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Ruger Precision Rimfire sub minute?

Jheikki

Private
Minuteman
Mar 15, 2020
96
22
Ishpeming, MI
I bought a RPRR about a month ago, did some ol school stuff like fire lap the barrel right out of the box whether it did anything or not no idea but I was shooting 2 1/2 - 3 “ groups at 100 yards was not impressed but I do know different ammo shoots differently.

all I read about was guys shooting 300 and even 500 yards with results to brag about I did notice they all had suppressors but didn’t click yet.

started a little testing by accident I found it shot better with the thread protector off found it weird! So I cut a 11 degree crown on the thread protector and opened the hole to match the diameter of the barrel. See attached picture

I also bedded the action did not need much but still bedded it.

my groups had dropped to 2” at 100 yards and still not happy, i was now dealing with the hated fliers! if you look at a ballistic chart loads with the least drop at 100 yards were already subsonic anything super sonic was not by a 100 yards, this will cause wobble and accuracy gone!

i chose CCI standard ammo 1080 FPS just about as close as you can get and stay subsonic, I started weighing my rounds and found in a batch of 100 I will have a difference in 1 gr so I started separating in .10 gr differences and my group dropped of 10 dropped to 3/4” except for two fliers which made it 1 1/2 “ group.

i have started separating at .05 gr differences and will post results later need a nice day, I have watched the wind carry bullets at 100 yards threw the scope

any feed back will be welcome
 

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1) Transonic shift has insignificant effect on accuracy with 22lr.
Not my words but those of Dr. McCoy at the Aberdeen Ballistics Lab.

2) Ammunition quality is what y'er fighting with.
Look closely at those cartridges before chambering.
Dents, dings, scratches, irregular drive bands, asymmetry
is the true cause of most strays.

3) Use a ballistic chronograph every time you punch paper.
Watch the mv differences and the shifts in vertical poi.

4) Use wind flags to time y'er squeeze.

5) Purchase better ammunition. Cheap ammo won't do the job.
Lack of quality control on the production line is why it's cheap.
 
1) Transonic shift has insignificant effect on accuracy with 22lr.
Not my words but those of Dr. McCoy at the Aberdeen Ballistics Lab.

2) Ammunition quality is what y'er fighting with.
Look closely at those cartridges before chambering.
Dents, dings, scratches, irregular drive bands, asymmetry
is the true cause of most strays.

3) Use a ballistic chronograph every time you punch paper.
Watch the mv differences and the shifts in vertical poi.

4) Use wind flags to time y'er squeeze.

5) Purchase better ammunition. Cheap ammo won't do the job.
Lack of quality control on the production line is why it's cheap.
 

interesting On note one because I have seen sideways bullet holes but not arguing just more to consider

once it’s not cold as hell I was dragging out the chrono but I was trying to find a method of quality before I pull the trigger

i agree with the rest thanks for the comments also trying to help those that are discouraged with RPRR results
 
Sideways or keyholing is a result of poorly made cartridges.
If the bullet is asymmetric, deformed in any way, it will pitch/yaw/spiral/tumble due to aerodynamics.
All due to cheap, crappy ammo.
 
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I bought an RPRR. And before @armorpl8chikn gets on to me, I bought it as an extra for our TSC Match.

There is always someone there who comes to watch and I want them to shoot! So I bought one, figuring it would be at least similarly accurate as my run of the mill Savage MK II. (as now @armorpl8chikn is going thru the roof!):ROFLMAO:

It is a dog!.. I even sent it back to Ruger.. they crowned it... it still a dog.....

Now, a fellow competitor bought one and it does really well. They are close to the same date of Manufacturer...

I am just going to rebarrel the SOB and hope that it works.

I am not impressed with this Ruger..... but it hasn't turned me off to the other Ruger products.
 
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J, if you see bullet material compressed down over the crimp
and on to the brass, expect very poor results.
My last order of CCI SV has that problem.
Throwing strays all over the place.
Absolute junk ammo.
 
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J, if you see bullet material compressed down over the crimp
and on to the brass, expect very poor results.
My last order of CCI SV has that problem.
Throwing strays all over the place.
Absolute junk ammo.
Thanks I have never really looked that close but I will! I reload so I went with what I knew
 
Yep, 3 different cartridges, id'd by looking.
No guessing involved.

