Remage barrel conversion
- Thread starter dshag
- Start date
Call Jim Briggs @ Northland Shooters Supply and he'll give you the low-down on a Rem-Age setup.
Off the top of my head, you're looking at about $400 for a Criterion Rem-Age prefit barrel, NSS recoil lug, and NSS barrel nut and maybe $20-30 additional for a barrel nut wrench. You'll need your action notched for the NSS recoil lug which you can DIY or send to most any gunsmith to do, though Dan @ Dark Eagle Customs does pretty good business doing Rem-Age action work which includes notching for the recoil lug (I think Dan uses his own lug) and action truing.
How hard is it? No harder than swapping a Savage, and the hardest part will be getting your factory 700 barrel off.
You'll also need AT MINIMUM a shop vise, some notched hardwood blocks & resin (or brown sugar) to hold the barrel in the shop vice, a Go-Gauge, and some Scotch-brand clear tape (which you can put 1 piece on bottom of Go-Gauge to make a No-Go.
Off the top of my head, you're looking at about $400 for a Criterion Rem-Age prefit barrel, NSS recoil lug, and NSS barrel nut and maybe $20-30 additional for a barrel nut wrench. You'll need your action notched for the NSS recoil lug which you can DIY or send to most any gunsmith to do, though Dan @ Dark Eagle Customs does pretty good business doing Rem-Age action work which includes notching for the recoil lug (I think Dan uses his own lug) and action truing.
How hard is it? No harder than swapping a Savage, and the hardest part will be getting your factory 700 barrel off.
You'll also need AT MINIMUM a shop vise, some notched hardwood blocks & resin (or brown sugar) to hold the barrel in the shop vice, a Go-Gauge, and some Scotch-brand clear tape (which you can put 1 piece on bottom of Go-Gauge to make a No-Go.
This is mine that is almost done just have to have the bolt knob done and then restock it, the barrel was done in Ceracoat and the muzzle threaded for the suppressor. The hardest thing is just removing the factory barrel. The barrel nut is over sized and it comes with an anti-rotation pin so that when changing out barrels the recoil lug stays centered and that is the notch you see machined into the bottom of the action that the anti-rotation pin rest in. You have to have the wrench also and the action vice from Northland and Jim can get you set on that. I did mine in 260 Remington and it originally started out as a 22-250. I will order another barrel in 22-250 after I sell the factory takeoff barrel. So all you have to do is put the action vise into a bench mounted vice and then run the barrel wrench down to the barrel nut and unscrew the nut uninstall your barrel and then reinstall the new barrel and have your go and no go gauges at hand and that is it. No fuss no muss.
You actually don't "need" an action wrench with a notched recoil lug...though it does make assembly easier.
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Deal with Jim, he's a good guy. Got me fixed up for my bighorn that's threaded for savage prefits. Pt&g had my go gauge in stock too.
Is the reason for the notched recoil lug just for locating the lug during install? I had LRI pin one of their recoil lugs on my 700 during the recent group buy so that in the future I could have an extra barrel turned in 260 and swap them around. It seems that I would just need the barrel nut and a threaded barrel to work with the system if this the case.
Two stupid questions...
1) does the action wrench I got for my Savage barrel changes work, or is there a remington specific one? I imagine there is but is worth a check.
2) Is there some down side I'm missing to doing the remage thing? What's not to like about saving hundreds in install fees?
1) does the action wrench I got for my Savage barrel changes work, or is there a remington specific one? I imagine there is but is worth a check.
2) Is there some down side I'm missing to doing the remage thing? What's not to like about saving hundreds in install fees?
If the Rem-Age Nut came from Jim Briggs/NSS..yes, the Savage wrench will work.
You are limited to the specs of prefit barrels, including contour, length, and chamber. For some this doesn't matter, for others it does. Of course you can have a smith spin up a "prefit" to your specs using any blank, but you really don't save much or any money doing this.
Plus some just don't like a barrel nut...
the barrel nut is fugly but I could learn to ignore it with how much time and money it saces on barrel replacement over more conventional set up.
cheers.
cheers.
Does this cause any problems with stock/chassis selection? If not I might be able to get over how the barrel but looks
Not really, the only thing that you have to be aware of is if you want to use the recoil lug and pin system that Jim uses. You will have to make sure that the action sits flat in your stock/chassis, if you don't watch this the action will be raised up in the front because it is sitting on the pin. I just notched the channel in the recoil lug area so that the action drops completely into the inlet without resting on the pin. If you do a standard pin job nothing to worry about, I dropped mine right back into the factory Remington varmint stock and the barrel nut touches nothing.
Has he raised prices on the remage barrel? Mine was 325 two years ago, that included a nut. It works just fine in an aics. I had the action trued up, nothing done to threads of course, also had my lug double pinned. I prefer a double pin or a smith notch action. More precise. That way if it's bedded into conventional stock and barrel is swapped the lug to bedding fit remains the same
The barrel nut is not un attractive. Lug and nut look to be well thought out. Fit of assembly very good for out of the box. I like mine.
Doesn't look like there's any issues with the Rem-Age "varmint contour" fitting in a Sendero stock...?
My 'heavy varmint' is heavy. The channel needed just a clean up, perhaps a touch more than a clean up. Now barrel swap ready with a Sendero. This set up is perfect for a two barrel rifle.
I set up my head space with my brass. Checked the 'range' with PTG gauges and fine tuned my spot with my brass. It worked out to optimize my brass.
Also trimmed the front of the NF base. Switch barrel ready.
I set up my head space with my brass. Checked the 'range' with PTG gauges and fine tuned my spot with my brass. It worked out to optimize my brass.
Also trimmed the front of the NF base. Switch barrel ready.
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