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Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

Has anyone heard if the Ruger Precision Rifle Gen 2 is being discontinued? I was in the gun store the other day and he looked up the availability of a 6.5, the wholesale company had it listed as some stock however discontinued.

I wonder if Ruger is getting ready to release a Gen 3 at the Vegas gun show?
 
vscorsa said:
Has anyone heard if the Ruger Precision Rifle Gen 2 is being discontinued? I was in the gun store the other day and he looked up the availability of a 6.5, the wholesale company had it listed as some stock however discontinued.

I wonder if Ruger is getting ready to release a Gen 3 at the Vegas gun show?
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Nah. They are changing the Handguard so there is a new sku. Switching to MLOK.
 
Great thanks for the feedback, I was wondering whether I should get one of the current ones or wait a couple of weeks.
 
keystoneshooter said:
Just a few questions, I have traded for a 6mm creedmoor rpr and it won't hardly chamber hornady 108eldm factory ammo they are jammed into lands hard.. Factory ammo measures 2.790 oal,

My dummy round that cycles well slight jam 2.690 oal

Anyone seen this?
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Its interesting you mention this. I have a gen 1 .308. It never did this with factory ammo, but did when I first started reloading. I measure all my rounds to 2.80". Every time I went out, 2 or 3 rounds would jam and the bullets would be scored from the rifling. Since it only happened a couple times each trip, I just figured it was my mistake reloading, especially since I was new to reloading at the time.

However, one day I went out and my barrel nut came loose all on its own. I tightened the barrel nut back up (to I think 70 ft lbs). I don't know if it's directly related, but I do know that I've never had a single problem ever since.


 
BANG...ping said:
Anybody using a Seekins SP3R V3 rail on their RPR? Getting into PRS and thought the flat bottom might work for me. What do you like about it? What don't you like? This will see heavy use. Does it bolt up solid?

Thanks,
Bang
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New on the forums here. Hi Bang. I have the SP3R V3 rail on my RPR and it's Top Notch Good. The *handguard nut is a very secure design, followed up with 12 screws to keep the handguard in place. (yes 12 screws). MUCH better than the 2 that held the Samson on. The flat bottom of the Seekins is great to shoot off bags as well, the only issue I ran in to was that I needed a very low profile bipod mount for my Harris bipod to fit flush. I think you'd be pleased with your purchase if you decided to buy. Best of luck!!
 
LongrangeLefty

I checked the nut it is tight.


called ruger to ask about how much free bore I should have didn't get a number, they asked what measurement I was getting.

they overnighted it back to there place to look at it. Should know something pretty quick the lady said.

Super nice people to deal with so far ill let you guys know what comes of it.
 
^ Well that's good. Almost everyone has said they're fast and friendly. I'm sure they'll sort it out.
 
Given that the RPR barrels are cold hammer forged, if a barrel's freebore is too short, wouldn't all the barrels built from the same mandrel have the same issue?
 
I just got Carrie (named after my mother in law) back from a local Cerakote. Got a box full of ammo through her and just love it so far. Can't wait for the weather to break and start really getting to know her inside and out....that sounded dirty.
 

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mensajd said:
Given that the RPR barrels are cold hammer forged, if a barrel's freebore is too short, wouldn't all the barrels built from the same mandrel have the same issue?
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Figured I would call and ask ruger about it I just couldn't imagine them making the the free bore where your jamming factory ammo.

I reload not a biggie ill let you know what they say

I didn't know they didn't cut chambers with a reamer. Don't really know anything about cold hammer forged barrels.
 
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The current number for the gen 2+ .308W is 18028 it was 18004. Most big dealers are discounting the hell out of them.
 
RPP Bipod Thoughts
So, I previously purchased an GG&G XDS-2 QD bipod for my 6.5 Ruger Precision Rifle. I liked the design and light weight. I went with the quick detach model in order to be able to swap it onto other rifles and justify the cost. (I normally just go with a Harris 6-9).
The GG&G was nice but it was very apparent that it was not sturdy enough for the Ruger. The seller, Operation Parts agreed to take it back and give me credit bit now I'm not sure what to get. I will gladly give up swivel and/or cant as well as QD to get more rigidity. Although, QD would still be nice.
They sell Atlas bipods, but they all look like variations of the BT-10 which I had previously read mixed reviews on. They also sell a tango down monopod, bipod that attaches on each side of the rail. It looks interesting, but may not be tall enough. Each leg is 10" long, fully extended, and depending upon the angle they attach at, it may wind up being too short. I am also not opposed to another GG&G bipod, but would like to hear from someone with firsthand experience.
I do a descent amount of shooting prone at 200 yds. I have some crapy bags that aren't big enough. I plan to get to a range that goes out to 1,600 this summer and want to ring steel at 1,000.
Also, I do intend to upgrade the Samson a Midwest 18" rail in the near future, so flex shouldn't be an issue.
 