If you want to understand why we get the results we do,
inspect those cartridges closely before using.
Look at them as if they were a handloaded cartridge you'd just completed.
Do that every time, it'll explain why those damn strays keep ruining targets.
Crappy ammo equals crappy results. :(
 
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I have been in the 22lr game for about two years. Our club has put on steel challenge type shoots and prone paper target matches. Working out my two KIDD 10/22's I found that ammo like SK-RM and Eley Club is where you begin to get sub MOA consistently. Augila Extra was very so so and Federal Gold Medal Target really wanted to shoot .4-.3 in at 50 yards but consistently threw several flyers every ten shot group. I have become a big fan of KIDD rifles, with good ammo mine like to group .4 inches at 50 yards.
 
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Yep, 3 different cartridges, id'd by looking.
No guessing involved.

If you want to understand why we get the results we do,
inspect those cartridges closely before using.
Look at them as if they were a handloaded cartridge you'd just completed.
Do that every time, it'll explain why those damn strays keep ruining targets.
Crappy ammo equals crappy results. :(
Well I ran out to the range and shot several groups all with inspected and weighed bullets same results best group at 100 yards 1 1/2” out to 3” just to satisfy my mind and it’s still winter up here I’m going to compare with and without a break but expect same results. This is really a tool for my other project which is a .223 at 600 to 1,000 yards but I have issues with poor groups.

any type of ammo you would suggest to try?
 
If you are looking for inexpensive try the SK line: Rifle Match, Pistol Match, Special Match or Biathlon Sport.
Next up would be RWS R50/R100, Lapua CenterX, then Midas+, Eley Match, Tenex.
The better the quality, the higher the cost per cartridge.

J, I'm a Florida boy. Snow is not my forte.
But, cold temps affect rimfire ammo. Does odd things to mv's.
Something about slowing the combustion reaction and pressure spike.
Creates vertical spread
 
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Let your barrel tell you.

You could test:
SK STD+
SK Match
SK Pistol Match
SK Long range Match

Lapua:
Center-X
Midas (Premium ammo)
Pistol King

Eley:
Match
Tenex (Premium ammo)


And there are more candidates.
But as a baseline, shoot at least 3 lots per ammo type before determining that it does not fit for your barrel.
 
Any of you guys played with barrel tuning? I’ve seen a couple things and I remember the Browning Boss which I think has gone with the wind.
tomorrow I am going to factor in a muzzle break, all expect out of that is different vibrations
 
How about headspace? How about that and weighing? I'm not a handloader (yet) and I have caught some loose projectiles while handling to measure. Groups are getting better. Now to shoot raw from the box and see if it's just my improvement or actually culling bad bits.
 
Barrel tuners compensate for a limited range of velocity spread.
Will not improve results from cartridges with visible defects.
 
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When you are in the 0.3" at 50 I could recommend a tuner.

But it is velocity dependent and I myself shoot in all weather and prefer not to meddle with it. Enough trouble with upkeeping accuracy without any additions.
 
Almost everything at 50 is good, it's the 200+ and the cheap ammo starts having flyers.
 
I messed around with a Savage mkii g for 6 months trying this and that. Bedded it.. worked on trigger.. never got the dam gun to shoot right.. if they had a prefit barrel I would have replaced it, instead I got a Tikka and have been happy since..
on a good day/lot cci sv is giving me a bit better than moa at 50yds doing 6x5’s.. at 100, I think I’d be happy with 2” groups from the cci.
With better ammo I was more like half moa.. just a couple thoughts..
First, do you want to fight with a gun that doesn’t shoot? Will it cost more to rebarrel? Bed? Etc...
Second, even with a good gun, the easiest (only) way to get it shooting is to find an ammo that it likes..
 
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I messed around with a Savage mkii g for 6 months trying this and that. Bedded it.. worked on trigger.. never got the dam gun to shoot right.. if they had a prefit barrel I would have replaced it, instead I got a Tikka and have been happy since..
on a good day/lot cci sv is giving me a bit better than moa at 50yds doing 6x5’s.. at 100, I think I’d be happy with 2” groups from the cci.
With better ammo I was more like half moa.. just a couple thoughts..
First, do you want to fight with a gun that doesn’t shoot? Will it cost more to rebarrel? Bed? Etc...
Second, even with a good gun, the easiest (only) way to get it shooting is to find an ammo that it likes..
Thanks, I ordered some SK long range match 22 ammo and see what it will do! From what have been gathering I’m doing a little bit better than average with cheap ammo which would make sense. If I get good results with good ammo the cheap stuff would be acceptable for practice and long range plinking
 
Not sure if this is going to help or not...RPRRs seem to want a 1k-2k rounds or so before they start settling in. I’ve seen that expressed on several forums and can state that it happened with mine for sure. A year later, my RPRR shoots much better than it did out of the box. YMMV.
 
