Remove brake?
- Thread starter Srikaleak
- Start date
Call them!
I'm guessing they used thread locker if it's that tight and not pinned. They'll tell you the proper procedure(s).
Better safe than sorry.
As if NFA limbo wasn't pure hell, now you're in muzzle brake limbo.
Maybe it's a sign from the gun gods telling you to be loud and proud.
Maybe it's a sign from the gun gods telling you to be loud and proud.
Just checking, but this isn't a 14.5 barrel is it? If so then muzzle device is pinned and welded.
If it’s 16” or over they likely didn’t pin it. Wrap your barrel in a piece of leather, and chuck it up in a bench vise. If the brake has flats, use the appropriate wrench and maybe a cheater pipe. If it doesn’t have flats, wrap the brake in a piece of leather, and put a pipe wrench on it. I highly doubt they put red lock-tite on it.... but I would call them and make sure before you do any of what I just said. If they did, your gonna have to put heat to the brake to get it off.
The two rules of tight muzzle brakes:
A) Nothing is tighter than stripped.
B) It can't be tight if it's liquid.
A little heat (try not to temper the muzzle) and it should break loose.
In case this isn't already obvious: Do NOT try to support your barrel by clamping the upper in blocks for removing a tight muzzle device. You can shear/break the barrel extension pin and/or mangle the upper if the barrel spins in the upper. I've repaired the aftermath of several uppers damaged this way.
Clamp the barrel itself in a barrel vise or use a reaction rod. If it's not excessively tight, you might get away with just clamping the barrel in V-blocks in a bench vise.
Clamp the barrel itself in a barrel vise or use a reaction rod. If it's not excessively tight, you might get away with just clamping the barrel in V-blocks in a bench vise.
I do have a problem, my brake is "stuck" and I'm trying to remove it without damaging the rifle.
My friend took his MCX to a smith, the smith broke his vise somehow. I put heat and a small cheaterbar to it.
the information you were given "via Dustin" is 100% correct I've installed and removed dozens of JP muzzle brakes.
Secure the upper in the vise via a Reaction Rod or the JP Vice Block.
Heat the motherfucker up using a hand held propane torch applying the heat about an inch back from the first port on the muzzle brake. (Not boiling water!) You should only need about 30 to 45 seconds of equally distributed heat to get it hot enough to break loose. ( Don't over cook it!)
Using a fitted wooden dowel (not a metal hex key!) which will dent our cause damage to the ports, break loose in a counterclockwise action.
Now stop overthinking this and do the damn thing.