Bravo_Bravo said:
RPP Bipod Thoughts
So, I previously purchased an GG&G XDS-2 QD bipod for my 6.5 Ruger Precision Rifle. I liked the design and light weight. I went with the quick detach model in order to be able to swap it onto other rifles and justify the cost. (I normally just go with a Harris 6-9).
The GG&G was nice but it was very apparent that it was not sturdy enough for the Ruger. The seller, Operation Parts agreed to take it back and give me credit bit now I'm not sure what to get. I will gladly give up swivel and/or cant as well as QD to get more rigidity. Although, QD would still be nice.
They sell Atlas bipods, but they all look like variations of the BT-10 which I had previously read mixed reviews on. They also sell a tango down monopod, bipod that attaches on each side of the rail. It looks interesting, but may not be tall enough. Each leg is 10" long, fully extended, and depending upon the angle they attach at, it may wind up being too short. I am also not opposed to another GG&G bipod, but would like to hear from someone with firsthand experience.
I do a descent amount of shooting prone at 200 yds. I have some crapy bags that aren't big enough. I plan to get to a range that goes out to 1,600 this summer and want to ring steel at 1,000.
Also, I do intend to upgrade the Samson a Midwest 18" rail in the near future, so flex shouldn't be an issue.
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I suggest an atlas BT35 LW17
 
TacticalDillhole said:
I suggest an atlas BT35 LW17
Click to expand...

That's a great option but if it's a bit out of your price range, I also recommend the BT10. Regardless of the product you read reviews on, you're going to get some folks that like something a lot and others that hate, but I think a very solid choice. I now have them on all my precision rifles and have never had one fail to keep me on target. Just stay away from the Chinese knock-offs. I also have several of the Harris variants but think the Atlas is a step up, although Harris remains tried and true.
 
Bravo_Bravo said:
RPP Bipod Thoughts
So, I previously purchased an GG&G XDS-2 QD bipod for my 6.5 Ruger Precision Rifle. I liked the design and light weight. I went with the quick detach model in order to be able to swap it onto other rifles and justify the cost. (I normally just go with a Harris 6-9).
The GG&G was nice but it was very apparent that it was not sturdy enough for the Ruger. The seller, Operation Parts agreed to take it back and give me credit bit now I'm not sure what to get. I will gladly give up swivel and/or cant as well as QD to get more rigidity. Although, QD would still be nice.
They sell Atlas bipods, but they all look like variations of the BT-10 which I had previously read mixed reviews on. They also sell a tango down monopod, bipod that attaches on each side of the rail. It looks interesting, but may not be tall enough. Each leg is 10" long, fully extended, and depending upon the angle they attach at, it may wind up being too short. I am also not opposed to another GG&G bipod, but would like to hear from someone with firsthand experience.
I do a descent amount of shooting prone at 200 yds. I have some crapy bags that aren't big enough. I plan to get to a range that goes out to 1,600 this summer and want to ring steel at 1,000.
Also, I do intend to upgrade the Samson a Midwest 18" rail in the near future, so flex shouldn't be an issue.
Click to expand...

I suggest an atlas as well. Pricey but worth it if you can save up for it. I have a Harris as well and prefer my atlas over it.
 
Check out the Sinclair Tactical Bipod too. Best I've ever had
 

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jsigone said:
change up from my AACSD 308, I'm new to the RPR, just got a 6.5c model. First range trip was yesterday, after zero and chrono. Factory 140g ELD and 147g ELD. Pushed out to targets we setup at 375y, 512y, 545y, and 935y. Soda cans along with 8" steel plates at the lower 3 distances. Safe to say my RPR is soda can accurate at 545 yards. Scope is the weaver tactical 3-15 ffp EMDR (mil/mil) on ADM recon SL one pc mount. Shot 140s most the day, only used the 147s to chrono with.

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Isn't the ADM recon SL a 30 MOA mount? Without switching the factory rail to a zero MOA base you would have 50 MOA, correct?
 
