Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

[Xandrosi]

Lots of folks here have talked about polishing the RPR bolt to get rid of the zipper like feel/sound many Rugers exhibit when running the bolt. Can someone who has successfully accomplished this please post a picture clearly showing what areas, on rifle and/or bolt, were polished to make the bolt run smoother? Thanks!

Also interested in if there's some light polishing that will smooth this out? On all of my guns, I've used a Dremil with Mother's Polish to smooth the action. Alternately, found this YouTube that should certainly work to marry the surfaces. Not sure I'd actually close the bolt as this would wear the lugs. Running it back and forth should work though. .

 

[PhOnEpHrEaK]

Thanks for sharing that picture. Clearly doable.

It may just be my 20 rounder; but it seems like that OAL is shorter than the 10s.

 

[Steelhead]

For smoothing up the bolt, I just used some very fine grit wet sandpaper. It did a really good job. My action is very smooth now. I didn't touch the inside of the action.

Regarding the JB bore paste video...I would have removed the trigger and cleaned out the action a lot more than what that guy did. Not sure I would want JB bore paste getting down into my trigger.

 

[Xandrosi]

For smoothing up the bolt, I just used some very fine grit wet sandpaper. It did a really good job. My action is very smooth now. I didn't touch the inside of the action.

Regarding the JB bore paste video...I would have removed the trigger and cleaned out the action a lot more than what that guy did. Not sure I would want JB bore paste getting down into my trigger.

As I watched that video the first time, I was also thinking about the abrasive mess inside the receiver, particularly the lug area and trigger.

Looking at the video, the machining lines inside the receiver seem to be what's causing the contact that makes that zipping sound. Just looked at my new bolt and it's smooth. I found it interesting that literally after running my bolt back and forth only 10 times, I had immediate wear on only the front edged corners and nothing at all on the side of the bolt. Clearly, this tells me where I have to be careful with lubrication. I'm guessing that these corners are also the only points contacting the machining lines.

 

[Dog]

Lots of folks here have talked about polishing the RPR bolt to get rid of the zipper like feel/sound many Rugers exhibit when running the bolt. Can someone who has successfully accomplished this please post a picture clearly showing what areas, on rifle and/or bolt, were polished to make the bolt run smoother? Thanks!

Don’t polish the bolt. I asked the same question on accurateshooter blog. All benchrest guys. “Scientists”. Lol. They told me to polish “clean up the bolt raceways, Not the bolt. Anywhere the bolt makes contact on the inside of the rifle in the upper receiver back to the stock. I knocked down all the high spots with fine grit wet sanding. Was worried it would hurt accuracy, but it did not, Worked fantastic. In combination with the heavier Anarchy outdoors bolt shroud, it is smooth and quiet. Also had my bolt fluted, But I don’t know if that played a role in removing the zipper. It may have helped. Also

 

[Dog]

I have a question for the rpr guys. Is Timney and Jard the only ones making triggers still for the rpr? I like the Timney, with the straight bow. But I still wish it was lighter. I know nothing about the jard, tho they do make an 8oz. I wish geissele or jewel would make something. I don’t understand why they don’t, They would sell a ton of them.

 

[Dog]

I have the Magpul PMAG5 7.62 AC [5rds.] mag that will allow longer cartridges than the ten rd. factory and allows sngle loading of even longer rounds.[/QUOTE American Rifle Company makes center fed, double stack metal mags that allow an oal of 2.97. I have 3/16 of an inch in front of my hornady eldm factory loads. Tons of room for handloads. They are also very very smooth and quite to load FYI. The problem is finding them in stock, they go fast

 

[Xandrosi]

Don’t polish the bolt. I asked the same question on accurateshooter blog. All benchrest guys. “Scientists”. Lol. They told me to polish “clean up the bolt raceways, Not the bolt. Anywhere the bolt makes contact on the inside of the rifle in the upper receiver back to the stock. I knocked down all the high spots with fine grit wet sanding. Was worried it would hurt accuracy, but it did not, Worked fantastic. In combination with the heavier Anarchy outdoors bolt shroud, it is smooth and quiet. Also had my bolt fluted, But I don’t know if that played a role in removing the zipper. It may have helped. Also

Thanks for sharing that. As an aside, that fluting looks great!

