Reloading Advice

[1rocket69]

Hello Gents,
Long time lurker that’s wanted to reload for a long time, just waiting till I get our permanent home without having to worry about moving crap. The job had me moving NC, TX now WA,, should be staying here until I kill over sooo got the house built this summer and a room (18x20) built with that in mind. Anyway got the reloading gear ordered, mostly going to be reloading .223, .308, 9mm, .40 and 45-70.

Here’s a list of what’s coming, just going to start with the .223 and .308 first till I figure things out a little more.
1) RCBS RockChucker Supreme Kit
2) Redding #5 powder trickle
3) RCBS Shellholder # 3, 10, 14 and 16
4) Lyman Impact bullet puller
5) RCBS Stuck Case remover
6) RCBS 2-Die set / Full Length.223
7) Redding Type S Match Bushing/ 3 die set/ Full Length .308
8) RCBS 6” Dial Calipers
9) Hornady Sure-Loc Locking rings/ 6pack
10) Thumlers Thumbler Ultra-Vibe 10
11) Flitz Brass Polish
12) Sierra MK 69gr .223/ 500
13) Hornady A-Max 178gr/ .308/ 100
14) I have Micrometer already

Starting on the bench next week, will be 36" x72" about 40"" off the floor
I know I’ll need some small tools, ie primer pocket cleaner, flash hole reamer etc. Question is WHAT else will I HAVE TO HAVE before getting rolling and I have a couple books, looked at Load Data website (but I’m a book guy) any added benefit to that site? Looking up the data it looks like RL 15 or Varget is a good powder for both .223 and .308, what’s the best way to go about choosing powders/primers without having a stack that don’t work well? Just trial and error?

Will be shooting a Rem 700 PSS 26” barrel 1/12 (I Think), RRA M-4 16” 1/9 barrel, building a 18”upper 1/8 twist. Mostly 300yd at the range about 550 in the mountains and when I get it dialed in will go over to the Eastern part of state to 1000 yd range couple times a yr, haven't shoot out to 1000 since 1993 when I just got out of the Marines so pretty rusty on wind calls. Next spring If I sell my bike a Gap-10 will be ordered.

Hit me with your knowledge what other little bits/tools I need and money saving/ safety tips ya’ll have learned along the way.

 

[bodywerks]

I don't see a scale or powder thrower or hand primer or case length trimmers for your various cartridges or neck chamfer tool, either.
Any decent digital scale will work. I use an automatic powder dispenser that has a digital scale built in(chargemaster 1500). Not necessary but if you plan to reload a lot and are looking for precision, buy once cry once. I also have the rcbs 750 scale. They both work fine for .2gn accuracy.
Lee makes case trimmers that I like. Look them up.
I also like the lee hand primer. Look that up as well.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[Killshot44]

1) Hornady OAL gauge tool to best measure seating depth maximums. Need a modified case for each caliber.

2) Casemouth chamfering tool (the "rocket" style that can use an adapter to chuck into a drill is preferred. This chamferer fits nearly all calibers.

3) If you're going to trickle charges just go get the Omega electric one and don't look back. Best $60 you'll spend.

4) Better measuring tools are worth it. A Starret caliper will last a lifetime.

5) Pick up from Hornady: a Comparator Body and the inserts to use to measure shoulder set-back when sizing and setting up you dies as well as the bullet insert to meaure seated depth from the ogive - do not use tip-to-base for the OAL measurement or most else you do would be a wasted effort.

6) The latest Lyman reloaders manual.

7) Kinetic pullers wear out (the piece that holds the casemouth is the shortfall) Look for the Forster collet puller.

8) Charge weights count. Electric scales? The little Gem-Pro 250 resolves to .02grain, as opposed to the usual .10grain and is under $200 with a lifetime warranty that they stand behind with no BS for the original purchaser.

One nice thing is that quality handloading equipment doesn't lose value much and there is always demand for it. You can save some $$$ picking up your "new" pieces that way, too.
You'd be surprised what a good WTB ad in the right forum brings.

