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Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

I don't have it myself, but it was discussed here a little while ago. It seems that most who spent the $175 or whatever it is now on the trigger do like it better than the factory trigger. However, with the RPR trigger being pretty damn good, most also said the price of the Timney was a bit high for whatever advantage it gave you over the factory trigger. I can usually tell right away if I'm going to replace a trigger on any of my rifles. The factory is performing more than satisfactory for me.
 
Looking at the seekins or midwest rail. Anybody have a preference, the original on a gen 1 is flexing with a bipod on it. The battle arms rail also looked interesting. Im looking for the most stable.
 
I know the info is here somewhere but I have no luck with the search function. What magazine allows the longest OAL while remaining 100% reliable? What is the OAL.
 
Hey all,
What is the latest on the Timney trigger for the RPR? My stock trigger breaks pretty nice, but it is a bit heavier than I like. I have read some stuff with mixed reviews. How do you think it compares to the factory trigger?

I installed the Timney 2 stage in my RPR a couple months ago. I am very happy that I spent the $. While the factory trigger was pretty good, the Timney, is a Timney. Easy install, breaks clean, no creep (that I can discern)...worth it.
Good luck with your decision.
 
I need help. I have ordered the magpul gen 3 stock for my RPR. What is the buffer tube that I will be needing? Is it just the tube or the entire buffer assembly
 
Looking at the seekins or midwest rail. Anybody have a preference, the original on a gen 1 is flexing with a bipod on it. The battle arms rail also looked interesting. Im looking for the most stable.

Probably can't go wrong with any of the 3. I have the Seekins and it is rock solid. Flat bottom is nice and stable. I shoot of a front rest some and I made a bag rider. Works great with the flat bottom as well.



 
I need help. I have ordered the magpul gen 3 stock for my RPR. What is the buffer tube that I will be needing? Is it just the tube or the entire buffer assembly

The gen 3 works with the stock tube, however I recommend getting a full length buffer tube for added rigidity.
 
I need help. I have ordered the magpul gen 3 stock for my RPR. What is the buffer tube that I will be needing? Is it just the tube or the entire buffer assembly

Also make sure you get the bolt that holds the stock to the receiver really tight. I didn’t have mine tight enough at first and it rotated on me while shooting.
 
In reference to the Ruger trigger.... Has anyone attempted to remove the safety blade from the assembly? If that was gone, It would be a acceptable. I have mine broken in really well and it's a very good trigger, I just hate that thingy in the shoe.

Griz
 
There used to be a tool that let you swage primer pockets toght again on brass that was otherwise usable, could get another 5-6 reloads out of them if they weren't being overworked in a tight die/sloppy chamber. I'll see if I can dig it up and post it.

Made by Hart, save you money and just by the brass. Not worth it IMO. Had one.
 
Here's my gen1

LRI .890 22" .308 barrel
419 Hellfire brake
PRI stock
Leupold Mark 4 5-20x50 ffp M5 TMR
Leupold Mark 4 steel high rings
LRI shroud
B.A. ambi safety
Timney trigger
NP3 coated bolt
 

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Does anyone have the measurement of center of barrell to the scope rail? Im trying to get my ballistic calculator more accurate
 
Does anyone have the measurement of center of barrell to the scope rail? Im trying to get my ballistic calculator more accurate

Why would you need that? You need center bore to center of reticle. Correction, not reticle but center of tube, roughly the center of the windage knob.
 
Why would you need that? You need center bore to center of reticle. Correction, not reticle but center of tube, roughly the center of the windage knob.

yeah what lefty said if you are looking for the offset to plug into your ballistics program. So use the small gas vent hole in the receiver and measure from that to the center of the windage knob.

 
It's easier for me because where I shoot, the targets are only at known distances. So if I develope a new load, I'll use my ballistic app to get me on paper. Then I will record my zero for that distance. Temperature effects me the most where I shoot. So I'll usually record two zeroes for each distance. One for hotter weather and one for colder weather. If I had to shoot at unknown distances in between, I can use my zeroes for known distances to make adjustments for the unknown. Knowing the path my bullet now takes, any slight offset won't effect me. But of course it's ideal to not have one.
 
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yeah what lefty said if you are looking for the offset to plug into your ballistics program. So use the small gas vent hole in the receiver and measure from that to the center of the windage knob.

He needs to top of rail because he knows height of mount (from top of rail to optical center). Just did this with my AI because I knew mount height over rail, but not height from center of bore.
 
I need height from center of barrel to top of rail. I have the other measurements. I would have thought someone would already measured it
 
I need height from center of barrel to top of rail. I have the other measurements. I would have thought someone would already measured it

Measure diameter of the bolt, then get the distance from the top of the bolt to the top of the rail. Add distance from top of bolt to top of rail to HALF the diameter of the bolt. You can do this with a piece of string, a ruler, and some math.
 
I need height from center of barrel to top of rail. I have the other measurements. I would have thought someone would already measured it

use the gas vent hole in the action to measure from.

 
MEasure with calipers from teh bottom of the barrel to the top of the rail. Measure the diameter of the barrel at the same point and take half of the barrel diameter from the bottom of the barrel to the top of the rail. That should give you the distance from the middle of the bore to the top of the rail.

Am i just a tool for pronouncing RPR as ‘reaper’? I know someone else had a Reaper model before this.
 
What brake seems to be working best for the RPRs? Please don’t say a can, still on wait :(
 
^ I like that one. That's what I did. Just tried something cheap and it worked out great
 
What brake seems to be working best for the RPRs? Please don’t say a can, still on wait :(

Depending on what can you're waiting for, if it has a QD attachment, you can get the QD brake ahead of time. I have that setup using a thunderbeast ultra 6.5. Excellent consistency with minimal poi shift with the can on.
 