 

[Dog]

Thanks for sharing that. As an aside, that fluting looks great!

I actually think the fluting helps, because it removes the surface with the fine ridges that play a role in the zipper sound. I got the fluting done by ad arms. http://adarms.net/. 50 bucks and he did it in a timely manor. Hope all this helps solve your issues

 

[Xandrosi]

I have a question for the rpr guys. Is Timney and Jard the only ones making triggers still for the rpr? I like the Timney, with the straight bow. But I still wish it was lighter. I know nothing about the jard, tho they do make an 8oz. I wish geissele or jewel would make something. I don’t understand why they don’t, They would sell a ton of them.

Lighter than 1 lb pull?

 

[Dog]

Lighter than 1 lb pull?

The Timney is nice. Breaks about 1.2. Lbs. if I go lower, My gun does not function properly. There is a bit of overtravel I don’t care for. I am considering trying the hard 8oz. For a cleaner brake and no over travel?? I don’t know, there is not any reviews on the jard that I can find. Do we know of any other trigger manfactures for the rpr on the market?

 

[Sutherlandsd]

Have you tried removing the trigger spring and polishing the trigger surface, I was all about a Timney until I removed the spring and cleaned mine up.... mine breaks at 13oz. I don't see the Timney as much of an improvement.

Took literally 15 minutes also.

(they may have fixed the 3rd gen so that you cant do this... would need more research if your a 3rd gen user)

 

[Xandrosi]

Don’t polish the bolt. I asked the same question on accurateshooter blog. All benchrest guys. “Scientists”. Lol. They told me to polish “clean up the bolt raceways, Not the bolt. Anywhere the bolt makes contact on the inside of the rifle in the upper receiver back to the stock. I knocked down all the high spots with fine grit wet sanding. Was worried it would hurt accuracy, but it did not, Worked fantastic. In combination with the heavier Anarchy outdoors bolt shroud, it is smooth and quiet. Also had my bolt fluted, But I don’t know if that played a role in removing the zipper. It may have helped. Also

Looking inside that receiver, it's tight! I can see the raceways but can't see a way to get to them with even a popsicle stick. And I'd be concerned with screwing up the profile if I can't get something flat in there. So how did you do that wet sanding please?

 

[PhOnEpHrEaK]

Just put 2-3000 rounds through it. It’ll feel like butter by then.

 

[Xandrosi]

Just put 2-3000 rounds through it. It’ll feel like butter by then.

Buttering up my rifle is definitely not something I'm going to share with my wife. Looking forward to that journey.

 

[Dog]

Looking inside that receiver, it's tight! I can see the raceways but can't see a way to get to them with even a popsicle stick. And I'd be concerned with screwing up the profile if I can't get something flat in there. So how did you do that wet sanding please?

I used a 3/4 inch wooden dowel with sandpaper wrapped around it, And my finder with a small piece of sand paper.

 

[ezekeial]

Has anyone ever had the factory 308 RPR barrel cut down to 16 in? Have other longer barreled 308's , but looking at handier length suppressed 308 for local range 500 yds and in.

Thanks

 

[Dog]

I used a 3/4 inch wooden dowel with sandpaper wrapped around it, And my finder with a small piece of sand paper.

I meant finger**. With a small piece of fine grit sandpaper

 

[ChrisH56]

For everyone discussing polishing the bolt, I had mine Micro-Slicked and it was immediately smoother. I think the "zipper" sound comes from the bolt catch riding in the groove machined in the bolt. The groove is not very smooth from the factory and has circular swirls in it (at least on my Gen 1). Maybe polishing the groove in the bolt would help. Just my 2 cents......

