Rifle Scopes Scope caps touching barrel...
- Thread starter johnsta
- Start date
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
Yes it is bad.
Yes it is bad.
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bhart89</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Can you cut the butler creek cap to releive it and show some sunlight through? </div></div>
How so, I am kind of confused....
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bhart89</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Can you cut the butler creek cap to releive it and show some sunlight through? </div></div>
How so, I am kind of confused....
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
Take a razor blade and shave the bottom of the scope cap where it is touching the barrel. A fraction of an inch is all you need between the scope cap and the barrel, just enought to see daylight between the two.
Take a razor blade and shave the bottom of the scope cap where it is touching the barrel. A fraction of an inch is all you need between the scope cap and the barrel, just enought to see daylight between the two.
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
Gonna have to get the next height up in rings or waste time money and possibly fuck up the scope.
Gonna have to get the next height up in rings or waste time money and possibly fuck up the scope.
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
Consider a new method to protect your objective and eyepiece. I'm not sure how critical they are in your system, I've found I take off my rear cap anyways to adjust the eyepiece and when I open the 50mm cap, I just leave it open for the day. I'm now probably gonna switch to a bikini style cap. If you're nice and tight to the barrel and not hitting it as long as you don't have caps on, it might be worth it to switch how you're protecting the objective.
Consider a new method to protect your objective and eyepiece. I'm not sure how critical they are in your system, I've found I take off my rear cap anyways to adjust the eyepiece and when I open the 50mm cap, I just leave it open for the day. I'm now probably gonna switch to a bikini style cap. If you're nice and tight to the barrel and not hitting it as long as you don't have caps on, it might be worth it to switch how you're protecting the objective.
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
I have seen the future weapons video of the Barrett bmg barrel flexing and was wondering if you will have the same barrel harmonics with a bolt action. Could the barrel flex and make contact with the scope even if there is a slight air gap?
I have seen the future weapons video of the Barrett bmg barrel flexing and was wondering if you will have the same barrel harmonics with a bolt action. Could the barrel flex and make contact with the scope even if there is a slight air gap?
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shooterone</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have seen the future weapons video of the Barrett bmg barrel flexing and was wondering if you will have the same barrel harmonics with a bolt action. Could the barrel flex and make contact with the scope even if there is a slight air gap? </div></div>
Fwiw, i had a gap about the width of two sheets of paper btwn the scope n barrel. Mtu contour 300wm and a nf 5-22x50. I had contact marks on the bottom of the objective bell and the top of the barrel.
So, yes.
This was in a aics chassis with an FTE brake.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shooterone</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have seen the future weapons video of the Barrett bmg barrel flexing and was wondering if you will have the same barrel harmonics with a bolt action. Could the barrel flex and make contact with the scope even if there is a slight air gap? </div></div>
Fwiw, i had a gap about the width of two sheets of paper btwn the scope n barrel. Mtu contour 300wm and a nf 5-22x50. I had contact marks on the bottom of the objective bell and the top of the barrel.
So, yes.
This was in a aics chassis with an FTE brake.
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shooterone</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have seen the future weapons video of the Barrett bmg barrel flexing and was wondering if you will have the same barrel harmonics with a bolt action. Could the barrel flex and make contact with the scope even if there is a slight air gap? </div></div>
I know your question is about the barrel, but in terms of making contact, remember the scope is going to flex also.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shooterone</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have seen the future weapons video of the Barrett bmg barrel flexing and was wondering if you will have the same barrel harmonics with a bolt action. Could the barrel flex and make contact with the scope even if there is a slight air gap? </div></div>
I know your question is about the barrel, but in terms of making contact, remember the scope is going to flex also.
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: johnsta</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My butler creek caps are wedged between my barrel and the scope. Is it bad if they touch? Seekins Low rings, SSHD 5-20, M24/40 contour barrel.