^ The SL is available in both 20 and 30 MOA. It's a nice addition to the rail. I got my Warne in 20 MOA
 
LongRangeLefty said:
^ The SL is available in both 20 and 30 MOA. It's a nice addition to the rail. I got my Warne in 20 MOA
Click to expand...

I'm asking because I need a new 34mm mount or rings to mount a 4.5-29x56 Athlon Cronus to my RPR. I was considering the ADM Recon and the Recon SL.

My goal is to go out to 1,000 with 6.5 CM. 20 MOA seems about right and 40 MOA seems like overkill. Check my math: 1 MOA at 1,000 yds is 10.47". I am expecting ~250" of drop based on a zero of 200 yards and the Ruger factory 20 MOA base gives me 209.4" of compensation at 1,000. Correct?
 
^ That seems correct to me. When I first started shooting at 1000 I was using a $130 BSA Contender with 0 MOA mount on the factory 20 MOA rail, and that was with the .308. You'll have no problem getting to 1000 with the 20 MOA rail with the 6.5
 
Bravo_Bravo said:
I'm asking because I need a new 34mm mount or rings to mount a 4.5-29x56 Athlon Cronus to my RPR. I was considering the ADM Recon and the Recon SL.

My goal is to go out to 1,000 with 6.5 CM. 20 MOA seems about right and 40 MOA seems like overkill. Check my math: 1 MOA at 1,000 yds is 10.47". I am expecting ~250" of drop based on a zero of 200 yards and the Ruger factory 20 MOA base gives me 209.4" of compensation at 1,000. Correct?
Click to expand...

Why would you zero at 200?
 
If you are going to use your rifle for hunting as well as target, then I would recommend a 100 yard zero. You will be fine with the 20MOA built into the rifle at 1K. I have 2 different scopes on one-piece mounts for quick change of duty I use on mine, a low power 44mm for hunting out to 500 yards and a high magnification 50mm for long range target (out to 1250 yards).
 
straightshooter1 said:
Yup . . . that's EXACTLY it. It all depends on what you want and how you want to go about it. Kinda like cars, huh??? ;)

I've added nothing to my RPR and with hand loading am consistently getting sub .5 MOA. Oh, but I did do a little tweaking . . . which only consisted of removing the trigger adjustment spring to get less than a 1 lb pull (I REALLY like the way the trigger feels now) and fire lapped the barrel. If I wanted to do more to this rifle, to replace things with "better" things, I wouldn't have bought it to start with. I am looking forward to getting a high quality custom barrel for it after I put a few more hundred rounds through it.

I'd really like to get a Proof carbon fiber barrel to best handle the summer heat here in AZ, but I'm finding it really hard to justify the cost when there are some really good barrels for almost half the cost.
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Hello striaghtshooter1, I am new to LR shooting and new to this forum. Have been reading through older post for education. Have a Ruger PR in .308. Your post of removing the trigger adjustment spring to get less than one pound pull interest me. Did you do any other polishing or honing of the sear? Is there any way to remove the blade in the trigger? Any safety issues with this mod? Mine is now at 1lb 10oz. at full adjustment.

Thanks DannC
 
I don't think modifying the trigger past the adjustment points is a good idea. If you really want a different trigger you can replace it with a drop in trigger for about $200. You might have safety issues if you mess with it too much. The Rugger trigger was designed that way for a reason. Many love the two stage triggers from Timney.
 
Has anyone noticed the RPR shoots better after the first group? It sounds strange but mine shoots better after the first group? It's like it needs to warm up. I only have about 140 rounds through it so it might be a break in thing. I shoot a 4 100 yrd 5 shot grops. .886", .644", .586" and finnaly .226". Each 5 shot group got better. The .226 is the best I have ever shot so I'm happy. it's just strange the first shots were the worst.
 
msweeten said:
Has anyone noticed the RPR shoots better after the first group? It sounds strange but mine shoots better after the first group? It's like it needs to warm up. I only have about 140 rounds through it so it might be a break in thing. I shoot a 4 100 yrd 5 shot grops. .886", .644", .586" and finnaly .226". Each 5 shot group got better. The .226 is the best I have ever shot so I'm happy. it's just strange the first shots were the worst.
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Not so strange. Most of my rifles, the RPR included, do not really like being too clean. In benchrest they call it pre-match fouling. It's a matter of reaching an equilibrium. When a barrel is clean, the first few shots deviate because every shot is being made with a barrel in a different state. After a few shots, the barrel is at an equilibrium so all subsequent shots are being shot down a barrel in the same repeatable condition. Before hunting, I always go out to the range and put 10 rounds down the tube, so my first shot hunting will be exactly where I set zero.
Griz
 
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msweeten said:
Has anyone noticed the RPR shoots better after the first group? It sounds strange but mine shoots better after the first group? It's like it needs to warm up. I only have about 140 rounds through it so it might be a break in thing. I shoot a 4 100 yrd 5 shot grops. .886", .644", .586" and finnaly .226". Each 5 shot group got better. The .226 is the best I have ever shot so I'm happy. it's just strange the first shots were the worst.
Click to expand...