 

[Xandrosi]

I meant finger**. With a small piece of fine grit sandpaper

That part makes sense. What I'm puzzled about is how to smooth the raceways? One appears to be a machined dovetail with a lot of obvious machining chatter marks. The only way I can think to get into the raceways is with a sacrificial bolt and abrasive paste. I've submitted some related questions to Ruger to get their take.

 

[Dog]

That part makes sense. What I'm puzzled about is how to smooth the raceways? One appears to be a machined dovetail with a lot of obvious machining chatter marks. The only way I can think to get into the raceways is with a sacrificial bolt and abrasive paste. I've submitted some related questions to Ruger to get their take.

You cannot get another bolt which is the part that stinks. They won’t give you one. You should be able to reach everything by your fingers, Or a dowel. And stay away from your lugs in your bolt, Or the part where the lugs make contact in the upper receiver.

 

[Xandrosi]

For everyone discussing polishing the bolt, I had mine Micro-Slicked and it was immediately smoother. I think the "zipper" sound comes from the bolt catch riding in the groove machined in the bolt. The groove is not very smooth from the factory and has circular swirls in it (at least on my Gen 1). Maybe polishing the groove in the bolt would help. Just my 2 cents......

Though not micro-slicking, I've looked at Brazen Firearms' TiN coating for parts of my CZ SP-01. As I understand it, it's critical to let the parts wear in before doing one of these coatings as it will prevent this normal break-in. If you're happy with the results, I'd appreciate the name of the company that did your work.

 

[Dog]

You cannot get another bolt which is the part that stinks. They won’t give you one. You should be able to reach everything by your fingers, Or a dowel. And stay away from your lugs in your bolt, Or the part where the lugs make contact in the upper receiver.

I wish somebody made an aftermarket bolt, I tried to bet a backup from Ruger, They refused in every way

 

[Dog]

Though not micro-slicking, I've looked at Brazen Firearms' TiN coating for parts of my CZ SP-01. As I understand it, it's critical to let the parts wear in before doing one of these coatings as it will prevent this normal break-in. If you're happy with the results, I'd appreciate the name of the company that did your work.

The company I sent you last night for fluting does microslicking as well. I had mine microslicked as well as fluted

 

[quickdraw]

Much ado about nothing. I over-lube my bolt with Rand CLP and just run it. By about 300 rounds it was smooth, steady and repeatable. The biggest problem I had was thinking that I didn't pickup a round when cycling the bolt because it was so smooth. I always did pick one up and I just learned to run the bolt and know that everything was good.

I'm starting on my 2nd RPR now in 6CM and other that needing to make sure to stay on the bolt handle to close the action all the way down everything is coming along fine...again. My 1st RPR in 6.5CM has over 3000 rounds through it and the action is still very nice.

I'm a local match director and see many different rifles and actions. I see all of the guys with problems trying to keep their rifles running smoothly through a stage or even needing to play little games like making sure that the 1st round will move and not get hung up at the beginning on a stage. I've always just inserted my mag into an open bolt action and started the stage. I've never had a hung up 1st round or 10th round for that matter. I don't see the RPR guys having problems unless they are mag related. This is a very reliable action, zipper and all.

I understand the feeling of needing to mod something. Great, change the trigger, buy a new bag, add a 2nd pic rail for the bipod to the bottom of the forearm, put a +2 sidesaddle on the rifle and just get out and shoot it more.

 

[trob_205]

You guys can get rid of the zipper sound and smooth it out by simply taking the edges of each side of the bolt catch raceway right on the bolt. I used a glass rod and to finish it up used some 600-1000 grit sandpaper and G96 oil. This also got rid of the friction that would Come around halfway through the cycle of the bolt. I personally would stay away from anything that altered in inside of the receiver but that’s just this one mans opinion.

