How thorough do you guys clean your AR's? I bore brush and patch my barrel after shooting, as well as wipe down the bolt carrier and everything else I can reach with some CLP on a rag. What I'm wanting to know is how often, if ever, do you go so far as to disassemble thing like the bolt (or any other more internal items) for cleaning? This is my first AR (Noveske) and I want to take care of it, but not spend unnecessary time doing so to OCD level.
Rifle cleaning question.
- Thread starter greydarrah
- Start date
Re: Rifle cleaning question.
You should break the bolt carrier group down and clean it every time you clean, the carbon build up in the back of the carrier and the bolt will eventually cause corrosion and rust.
This will also prevent any function issues as well on that part anyway.
You should break the bolt carrier group down and clean it every time you clean, the carbon build up in the back of the carrier and the bolt will eventually cause corrosion and rust.
This will also prevent any function issues as well on that part anyway.
Re: Rifle cleaning question.
I live in Utah, so don't have problems with rust. My usual cleaning after getting back from the range is one dry nylon brush through the bore, followed with a dry patch. This just removes the loose stuff from the bore. Then I wipe the outside of the BCG down with a rag, then oil it again with WeaponShield. Make sure you get enough oil on the locking lugs. Reassemble and pull the charging handle slightly back until you can see the silver gas rings through the holes in the BCG. Drop some oil on there.
This whole process takes about 5-10 minutes, and most of that time is spent setting up my bore guide. I know most people are more thorough with their cleaning, but my AR has run through over 3000 rounds with only 2 failures. One was me not fully seating a primer, and the other was a FTE after reducing spring tension on the extractor. My factory barrel stayed at 1MOA accuracy and probably still had plenty of life in it when I replaced it. My current barrel hasn't moved from .75MOA, but it hasn't had enough rounds through it to really make a difference either way. I should also note that I do not use my AR for home defense, I am not an "operator", nor a competitor. If my gun fails, I make a frowny face, jot it down in my notebook, and continue on my merry way. In other words, the consequences of a gun failure are practically non-existent to me. Your situation may vary, so act accordingly.
Every 500 rounds or so, I'll really clean the bore with KG-1 Carbon Remover and a nylon brush. My barrel hardly gets any copper fouling, and KG-1 removes a slight amount of copper. Then I'll take apart my BCG and scrub everything clean. Also clean the inside of receiver and the barrel extension. Check that my trigger group is still clean, as well. This process can take hours depending on how clean you want it, which is why I don't usually worry about it.
Make sure when you clean your bore, that you use good cleaning techniques. A bore guide is a necessity if you want to keep your barrel as accurate as possible.
I live in Utah, so don't have problems with rust. My usual cleaning after getting back from the range is one dry nylon brush through the bore, followed with a dry patch. This just removes the loose stuff from the bore. Then I wipe the outside of the BCG down with a rag, then oil it again with WeaponShield. Make sure you get enough oil on the locking lugs. Reassemble and pull the charging handle slightly back until you can see the silver gas rings through the holes in the BCG. Drop some oil on there.
This whole process takes about 5-10 minutes, and most of that time is spent setting up my bore guide. I know most people are more thorough with their cleaning, but my AR has run through over 3000 rounds with only 2 failures. One was me not fully seating a primer, and the other was a FTE after reducing spring tension on the extractor. My factory barrel stayed at 1MOA accuracy and probably still had plenty of life in it when I replaced it. My current barrel hasn't moved from .75MOA, but it hasn't had enough rounds through it to really make a difference either way. I should also note that I do not use my AR for home defense, I am not an "operator", nor a competitor. If my gun fails, I make a frowny face, jot it down in my notebook, and continue on my merry way. In other words, the consequences of a gun failure are practically non-existent to me. Your situation may vary, so act accordingly.
Every 500 rounds or so, I'll really clean the bore with KG-1 Carbon Remover and a nylon brush. My barrel hardly gets any copper fouling, and KG-1 removes a slight amount of copper. Then I'll take apart my BCG and scrub everything clean. Also clean the inside of receiver and the barrel extension. Check that my trigger group is still clean, as well. This process can take hours depending on how clean you want it, which is why I don't usually worry about it.
Make sure when you clean your bore, that you use good cleaning techniques. A bore guide is a necessity if you want to keep your barrel as accurate as possible.
Re: Rifle cleaning question.
@temp9 What bore guide to use? and do you have a ar15 or large frame?
