I inquired about the micro cracks and shading on the display and a couple days later ups showed up to pick it up. So next day I boxed it up and they took it. A couple weeks later and it’s back like new.
Night Vision Reap IR battery housing issue? Cracked.....
- Thread starter GUNNER75
- Start date
Received an email this morning regarding my unit. I was quoted just shy of $5,000 to repair previously. This morning I get an offer to repair at 30% off that $5,000. I was informed that never happens with Electro optics.
I was directed to phone in a form of payment to move forward.
No specifics mentioned as far as replacing, sounds like repair.
Not sure what direction to go. I have only had email correspondence to this point. I opted to not involve my contact at Trijicon (he is aware of my issue but that is it).
It's a paperweight at this point, 30% doesn't do much. (my first thoughts)
Not to add insult to injury, but this thread is the exact reason why I find it relative to schedule each thermal/NV device as part of the home owners. Sure, it will cost you, but it's far less than the alternative.
Ok I thought the original quote had to do with talking to them about upgrading the unit not just fixing it?
3,500 is better than 5,000...
Them fixing the unit sounds even better though...
Wonder why we have one person sending in for a cracked housing and getting fixed easy enough... Then another guy that should fork out several grand...
Am I missing something obvious here?...
Did they say why repair is not covered under warranty?
The unit I sent into them is still under original warranty time frame. So I was glad they covered it.
The unit I sent into them is still under original warranty time frame. So I was glad they covered it.
So I've sat on this for a few days. FWIW, I'm not trying to slide anything in. I'm out of the warranty period (6 mo give or take) I cannot do anything about that. My battery housing is a legit issue. Covered. The split screen that happened to come about at the same damn time I was getting ready to send it in is unfortunate. This unit has been returned once right after purchasing it due to a glass issue and I was out of operation with it for three or four weeks (not mentioned previously) $3500 is better than $5000, I agree. Still not sure I'll put $3500 in that product. Still leaning on telling them to save money on shipping. Personally with the other stuff I'm into, I'd rather put the $3500 towards another PVS14 and or etc. I can pick up other thermals for detection a lot cheaper than $3500.
That sucks it’s just barely out of warranty. But another way to look at it is, is it worth putting 3500 into it to sell it. I would assume new parts have some type of warranty as a new paid for repair.
If unit would sell for $5500 recovering $2k beats losing entire amount spent.
If unit would sell for $5500 recovering $2k beats losing entire amount spent.
Myself and a shooting buddy were considering picking up thermal units this year. That has been put on hold for the time being due to COVID19 and work.
Having said that it came down to N-Vision and Trijicon. I will most definitely NOT be purchasing a Trijicon after reading some of the issues in this thread.
Having said that it came down to N-Vision and Trijicon. I will most definitely NOT be purchasing a Trijicon after reading some of the issues in this thread.
I had issues with my REAP IR right about of the gate, the OLED had dead pixels and there was debris in the unit that I could see...which only got worse with time. Also, I thought that the warranty covered the housing for lifetime, it's the electronics that are only covered for 1 year? All this being said, let's just say I dont have that Reap anymore and an N Vision now sits on my rifles.
Update 4-22-20. Received my REAP IR without prior email confirming it was heading my direction. Installed fresh batteries, unit powered up and appeared to perform as it should. Sure hope I can make it through the next year without dumping $4100 in repairs to my NV/Thermal equipment.
N
New style battery box or original type ?
New style battery box or original type ?
As i research my first thermal scope buy & am pretty much sold on a Reap-IR 35mm version 2 , it does seem Trijicon knew it had issues with the original horizontal battery compartment, hence the ruggedized vertical setup on on the new model. Add in the easy zero feature of Version 2 & the fact the price is the same as version 1 - seems like the one to buy. Just have to swallow hard on the asking price............
Thermal eats up battery power, like the Government eats up money.
Another important item to research is if the Reap V2 will allow you to use rechargeable RCR 123 batteries. For the cost of those units it would only seem logical their design engineers made that feature available, however if memory serves me correctly, I do not think you can use rechargeable RCR 123 batteries.
For me, that would be a deal killer.
I called Trijicon, they do not recommend rechargeables in their Thermals. Not a deal killer for me. The Reap-IR is one the best Thermal scopes on the market.
with a combination of the smallest size/resolution/build quality/features/warranty & reputation. I can get batteries cheaply as I use 123's in alot of gear.. Hey let's be honest -if somebody is going to spend $6400 on a scope are batteries going to be a financial hardship? Kind of like my new BMW X5 M50i - only gets 20 Mpg but has 523hp & 553lb torque. Does 0-60 in 3.9 sec. $90K - should I complain about the gas?
