017
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    FYI,

    This bolt looks bad after 300 rds. Threads start to flatten. It looks like the changes made half way through from 2018 if we can believe the posts below.

    View attachment 7883711



    View attachment 7883707


    They come like that NEW the threads do not wear flat spots on the side of the shroud.

    The shroud on the left is the new steel shroud the one on the right is my old non steel one with over
    3K rounds on it. Both have flat threads.

    1654297132280.png
     

    Rocketmandb

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  • Nov 2, 2018
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    I got my Bergara Wildness last week and set it up.

    View attachment 7894618

    View attachment 7894620

    I used to have a Bergara HMR Pro in 6 CM and really liked it. You should like yours as well - for a first upgrade, look at swapping the trigger. Moving up to something like a TriggerTech Diamond will make a big difference.

    One thing I noticed about your pics is the mount you used for the scope. Why are you using a cantilever style? It's forcing your scope up pretty high and there is really no need for it.
     
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    GalilAce

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    I used to have a Bergara HMR Pro in 6 CM and really liked it. You should like yours as well - for a first upgrade, look at swapping the trigger. Moving up to something like a TriggerTech Diamond will make a big difference.

    One thing I noticed about your pics is the mount you used for the scope. Why are you using a cantilever style? It's forcing your scope up pretty high and there is really no need for it.
    The main reason is I can skip the scope ring alignment and lapping process. All my AR and AK used the similar style scope mount. They worked pretty well.
     

    KnowNothing256

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    The main reason is I can skip the scope ring alignment and lapping process. All my AR and AK used the similar style scope mount. They worked pretty well.
    Modern high-quality rings also avoid this issue if paired with a quality base.

    Not trying to knock your choice, just wanted to let you know that most of us don’t align or lap rings and still get great results.
     
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    KnowNothing256

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    Thanks. Roger that.
    If you decide to check out standard rings, I think ARC M10 (older model) or MBRACE (newer model, essentially the same) rings are the best on the market. They’ll change your life. Rifle looks good! Let us know how she shoots 👍
     

    GalilAce

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    If you decide to check out standard rings, I think ARC M10 (older model) or MBRACE (newer model, essentially the same) rings are the best on the market. They’ll change your life. Rifle looks good! Let us know how she shoots 👍
    Thanks. I got most of ammos I need. Still waiting for the Norma to come in. Hopefully one of the cheaper ammo can group well.

    1655661776385.png
     

    GalilAce

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    If you decide to check out standard rings, I think ARC M10 (older model) or MBRACE (newer model, essentially the same) rings are the best on the market. They’ll change your life. Rifle looks good! Let us know how she shoots 👍

    Also I am waiting for the 42" cleaning rod and bore guide to come in before heading to the range. I will follow Bergara's breakin process. All other parts have arrived and were installed.

    1655661932514.png
     

    GalilAce

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    If you decide to check out standard rings, I think ARC M10 (older model) or MBRACE (newer model, essentially the same) rings are the best on the market. They’ll change your life. Rifle looks good! Let us know how she shoots 👍
    Hi,

    Today is the 2nd trip to the range. 65 shots fired total. I zeroed the rifle at 100 yards and did 10 5 shots group. The first 5 groups are all with Hornady ELD Match. The result is just OK for now. Hopefully it will get better after the barrel is seasoned.

    5 groups of 5 shots: Hornady. 2 mins break between each group.

    Best: 1 moa.
    Worst: 2 moa
    Avg: about 1.25 moa

    1656195991450.png


    5 groups of 5 different ammos:

    1656196060065.png


    Not sure why all the shots are 1.5" high. The rifle was zeroed fine. The rifle was zeroed at 50 yards on the first trip. Today It took one shot to zero at 100 yards (center target). Then the scope was adjusted 10 cm left, right, up and down while aiming at the same spot. So the scope seems to work fine. It is puzzling why all groups are high when the real shooting started.

    1656196304880.png


    1656196565092.png

    1656196634158.png
     

    308pirate

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  • Apr 25, 2017
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    My guess is it will be very dirty inside your HMR Wilderness bolt. Let us know how it works. It could have an impact on reliability and accuracy.
    For someone with zero prior bolt action experience you sure seem to think to know what matters and what doesnt.
     

    308pirate

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    Hi,

    Today is the 2nd trip to the range. 65 shots fired total. I zeroed the rifle at 100 yards and did 10 5 shots group. The first 5 groups are all with Hornady ELD Match. The result is just OK for now. Hopefully it will get better after the barrel is seasoned.

    5 groups of 5 shots: Hornady. 2 mins break between each group.

    Best: 1 moa.
    Worst: 2 moa
    Avg: about 1.25 moa

    View attachment 7899233

    5 groups of 5 different ammos:

    View attachment 7899234

    Not sure why all the shots are 1.5" high. The rifle was zeroed fine. The rifle was zeroed at 50 yards on the first trip. Today It took one shot to zero at 100 yards (center target). Then the scope was adjusted 10 cm left, right, up and down while aiming at the same spot. So the scope seems to work fine. It is puzzling why all groups are high when the real shooting started.

    View attachment 7899239

    View attachment 7899245
    View attachment 7899246
    It's you, not the rifle.
     
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    redneckbmxer24

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    Not sure why all the shots are 1.5" high. The rifle was zeroed fine. The rifle was zeroed at 50 yards on the first trip. Today It took one shot to zero at 100 yards (center target). Then the scope was adjusted 10 cm left, right, up and down while aiming at the same spot. So the scope seems to work fine. It is puzzling why all groups are high when the real shooting started.

    Chinesium. Optic.
     

    308pirate

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    Would you please explain why a cantilever mount is not good for a bolt action? Bergara rifle has the adjustable comb.
    Your reasons for using one are wrong.

    Again, you don't know what you don't know but come to the forum with the most precision bolt action rifle knowledge in the world to argue why you're doing what you're doing.
     
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    JakeM

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    8261E820-F42E-464D-B3C0-8BEA578CCCCA.jpeg
    3FDA72CC-C074-4E87-B924-12E4FAB785DB.jpeg
    Try fgmm 130gr Berger’s. I can get it to 1/4” or 3/8” at 100 after I get warmed up.
     

    Rocketmandb

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    Would you please explain why a cantilever mount is not good for a bolt action? Bergara rifle has the adjustable comb.

    You just helped make @308pirate 's point. An adjustable comb (cheek riser) is not a reason to raise your scope higher.

    Two interrelated reasons why a cantilevered mount is inappropriate for the vast majority of modern bolt-action rifles:

    1) The engineering of it all.
    Cantilevered mounts were made for when you don't have the ability to have a mono-piece rail and need to mount solely at the rear of the action. The engineering issue with this is that you are putting the entire recoil force against one small area of the pic rail. While not an issue on an AR firing 223 and a smaller scope, with larger calibers (more recoil) the forces acting against a ~2lb optic take their toll on all the mounting hardware. You might get away with this, or you might not, depending on a variety of factors.

    2) Scope height
    Your scope is very high - and the mount is the reason. Any cantilever structure has to be more beefy due to the nature of their designs. In the case of mounts, that beefiness comes at the cost of scope height. Scope height in itself isn't necessarily bad, but the higher you go and the longer ranges you shoot at, the more opportunity there is for error due to your rifle/scope not being level.

    Personally, I try to get the bottom of the scope bell to be about 3/8" off the barrel, give or take, depending on the mount. The only one of my rifles that's higher is my 375, and that's only because at extreme elevations I need to be able to see past the end of the barrel.