I just got a replacement bolt from ptg. This is their 700/721 replacement bolt, no the 1 peice.
The problem is it won't close in any of my actions. Upon closer inspection this measurement is about .1 more than the other bolt i measured.
Oversize lugs ( I guess on purpose? ) so the bolt can be headspaced to the chamber instead of the other way around.
The back of the lugs would be relieved until the breech face is at the correct point in space when closed to fall into your target GO - NO GO range.
Probably but not guaranteed, by the time this is done, the bolt nose and front of the lugs will have sufficient clearance with the back of the barrel and bolt nose counterbore to allow closing and proper function.
Woukd this be what is stopping the bolt from closing?
It could be several things.
Does this bolt already have the handle soldered in place?
If so, it is a roll of the dice as to how much primary extraction cam engagement you are going to have once the lugs are fit to your action.
Remember that as you move the back of the lug, that is changing the relative position of the rest of the bolt and the already attached bolt handle with it.
In some cases, you could even end up with a properly head spaced bolt nose/lug but can't close the bolt on your particular receiver because the bolt handle is now too far forward and will conflict with the rear of the receiver.
The inverse of that is true as well. You could end up with a properly head spaced bolt and have it close freely but have almost no primary extraction available because the bolt handle is too far off the cam surface at the back of the receiver.
LOTS of variables and plenty of chances for things to not work optimally.
Remington receivers are all over the place dimensionally and PT&G is taking a best guess combined with their own production variations.
Can you cut that much off the lugs?
Certainly. Assuming the heat treat is not just 0.004" deep of some such shit.
The ideal situation would be to have a bolt w/o handle. - - - properly headspace the bolt to your receiver/barrel combo. - - - only then, position and time the bolt handle so that it has the most camming surface when going in and out of battery. TIG or silver solder in THAT position then rock on with your bad self.
Better full service shops like LRI offer that service and are really good at it.
For somebody that has a public education, I just typed a lot of shit. Hope this makes sense.