Gunsmithing Rigid reamer holders

[flyfisherman246]

I have researched all I can find on different ways to hold a reamer in a manual lathe. I have come to the conclusion that a rigid set up seams to cut the truest chambers if everything is set up perfectly concentric and on the same axis of the spindle. It seams floating style holders are used to to cover up any error in the set up, but have their own set of problems.

I was kicking around the idea of using an MT3 er32 collet chuck in the tailstock. As far as truing the tailstock goes, its adjustable in and out, but not up and down. I am also reading that the height of the tailstock varies dependent on temperature and position on the ways. Also with the quill going in and out, this is one more thing to try to get perfect across the whole length of travel. This tailstock method doesn't seem to be the best with a rigid set up.

This leads to a collet chuck in a boring bar holder on the tool post on the carriage. This would be adjustable up, down, in, and out. How rigid of a set up is using the carriage? Are there any other downfalls to using the carriage other than having to dial it in for every chamber?

Are there any other rigid reamer holder set ups that I'm missing on a manual lathe? What is the preferred method?

Thanks,

 

[Killswitch Engage]

i guess i would like to know where you came to the conclusion that a rigid reamer holder results in a 'truer" chamber? using a manual machine and a floating holder my chambers come out .0001-.0000. i can say that i definitely like feeling how the reamer is cutting and how the barrel material is responding. there is some good feedback coming off of your hand on the reamer holder.

 

[flyfisherman246]

Sorry, I guess I shouldn't have said why I was looking to use a rigid reamer set up. I should have known that would turn into an argument. So let me ask that in a different way:

Anybody using a rigid reamer set up, how do you go about it?

Thanks

 

[skinnj1]

@flyfisherman246 of going with the rigid reamer holder I would use the carriage over the tailstock for the reasons you mention. I would also PM @DAVETOOLEY as he has discussed using this method in his pre cnc days IRC.

Nothing wrong with trying a different way to skin a cat if you have the time, tools and a spare blank but like @Killswitch Engage , I prefer to drive with a tailstock and feel how it is cutting / not have as much risk of overloading the reamer flutes with chips (less of a concern with high pressure coolant system)

 

[DAVETOOLEY]

Guys it has nothing absolutely nothing to do with how you hold the reamer. To a point. It's all about how you set up the barrel and to some degree the prep for the finish reamer. Physics says the reamer is going to the middle of the hole. Make the hole true then go to work. Don't complicate this. It's that simple. Do I have physical contact with my reamer? You bet I do as I want to track how it's cutting. I want to see changes coming.

 

[Landon4]

The reamer should follow the hole, everything before the reamer needs to be perfect as can be

 

[Wannashootit]

I know of one smith (used to be on this forum) that uses the ER collet setup you mention- between centers, with the steady set up so as to allow a very slight barrel "float". Reamer functions as the form cutter it is. Works for him...

 

[Rubicon Precision]

I’ve chambered barrels just about every way imaginable, and then some.

For just about everyone, a floating holder is going to be best. There’s just too much going on on a manual lathe to keep your reamer dead nuts aligned consistently. Sure, you can get it aligned, but then you change a tool, how long does it take you to ensure your reamer is aligned again?

I still use a JGS floating holder on the manual and am completely rigid in the turning center. I spent a lot of time getting my reamer tool station alligned dead nuts in the turning center and the tool holder never gets removed. I check it daily and it never moves. I sweep in the reamer bushing each time I change reamers to get that warm fuzzy feeling, but it’s really consistent. Most I have to do is loosen the collet, rotate the reamer and retighten. There’s no way I have the time or patients to verify/adjust the reamer each time I change it on the manual.
I do think my chambers are at least as good as any, if not better. I don’t think rigid/floating holders has to do with it though.
My opinion is unless you have a dedicated reamer station that never changes on your manual’s cross slide and a good DRO, a floating holder is best.

 

[DAVETOOLEY]

Here's a link to a friend of mine who put on paper the way to cut a chamber with a pusher. I was doing this for a number of years before we met. I like to tell the story that I taught him everything he knows. Doing the math that's been 30+ years for me. I still see no reason to change my methods. Attached pic is how I've done it since day one on my Haas.

http://www.bryantcustom.com/articles/rebarrel.htm

 

[308nate]

This is our system here at Straight Shot Gunsmithing.
Not in a manual machine, but it may help you with ideas.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>