@temp9 What bore guide to use? and do you have a ar15 or large frame?
Re: Rifle cleaning question.
I don't understand the purpose of the bore guide. How can a brass (a soft metal) cleaning rod (assuming brass rods are the most common used), pushed carefully (not rammed like a maniac) through the bore cause any damage to a barrel (mine is stainless steel)? Especially when you consider the violent way thousands of rounds are punched into that chamber by the bolt and then hurdled down the barrel at speeds exceeding 3000 feet per second.
Not trying to stir up trouble or insult anyone, I just genuinely don't get it and would love for someone to correct my thinking if a correction is needed. I'm definitely trainable, so if I need some schooling, please give it to me.
I don't understand the purpose of the bore guide. How can a brass (a soft metal) cleaning rod (assuming brass rods are the most common used), pushed carefully (not rammed like a maniac) through the bore cause any damage to a barrel (mine is stainless steel)? Especially when you consider the violent way thousands of rounds are punched into that chamber by the bolt and then hurdled down the barrel at speeds exceeding 3000 feet per second.
Not trying to stir up trouble or insult anyone, I just genuinely don't get it and would love for someone to correct my thinking if a correction is needed. I'm definitely trainable, so if I need some schooling, please give it to me.
Re: Rifle cleaning question.
My cleanings are 5 min functional cleans. M-pro 7 and snake barrel. Break down and wipe reciever and bolt group, oil, and reassemble. My guns are duty weapons. They rarely go more than a week or two without use so spending a lot of time cleaning doesn't make sense.
My cleanings are 5 min functional cleans. M-pro 7 and snake barrel. Break down and wipe reciever and bolt group, oil, and reassemble. My guns are duty weapons. They rarely go more than a week or two without use so spending a lot of time cleaning doesn't make sense.
Re: Rifle cleaning question.
Pby5cat,
I have an AR15. The bore guide I use is the Gunslick bore guide. My rod fits a bit loose, so I also use one of those cone shaped muzzle protector things to center it in bore guide.
Grey,
No offense taken at all. That's an excellent question, and one I'm sure others can answer more accurately than I can. I'll give it my best shot, though. The damage done is generally on the throat and muzzle crown. The argument of soft materials not being able to harm hard materials is misleading and misunderstood. It is true that a brass cannot scratch hardened steel, however, brass can still cause deformations to steel. Denting/deforming is determined by stress (Force/Area), not hardness. If you want to see an extreme case of this, take a sharp knife blade and press the edge sideways on a brass rod. Many knives, especially cheaper ones, will hold a permanent deformation with little force. With enough force, even the best steels will deform.
A similar thing can happen on the throat and rifling (think impact damage). If the rod is inserted crooked (ie. no bore guide) it can contact the rifling near the chamber and cause dings (excuse the scientific lingo...). A ding in the throat can be enough to cause accuracy problems. The rod can also bow and do the same thing to the rifling near the middle of the barrel. This is bad, but won't have as much of an effect as a damaged throat.
Although this has little to do with a bore guide, many people have messed up the crowns on their rifles with brass rods and jags, as well. That thin corner on the muzzle is a stress point, as is the edge of your rifling. When impacted hard enough, it can and will accept a plastic deformation. I use brass jags exclusively, and have dinged the crown on my .22 rifle more than once by not paying attention when pulling my rod back through the muzzle.
It should also be noted that soft metal rods and nylon coated rods will pick up abrasives very easily. When the rod contacts the bore, it will abrade it unevenly. Unevenly is, in my mind, the key word here, and what separates this from what happens when you fire a copper bullet.
I'm not saying you couldn't get away with using no bore guide, but I don't feel saving $30 is worth risking a $450 barrel. Even if the bore guide only makes the barrel last 20% longer, that still saves you over $100 in barrel life.
Pby5cat,
I have an AR15. The bore guide I use is the Gunslick bore guide. My rod fits a bit loose, so I also use one of those cone shaped muzzle protector things to center it in bore guide.
Grey,
No offense taken at all. That's an excellent question, and one I'm sure others can answer more accurately than I can. I'll give it my best shot, though. The damage done is generally on the throat and muzzle crown. The argument of soft materials not being able to harm hard materials is misleading and misunderstood. It is true that a brass cannot scratch hardened steel, however, brass can still cause deformations to steel. Denting/deforming is determined by stress (Force/Area), not hardness. If you want to see an extreme case of this, take a sharp knife blade and press the edge sideways on a brass rod. Many knives, especially cheaper ones, will hold a permanent deformation with little force. With enough force, even the best steels will deform.