Thanks. </div></div>
As <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">"Bedlam"</span></span> stated but did not explain why - <span style="font-style: italic">"Yes"</span>, your Butler Creeks' wedged between your barrel and scope are bad. Anything that touches the barrel and recoil lug changes the harmonics of the barrel and can adversely affect the the rifle's accuracy, hence the practice of <span style="font-style: italic">"free-floating"</span> the barrel. Ideally, for best accuracy nothing forward of the recoil lug should contact the barrel at all.
As <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">"Smrkovsky"</span></span> suggested you can shave the bottom of the BC cap above the barrel where the contact occurs using a razor. Using a Dremel tool can be much faster than using a razor, but a much "cleaner" job can be accomplished by using a fine abrasive Dremel bit at slower speed, then finishing-up with 600 Wet & Dry paper. I knew that I'd have to shave the bottom of my BCs' to get the clearance I wanted for my setup (PMII 5-25X56mm w/USO ARD in Leupold Mark 4 Highs (1.06") on Tac Ops 40 MOA base over Tac Ops Heavy Contour barrel).
As far as how much clearance you "need" that is debateable. I like about .125" (1/8") clearance, but a bit less will work. This should allow the "lid" of the BC to swing open without contacting the barrel (you won't be firing the rifle while you're opening the BC so the harmonics obviously aren't affected here but it's nice to be able to open the BC without the lid hitting the barrel). If you can achieve adequate clearance without replacing the rings go for it. The BC's bottom front is completely flat and has perfect clearance, but I shaved the bottom of the BC on my X-Ray 51 <span style="font-style: italic">a lot</span>.
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">BC and PMII 5-25X56mm w/USO ARD in Mark 4 Highs (1.06" to ring center) on Tac Ops 40 MOA base over Tac Ops Heavy Contour:</span></span>
I don't know how you selected the Seekins "Low" Rings, but this is why people need to learn how to measure ring height required before they purchase rings instead of relying on other shooters suggestions (unless they have the <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">exact</span></span> same equipment setup), or a Ring Height Guide. It's also why it's really important to reference specific rings (which will tell you their specific height measured from what point to what point) instead of blindly lumping all rings into <span style="font-style: italic">"Low"</span>, <span style="font-style: italic">Medium"</span>, <span style="font-style: italic">"High"</span>, or <span style="font-style: italic">"Extra High"</span>. Not all manufacturers measure rings from the same points-of-reference such as from the top-of-the-base to the center-of-the-ring (some measure from the <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">top-of-the-base</span></span> to the <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">bottom-of-the-hole</span></span>).
The manufacturer, as well as the amount of cant built into the base or Rail also affect the height of the base at the front (the critical measurement) and the rear - another reason to learn to measure your required ring height based on your rifle, scope, and base or rail instead of relying on what others shooters' are using. Measuring required ring height, correctly mounting a scope, and correct diopter adjustment are all things that every scope user should be capable of doing.
Keith
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: johnsta</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My butler creek caps are wedged between my barrel and the scope. Is it bad if they touch? Seekins Low rings, SSHD 5-20, M24/40 contour barrel.
Thanks. </div></div>
As <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">"Bedlam"</span></span> stated but did not explain why - <span style="font-style: italic">"Yes"</span>, your Butler Creeks' wedged between your barrel and scope are bad. Anything that touches the barrel and recoil lug changes the harmonics of the barrel and can adversely affect the the rifle's accuracy, hence the practice of <span style="font-style: italic">"free-floating"</span> the barrel. Ideally, for best accuracy nothing forward of the recoil lug should contact the barrel at all.
As <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">"Smrkovsky"</span></span> suggested you can shave the bottom of the BC cap above the barrel where the contact occurs using a razor. Using a Dremel tool can be much faster than using a razor, but a much "cleaner" job can be accomplished by using a fine abrasive Dremel bit at slower speed, then finishing-up with 600 Wet & Dry paper. I knew that I'd have to shave the bottom of my BCs' to get the clearance I wanted for my setup (PMII 5-25X56mm w/USO ARD in Leupold Mark 4 Highs (1.06") on Tac Ops 40 MOA base over Tac Ops Heavy Contour barrel).
