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RRS 34/Anvil-30

SLG

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 2, 2009
844
360
Mine arrived today. It is awesome. Even comes with a nice padded cover for the head.

Anyone know how to mount an arca plate on a legacy AICS chassis?
 
I'm using the RRS chassis plate

20180517_210409.jpg
 
I'm pretty sure you can't mount those plates on the legacy AICS chassis. Don't they use the key slots?
 
No one has mounted an arca type rail to a legacy chassis?

How about a pic rail? I'm finding that I may actually prefer the pic rail option on the anvil 30. It is not as fast to adjust forward or back as the arca, but it doesn't need little safety screws either. Plus, I'm not sure that speedy movement fore and aft is as important as I once did.

Just for fun, my Fix, mounted in the 34 tripod, actually weighs less than my AI setups on the ground. Interesting stuff for the guy who has to carry everything.
 
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Are you pretty happy with the rail the way it is? Do you wish it was further back towards the magwell?
 
I currently have a 34L with the BH55 ballhead, going this same way .....
 
Like most people here, shooting with an Anvil 30 is a completely new experience for me. I have used the BH 55 and a Vyce before, but never the new to market 30. Under recoil (308, nothing crazy), the head loses its position a little bit. Is this normal?
 
Like most people here, shooting with an Anvil 30 is a completely new experience for me. I have used the BH 55 and a Vyce before, but never the new to market 30. Under recoil (308, nothing crazy), the head loses its position a little bit. Is this normal?

I shot it. It locked solid, I did not see any more "change of lockup" than the leveling base. But you should note that the tripod itself (any tripod) often moves position under recoil on the soil, even if ultra slight.

All that said, I find the best results with results without completely locking the gun down. Square hips, bent waist; letting the rearward facing leg and the solid body position deal with the recoil, even thought the shooter load is rather light; self-spotting is good, wobble is reduced. It is also easier to fine tune on the target.
 
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In this case, I'm shooting off a wooden deck. The head is moving, rather than the legs, because the bubble level gets more and more out of line as I shoot. I'm holding sub moa very easily, but maybe I'm putting more load on it than I need to.
 
Diver, did you have a pic rail on your aics chassis before switching to the HRD rail? If so, which was it?
 
Diver, did you have a pic rail on your aics chassis before switching to the HRD rail? If so, which was it?

yes, I had the long AI pick rails with their version of the key mod..

Honestly, before the new RRS Harris and Atlas dual use adapters, I'd had to guess the one position that would work on the sage, because even with the ADM170 QR there was not time to fumble with it. Now, slide go and adjust if needed.. RRS has really up all our games.
 
Ah ok, so that was not a legacy chassis then.
 
Ah ok, so that was not a legacy chassis then.
sorry, I have one on the supr old one.. not pictured, but it is the SAME HRD gear rail. Because it has a long slot it really works with almost anything. I had one on a Manors, but just traded the stock
 
@SLG If you want to, you can play with the timing of the head. We ship it at a torque rating of 35 ft-lbs which is pretty much the same as the ta-3 leveling base and more than the bh-55 lr but you can time the anvil yourself if you need it much stronger. Watch the video on the listing, also look at the warranty info on the listing as well if you are wanting to time it ridiculously strong. The stronger you make the closed strength, the stronger the open tension will be.
 
sorry, I have one on the supr old one.. not pictured, but it is the SAME HRD gear rail. Because it has a long slot it really works with almost anything. I had one on a Manors, but just traded the stock
I thought that the newer chassis' all had the key slot bottom, and ASS-umed that the HRD rail attached via those. I didn't realize the same rail would fit both old and new.

How did it attach to the Manners?
 
@SLG If you want to, you can play with the timing of the head. We ship it at a torque rating of 35 ft-lbs which is pretty much the same as the ta-3 leveling base and more than the bh-55 lr but you can time the anvil yourself if you need it much stronger. Watch the video on the listing, also look at the warranty info on the listing as well if you are wanting to time it ridiculously strong. The stronger you make the closed strength, the stronger the open tension will be.
I remember you mentioning that in another thread, but I'm loathe to mess with it just yet. Does it sound to you like that is what I should do at this point?
 
I thought that the newer chassis' all had the key slot bottom, and ASS-umed that the HRD rail attached via those. I didn't realize the same rail would fit both old and new.

How did it attach to the Manners?

On the old ACIS I used ground down T-nuts (both the DIA and length).. On the Mannors and several other stocks.. I also used the same T-nuts but the then counter sync them from the barrel channel.. The long slot on the HRD rails makes it easy. Before Henderson m-lock, HRD Gear ets.. I used long camera plates... some would not lock solidly in the RRS clamps, but the correct 1.5" ones did.
 
@SLG i all depends on your shooting style. If you are shooting and you want to minimize the movement you are seeing you could definitely update the tension. Just remove the bottom screw under the handle when the lever is half opened. Lift off the lever and re-position it a few teeth stronger and try that. Make sure to work your way up to your desired strength.
 
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