Gunsmithing Remage Build. Need info on recoil lug.

[Chingon]

Building a bolt action pistol in 300BO, so I bought a KAK 10.5" Remage barrel. The problem is, when I tried using a .300 recoil lug, I couldn't get the action to headspace correctly. Sooooo....what would be the thickest recoil lug I could use on a Remage barrel? Are the length of the threads different for different barrel manufacturers? What would be the minimum recommended recoil lug thickness?

 

[Steel head]

I’m not understanding how you couldn’t get it headspaced.
screw barrel in till headspace gauge stops it and tighten down the nut.
Why bother with a super thick lug on a pistol build?

 

[chevy_man]

Really don't need a thick lug.

If you do, tell the barrel manufacturer and they'll run the action threads long enough to work.

 

[Tikka595II]

Do you have a set of calipers? If you're trying for maximum thickness for your recoil lug remove the recoil lug thread the Barrel in till it stops on the go gauge and thread the nut as far out as it will go and measure the space between the action and the nut go just a little shorter so you can actually torque the nut and you're not stopped against the threads this should get you a good idea of what you have to work with.

 

[Chingon]

Do you have a set of calipers? If you're trying for maximum thickness for your recoil lug remove the recoil lug thread the Barrel in till it stops on the go gauge and thread the nut as far out as it will go and measure the space between the action and the nut go just a little shorter so you can actually torque the nut and you're not stopped against the threads this should get you a good idea of what you have to work with.

Unfortunately, I don't have a set of calipers, but this is the best advice yet. I was hoping someone with lots of experience with Remage barrels would chime in.

 

[Eric32]

I did a couple of remage setups in the past, thicker lugs didn't let the barrel head space at all. From what i can tell after doing 5 barrels my self. Most are cut for the standard .250 at the largest. I always used a .187 lug to get the most thread engagement on the barrel and barrel nut.

It also helps a lot if the lug is pinned in place with 2 pins rather than 1 to ensure the lug doesn't twist when torquing down. Also don't go crazy trying to get the tightest head-space possible set the go gauge with a 2 layers of tape on the part that contacts the bolt face to help with .002 head-space. And use a torque wrench and anti seize on the threads and for installing.

What brand of barrel nut system are you using?

 

[roostercogburn98]

I just re-headspaced my 350 legend with a KAK barrel. I used a .200 lug and believe it was on the verge of being too thick. I had to finesse it just a little to get in the sweet spot. Standard lug should be sufficient and headspace pretty easy to get set.

 

[Chingon]

The barrel nut came on the barrel. Thanks for the tip on the tape. That's a great idea.

 

[Eric32]

Do they supply a wrench that fits the nut tight. I marred a couple of mine from the wrench not fitting properly. My last one had SPR bugnut it had a better barrel nut wrench and nut fit. But i did end up getting an AIAT, so now that is a super easy process.

 

[Average guy]

I’ve always used Criterion prefits from Northland shooters supply. I always use their recoil lug. It measures.244. No problem headspacing with this lug and Northlands barrel nut. Nice thing about this lug is it works in conjunction with the Taper lock system on the NSS action wrench to position the recoil lug.

 

[Chingon]

Do they supply a wrench that fits the nut tight. I marred a couple of mine from the wrench not fitting properly. My last one had SPR bugnut it had a better barrel nut wrench and nut fit. But i did end up getting an AIAT, so now that is a super easy process.

They do not, but the wrench I have fits snuggly.

 

[Eric32]

then your off to the races

 

[ShooterwithNoName]

Do you have a thinner recoil lug to try? I keep a few recoil lugs of different thicknesses on hand. Factory recoil lugs are usually not very flat. I have a few .300"+ lugs on hand for swapping barrels around if I want. At .300" I have room to surface grind both sides down to the desired thickness and be confident both sides are truly flat...

I just find out my headspace, measure the gap where my recoil lug will go and surface grind the lug to whatever thickness I need. I luckily have access to a surface grinder at work though. But it does allow me to headspace via recoil lug thickness vs. having the shoulder cut back on a lathe.

If you have an old factory .187" lug lying around, try it and see how much room you have to go to a bigger lug. Probably .200" or maybe .250" max. I do recommend an aftermarket lug vs. a factory lug even if you decide to go .187" width. Aftermarket lugs are usually ground much more flat than the stamped factory ones...

ETA: Once you determine what thickness you want to go with, just shop around on line for one that matches. Or have a Smith or machine shop grind down the one you have to thickness you want.

 

[Chingon]

I bought a .187 from PTG today. Figure once it's bedded, the thickness shouldn't matter. I was more worried about getting the barrel to headspace.