Savage Build Help.....

[sierracharlie338]

I have a Savage 111 in 300 WM that I am wanting to build on. This is my first savage build (I have done a few 700 builds) My question is about the barrel nut/barrel attachment to action.

It currently has a sporter style barrel that will be replaced with a #7 contour. What if anything will I have to replace between the barrel and action?

The best I can tell, it is a standard shank barrel nut. The large shank nut says its typically used for RUM, WSM and so on, will I need to change to a large shank for the heavier barrel?

Any help is appreciated!

 

[shane204]

You should have the small shank barrel and can't change to the large shank. You can reuse the factory barrel nut on your new barrel but I suggest get a new one. You will also wanna get a new recoil lug. That way your new barrel will sit flat against your action. I just got done building a savage and I got everything from Jim at northland shooters supply. Very nice guy to deal and will answer any questions you have

 

[sierracharlie338]

So the small shank will fit the #7 contour?

 

[shane204]

When you order your barrel they should ask you if it is a small or large shank. I believe every caliber up to 300 wm is small shank. If you are changing calibers you will need to change your bolt face also

 

[sierracharlie338]

Thanks for the advice.

Anyone else have anything different or second the above?

 

[USMARINE1108]

The above is true most of the time, but you need to make sure as there are large shanks on some modles with "smaller" calibers (223 for instance).

ETA: To be clear, most 223 Savage barrels are small shank, but Savage also makes them in Large shank.

 

[BoilerUP]

Your Savage 111 is a standard/small shank long action.

Folks have built up to 338 Edges on standard shank actions without issues. Original factory WSMs were on standard shank actions, and though they were later replaced with large shank actions, Savage never recalled standard shank WSMs so safety isn't compromised.

Get a barrel nut wrench, notch hardwood blocks, put wrench on barrel nut, put notched blocks around barrel, tighten blocks down in shop vise, whack the nut wrench with a dead blow or hand sledge, then unscrew action from barrel.

Remove barrel nut from old barrel, screw onto old barrel, put nut wrench on barrel nut, secure barrel back in shop vise with wood blocks, place recoil lug (I'd recommend a stainless aftermarket lug) over shank, place go-gage into barrel, screw action onto barrel until it stops. Once it stops, hand-tighten barrel nut then place wrench on barrel nut, give one mild whack on wrench with same hammer.

Remove go-gauge, place 1 piece of Scotch brand tape on the bottom, place in barrel, and if bolt won't close your headspace is good.

Easy-peasy.

 

[sierracharlie338]

Cool thanks fellas

 

[Danley]

Just in front of the nut, is there a noticable step down (not normal barrel taper)? If so, yours is a large shank.

 

[JWV]

I have a factory savage take off barrel in a standard shank. No issues. Go to Sharpshootersupply.com and look at the technical data page for info about savages.