I've got a few videos out but here's one of me making good hits on 4in steel plate and 6in IPSC Head target at 300yds.
My RPRR has a very inconsistent cold bore shot unlike most of my other guns.
Find the right ammo and it will probably work well for you...
 
Practical precision. Head shot on a fly at 50 yards. This is my RPRR with Eley Club and a bit of cross wind. Took my new t1x on this trip today also... that'll be a different thread.
 

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Not sure if this is going to help or not...RPRRs seem to want a 1k-2k rounds or so before they start settling in. I’ve seen that expressed on several forums and can state that it happened with mine for sure. A year later, my RPRR shoots much better than it did out of the box. YMMV.
Interesting, for the same reason I had fire lapped the barrel, maybe Ruger is using a harder steel and will take more time to break in. I have about 600 rounds threw it now, I’ll run another 400 threw today.
there is no reason this rifle can not preform and there is so many mixed reviews I would like to find a logical solution
 
I bought a RPRR about a month ago, did some ol school stuff like fire lap the barrel right out of the box whether it did anything or not no idea but I was shooting 2 1/2 - 3 “ groups at 100 yards was not impressed but I do know different ammo shoots differently.

all I read about was guys shooting 300 and even 500 yards with results to brag about I did notice they all had suppressors but didn’t click yet.

started a little testing by accident I found it shot better with the thread protector off found it weird! So I cut a 11 degree crown on the thread protector and opened the hole to match the diameter of the barrel. See attached picture

I also bedded the action did not need much but still bedded it.

my groups had dropped to 2” at 100 yards and still not happy, i was now dealing with the hated fliers! if you look at a ballistic chart loads with the least drop at 100 yards were already subsonic anything super sonic was not by a 100 yards, this will cause wobble and accuracy gone!

i chose CCI standard ammo 1080 FPS just about as close as you can get and stay subsonic, I started weighing my rounds and found in a batch of 100 I will have a difference in 1 gr so I started separating in .10 gr differences and my group dropped of 10 dropped to 3/4” except for two fliers which made it 1 1/2 “ group.

i have started separating at .05 gr differences and will post results later need a nice day, I have watched the wind carry bullets at 100 yards threw the scope

any feed back will be welcome
It is kind of strange but my RPRR appears to shoot better at distance than at 100yds...
I find the best ammo so far to be CCI STD Velocity & Federal GM Target.
If you want to see some of my RPRR videos just type my name in on google or pm me?

I think at the end of the day the RPRR comes in 2nd to the Tikka T1X though.
 
Depending on how my 457 with IBI barrel ends up shooting I may get the IBI barrel for my Ruger PR.
 
How many of you folks far Northern as like in winter conditions yet? I have read several articles referring to 22 LR and accuracy going down with temperatures. Some won’t even shoot in the temps below 50 degrees mean while I’m out in 20 degree weather yet.
i did find cold rated ammo even Lapua Polar Biathalon ammo, anyone try this?
I was shooting out to 200 yards at a 4” gong hitting 8 out of 10 shots high winds and just killing Lock down time
 
How many of you folks far Northern as like in winter conditions yet? I have read several articles referring to 22 LR and accuracy going down with temperatures. Some won’t even shoot in the temps below 50 degrees mean while I’m out in 20 degree weather yet.
i did find cold rated ammo even Lapua Polar Biathalon ammo, anyone try this?
I was shooting out to 200 yards at a 4” gong hitting 8 out of 10 shots high winds and just killing Lock down time
Well here in Va we get both very cold and very hot.
I have shot in the 40s with 22lr with no issues...
I know extreme cold will affect your bullet but never shot 22lr below 40deg.
Good luck with your answers though.
 