But here is another consideration to take into account. Right at the moment of truth when you engaging your target, ooops my dam thermal died. Reason I say that is I have a several buds that run Triji Hunters, Reaps and it always seems like their thermals die at the worst possible time.
One reason, is that a lot of Primary CR123 batteries get 1/4 to 1/2 used and then the users want to run the rest of it out on the next hunt. "Waste not, want not syndrome" So yea, some of that can be illuminated via putting a fresh set in every time you go out.
I run rechargeables or rechargeable externals on all my TWS and always start out with a fully charged system whether RCR123 or rechargeable external and have never had a unit go dead while out in the field. Plus with longer run times you don't have to worry about making battery swaps out in the field.
The Reap V2 is a pretty nice unit, Triji just needs to get their sh^t together in the 21st century regarding powering a TWS. It just personally chaps my ass to fork out that kind of money and have to live with substandard powering options in today's world cause some Engineer or Product Development manager has little understanding of real operational conditions out there.
I understand what your saying, but a couple points. First I think the reason the Reap-IR is designed for primary batteries is that they are well suited for the
device. They have a 10 year shelf life, usable in all extreme temperatures, stable output, ect. Rechargeables will drain down over time even if not used.
The voltage is different as well - primary are 3V while RC123 are 3.6V. Sensitive electronics have specific power requirements.
Keep in mind the Reap-IR is designed for tactical use not specifically hunting. Battery cost is not a important consideration.
I plan to use my for some hunting, but equally for tactical/ defense use. I'm not going to have it sitting on my SCAR 17s with partially depleted batteries if I need it.
Pulsar has rechargeable packs. But look at the size of their scopes. Huge. Resolution not in the same zip code as Trijicon. Plastic body. And what happens in a few years when they stop making the proprietary packs - your screwed.
And even for hunting purposes. Why would someone who has gone through the effort/planning/cost to night hunt - travel, preparation ect, start out with 1/4 or even 1/2 full batteries? Save them for non critical purposes like a flashlight or when using handheld - or just throw them out. We are not talking a huge cost here. I get Energizer 12 packs for $17.99 That's $3 a pair. Who cares in the big picture??
And I am not interested in external rechargables. Add weight & bulk. Apples to apples primary to rechargeable, primary 123's are 1500 mah vs 650-700 mah in rechargeables. So much longer runtime for primary even if rechageables could be used in the Reap.
Last edited:
Has no one come up with a V2 battery pack adapter like the V1?
@mrjoed2
"The voltage is different as well - primary are 3V while RC123 are 3.6V. Sensitive electronics have specific power requirements."
Actually RCR 123 come off the charger at 4.2 volts. The 3.6V is the nominal voltage they produce that is stated in the Specifications and/or printed on RCR 123 batteries.
"Keep in mind the Reap-IR is designed for tactical use not specifically hunting. Battery cost is not a important consideration.
I plan to use my for some hunting, but equally for tactical/ defense use. I'm not going to have it sitting on my SCAR 17s with partially depleted batteries if I need it."
For "tactical use" the ability to use rechargeable batteries is a huge plus. Especially if you sitting up on a mountain in Afghanistan for a long time. Foldable/Portable Military Issue solar panels are used to recharge batteries in remote environments quite often. So if the grid went down and you are out of Primary CR 123 how you gonna keep that Reap going?
"Apples to apples primary to rechargeable, primary 123's are 1500 mah vs 650-700 mah in rechargeables. So much longer runtime for primary even if rechageables could be used in the Reap."
Ok, that statement makes logical sense per the published mAh published rates between Primary and Rechargeable batteries.
However, here are the facts that I have tested repeatably in the field from about 100 degrees F down to 25 degrees F.
Obrtonics, Fenix and Keepower RCR 123 batteries that are rated at 700 mAh, run almost the same length of time as Primary CR123 that are rated at 1400 mAh. Now that just doesn't seem right but it is.
The only thing my simple mind can come up with to reconcile that is that the RCR 123 start out at a much higher Voltage (4.2V) than regular Primary CR123 3 Volt which typically start off at 3.25 Volts. Maybe someone with way more electronics understanding than me could explain that.
