Just picked up a rem 700 sps varmint in 308, and might be picking up a vortex viper pst 4-16x50 ffp mrad, was wondering if any of you experts had some basic do's and dont's for getting my set up together.
Thanks
Thanks
- Thread starter The russian 1021
- Start date
Find a local trainer or shooter that can show you the ropes and buy some good quality ammo and get to the range as much as you can.
If it hasn't been done already, get rid of the Reminton Trigger. Get a good Timney (the new 510 CE is great) or a Jewell. A good trigger will go a long way to making a rifle accurate. The rest is up to the shooter with scopes merely being the means to see the target.
Setting up a new scope starts with the mounting base and rings. A good solid base, properly installed so it doesn't come loose is step one. To make sure it isn't "tweaked" when the mount screws are tightened it's a good idea to bed the rail. Use bedding compound or J-B Weld to fill any irregularities between base and action using the screws to only locate the rail while the epoxy cures. To hold the rail against the action with out distorting it, just wrap the setup with surgical tubing a bicycle inner tube, or anything else that will just hold it firm but without enough force to bend it. Use KIWI shoe polish (neutral color) to keep the epoxy from sticking to the action or screws.
Second is to make sure you use quality rings and check their alignment. Some rings need lapping so they don't put a bind in the scope tube. Even high end "no lap" rings can be off if the base is installed improperly and "tweaked" (thus the suggestion it be bedded).
Setting up a new scope starts with the mounting base and rings. A good solid base, properly installed so it doesn't come loose is step one. To make sure it isn't "tweaked" when the mount screws are tightened it's a good idea to bed the rail. Use bedding compound or J-B Weld to fill any irregularities between base and action using the screws to only locate the rail while the epoxy cures. To hold the rail against the action with out distorting it, just wrap the setup with surgical tubing a bicycle inner tube, or anything else that will just hold it firm but without enough force to bend it. Use KIWI shoe polish (neutral color) to keep the epoxy from sticking to the action or screws.
Second is to make sure you use quality rings and check their alignment. Some rings need lapping so they don't put a bind in the scope tube. Even high end "no lap" rings can be off if the base is installed improperly and "tweaked" (thus the suggestion it be bedded).
Get a Timney trigger. In my experience even if the factory trigger is tuned by a competent smith they tend not not stay where you put them. And the Timney feels better anyways. But nothing beats trigger time.
Thanks for the help, will be getting rid of everything except the action in time, want to make an m40a5 mockup.
Will do barrel work first, then trigger work, then stock work.
Would a timney be good for hunting/shtf applications?
Will do barrel work first, then trigger work, then stock work.
Would a timney be good for hunting/shtf applications?
I would do stock, trigger, barrel. In that order.
Agree, they will shoot well with a good stock and trigger for a few thousand rounds, worry about the barrel when that one is toast. Here is my post on a shorty 20" tactical I worked over... http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...846-308-remington-tactical-work-progress.html
I agree with the above order of improving your rifle. The stock is the weakest link in your system and replacing it with a Bell and Carlson, less than $300, or even a HS Precision take-off with an aluminum bedding block, $200-$250, will improve your accuracy and consistency. The Timney 510Us run around $115 and are a very affordable upgrade when funds allow. With these two things accomplished, you should have a rifle that shoots well and allows you some time to practice and get familiar with the rifle. You can then decide whether or not the barrel work is even necessary.
Yap, like he said.
Rem 700 tips/tricks/advice for a new LR shooter?
- Make sure you have a good scope and calibrate it.
- Get somebody knowledgeable to adjust your factory trigger. At this stage is plenty good enough.
- Get a cheek pad, also known as stock comb rising kit.
- Do a lot of dry firing.
- Attend good classes. Can personally vouch for Vapor Tactical and Wolf Precision, and there are other excellent instructors here.
- Online training put here by Lowlight is great and affordable - make use of it.
After some practice, you may decide that you need a better stock. When my time came, I went with AICS.
From personal experience, factory trigger has been doing a very good job after Sean Little adjusted it. Light, crisp, repeatable, reliable. So no need for Timney for my Rem 700.
Mouse
NRA Life Member Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free
- Make sure you have a good scope and calibrate it.
- Get somebody knowledgeable to adjust your factory trigger. At this stage is plenty good enough.
- Get a cheek pad, also known as stock comb rising kit.
- Do a lot of dry firing.
- Attend good classes. Can personally vouch for Vapor Tactical and Wolf Precision, and there are other excellent instructors here.
- Online training put here by Lowlight is great and affordable - make use of it.
After some practice, you may decide that you need a better stock. When my time came, I went with AICS.
From personal experience, factory trigger has been doing a very good job after Sean Little adjusted it. Light, crisp, repeatable, reliable. So no need for Timney for my Rem 700.
