Is there any way to remove the front binder plate from an AICS style magazine? Special tools required? Anyone offer this as a service?
Thanks,
Stephen
Thanks,
Stephen
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Piece of copper used as a backing plate to weld against is what you want hereTig the holes closed and make sure smooth on the inside otherwise you run the very real risk of having bullet tips get snagged on slag or get caught in the hole.
Is there any way to remove the front binder plate from an AICS style magazine? Special tools required? Anyone offer this as a service?
Thanks,
Stephen
Thanks all! After I posted the question, a buddy of mine told me the same thing and sent me a pic of the front of one of his AI branded AICS mags. Mine are MDT brand (which I guess I should have specified originally) and I didn’t remember mine looking like that. After I got home from work, confirmed that they didn’t (spot welds not nearly so obvious) but did find them. I understand about the possibility of bullet tips catching on the bottom of the feed ramp and know the remedy. Just trying to access my options for these mags since they don’t work for 6.5x47 due to the location of the front internal vertical cartridge guide rail. Already ordered a couple of AI brand mags, which seem to work for 6.5x47 but was thinking about removing binder plate from the MDTs and using them with .243 since the front rail location is fine for that cartridge since the case is longer.
Thanks,
Stephen
Stephen,
Just to clarify, our magazines do work with the x47 based cartridges, you just generally have to space them forward in the magazine slightly. Weirdly enough, the same issues are not present in all of the x47's and some just fit and function flawlessly.
Also, we do sell magazines without the binder plate
Josh
Josh,
How do you "space them forward" in a consistent manner without some sort of spacer (similar to the ones for using 6 dasher, etc. - just not as thick)? It seems like you could do something like that - but not sure if it would be worth the effort to try to make.
Yes, I do know that you sell them without the binder plate, didn't order that version b/c I was planning to use them with 6.5x47, which are plenty short enough to work with the binder plate in place. Now just trying to weigh my options and decide how to best use the ones I already have.
BTW, I did not mean to sound as if I was putting your product down - I really like them. They are very well made/finished and I really like ability to have a 12 round factory mag.
Stephen
I did the same thing. I only did one and then decided it was easier to get another mag. The result was a loose follower fit that I don't care for as it seems to let more dirt in. Had an issue with this mag at a match due to FOD in the mag. Now I just use it as a backup.If you go slow and are careful with a Dremel, you can grind out the weld from the inside of magazine until you just break through to the actual magazine body. To be clear, I am saying grind the spot weld from inside (on the binder plate) until the diameter of the welded dot is down to the actual mag wall. At some point, with enough of the weld taken out, the binder plate should fall out or pop out.
You can do this without breaking through the magazine wall (i.e no rewelding or hole filling needed ). I did my first 2 aics mags this way before simply buying Accurate mags without a binder plate.
I solved the loose follower by making a plug of JB Steelstick on the end and sanding it down until it had .010 clearance. But you're right ... Way easier to simply buy a new mag(s).I did the same thing. I only did one and then decided it was easier to get another mag. The result was a loose follower fit that I don't care for as it seems to let more dirt in. Had an issue with this mag at a match due to FOD in the mag. Now I just use it as a backup.