Mine definitely needs a couple groups through it from the start. Especially after cleaning. My Remington is the same way. After 2-3 5 round group the barrel seems to tighten up. Could just be me getting relaxed also.
 
Hardpan said:
Mine definitely needs a couple groups through it from the start. Especially after cleaning. My Remington is the same way. After 2-3 5 round group the barrel seems to tighten up. Could just be me getting relaxed also.
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Thanks I'm glad It's normal. With that said my RPR is shooting very consistently around .5 " at 100. Like I said above, the first few groups go to about .8 then settle down to around .5
 
When I first received my RPR I had a few small issues. Here is what I found to fix them. I have the GEN 2, 6.5 cm, Vortex Viper 6-26 X 50 with tall Vortex Precision rings and a Harris bi-pod.

First it looks like they did not de-burr the parts before coating them. This leaves sharp edges and small amounts of metal at the edges. One, it does not feel good to have sharp edges and two, some of the parts don't fit well. When I picked up my rifle they had to use a hammer to push the button to fold the stock. They stated they had to do that with every RPR they received. The issue can be fixed with 330 or finer sand paper and a small dowel or hex key to wrap the sand paper around. I just knock down the burrs around the stock locking hole. I used some grease and just went slow until it opened with only a slight rub. I then worked the button back and forth about 30 times to mate the two. It now works very smooth with no play at all.
On the keyed part that locks into the stock, I had to file a rough end so that that part can rotate to lock the stock into the folded position. Some don't even know the stock locks back. I also added a small peal and stick black rubber bumper to the cheek knob so it doesn't rub on the rifle. This also helps align the folded stock so you can lock it in the folded position.

Another issue is the bolt hits a valley 3/4 back so it's not as smooth as it could be. This is due to the miss alignment of a piece that should be flush with the action but is not. If you work the action enough times it will smooth out but it shouldn't have to . If you wanted to take the gun apart and refit the piece then the bolt will run smooth except for the zipper nose that is due to not polishing out the machining. The zipper noise is slowly going away. Also, make sure you torque all the bolts, many were loose. I have pictures that illustrates all this but they are too large at the moment to post.
 
Robo said:
That's a great option but if it's a bit out of your price range, I also recommend the BT10. Regardless of the product you read reviews on, you're going to get some folks that like something a lot and others that hate, but I think a very solid choice. I now have them on all my precision rifles and have never had one fail to keep me on target. Just stay away from the Chinese knock-offs. I also have several of the Harris variants but think the Atlas is a step up, although Harris remains tried and true.
Click to expand...

The BT35 LW17 is outside of the budget.

Right now the debate is between the Accu Tac SR-5 and an Atlas. I am currently trying to understand the difference between the BT-10 and the Atlas PSR. There is about a $40 price difference between the two and they look identical. When you're talking this kind of money, $40 isn't much more to get something that is supposed to be better. But then again, $40 isn't too far away from getting a Harris for my 5.56 DMR.
 
TacticalDillhole said:
Why would you zero at 200?
Click to expand...
Griz44Mag said:
If you are going to use your rifle for hunting as well as target, then I would recommend a 100 yard zero. You will be fine with the 20MOA built into the rifle at 1K. I have 2 different scopes on one-piece mounts for quick change of duty I use on mine, a low power 44mm for hunting out to 500 yards and a high magnification 50mm for long range target (out to 1250 yards).
Click to expand...

The farthest distance range nearby is 200 yards. Zeroing at 100 isn't a problem.
 
Bravo_Bravo said:
The BT35 LW17 is outside of the budget.

Right now the debate is between the Accu Tac SR-5 and an Atlas. I am currently trying to understand the difference between the BT-10 and the Atlas PSR. There is about a $40 price difference between the two and they look identical. When you're talking this kind of money, $40 isn't much more to get something that is supposed to be better. But then again, $40 isn't too far away from getting a Harris for my 5.56 DMR.
Click to expand...