 

[1rocket69]

The rcbs kit comes with beam scale, powder measure, hand primer and chamfer tool.
With me just getting into will I regret a hand case trimmer vs electric? Gonna be a while before I worry about speed or volumes. Def gonna pickup a oal gauge and electronic scales on the todo list. Thanks for the info, keep'm coming

 

[lawman29]

RCBS hand trimmer is good to start, you can upgrade it later by adding motor if you like.
Reloading blocks.
Imperial die wax.
Don't get a digital scale yet. Load at least 1k first, then you'll appreciate it more when you do get one...RCBS 750
After you've dumped powder a little bit get one of these: RCBS Uniflow Powder Measure Micrometer Adjustment Screw Large 685

 

[Deadshot2]

The rcbs kit comes with beam scale, powder measure, hand primer and chamfer tool.
With me just getting into will I regret a hand case trimmer vs electric? Gonna be a while before I worry about speed or volumes. Def gonna pickup a oal gauge and electronic scales on the todo list. Thanks for the info, keep'm coming

I've been using a hand RCBS trimmer for over 30 years and it's still my choice for all accuracy loads. I've added a 3-Way cutter that trims, chamfers, and de-burrs, all at the same time. To make it even better I changed out the cutter for a carbide one. So easy to use I trim all my .308 and 30-06 cases after every firing.

Just a thought on your bench. Make it tall enough so you can stand and work if you choose. For sit down operations just buy a drafting stool.

Here's a set of plans that have been around for years. I built my bench using them only I substituted white melamine covered cabinet particle board for the plywood they used. Mine comes apart into three sections for moving if ever necessary. Top cabinet, counter top, and base legs. Built it in my garage and moved it into an upstairs unused bedroom. It is solid enough that when loading with my Dillon XL-650, and really "rocking out" the case feeder doesn't wiggle at all.

I used 2 X material under the mounting points (beneath the top) for both the Dillon and the Single Stage with nice long carriage bolts.

I would recommend a good digital scale. If you don't want to spring for a Chargemaster at first, then just buy the scale that you can add the powder dispenser to later. With the hard to meter powders like Varget, IMR-4064, etc, the Chargemaster is great.

 

[bigedp51]

If you buy the Hornady Cartridge Case Headspace gauge you will be much better off and won't have to buy a separate gauge for each caliber. You will also have much more accurate readings for controlling shoulder bump than with the Wilson type gauges.

 

[elfster1234]

http://www.snipershide.com/[email protected]

 

[Pinecone]

Agreed about the bench size. Don't make it too deep, or you will be stretching to reach things at the back.

Put shelves on the wall behind the bench, NOT attached to the bench.

As for height, that depends on YOU. I made my bench to be comfortable for reloading while standing. You will need to mock up something once you get your press so you are reaching too high or too low (bad on the back).

My bench is 24" deep. I cut a piece of 4x8 3/4" birch ply in half and laminated the two pieces together with glue and screws. You cannot make your bench too sturdy.

I put flat white laminate on the top. It makes it easy to see small things you drop.

 

[1rocket69]

" Starting on the bench next week, will be 36" x72" about 40"" off the floor "

Did you put a lot of thought into those dimensions? Mainly the 36" wide (deep) and ~40" high. A drafting table is around 36", the typical desk is 30". I built my benches from plywood and chose 24" x 96" (plywood comes 48 x 96). I don't remember what height I made mine, typical countertops are 31".

Are you going to sit in a chair, stand or sit on a drafting chair?

Haaa, I had measured several times and thought I had it right. Took the width idea from our kitchen island, was thinking a cabinet for the left side and didn't want it overhanging.....forgot to take into account the island has a 9" overhang on the bar side. Probably adjust it back to 24-28"..good catch. The height is good for me, figured 36" legs plus top will be right at 38" which is good for me either in my padded bar stool or standing.

 

[Deadshot2]

You cannot make your bench too sturdy.

Ahem! Yes you can. One usually finds out that they "overdid" it when they go to move it. I started adding up the weight of the materials I was using in mine and decided it was best to build it in modules and then bolt together with carriage bolts, washers, and "nyloc" nuts.