I hunt hogs long and hard all night sometimes and could not imagine not running rechargeable batteries. Thermal just eats the sh^t out of Primary batteries.
So if you plan on having to use that Reap in a "tactical environment" I assume it will be as a civilian in a SHTF situation. So you better stack up lots and lots of Primary CR123's. Resupply might be "unobtainium"
"The voltage is different as well - primary are 3V while RC123 are 3.6V. Sensitive electronics have specific power requirements."
Actually RCR 123 come off the charger at 4.2 volts. The 3.6V is the nominal voltage they produce that is stated in the Specifications and/or printed on RCR 123 batteries.
"Keep in mind the Reap-IR is designed for tactical use not specifically hunting. Battery cost is not a important consideration.
I plan to use my for some hunting, but equally for tactical/ defense use. I'm not going to have it sitting on my SCAR 17s with partially depleted batteries if I need it."
For "tactical use" the ability to use rechargeable batteries is a huge plus. Especially if you sitting up on a mountain in Afghanistan for a long time. Foldable/Portable Military Issue solar panels are used to recharge batteries in remote environments quite often. So if the grid went down and you are out of Primary CR 123 how you gonna keep that Reap going?
"Apples to apples primary to rechargeable, primary 123's are 1500 mah vs 650-700 mah in rechargeables. So much longer runtime for primary even if rechageables could be used in the Reap."
Ok, that statement makes logical sense per the published mAh published rates between Primary and Rechargeable batteries.
However, here are the facts that I have tested repeatably in the field from about 100 degrees F down to 25 degrees F.
Obrtonics, Fenix and Keepower RCR 123 batteries that are rated at 700 mAh, run almost the same length of time as Primary CR123 that are rated at 1400 mAh. Now that just doesn't seem right but it is.
The only thing my simple mind can come up with to reconcile that is that the RCR 123 start out at a much higher Voltage (4.2V) than regular Primary CR123 3 Volt which typically start off at 3.25 Volts. Maybe someone with way more electronics understanding than me could explain that.
I hunt hogs long and hard all night sometimes and could not imagine not running rechargeable batteries. Thermal just eats the sh^t out of Primary batteries.
So if you plan on having to use that Reap in a "tactical environment" I assume it will be as a civilian in a SHTF situation. So you better stack up lots and lots of Primary CR123's. Resupply might be "unobtainium"
Not to my knowledge. I think that door on top is the problem. On the other Reap V1 it was pretty simple to just build an extension that screwed on to the battery housing. The Reap V2 trap door on top is a much harder obstacle to overcome. Not saying it cant be done, just haven't seen a solution yet.
All Triji had to do was put a step down voltage regulator in the Reap V2 that could handle from 5 Volts then step down to 3.25 and they would have had a winner with the Reap V2. About a $5 dollar part. Guess that would have dug into profits too much.
I'm not aware of IR Defense or following, TriJicon, has sold a single Reap/IR unit to the military yet.
But, they've sold the majority of their inventory to the civilian market, who are using it for hunting, and not tactical.
Hmmm
And last I knew, the reason the majority of the manufacturers dont recommend rechargeable batteries was the initial freaky high to low outputs in the first generations of rc....
And some of the more serious users here have recently documented which rc's are the most consistent and which ones they have learned to trust.
Havent seen a socom user post on here yet that I know of.
Maybe I've missed something.
JFWIW, mil std is L91AA, and I'm not aware of any other mil nv unit besides flir t70 that could run on 123's, bc it had the dual box, AA and 123, and a bunch of boxes, ahhh, combusted...
But, I could have missed something.
But, they've sold the majority of their inventory to the civilian market, who are using it for hunting, and not tactical.
Hmmm
And last I knew, the reason the majority of the manufacturers dont recommend rechargeable batteries was the initial freaky high to low outputs in the first generations of rc....
And some of the more serious users here have recently documented which rc's are the most consistent and which ones they have learned to trust.
Havent seen a socom user post on here yet that I know of.
Maybe I've missed something.
JFWIW, mil std is L91AA, and I'm not aware of any other mil nv unit besides flir t70 that could run on 123's, bc it had the dual box, AA and 123, and a bunch of boxes, ahhh, combusted...
But, I could have missed something.
Last edited:
I am heavily invested in the primary 123 battery. Probably have a dozen weaponlights & lasers from Surefire & Streamlight that use them. Plus at least that many flashlights that use 123 & 18650. And I would not consider using rechargeables in them as over time they lose their charge even when not used.