 

[PhOnEpHrEaK]

Much ado about nothing. I over-lube my bolt with Rand CLP and just run it. By about 300 rounds it was smooth, steady and repeatable. The biggest problem I had was thinking that I didn't pickup a round when cycling the bolt because it was so smooth. I always did pick one up and I just learned to run the bolt and know that everything was good.

I'm starting on my 2nd RPR now in 6CM and other that needing to make sure to stay on the bolt handle to close the action all the way down everything is coming along fine...again. My 1st RPR in 6.5CM has over 3000 rounds through it and the action is still very nice.

I'm a local match director and see many different rifles and actions. I see all of the guys with problems trying to keep their rifles running smoothly through a stage or even needing to play little games like making sure that the 1st round will move and not get hung up at the beginning on a stage. I've always just inserted my mag into an open bolt action and started the stage. I've never had a hung up 1st round or 10th round for that matter. I don't see the RPR guys having problems unless they are mag related. This is a very reliable action, zipper and all.

I understand the feeling of needing to mod something. Great, change the trigger, buy a new bag, add a 2nd pic rail for the bipod to the bottom of the forearm, put a +2 sidesaddle on the rifle and just get out and shoot it more.

I agree just get out and shoot! I have about 5000 rounds through my two RPRs the only issue was my fault

 

[dauntedfuture]

After some difficulty getting the factory barrel off i was able to put on a new Brownells in 6 creedmoor along w a jp recoil eliminator This new 24” shoots quite well

I selected a “standard load” load: 107smk, 42 h4350, russian primers in new hornady brass seated to mag length

5 shot groups about 1” @ 200 w 10x SS scope

Very light brass prep or load development and im happy w what i have Under a bore scope the new barrel is quite nice looking wo ridges, rings or burrs

 

[ChrisH56]

Though not micro-slicking, I've looked at Brazen Firearms' TiN coating for parts of my CZ SP-01. As I understand it, it's critical to let the parts wear in before doing one of these coatings as it will prevent this normal break-in. If you're happy with the results, I'd appreciate the name of the company that did your work.

The company that did mine was

Zephyr Defense
75 Bank St. #16
Sparks, NV 89431
Here is a link to their web page.

http://zephyrdefense.com/

I actually contacted them through the Ruger Precision Rifle FaceBook page.

Hope this helps.

 

[LongRangeLefty]

After some difficulty getting the factory barrel off i was able to put on a new Brownells in 6 creedmoor along w a jp recoil eliminator This new 24” shoots quite well

I selected a “standard load” load: 107smk, 42 h4350, russian primers in new hornady brass seated to mag length

5 shot groups about 1” @ 200 w 10x SS scope

Very light brass prep or load development and im happy w what i have Under a bore scope the new barrel is quite nice looking wo ridges, rings or burrs

Glad you posted this. I was wondering how those shoot. Glad to see pretty damn well

 

[dauntedfuture]

The hardest part was getting old barrel off

 

[Mattrmvpd]

Late to the party but here is mine. Its .308 has some add ons and wears a Sightron S3 Tactical with new generation reticle.

I have a couple soare new barrels in .308 sitting and waiting.

 

[rookie7]

Just finished shooting an RPR in 308 today. Compared to my 6.5 I thought the recoil should have been a lot more. Kudos to Ruger I believe their design does a stellar job managing recoil. Very little muzzle jump and the recoil was straight back.

This was comparing 175 TMK loads to my 6.5 cm 140 loads.

 

[LongRangeLefty]

^ Nice. The 175 SMK did very well for me at 600. I really like the 190 at 1000

 

[joemusso]

who's fluting RPR bolts.

 

[spife7980]

who's fluting RPR bolts.

Pro precision rifles @Boltfluter

 

[LongRangeLefty]

who's fluting RPR bolts.