Mouse
NRA Life Member Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free
I have the same rifle, like others said throw that flexi-shit stock in the trash. I added a B&C tatical medalist stock and a sightron sIII scope and just been shooting the piss out of it. Shoots extremly accurate box stock ! Enjoy it!
Heres the deal though, if i got a new stock first, then switched barrels, wouldnt the stock not fit?
If i have a stock meant for the stock barrel, then i rebarrel, you would need a new stock correct?
If i have a stock meant for the stock barrel, then i rebarrel, you would need a new stock correct?
If you wanted to go with a heavier contour in the future then get a stock channeled to fit that future contour. No problem.
And now I see your other thread. Do what Moses said just buy the MCM A4 with the channel opened up for the m40 contour barrel but before you start purchasing anything, read as much as you can. It seems like you don't have a ton of information yet and you just bought the gun.
I agree with what the others said about the stock first because that cheap plastic stock sucks. MCM A4 is nice but I would want to bed it and that takes more funds also. Everything just adds and adds, read up and find out the whole process before purchasing.
I agree with what the others said about the stock first because that cheap plastic stock sucks. MCM A4 is nice but I would want to bed it and that takes more funds also. Everything just adds and adds, read up and find out the whole process before purchasing.
Don't get too far ahead of yourself. It's so easy to get caught up in the "I gotta have a zoot bimford 6000 aftermarket trigger , I gotta have this tatci-cool multi-mega swivel bipod".... Most shooters don't have an instant $2K+ lying around for an initial build, so prioritize your needs and incramentally upgrade based upon what you will be doing, ie : 100 yd paper punching , 600 yd paper , tactical type shooting and so on. I built my R700 Varmint with the intention of paper punching and taking me out to 600 yds (I belong to a club that has a 600 yd range). My box stock action can shoot sub MOA at 600 yds , if I do everything perfect as I should (which I do NOT at this time ). My initial focus when I bought my rifle new was to get it to FEEL perfect , and that SPS stock was NOT it ! So after trying many rifle's and my <$500 budget I added the B&C tatical stock, and immediately what a huge difference in comfort. I added an inexpensive Bushnell Banner 6-18x scope I had on the shelf from another rifle (as I was initially shooting 200 meters) , at that point it was just practice, practice , practice my form and technique. Lastly when I felt I was ready for my 600 yard quals , I added a Sightron 8-32x practiced at 200 meters some more, and then qualified for my club's 600 easily shooting 3 shots out of 15 at sub MOA (after a few sighters, 13 of my shots were in the black).
or get a barrel contour that fits your stock. or inlet it with a broom stick and some 100 grit
That gun loves 175smk's, not sure why but it's at its best when shooting that grain bullet.
Love Vortex but hate the PST. Get a Weaver or SWFA HD.
Best thing you can do is practice.
Love Vortex but hate the PST. Get a Weaver or SWFA HD.
Best thing you can do is practice.
The throat is designed for tangent-ogive bullets like the 168/175/180 SMK. My 700P barrel absolutely refused to shoot secant-ogive bullets (VLDs), and I wasted a crapload of (newb) money figuring this out. Since factory rifles are designed to shoot factory ammo, and since tangent-ogive bullets are the most forgiving as to seating depth, this makes sense. The 1/12 rifling makes this barrel ok for shooting Berger 185 juggernauts if you push them hard enough.
+1
Berger states that 1:12 is sufficient for this bullet and say nothing about "pushing" it.
The Juggernaut is designed to handle jumps better than a straight secant ogive bullet and perform better when loaded to magazine length.
For me, the Juggernaut liked jumping, right up until the time it didn't anymore. After some barrel wear, I had to start seating it 0.003" off the lands, vice 0.035" off.
Berger's online stability calculator says that in a 1/12 at 2650 fps (pushing it) it would be "marginally stable". So go for it if you want to. I didn't want to recommend any new shooters get into any "marginal" configurations.
185 Jugg at 2650 in a 1/10: "Your bullet is STABLE.
Your bullet is flying with full stability. You can expect good groups and your BC is optimized."
185 Jugg at 2650 in a 1/12: "Your bullet is MARGINALLY STABLE.
Your bullet stability is marginal. You may shoot good groups under these conditions, but the BC of the bullet will not be optimized. Minimum Twist Recommended: 1 in 11.5"
Bullet BC (G7): 0.283
Adjusted BC for 1 in 12" Twist: 0.274
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SWRichmond-
That's why the last 1:12 rifle I ever "had" was issued to me by Uncle Sam. Since then all my 30 cal's are 1:10 and my next .223 Bolt action will be a 1:7.5
I hate "marginal". I also don't like lightweight bullets.
That's why the last 1:12 rifle I ever "had" was issued to me by Uncle Sam. Since then all my 30 cal's are 1:10 and my next .223 Bolt action will be a 1:7.5
I hate "marginal". I also don't like lightweight bullets.
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