Don't get me wrong I wish the Reap would use rechargeables. But the only other choice in a 640/480 -12 micron in a thermal would be the Halo that can take rechargeables. I have several issues with it. First I don't want a 50mm - to small a field of view for overall work.& large/heavy. And the 25mm is less that the Reap 30mm which really is a ideal size/field of view. Definitely do not like the plastic body, really low rent for a $6000-7000 scope.(Reap is all aircraft grade aluminum) Also prefer the thumstick controller over a bunch of buttons. And the company does not have much history or track record. Trijicon does.
I know police departments use the Reap. It also is well know for it's excellent quick release return to zero mount. I think I will do just what you said
stock up on lots of primary 123's. Will cover alot of gear.
But here is another consideration to take into account. Right at the moment of truth when you engaging your target, ooops my dam thermal died. Reason I say that is I have a several buds that run Triji Hunters, Reaps and it always seems like their thermals die at the worst possible time.
I also know you mentioned guys running the Trijicon thermals had scopes dying due to dead batteries.But the battery meter is very accurate - how can that happen if your paying attention? And is there something magical about rechargeable 123's? Don't those scopes die when their batteries poop out? That makes no sense whatsoever. Sounds like a little bias here, unless your scope using rechargeables only dies at the best possible time.
Last edited:
@mrjoed2
"I also know you mentioned guys running the Trijicon thermals had scopes dying due to dead batteries.But the battery meter is very accurate - how can that happen if your paying attention? "
Adrenaline man, adrenaline. If you ain't never seen them boys at War with them Taliban Hogs we got round here you ain't never lived.
Gaston Glock was directed to build a pistol that was
1. Cheap in Price
2. Reliable
3. Idiot proof so that is why it does not have a Manuel Safety. Cause amped up adrenaline can make many fail to remember to flip the Manuel Safety off and it don't go KaPow. Guess they weren't too worried about negligent discharges however.
Tu Lam says: "Anyone that can't remember to flip a Manuel Safety off needs more training."
So them guys that don't watch their battery meters must need more training and less adrenaline.
" And is there something magical about rechargeable 123's? Don't those scopes die when their batteries poop out? That makes no sense whatsoever. Sounds like a little bias here, unless your scope using rechargeables only dies at the best possible time. "
You missed the important point I stated in my previous post, which was each time you go out it is really convenient to start the night out with fully charged rechargeables that have a pretty long run time vs trying to use up 1/4 to 1/2 previously used Primary CR123.
"I also know you mentioned guys running the Trijicon thermals had scopes dying due to dead batteries.But the battery meter is very accurate - how can that happen if your paying attention? "
Adrenaline man, adrenaline. If you ain't never seen them boys at War with them Taliban Hogs we got round here you ain't never lived.
Gaston Glock was directed to build a pistol that was
1. Cheap in Price
2. Reliable
3. Idiot proof so that is why it does not have a Manuel Safety. Cause amped up adrenaline can make many fail to remember to flip the Manuel Safety off and it don't go KaPow. Guess they weren't too worried about negligent discharges however.
Tu Lam says: "Anyone that can't remember to flip a Manuel Safety off needs more training."
So them guys that don't watch their battery meters must need more training and less adrenaline.
" And is there something magical about rechargeable 123's? Don't those scopes die when their batteries poop out? That makes no sense whatsoever. Sounds like a little bias here, unless your scope using rechargeables only dies at the best possible time. "
You missed the important point I stated in my previous post, which was each time you go out it is really convenient to start the night out with fully charged rechargeables that have a pretty long run time vs trying to use up 1/4 to 1/2 previously used Primary CR123.
Last edited:
@mrjoed2
"I also know you mentioned guys running the Trijicon thermals had scopes dying due to dead batteries.But the battery meter is very accurate - how can that happen if your paying attention? "
Adrenaline man, adrenaline. If you ain't never seen them boys at War with them Taliban Hogs we got round here you ain't never lived.
Gaston Glock was directed to build a pistol that was
1. Cheap in Price
2. Reliable
3. Idiot proof so that is why it does not have a Manuel Safety. Cause amped up adrenaline can make many fail to remember to flip the Manuel Safety off and it don't go KaPow. Guess they weren't too worried about negligent discharges however.
Tu Lam says: "Anyone that can't remember to flip a Manuel Safety off needs more training."
So them guys that don't watch their battery meters must need more training and less adrenaline.