The cold can effect two things. One is the ammo and how it burns as well as the laying of the wax coat in barrel. Second is its effect on the shooter. Sadly we all try to blame equipment but sometimes its us. Cold effects me for damn sure and I've lived in ND all my life. Work outdoors all year. Very used to cold. But as John Wayne ounce said " A man needs to know his limitations". I've learned my weaknesses but as being human I also tend to need a reminder now and then.

I guess what I'm saying is try it again when it's like 60-80 with no wind. Then you will know better. Good luck and enjoy the journey.
 
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Not sure if this is going to help or not...RPRRs seem to want a 1k-2k rounds or so before they start settling in. I’ve seen that expressed on several forums and can state that it happened with mine for sure. A year later, my RPRR shoots much better than it did out of the box. YMMV.
This is good to know, i have a RPRR waiting for me to pick up, guess i'll just start by putting rounds down range to break her in and not worry to much about accuracy right off the rip
 
Im up in wyoming and shoot in the cold since trigger time is good for the soul.

If you are looking for another 22LR ammo to try, look at Federal Auto Match. It comes in 325rd boxes and if you take the time to weigh and sort thru a box, I bet you'll be pleased with the results. I only do that for matches and when I do sort thru I only find maybe 1 or 2 that had more that a few tenths difference. Its cleaner than CCI and Aguila IMO since its made for semi-autos.
 
I'd second that, Federal AutoMatch in that 325 round box is pretty good for what it is....bulk ammo. I could say it's the best bulk ammo I have used.
 
Yeah that's a waste of time for the most part.
I agree 100%. In my mind there are too many other variables that would affect accuracy more than ammo weight. I'm not telling anyone not to weight but "for me" it would be a waste of "my" time.
 
My RPRR shoots well, best groups at 100yrds have been .65" and .63" , using SK Long Range and SK Rifle Match respectively. I dont notice much difference shooting when cold (I live in Nova Scotia). POI might be slightly different but I dont see any real difference in group size. I think it affects me (trigger finger gets cold) more than the ammo. I did notice small improvements initially as the barrel had more rounds through it, probably took 500-600 rnds. Early on I did bed the action using Elfsters foil tape method and that helped quite a bit. I've since added a second layer directly on the bedding blocks. I dont have a torque driver but that is my next area of focus, trying different torque on the two action screws. I have always had extraction issues with many different types of ammo that I used during the initial barrel break-in, CCI, Browning bulk, Winchester and so on. Extraction issues with SK are non-existent. I blame it mostly on the heavier lube other brands use. Even Eley ammo gave me issues. I recently tried for the first time a few mags of Federal Automatch 40gr and no extraction issues - more testing needed but it would be nice to have a dirt cheap ammo that functions when you just want to fool around. For serious shooting I've pretty well settled on the SK Rifle Match and SK Long Range Match at this point. My goal is to have a good shooter with ammo under $10/box, and the SK gives me that.
FYI - I use a Vortex Diamondback Tactical 4-16 and it seems pretty good.
 
I agree 100%. In my mind there are too many other variables that would affect accuracy more than ammo weight. I'm not telling anyone not to weight but "for me" it would be a waste of "my" time.
I only weigh enough for the 50rd matches and to make sure I don't have any wild outliers. Takes away one of my excuses for missing I guess. other than that I just shoot them right out of the box and usually get some funny looks from guys sitting next to me pulling a round out of their 50rd box of Center-X.
 
My RPRR shoots well, best groups at 100yrds have been .65" and .63" , using SK Long Range and SK Rifle Match respectively. I dont notice much difference shooting when cold (I live in Nova Scotia). POI might be slightly different but I dont see any real difference in group size. I think it affects me (trigger finger gets cold) more than the ammo. I did notice small improvements initially as the barrel had more rounds through it, probably took 500-600 rnds. Early on I did bed the action using Elfsters foil tape method and that helped quite a bit. I've since added a second layer directly on the bedding blocks. I dont have a torque driver but that is my next area of focus, trying different torque on the two action screws. I have always had extraction issues with many different types of ammo that I used during the initial barrel break-in, CCI, Browning bulk, Winchester and so on. Extraction issues with SK are non-existent. I blame it mostly on the heavier lube other brands use. Even Eley ammo gave me issues. I recently tried for the first time a few mags of Federal Automatch 40gr and no extraction issues - more testing needed but it would be nice to have a dirt cheap ammo that functions when you just want to fool around. For serious shooting I've pretty well settled on the SK Rifle Match and SK Long Range Match at this point. My goal is to have a good shooter with ammo under $10/box, and the SK gives me that.
FYI - I use a Vortex Diamondback Tactical 4-16 and it seems pretty good.
Very nice groups I have done all of the above including action torquing not much improvement tomorrow I receive my SK order can’t wait! I have kept track of what kind and amount of rounds gone threw the barrel. I am really hoping some good Nordic ammo will do the trick!
 