A similar thing can happen on the throat and rifling (think impact damage). If the rod is inserted crooked (ie. no bore guide) it can contact the rifling near the chamber and cause dings (excuse the scientific lingo...). A ding in the throat can be enough to cause accuracy problems. The rod can also bow and do the same thing to the rifling near the middle of the barrel. This is bad, but won't have as much of an effect as a damaged throat.
Although this has little to do with a bore guide, many people have messed up the crowns on their rifles with brass rods and jags, as well. That thin corner on the muzzle is a stress point, as is the edge of your rifling. When impacted hard enough, it can and will accept a plastic deformation. I use brass jags exclusively, and have dinged the crown on my .22 rifle more than once by not paying attention when pulling my rod back through the muzzle.
It should also be noted that soft metal rods and nylon coated rods will pick up abrasives very easily. When the rod contacts the bore, it will abrade it unevenly. Unevenly is, in my mind, the key word here, and what separates this from what happens when you fire a copper bullet.
I'm not saying you couldn't get away with using no bore guide, but I don't feel saving $30 is worth risking a $450 barrel. Even if the bore guide only makes the barrel last 20% longer, that still saves you over $100 in barrel life.
Re: Rifle cleaning question.
I do a thorough cleaning on the barrel with Butch's Bore Shine at about 300-400 rounds, or when accuracy degrades. I use a nylon brush a few times through during a full cleaning. I don't like to clean the copper fouling out of my barrel, so this type of cleaning is seldom.
I use a bore guide when I'm doing a barrel cleaning only because it was recommended by a friend in my earlier days. I figured there's no harm done using it still.
Otherwise, it's just a quick inspection for debris, clean the carbon of the bolt/firing pin, and lube every 100-200 rounds. Probably a 5 minute process. I like kujo929's cleaning. I've never had issues with my rotation; the gun's still shooting great after about 1000 rounds.
I do a thorough cleaning on the barrel with Butch's Bore Shine at about 300-400 rounds, or when accuracy degrades. I use a nylon brush a few times through during a full cleaning. I don't like to clean the copper fouling out of my barrel, so this type of cleaning is seldom.
I use a bore guide when I'm doing a barrel cleaning only because it was recommended by a friend in my earlier days. I figured there's no harm done using it still.
Otherwise, it's just a quick inspection for debris, clean the carbon of the bolt/firing pin, and lube every 100-200 rounds. Probably a 5 minute process. I like kujo929's cleaning. I've never had issues with my rotation; the gun's still shooting great after about 1000 rounds.
Re: Rifle cleaning question.
With the AR,I usually clean it when I feel like it or when it's about time to do an inspection to check for worn parts; and that's only because I have to clean it so that I can see the parts. Assuming that you have a chrome lined barrel, the bore really doesn't need any special attention. Brush it with Hoppe's and then run a bore snake through it.
I don't worry too much about getting all of the carbon off of the back of the bolt. It doesn't affect anything. I lube every 500 to 1000 rounds.
With the AR,I usually clean it when I feel like it or when it's about time to do an inspection to check for worn parts; and that's only because I have to clean it so that I can see the parts. Assuming that you have a chrome lined barrel, the bore really doesn't need any special attention. Brush it with Hoppe's and then run a bore snake through it.
I don't worry too much about getting all of the carbon off of the back of the bolt. It doesn't affect anything. I lube every 500 to 1000 rounds.
Re: Rifle cleaning question.
I clean the piss out of it, especially if I put a lot of rounds through it. AR's get damn dirty, and if you stay on top of it they will work like new. I'll run a few patches down the bore and hit it with Sweets after so many thousand rounds. It also helps to know what parts to lube, what not to, and how much. Too much in some places can make it dirtier, such as the back of the bolt itself.
If I shoot enough rounds, I may even break it down and wipe parts down at the range between shoots. Could just be habit, maybe it really doesn't need that much cleaning.
I generally don't have malfunctions unless I'm working with a new load either.
You should tear that bolt and carrier down everytime you have it apart. It will need to be cleaned before the barrel will most likely. It will be easier to clean if it is still warm too. Inside the carrier and the rear of the bolt accumulate a LOT of carbon. Dental picks are real handy and potentially free if you ask your dentist. Mine gave me a lifetime supply last time I went. If you own an AR, you should own one of those nylon toothbrushes and a dental pick to go along with your cleaning rod at minimum.