Well I finally got to run my RPR/Athlon in a club match yesterday.

Both worked flawlessly... and I did fair as well. In a 70 round match not one feed issue. Balistic Arc was spot on and not one miss was due to bad DOPE.

The Athlon tracked and returned to zero. The reticle is very useable for me. Only one time did I have an issue with the eye box, but that was positional shooting from the ground using the left side of a rooftop barricade. Just flat awkard .

My plan was to time out as many stages as possible and get hits not to fire every round. I shot 44 of 65 rounds and had 22 hits, placing smack in the middle of the 56 shooters at 22nd. For now I'll take 50% and start more practice with my sling cause that kicked my ass, and cost me 4 easy points!

All said the change to the RPR was money well spent and I've no regrets. The Athlon might not be the most expensive or come with all the extras but it works..... for me!
 
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Glad to hear the RPR and Athlon combo worked well for you. Just mounted mine on my RPR and waiting to get out and shoot. So far, it looks like a winning combo to me, too!
 
Well I finally got to run my RPR/Athlon in a club match yesterday.

Both worked flawlessly... and I did fair as well. In a 70 round match not one feed issue. Balistic Arc was spot on and not one miss was due to bad DOPE.

The Athlon tracked and returned to zero. The reticle is very useable for me. Only one time did I have an issue with the eye box, but that was positional shooting from the ground using the left side of a rooftop barricade. Just flat awkard .

My plan was to time out as many stages as possible and get hits not to fire every round. I shot 44 of 65 rounds and had 22 hits, placing smack in the middle of the 56 shooters at 22nd. For now I'll take 50% and start more practice with my sling cause that kicked my ass, and cost me 4 easy points!

All said the change to the RPR was money well spent and I've no regrets. The Athlon might not be the most expensive or come with all the extras but it works..... for me!

good to hear the positive feedback. Which Athlon? I have an Argos I like a lot and have been wanting an Ares for the new rifle.

 
It' the Ares btr 4.5x27 so far so good. Had 4 or 5 stages that had multiple distances and no trouble dialing up or down. Returned to zero fine.

I can't complain about either very happy with the RPR glad I went to the 6.5CM
 
It' the Ares btr 4.5x27 so far so good. Had 4 or 5 stages that had multiple distances and no trouble dialing up or down. Returned to zero fine.

I can't complain about either very happy with the RPR glad I went to the 6.5CM

Glad to hear that's working on the RPR. I started with a .308 barrel on mine and switched it out to 6.5 and have never looked back either..
 
When are they doing left hand version?

Savage already has the BA in 6,5cm for lefties, hell even DT does a lefty
 
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Good question. I know a lot of guys were waiting for the 5.56 version and that took quite a while before they released that.
 
Can you re-barrel an RPR with out the barrel nut (like lots of guys do with a Savage), or is the nut kind of a necessity?

I already have a barrel vice. I swap barrels all the time on my F-TR rifles.
 
Can you re-barrel an RPR with out the barrel nut (like lots of guys do with a Savage), or is the nut kind of a necessity?

I already have a barrel vice. I swap barrels all the time on my F-TR rifles.

All you need is a new barrel made for the RPR; you can re-use everything that's already on your gun now; don't think you can do it without the existing hardware. I changed barrels 3 times already on my two RPRs and it's pretty easy. several videos out there, too.
 
I’ve been reading through here and I have read a couple posts found in the search function. What I can’t find is has someone replaced the stock ruger hybrid brake with a quality aftermarket one like a little bastard, PVA, or MPA brake? Was it worth the money? I’m just trying to eliminate some of the barrel hop and stay on target a little better. Thanks!
 
Warning this post ended up way longer than I intended.

Initially I was disappointed and surprised at how the feel and function of the bolt and trigger felt after getting my new RPR home. The Trigger didn’t feel very smooth & seems slightly diff with each pull, the safety was very gritty took more effort than i knew it should. The bolt didn’t appear to have any grease on the lugs so didn’t have that feeling when throwing the bolt, ya know that solid satisfying sound.

Anyways I’ve always cleaned my forearms after buying and heading to the range but this is the first time I’ve had to spray out a trigger assembly and re-lube fresh from the box. The sear did have grease on it but all the pins didn’t were very dry and rotating them with my fingers I could feel the roughness in them. Sprayed cleaner on all and blew en out then worked in oil on the pins shafts and that made a big difference.

Went thru the manual re greased & oiled where instructed with some M-Pro stuff I had, reassembled and function checked and instantly felt the difference.

Did some Dry firing to really get the new feel and night and day & also the bolt has that solid satisfying feel I’m No longer disappointed with the feel of the rifle. Now to get it to the range and break in the barrel & sight in the scope.
 
Warning this post ended up way longer than I intended.

Initially I was disappointed and surprised at how the feel and function of the bolt and trigger felt after getting my new RPR home. The Trigger didn’t feel very smooth & seems slightly diff with each pull, the safety was very gritty took more effort than i knew it should. The bolt didn’t appear to have any grease on the lugs so didn’t have that feeling when throwing the bolt, ya know that solid satisfying sound.

Anyways I’ve always cleaned my forearms after buying and heading to the range but this is the first time I’ve had to spray out a trigger assembly and re-lube fresh from the box. The sear did have grease on it but all the pins didn’t were very dry and rotating them with my fingers I could feel the roughness in them. Sprayed cleaner on all and blew en out then worked in oil on the pins shafts and that made a big difference.

Went thru the manual re greased & oiled where instructed with some M-Pro stuff I had, reassembled and function checked and instantly felt the difference.

Did some Dry firing to really get the new feel and night and day & also the bolt has that solid satisfying feel I’m No longer disappointed with the feel of the rifle. Now to get it to the range and break in the barrel & sight in the scope.

How does cleaning your forearms help?