" And is there something magical about rechargeable 123's? Don't those scopes die when their batteries poop out? That makes no sense whatsoever. Sounds like a little bias here, unless your scope using rechargeables only dies at the best possible time. "
You missed the important point I stated in my previous post, which was each time you go out it is really convenient to start the night out with fully charged rechargeables that have a pretty long run time vs trying to use up 1/4 to 1/2 previously used Primary CR123.
Agree about the logic of the adrenaline but not on your battery hypotheticals. Is someone is going to remember to put in fully charged rechargeables, why would not not the same logic apply to primary's? Start out the night conveniently with new ones - pretty simple. And of course carry spares no matter the type. I have one of these Surefire waterproof 123 battery carriers in each car, the house, garage, workshop & bug out bag.
And if somebody is so financially strapped they must head out intentionally with used batteries then "Houston we have a problem"
Also you never mentioned what Thermal scope you have??
Attachments
Oooooh Boy, here we go.
I'm over in the Anti-Christ league. I am a die hard Flir PTS Thermosight bigot. Its the only one that currently meets all of my required criteria. I have every flavor Thermosight PTS Model they made (and a couple of special Custom Magnifiers for 233's) before they water board tortured us then threw us overboard like the worthless pieces of trash they think we are.
Even got some Flir Breach's. They love rechargeable 16650 batteries. The Breach is meh, but does the intended job plenty good enough for me and dollar for dollar is well worth the squeeze.
Now just remember "one is none and two is one". That applies especially to Thermal Weapon Sights. If one sh^ts the bed, reach on over and grab your spare or spares. In tactical/defense situations its always necessary to have Plan A, B, C, D, E & F.
The best thermal out there is the one you got in your possession that is up and running.
Last edited:
Night Vision - Rechargeable 123’s
My thermal (Hogster-R) specifies it’s designed to use with 3.7v rechargeable 123 batteries. I am a techno-idiot and there are a dizzying array of obvious chi-com options out there. Would like to avoid buying junk and putting my equipment at risk. Does the group have any suggestions for good...
www.snipershide.com Oooooh Boy, here we go.
I'm over in the Anti-Christ league. I am a die hard Flir PTS Thermosight bigot. Its the only one that currently meets all of my required criteria. I have every flavor Thermosight PTS Model they made (and a couple of special Custom Magnifiers for 233's) before they water board tortured us then threw us overboard like the worthless pieces of trash they think we are.
Even got some Flir Breach's. They love rechargeable 16650 batteries. The Breach is meh, but does the intended job plenty good enough for me and dollar for dollar is well worth the squeeze.
Now just remember "one is none and two is one". That applies especially to Thermal Weapon Sights. If one sh^ts the bed, reach on over and grab your spare or spares. In tactical/defense situations its always necessary to have Plan A, B, C, D, E & F.
The best thermal out there is the one you got in your possession that is up and running.
Understand your point. I had the same one & done experience with Suppressors. Got a Silencerco Hybrid after lots of research thinking it would be all I needed. The bug set in, Then needed a .22 can. Then a dedicated 9mm, then a .compact .45. Now have a Rugged Radiant 762 in jail.
I have read mixed things about FLIR, decent scopes, but lousy support. I guess I still don't understand how a $2500 Thermosight can use rechargeables
but a $6500 Trijicon can't. I just don't see alot of options for a state of the art 640x480, 12 micron compact scope suited for tactical & hunting use, especially with my criteria of aluminum contruxtion & a quick release return to zero mount.
I currently have a mk3 60 and a reap 35mm and would definitely disagree that the "battery meter is very accurate".
Can you tell me at what voltage the units will turn off? mine have been very erratic as to what voltage they turn off at.
Depends on how much you use them.
My mkiii 60mm powered up all night using 2x16650. My patrol runs about 3 hrs per 16650. I would have spent hundreds of $$ on 123a batts for the hrs I use them. I spent under $75 for 8 batts a few yrs back. If I weren’t running rechargeable I probably would turn them off when not looking thru them so might not have used the same hr/hr vs 123a batts.
And yes batts are not a financial hardship, but it’s nice running them all night for no additional $$.
Interestingly, I was speaking to a dealer yesterday about the REAP vs the Halo & I brought up the rechargeable battery issue. He told me a senior Trijicon
rep advised him rechargeables can be used in the REAP-the one they recommend is the Surefire LFP 123A which is a
lithium-phosphate battery that runs at 3.2V not 3.7 as standard lithium 123's. Only a few places carry them, as they appear to be discontinued.