As far as how much clearance you "need" that is debateable. I like about .125" (1/8") clearance, but a bit less will work. This should allow the "lid" of the BC to swing open without contacting the barrel (you won't be firing the rifle while you're opening the BC so the harmonics obviously aren't affected here but it's nice to be able to open the BC without the lid hitting the barrel). If you can achieve adequate clearance without replacing the rings go for it. The BC's bottom front is completely flat and has perfect clearance, but I shaved the bottom of the BC on my X-Ray 51 <span style="font-style: italic">a lot</span>.
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">BC and PMII 5-25X56mm w/USO ARD in Mark 4 Highs (1.06" to ring center) on Tac Ops 40 MOA base over Tac Ops Heavy Contour:</span></span>
I don't know how you selected the Seekins "Low" Rings, but this is why people need to learn how to measure ring height required before they purchase rings instead of relying on other shooters suggestions (unless they have the <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">exact</span></span> same equipment setup), or a Ring Height Guide. It's also why it's really important to reference specific rings (which will tell you their specific height measured from what point to what point) instead of blindly lumping all rings into <span style="font-style: italic">"Low"</span>, <span style="font-style: italic">Medium"</span>, <span style="font-style: italic">"High"</span>, or <span style="font-style: italic">"Extra High"</span>. Not all manufacturers measure rings from the same points-of-reference such as from the top-of-the-base to the center-of-the-ring (some measure from the <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">top-of-the-base</span></span> to the <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">bottom-of-the-hole</span></span>).
The manufacturer, as well as the amount of cant built into the base or Rail also affect the height of the base at the front (the critical measurement) and the rear - another reason to learn to measure your required ring height based on your rifle, scope, and base or rail instead of relying on what others shooters' are using. Measuring required ring height, correctly mounting a scope, and correct diopter adjustment are all things that every scope user should be capable of doing.
Keith
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
Just sand the bottom of the cap until it doesn't touch anymore. If you can get your scope mounted that low without touching, that is an ideal situation.
Donnie
Just sand the bottom of the cap until it doesn't touch anymore. If you can get your scope mounted that low without touching, that is an ideal situation.
Donnie
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
Get higher rings.
Get higher rings.
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
I hate them fucking BC caps. I use the rubber bikini style. The don't freakin' break and they are not in my way all day.
I hate them fucking BC caps. I use the rubber bikini style. The don't freakin' break and they are not in my way all day.
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
You should consider trying a cover from theese guys -scopeshieldsalaska.com. I have it on two rifles and like it better than BC's. Protects the scope body along with lenses.
Removing it is just as fast as BC and eye piece adjustments are not hindered at all.
http://scopeshieldalaska.com/catalog/i15.html
You should consider trying a cover from theese guys -scopeshieldsalaska.com. I have it on two rifles and like it better than BC's. Protects the scope body along with lenses.
Removing it is just as fast as BC and eye piece adjustments are not hindered at all.
http://scopeshieldalaska.com/catalog/i15.html
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
Another factor on rings is the overall height of the rail. I followed all the info on figuring out the height, ordered all the pieces. Then replaced the rail with a Nightforce and so much for the calculations. I went ahead and ordered a set of lower rings, of course a SH member got a deal on a new ring set.
Another factor on rings is the overall height of the rail. I followed all the info on figuring out the height, ordered all the pieces. Then replaced the rail with a Nightforce and so much for the calculations. I went ahead and ordered a set of lower rings, of course a SH member got a deal on a new ring set.
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: darkshot</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You should consider trying a cover from theese guys -scopeshieldsalaska.com. I have it on two rifles and like it better than BC's. Protects the scope body along with lenses.
Removing it is just as fast as BC and eye piece adjustments are not hindered at all.
http://scopeshieldalaska.com/catalog/i15.html </div></div>
I have been considering something like this I have never really been a fan of the BC caps this seems like a better solution.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: darkshot</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You should consider trying a cover from theese guys -scopeshieldsalaska.com. I have it on two rifles and like it better than BC's. Protects the scope body along with lenses.