That carbon is stubborn, can look like part of the metal after a while too, but a liberal application or soak in Hoppes 9 for a bit will make it come off a lot easier too.
If you come back and don't have time to clean it, then just wipe it down and wipe your bolt and carrier liberally with oil or Hoppes. Just don't leave it that way too long, they can actually rust that way too by trapping water or condensate under the oil. But when you go to clean it, it will be a lot easier.
I never really got the point of a bore guide with brass or plastic tools either, what you say makes complete sense, but with an AR it will help prevent dragging crap from the chamber into the bore and vice versa when cleaning. The barrel extension/chamber area gets really nasty and kind of difficult to clean too.
A trick for that is to take a long, thin piece of rag and wrap that around smaller, worn out brush, This can be worked and crammed in there and then twisted and will wipe out what the brush breaks up. My little trick, works wonders.
I clean the piss out of it, especially if I put a lot of rounds through it. AR's get damn dirty, and if you stay on top of it they will work like new. I'll run a few patches down the bore and hit it with Sweets after so many thousand rounds. It also helps to know what parts to lube, what not to, and how much. Too much in some places can make it dirtier, such as the back of the bolt itself.
If I shoot enough rounds, I may even break it down and wipe parts down at the range between shoots. Could just be habit, maybe it really doesn't need that much cleaning.
I generally don't have malfunctions unless I'm working with a new load either.
You should tear that bolt and carrier down everytime you have it apart. It will need to be cleaned before the barrel will most likely. It will be easier to clean if it is still warm too. Inside the carrier and the rear of the bolt accumulate a LOT of carbon. Dental picks are real handy and potentially free if you ask your dentist. Mine gave me a lifetime supply last time I went. If you own an AR, you should own one of those nylon toothbrushes and a dental pick to go along with your cleaning rod at minimum.
That carbon is stubborn, can look like part of the metal after a while too, but a liberal application or soak in Hoppes 9 for a bit will make it come off a lot easier too.
If you come back and don't have time to clean it, then just wipe it down and wipe your bolt and carrier liberally with oil or Hoppes. Just don't leave it that way too long, they can actually rust that way too by trapping water or condensate under the oil. But when you go to clean it, it will be a lot easier.
I never really got the point of a bore guide with brass or plastic tools either, what you say makes complete sense, but with an AR it will help prevent dragging crap from the chamber into the bore and vice versa when cleaning. The barrel extension/chamber area gets really nasty and kind of difficult to clean too.
A trick for that is to take a long, thin piece of rag and wrap that around smaller, worn out brush, This can be worked and crammed in there and then twisted and will wipe out what the brush breaks up. My little trick, works wonders.
Re: Rifle cleaning question.
I run a bore snake or a brush and couple of patches on the barrel every few hundred rounds. I disassemble and clean the bolt carrier just about every time I shoot. Clean and well lubed bolt carrier will operate with fewer malfunctions. As for cleaning the chamber and locking lug recess, a Brownells ar15 chamber mop works about as good or better than anything else.
I run a bore snake or a brush and couple of patches on the barrel every few hundred rounds. I disassemble and clean the bolt carrier just about every time I shoot. Clean and well lubed bolt carrier will operate with fewer malfunctions. As for cleaning the chamber and locking lug recess, a Brownells ar15 chamber mop works about as good or better than anything else.
Re: Rifle cleaning question.
grey, I just went back and re-read your first post. Man, if you have a Noveske, you have what is arguably the best AR on the market right now.
Cleaning is definitely not one of those areas that you have to tear your hair out about. I don't mean any offense to anyone, but you'll hear all sorts of stories about having to run an AR sopping wet or having to keep it squeaky clean and well lubed to keep it running; but the truth of the matter is that a properly built AR will run no matter how dirty it is, as long as it is properly lubed and there isn't a piece of debris in the action big enough to impede it.
The only time I give my AR a thorough cleaning is when I've run it really hard or it is time to do a scheduled check. I clean it so that I can visually inspect the parts to check for wear or cracks and to change those parts that should be changed regularly, like the buffer spring, cam pin and gas rings.
grey, I just went back and re-read your first post. Man, if you have a Noveske, you have what is arguably the best AR on the market right now.