I think LRI is too

 

[Xandrosi]

While the Tipton Ultra Gun Vise is fine for cleaning anything that shoots and as a stable platform for leveling and installing a scope, it can't handle serious torque. Tried straightening out my new handguard and muzzle brake, but gave up quickly. With a well-anchored solid vise, this would be trivial. All I ended up doing was scratching the brake nut. Now trying to figure out where I have enough space to set up a proper workbench. Probably cheaper to have this done by a gunsmith who also has a torque wrench.

 

[Sutherlandsd]

On the Ruger barrels I have taken off they are on pretty tight... Not Savage tight but tight. They need to be in a solid vise and a solid action wrench, first time its off will probably need some heat from a heat gun and a breaker bar also. Most gunsmiths in my area would do this for about $20 and about 2minutes. If you were in TN I could be bribed with beer.

 

[Xandrosi]

Thanks for that kind offer. New Orleans is home.

 

[LongRangeLefty]

So I’ve got 2,940 rounds through the pipe now. I’ve always seen .5 MOA accuracy from my loads and this rifle. However they started to grow around 2,700 rounds, to some being .7 MOA. Not that bad but not quite what it was for so long now. Had a can of Wipeout that’s been around for a while and finally decided to use it. I let it sit in the bore for an hour before running patches through. Did that about 5 times till the patches were clean. Seeing mostly that my issue was copper. Now I’m back down to .4 - .5 MOA. Good stuff!

 

[Xandrosi]

Thanks for sharing. Looks like products like Wipeout, Break Free, J&B Bore Cleaning Compound, et al, are the way to go once copper fouling becomes an issue.

 

[Dog]

who's fluting RPR bolts.

Adarms.net 50 dollars to flute. Does fantastic job, quick turnaround

 

[Dog]

who's fluting RPR bolts.

 

[ViP]

Scope base cant: how much?

I have a Gen 3 RPR in 6.5 Creedmoor. I will be mounting an Athlon Ares ETR scope when they become available. The Ares ETR has 32 MILS of elevation adjustment. How much cant do I need in the scope mount considering the RPR base already has 20 MOA and I want to be able to shoot to a mile? Is a 10 MOA scope mount better than a zero MOA one? Does it matter? Thanks.

 

[EzGoingKev]

So I’ve got 2,940 rounds through the pipe now. I’ve always seen .5 MOA accuracy from my loads and this rifle. However they started to grow around 2,700 rounds, to some being .7 MOA. Not that bad but not quite what it was for so long now. Had a can of Wipeout that’s been around for a while and finally decided to use it. I let it sit in the bore for an hour before running patches through. Did that about 5 times till the patches were clean. Seeing mostly that my issue was copper. Now I’m back down to .4 - .5 MOA. Good stuff!

I have about 1500 round through my 6.5.

I shot about 150 rounds through it and cleaned the bore, including decoppering it. After that I have been cleaning the bore using Pro7, just removing the carbon. I do not always clean it after shooting it.

I cleaned the bore out, including decoppering it. My groups have opened up slightly and I can see them tightening back up as I put more rounds through it.

 

[LongRangeLefty]

Scope base cant: how much?

I have a Gen 3 RPR in 6.5 Creedmoor. I will be mounting an Athlon Ares ETR scope when they become available. The Ares ETR has 32 MILS of elevation adjustment. How much cant do I need in the scope mount considering the RPR base already has 20 MOA and I want to be able to shoot to a mile? Is a 10 MOA scope mount better than a zero MOA one? Does it matter? Thanks.

So you have about 108 MOA in available elevation. If it were me, and I planned on shooting at that distance somewhat often, I’d go with the 20 MOA base, 20 MOA mount, and probably a longer barrel to squeeze out as much velocity as possible

 

[LongRangeLefty]

^ Also, make sure you level the rifle and scope absolutely perfectly

 

[ViP]

Thanks

 

[anon]

According to JBM, the 142smk load that I shoot in 1000 yard High Power Prone matches needs 109 moa at 1800 yards, not to mention screaming along at .835 mach. That's slower than Saturday go home power in a 72 freighter.

That 108 moa in his scope is top to bottom, right, not center to edge?