Removing it is just as fast as BC and eye piece adjustments are not hindered at all.
http://scopeshieldalaska.com/catalog/i15.html </div></div>
I have been considering something like this I have never really been a fan of the BC caps this seems like a better solution.
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
Get higher rings, modifying lens covers is not the way to go.
Get higher rings, modifying lens covers is not the way to go.
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
I use a similar method to darkshot. I have a scope coat on my NF, and it is simple on and off, protects my lenses, easy as pie.
I use a similar method to darkshot. I have a scope coat on my NF, and it is simple on and off, protects my lenses, easy as pie.
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
If you can modify the cap by shaving it, do that rather than remount the scope in taller rings that are going to run you $150. Worse case scenario (providing you don't shoot it with the cap touching), you ruin a POS $10 butler creek. Big loss, let me tell you.
If you can modify the cap by shaving it, do that rather than remount the scope in taller rings that are going to run you $150. Worse case scenario (providing you don't shoot it with the cap touching), you ruin a POS $10 butler creek. Big loss, let me tell you.
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
+1
I have a NF 56mm scope on a AX Chassis. The bell of the scope had approx 2mm clearance. It was hitting the barrel during firing. Everything on the rifle flexes. I went from 1.24" rings to 1.37" Its alot better now..
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jerseymike</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shooterone</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have seen the future weapons video of the Barrett bmg barrel flexing and was wondering if you will have the same barrel harmonics with a bolt action. Could the barrel flex and make contact with the scope even if there is a slight air gap? </div></div>
Fwiw, i had a gap about the width of two sheets of paper btwn the scope n barrel. Mtu contour 300wm and a nf 5-22x50. I had contact marks on the bottom of the objective bell and the top of the barrel.
So, yes.
This was in a aics chassis with an FTE brake. </div></div>
+1
I have a NF 56mm scope on a AX Chassis. The bell of the scope had approx 2mm clearance. It was hitting the barrel during firing. Everything on the rifle flexes. I went from 1.24" rings to 1.37" Its alot better now..
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jerseymike</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shooterone</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have seen the future weapons video of the Barrett bmg barrel flexing and was wondering if you will have the same barrel harmonics with a bolt action. Could the barrel flex and make contact with the scope even if there is a slight air gap? </div></div>
Fwiw, i had a gap about the width of two sheets of paper btwn the scope n barrel. Mtu contour 300wm and a nf 5-22x50. I had contact marks on the bottom of the objective bell and the top of the barrel.
So, yes.
This was in a aics chassis with an FTE brake. </div></div>
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
TAGGED
TAGGED
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
you are so correct that barrel flex will bite you in the ass. Dont take a chance on ruining your scope
you are so correct that barrel flex will bite you in the ass. Dont take a chance on ruining your scope
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
Personally I would go with the next higher rings.
BC caps take up less than 0.1" and removing them might or might not give you enough clearance so the barrel and scope won't slap together when the rifle flexes.
You can try a piece of "marking paper" between the barrel and scope to see whether they touch when you fire your rifle. I don't know the actual term for this paper, but it will be marked if it strongly contacts an object. Mechanics bluing might work too, or carbon paper on top of white paper.
Personally I would go with the next higher rings.
BC caps take up less than 0.1" and removing them might or might not give you enough clearance so the barrel and scope won't slap together when the rifle flexes.
You can try a piece of "marking paper" between the barrel and scope to see whether they touch when you fire your rifle. I don't know the actual term for this paper, but it will be marked if it strongly contacts an object. Mechanics bluing might work too, or carbon paper on top of white paper.
Re: Scope caps touching barrel...
No expert here, but I too would just go with the rubber covers, scope coat cover, or other brand cover that comes off the scope altogether while I shoot. That is of course if you're not in Condition where you need fast cover as you move from target to target in some kind of competition, then I would just take a hit, and get the next size up in rings.
No expert here, but I too would just go with the rubber covers, scope coat cover, or other brand cover that comes off the scope altogether while I shoot. That is of course if you're not in Condition where you need fast cover as you move from target to target in some kind of competition, then I would just take a hit, and get the next size up in rings.