The PSR has a quick disconnect mount, swivel and cant.
 
msweeten said:
I don't think modifying the trigger past the adjustment points is a good idea. If you really want a different trigger you can replace it with a drop in trigger for about $200. You might have safety issues if you mess with it too much. The Rugger trigger was designed that way for a reason. Many love the two stage triggers from Timney.
Click to expand...
I have a RPR Gen II 6.5 with a Timney two stage. The break is really nice.
 
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mensajd said:
Given that the RPR barrels are cold hammer forged, if a barrel's freebore is too short, wouldn't all the barrels built from the same mandrel have the same issue?
Click to expand...

Not barrel makers have the chamber built into the mandrel. Some makers finish ream the chamber, some cold forge everything at once.

Don't know which way Ruger does it.
 
msweeten said:
Thanks I'm glad It's normal. With that said my RPR is shooting very consistently around .5 " at 100. Like I said above, the first few groups go to about .8 then settle down to around .5
Click to expand...

That’s great! Good shooting!
 
msweeten said:
Thanks I'm glad It's normal. With that said my RPR is shooting very consistently around .5 " at 100. Like I said above, the first few groups go to about .8 then settle down to around .5
Click to expand...

That’s great! Good shooting!
FlaShooterG said:
I have a RPR Gen II 6.5 with a Timney two stage. The break is really nice.
Click to expand...

Best money I’ve spent on my ruger was that timney flat 2-stage. Factory trigger had some nastyness to it that I couldn’t adjust out of it
 
Got my 6mm creedmoor back today with new barrell can't wait to see how it does as I said before ruger warranty c/s was fast and very nice people to deal with.
 
TacticalDillhole said:
The PSR has a quick disconnect mount, swivel and cant.
Click to expand...

Looks like they are both available without a mount or QD and both have swivel and cant.

http://www.operationparts.com/psr-atlas-bipod-no-clamp-for-bt19-adm-170-s-arms-17s-tramp-lt171/

http://www.operationparts.com/atlas-bipod-no-clamp-for-bt19-adm-170-s-arms-17s-tramp-lt171/

This post did help a me little: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/atlas-bt10-vs-atlas-psr-bipod.6687704/

However, I'm still undecided.
 
I sold off my aac-sd .308 and bought a RPR 6.5 gen 2 for $997 shipped. I couldn’t pass up at that price. I sure hope the factory barrel shoots good before I have to replace it. Now I am looking for a scope. I might go back to the tough as a cinderblock SWFA 3X15. I don’t shoot competitions, but I am looking to go out to the BLM land and shoot 1000 yards or better.
 
Bender said:
I sold off my aac-sd .308 and bought a RPR 6.5 gen 2 for $997 shipped. I couldn’t pass up at that price. I sure hope the factory barrel shoots good before I have to replace it. Now I am looking for a scope. I might go back to the tough as a cinderblock SWFA 3X15. I don’t shoot competitions, but I am looking to go out to the BLM land and shoot 1000 yards or better.
Click to expand...

on my 6.5, it took about 300 rounds before it started getting consistent. take a close look at it before shooting, some come kind of cattywompus from the factory and may be worthwhile taking the barrel off and remounting it. then just run the bolt a lot and it will come into its own.
 
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TacticalDillhole said:
on my 6.5, it took about 300 rounds before it started getting consistent. take a close look at it before shooting, some come kind of cattywompus from the factory and may be worthwhile taking the barrel off and remounting it. then just run the bolt a lot and it will come into its own.
Click to expand...
I have never broken in a barrel. But it seems from my light research that this Ruger platform would benefit from it? Has anybody tried David tubs final finish on a few rounds to see if it will help break it in quicker? I would hate to shoot 300 rounds of Barrel life just to get it to settle in.
 
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Bender said:
I have never broken in a barrel. But it seems from my white research that this Ruger platform would benefit from it? Has anybody tried David tubs final finish on a few rounds to see if it will help break it in quicker? I would hate to shoot 300 rounds of Barrel life just to get it to settle in.
Click to expand...

when i say settle, i mean get really consistent. it was a sub MOA rifle from the first shot. it just came into itsown around 300, either that or i got more comfortable shooting it. barrel break in has been beat to death, i dont believe it makes a substantial enough difference to go through all that work. on a factory mass produced barrel i can see it having some small fringe benefit, but a barrel from a custom shop, no way.
 
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