Rem 700 Light Primer strikes.

[Just Chuck]

I shot an F class match this weekend and out of the 60+ rounds, had probably 10 or 12 rounds that didn't fire on first strike - one never did fire at all. So I cleaned the bolt/firing pin and spring when I got home. It didn't look that bad so I don't think its a cleaning problem.

( a little back ground : It's chambered in 223 and was re-barreled with a 24" Shilan 1:8, action trued, Jewell trigger, and B&C stock all this five years ago. The load was Lapua 77gr, 22.8gr Varget, CCI BR4 primers)

I'm about to call it a firing pin spring problem and either replace the firing pin assembly or just the spring. The spring replacement work I would send out to have done. Replacing the whole assembly may be the fastest and cheapest.

So I'd like to get your advice/input on this. Is my conclusion valid? Where is good source for these parts if I do replace either.

 

[jcmullis2]

I’d buy the 28lb assembly. I did, but it was to get rid of the old j lock or isis. MidwayUSA or Brownells has the firing pin removal toll for less than $30 And springs are about $15
Changing the Remington snake spring will eliminate some of your fliers. The Remington firing pin spring is garbage. Just my humble opinion

 

[1moaoff]

Can you 100% verify primers seated fully?

 

[Just Chuck]

I’d buy the 28lb assembly. I did, but it was to get rid of the old j lock or isis. MidwayUSA or Brownells has the firing pin removal toll for less than $30 And springs are about $15
Changing the Remington snake spring will eliminate some of your fliers. The Remington firing pin spring is garbage. Just my humble opinion

Thanks, I'll check that out. That would be a pretty easy-cheap fix.

Can you 100% verify primers seated fully?

No. Glad you mentioned it. I hate to admit it, but I did have one round with a high primer that would not chamber. I'm using an old Lee Auto Prime tool to seat primers. Is there a way to verify that the primer is fully seated?

 

[1moaoff]

Measure

 

[jcmullis2]

Thanks, I'll check that out. That would be a pretty easy-cheap fix.


No. Glad you mentioned it. I hate to admit it, but I did have one round with a high primer that would not chamber. I'm using an old Lee Auto Prime tool to seat primers. Is there a way to verify that the primer is fully seated?

I never had any problems but I cleaned my pockets and eyeballed my case after priming. Like the other fella said, measuring is best. I just primed and stood my primed cases on their base. If they won’t stand your primer needs to be seated more. I’m sure you’ll pay more attention to priming now but I’m still thinking it’s the snake like firing pin Remington is notorious for. There’s a few videos on YouTube but search “ Greg Tannel Gre Tan Rifles J-Lock Snaked Spring” and see if your spring is a snake or nice an straight. Hope you get it figured out

 

[Brux]

You can also check your firing pin petrusion

 

[Just Chuck]

@jcmullis2 - thanks for the tip on the Gre Tan Youtube channel....looks like he's got a lot of good info there. Neither of my 700's are J lock ( I didn't know about J lock before this). I'll be ordering the disassembly tool and springs today.

And yes, I'm watching primer seating real close now...just got alittle sloppy I guess.

 

[jcmullis2]

@jcmullis2 - thanks for the tip on the Gre Tan Youtube channel....looks like he's got a lot of good info there. Neither of my 700's are J lock ( I didn't know about J lock before this). I'll be ordering the disassembly tool and springs today.

And yes, I'm watching primer seating real close now...just got alittle sloppy I guess.

I gotta a half dozen Remington‘s that range from late 80s to 2020. All their springs are trash. I got the whole assembly and replaced the j lock and springs for the rest. I also got trigger pull springs for the ones with factory triggers. Check Wolfe springs website and you’ll save a little money if you need more than just one.

 

[Just Chuck]

I ordered two Wolfe springs from Midway - they were $8/each and tool for disassembly.

Mine don't look bad - but this should be an upgrade. They're not 'snaky' like shown in the Gre Tan video.

 

[DownhillFromHere]

Also check the profile of the firing pin tip - is it rounded as we usually assume/expect?

Yes, this is a long shot (pardon the pun) - but that turned out to be the issue with my Tikka T3X when it wouldn't reliably fire CCI 450 primers (same cup as BR4 is my understanding). Sent it to Tikka, they kept it five weeks, and problem still existed when I got it back. My friend & gunsmith looked at it, immediately noticed the flat firing pin tip, and radiused it without changing the length. Problem solved.

 

[jcmullis2]

I ordered two Wolfe springs from Midway - they were $8/each and tool for disassembly.

Mine don't look bad - but this should be an upgrade. They're not 'snaky' like shown in the Gre Tan video.

View attachment 7346197View attachment 7346197

Your springs don’t look that bad. The firing pin in the bottom of the pic looks different. It looks like 2 pieces of metal just after the spring. It may be separating and causing you problems. If the lower assembly is the one that had problems I’d get a new firing pin too.

 

[Just Chuck]

I saw that too. That's for my 308; the top one is the one from the problem rifle. When I disassemble, I'll find out.