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How many of you folks far Northern as like in winter conditions yet? I have read several articles referring to 22 LR and accuracy going down with temperatures. Some won’t even shoot in the temps below 50 degrees mean while I’m out in 20 degree weather yet.
i did find cold rated ammo even Lapua Polar Biathalon ammo, anyone try this?
I was shooting out to 200 yards at a 4” gong hitting 8 out of 10 shots high winds and just killing Lock down time
I'm in MN. Anything lower than ~30°F and ammo consistency goes out the window. Laser shooting Annies and Vudoo's can turn into shotguns. Biathlon ammo helps mitigate this by running less viscous lube and less temp sensitive powders/higher velocities to compensate.

Can't wait for warm (>50°F) weather to see what my B14R can really do. Testing in 30°F weather is pointless as you can't tell what's ammo and what's rifle.
 
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Very nice! What size groups are you getting at 100? I have done all of the above including action torquing not much improvement tomorrow I receive my SK order can’t wait! I have kept track of what kind and amount of rounds gone threw the barrel. I am really hoping some good Nordic ammo will do the trick!
The groups I mentioned above were my best at 100yrds. On a calm day it can maintain 1" or slightly less at 100yrds when I do my part and my eyes are working well (I'm a bit old with not great eyes)
 
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Very nice! What size groups are you getting at 100? I have done all of the above including action torquing not much improvement tomorrow I receive my SK order can’t wait! I have kept track of what kind and amount of rounds gone threw the barrel. I am really hoping some good Nordic ammo will do the trick!
Not nordic anymore. SK and Lapua are now both manufactured at Germany site. Finland site was stopped, at least for rimfire cartridges. I heard it ruined the quality for few years back then but in general it is back there now.

For relative fast lot testing do a 5 warmup shots + 5x5 with each lot. The more shots the better data you get but realize when you are getting tired.

Measure the background group also unless you have problems with parallax at testing distance. It will tell quite much.

If possible use some eletronic measuring app like TartgetScan, BallisticX or Range Buddy.

Take a scientific approach, just telling the best lot by gut feeling is deceptive.
 
Not nordic anymore. SK and Lapua are now both manufactured at Germany site. Finland site was stopped, at least for rimfire cartridges. I heard it ruined the quality for few years back then but in general it is back there now.

For relative fast lot testing do a 5 warmup shots + 5x5 with each lot. The more shots the better data you get but realize when you are getting tired.

Measure the background group also unless you have problems with parallax at testing distance. It will tell quite much.

If possible use some eletronic measuring app like TartgetScan, BallisticX or Range Buddy.

Take a scientific approach, just telling the best lot by gut feeling is deceptive.
Great info! I have downloaded BallisticX and will Talley results in action torque and ammo
 
Great info! I have downloaded BallisticX and will Talley results in action torque and ammo
Good idea. Test and try to find a good torque and stick with it.
After you have chosen the lot you can test torque further.
 

Here's the best 50yd 6x5 I have gotten so far. Was
shot on my bone stock- non bedded- unclean (aka nicely seasoned) - at least 1k rounds fired rprr. Diamondback tac 6-24 in utg rings on top. Supported prone. I think the average is 0.34 inches or 0.64moa. Eley club ammo straight from the box.
 
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Here's the best 50yd 6x5 I have gotten so far. Was
shot on my bone stock- non bedded- unclean (aka nicely seasoned) - at least 1k rounds fired rprr. Diamondback tac 6-24 in utg rings on top. Supported prone. I think the average is 0.34 inches or 0.64moa. Eley club ammo straight from the box.
That's a solid performer, probably the best rprr groups I've seen posted so far.
My RPRR will shoot but definitely has a bedding issue or something as cold bore shots are absolutely inconsistent, like a lot...
Yet. as seen on here, I routinely hit targets well past 200yds with it, and a good wind call.