I'm not sure if those particular rechargeables are similar in length to a non-rechargeable or not, but most rechargeable 123's are slightly longer than a non-rechargeable and will not physically fit in most electronics.
They are 3.2v rcr123 batts, problem is they are very low capacity. A battery is rated on watts of energy. Using 2 3v batts is 6v = about 9watts. Running a 4.35v 16650 with 2500mah = 9.5watts vs a cr123 3v with around 1500mah = 4.5 watts. Drawback is you need to add the extended cap which adds length. I run 2 16650 batts 8.7vdc vs 3. Cr123a 3v batts =9vdv. So the voltage and current does not exceed the units working parameters. The current draw of the device is what knocks out the cr123a batts, the lithium handles the current draw easier. Using 2cr123a cells is about the same as a single 16650, difference is the 16650 is dropped in a charger and gtg again and again. Easy 500 cycles.
Last edited:
My mk3 60mm has an extension that makes it hold 3 123 batteries, will the 16650's fit in that or do I need a different type battery extender?
A 16650 battery is pretty much the same length as 2 CR 123 put together end to end. The 16650 is usually used in situations were you use 2 Primary CR 123's as a rechargeable replacement for using 2 CR 123's
All that being said, it will fit, but appears to be 1 CR123 battery length too short to fill up a battery extender meant to hold 3 CR 123's
You need to get the same battery extender setup as Hard_Ware is running.
Well I hate to be the guy to revive this thread but...
So I pull my M300W Patrol from the safe last night and go to install battery. Hear noise, see crack, and brass insert comes out. So I’m now in the “cracked battery housing” boat. Except, I think my boat is sunk. My unit is IR Defense. You guys think I’m screwed? Trijicon can obviously tell me too bad so sad and there’s nothing I can do. BUT, it would be nice if they would apply that lifetime optic and housing warranty to me. Think I have a chance in hell? If not, I wonder what it would cost to fix. Battery housing crack is only issue.
What kind of scares me now is if I’ll see this on my IR Hunter and Reap IR...yep, they’re both IR Defense as well.
BTW, not that it matters, but this unit has only been used for handheld scanning...and even then, I bet its got less than 20 hours actual usage. Never been on a weapon and subjected to ANY recoil.
Regards,
G.
Titanic Passenger
So I pull my M300W Patrol from the safe last night and go to install battery. Hear noise, see crack, and brass insert comes out. So I’m now in the “cracked battery housing” boat. Except, I think my boat is sunk. My unit is IR Defense. You guys think I’m screwed? Trijicon can obviously tell me too bad so sad and there’s nothing I can do. BUT, it would be nice if they would apply that lifetime optic and housing warranty to me. Think I have a chance in hell? If not, I wonder what it would cost to fix. Battery housing crack is only issue.
What kind of scares me now is if I’ll see this on my IR Hunter and Reap IR...yep, they’re both IR Defense as well.
BTW, not that it matters, but this unit has only been used for handheld scanning...and even then, I bet its got less than 20 hours actual usage. Never been on a weapon and subjected to ANY recoil.
Regards,
G.
Titanic Passenger
Wow. That sucks big time.
New here, but have similar issues to others. I have an older IRD IR Hunter MKII unit that had the battery compartment come out. Surprisingly, Trijicon fixed it free of charge along with new spring and firmware update. I got it back in 30 days door to door (no tracking email was sent with the return and it just showed up to my surprise) It unit looks and ran great....until you shoot! Then it shuts off under recoil (AR15 in 6.8). So now, my scope is actually worse off than before. Does anyone have suggestions before I send it back again? If I over tighten the battery cap it shuts off. Either way, I have to take the batteries out in order to the the unit to come back on. I run the IRX, but it did it will 123s also. I'm going to try fresh batteries today because mine do have some age to them and I know you can't rely on what the scope reads.
Trijicon took care of me, and that does influence my future purchase decisions even if their product is more $$$. Hope they make good on the warranty even though it was before they took over.
Trijicon did take care of me 100% and the problem was on MY end. It was in fact my batteries, or so far it seems to be. I bought new batteries for the IRX and haven't had any problems with it over the last two times out. This was the first time I used it since they planted crops last spring.
It seems more clear to me for whatever reason, but don't hold me to that as it could be contributed to weather conditions or the fact I haven't used it in so long.
I don't notice any different features, reticles, or anything like that.
Similar threads