Cleaning is definitely not one of those areas that you have to tear your hair out about. I don't mean any offense to anyone, but you'll hear all sorts of stories about having to run an AR sopping wet or having to keep it squeaky clean and well lubed to keep it running; but the truth of the matter is that a properly built AR will run no matter how dirty it is, as long as it is properly lubed and there isn't a piece of debris in the action big enough to impede it.
The only time I give my AR a thorough cleaning is when I've run it really hard or it is time to do a scheduled check. I clean it so that I can visually inspect the parts to check for wear or cracks and to change those parts that should be changed regularly, like the buffer spring, cam pin and gas rings.
Re: Rifle cleaning question.
You can clean an AR? Really?
Seriously though I typically fire many hundreds of rounds through my LMT 10.5" SBR and BCM 16" Middy without cleaning.
I keep them generously lubed with Slip2000 EWL and have never had a malfunction with either in several years and many thousands of rounds.
When I occasionally inspect for worn or damaged parts, I may wipe down the BCG and inside of the upper receiver with a paper towel before lubing and reassembing.
I haven't been able to shoot them as much as I'd like lately (I've been mainly shooting IDPA when I've had the chance) and I think the last time I really cleaned them was back last fall. When I do I usually let the bolt soak in some Slip Carbon Cutter while I clean the carrier and barrel with some M-Pro 7. Once they are clean I scrub the bolt with carbon cutter and a toothbrush and wipe clean. Reassemble everything and lube with Slip.
These are more combat carbines with chrome lined barrels. If your Noveske is a Stainless barrel or setup as a more precision rifle you may want to consider a more aggressive cleaning schedule. However, I don't think you need to spend an hour cleaning it after every range trip though either.
You can clean an AR? Really?
Seriously though I typically fire many hundreds of rounds through my LMT 10.5" SBR and BCM 16" Middy without cleaning.
I keep them generously lubed with Slip2000 EWL and have never had a malfunction with either in several years and many thousands of rounds.
When I occasionally inspect for worn or damaged parts, I may wipe down the BCG and inside of the upper receiver with a paper towel before lubing and reassembing.
I haven't been able to shoot them as much as I'd like lately (I've been mainly shooting IDPA when I've had the chance) and I think the last time I really cleaned them was back last fall. When I do I usually let the bolt soak in some Slip Carbon Cutter while I clean the carrier and barrel with some M-Pro 7. Once they are clean I scrub the bolt with carbon cutter and a toothbrush and wipe clean. Reassemble everything and lube with Slip.
These are more combat carbines with chrome lined barrels. If your Noveske is a Stainless barrel or setup as a more precision rifle you may want to consider a more aggressive cleaning schedule. However, I don't think you need to spend an hour cleaning it after every range trip though either.
Re: Rifle cleaning question.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TonyAngel</div><div class="ubbcode-body">grey, I just went back and re-read your first post. Man, if you have a Noveske, you have what is arguably the best AR on the market right now.
Cleaning is definitely not one of those areas that you have to tear your hair out about. I don't mean any offense to anyone, but you'll hear all sorts of stories about having to run an AR sopping wet or having to keep it squeaky clean and well lubed to keep it running; but the truth of the matter is that a properly built AR will run no matter how dirty it is, as long as it is properly lubed and there isn't a piece of debris in the action big enough to impede it.
The only time I give my AR a thorough cleaning is when I've run it really hard or it is time to do a scheduled check. I clean it so that I can visually inspect the parts to check for wear or cracks and to change those parts that should be changed regularly, like the buffer spring, cam pin and gas rings. </div></div>
+1
Amen.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TonyAngel</div><div class="ubbcode-body">grey, I just went back and re-read your first post. Man, if you have a Noveske, you have what is arguably the best AR on the market right now.
Cleaning is definitely not one of those areas that you have to tear your hair out about. I don't mean any offense to anyone, but you'll hear all sorts of stories about having to run an AR sopping wet or having to keep it squeaky clean and well lubed to keep it running; but the truth of the matter is that a properly built AR will run no matter how dirty it is, as long as it is properly lubed and there isn't a piece of debris in the action big enough to impede it.
The only time I give my AR a thorough cleaning is when I've run it really hard or it is time to do a scheduled check. I clean it so that I can visually inspect the parts to check for wear or cracks and to change those parts that should be changed regularly, like the buffer spring, cam pin and gas rings. </div></div>
+1
Amen.
