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Remington 700 Trigger Recommendations - Hunting

I have a Jewel, Timney and a couple of Rifle basix.
I am absolutely pleased with the Rifle basix and the Timney, the Jewel is nice, but I would never put one on hunting or gun used in the field.
I've finger fucked a couple of Trigger Techs and they seem very nice.
 
DNA: fairly weak solvent, intentionally toxic, takes a while to evaporate, often leaves residue if tinted

Brake cleaner: very toxic, but evaporates quickly and dissolves everything

Acetone: leaves residue that’s a pain in the ass to remove unless you can actually scrub it down with IPA or methanol

Lacquer thinner: depends on which proprietary blend; but typically leaves a mild residue and is toxic

Not familiar with KG

MEK: One of the most toxic cleaning chemicals out there. PPE strongly recommended, and they’re trying to phase it out everywhere they can. It does dissolve the stuff that brake cleaner won’t touch, though.

I think that MEK and brake cleaner might actually be too strong, because what you want to remove are bits of oil/grease plus flushing dust plus the cleaner getting out of there without gumming things up again, but you don’t want to remove any coatings or platings.
So you are saying lighter fluid is purer and less toxic than any other solvent available and yet the only place I have ever seen it spec-ed is for triggers?

This has fudd-sewing-circle written all over it.

If I spill this stuff on my hands my I can smell it for the rest of the day.

The only thing that possibly makes sense to me here is that it actually leaves a small non dirt collecting lubricant behind. If this were the case it would make perfect sense.
 
So you are saying lighter fluid is purer and less toxic than any other solvent available and yet the only place I have ever seen it spec-ed is for triggers?

This has fudd-sewing-circle written all over it.

If I spill this stuff on my hands my I can smell it for the rest of the day.

The only thing that possibly makes sense to me here is that it actually leaves a small non dirt collecting lubricant behind. If this were the case it would make perfect sense.
It’s a mild solvent of greases and oils, doesn’t absorb much water vapor, is less toxic, and is volatile. That’s not to say it doesn’t soak into things like cloth and skin and take hours to dry out, but metals are different in that they don’t have pores or Van der Waals interactions, both of which keep nonpolar solvents around very effectively. I’m also not saying it’s purer, but it *is* regulated to burn cleanly, which means that additives are controlled to some extent.

Sure, if you want the absolute best thing to wash a trigger with, remove the trigger and shake it in a jar of five-nines-pure butane. But you’re not losing a bunch by cutting costs a couple orders of magnitude.

In most cases where you’re flushing a mechanical widget, you’re going to be chasing it with oil or re-packing with grease, and making accommodations for preventing dirt ingress. Residue matters less. At industrial scales you want to use as little as possible, which means strong solvent. You also have fume hoods, often with activated charcoal, so toxicity matters less. Sometimes there are specific chemicals you’re required to use, like MEK in aerospace.

Other applications want the surface to wipe cleanly, with no residue, but you leave a liquid film thin enough that it evaporates almost instantly. You might do a 2-parter, and use acetone to dissolve the stuff and IPA to remove the acetone residue - but that only works if you can scrub the acetones surfaces, so it only works on flat-ish metal sheets.

Lacquer thinner is intended to thin lacquer. It doesn’t need to be volatile, it needs to be a strong solvent that thins nonpolar substances. Residue doesn’t matter because it’ll be overwhelmed by the lacquer.

Brake cleaner needs to dissolve polar and nonpolar deposits, quickly, with a minimum amount of fluid. It also needs to leave zero residue that could impact the brake fluid, or sealing, in any way, and disappear from nooks and crannies almost instantly. You pay for that with toxicity.

Triggers don’t want lubricants. They want hard, smooth, and clean surfaces. They certainly don’t want a soft coating that dust can embed into, or any friction modifiers. They have lots of nooks and crannies. You don’t want to remove any coatings or platings.

So yes, the chemicals generically packaged as lighter fluid are the inexpensive choice that does what they need to do without going for overkill in areas that don’t matter and aren’t beneficial.
 
I am a hunter in MT and have hunted with a stock Remington 700 action and trigger the past few years. The stock trigger is so hard in it feels impossible to consistently put good groupings down range with how hard I have to pull. What aftermarket triggers do you suggest?

Rifle specs:
chambered in 30-06
In the Magpul hunter stock
Using a buddies scope - vortex viper pst gen 1 2.5-10x32

I am on a budget so let me know what you guys think is the best bang for my buck! thanks!
I tuned the stock trigger on my M700 300 WM about 20 years ago. It is a crisp 3 lbs and has never changed. It can go lighter but it shoots just fine at 3 plus it is safe. Can't get much more budget than that. My M700 308 AAC-SD had the newer Remington trigger that was supposed to adjust from 2-6 lbs. It was awful from the factory and never would adjust below 5 lbs. I put a Timney in it and it is sweet. About $110 about 6 years ago.
 
I am a hunter in MT and have hunted with a stock Remington 700 action and trigger the past few years. The stock trigger is so hard in it feels impossible to consistently put good groupings down range with how hard I have to pull. What aftermarket triggers do you suggest?

Rifle specs:
chambered in 30-06
In the Magpul hunter stock
Using a buddies scope - vortex viper pst gen 1 2.5-10x32

I am on a budget so let me know what you guys think is the best bang for my buck! thanks!
Give the Timney triggers a look. I dropped in a Model 40x a few years back in my REM 700 / 300 Win Mag. Trigger lbs is adjustable to 4 lbs. mine is set at 2.12 lbs for bench shooting. Groups at 300 yds closed up appreciably. Not sure whether this model is still available. Good luck!!👍
 
Fortunately, the factory trigger pull on my newest favorite hunting rifle is averaging 2 pounds 7.7 ounces.

However, I have heard of M*Carbo spring kits and I am sure they have one for your action. As well as Timney and a host of others. You might also try Remington. I say that because my two semi-autos are Windham Weaponry and they offer on their site a lower resistance competition trigger.
 
I am using Huber Concepts probably the best 2-Stage trigger I ever used .Will be manufactured to you needs and each Trigger is a neat piece of engineering .Do not forget to call to order because John Huber will never get tired to discuss Trigger physics
 
Weird, I've seen Jewells go down, and even a few Timney, but never a Trigger Tech.
My shooting partner had his Trigger Tech Diamond shit the bed in his 6BR. Wouldn’t reset when cycling the bolt. TT replaced it but his rifle went down in the middle of a match which was unfortunate

OP: I’ve been using a Timney Elite Hunter 1.5-4lb adjustable, flat face for a while and I like it.
 
I have Jewels, Timneys and TriggerTechs. For your hunting rifle setup, it would be hard to beat a Trigger Tech Primary. It will adjust down to 1.5 lbs and break as crisp as glass. You can't beat the $150 price tag.
 
I use Timney on all my 700's and have never looked back, my shooting buddy uses TT and he swears by them,
there are plenty of great triggers, the standard trigger is not one of them, you'll be amazed how your rifle will
shoot...................