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Gunsmithing Scope level to a rifle

Reading over this resurrected thread got me thinking. And that's not always the best place for me.
It's obvious that the only thing that matters is that the reticle is level when the shot is taken. The rifle could be canted a few degrees and as long as it was zeroed in that position with a level scope and therefore reticle, all is well. Given this, would it pay to get behind the rifle and get set up to the most naturally repeatable position. If that means the rifle naturally cants to the left 2 degrees every time

Unless you want to have to deal with being off left or right when you dial up from a 100-yard zero to a 1,000-yard zero, the first thing you have to do is get your reticle pointed at the exact center of your bore. I eyeball it as best I can, then verify/correct with a "tall target test." With the target at 50 yards and with a perfectly vertical line on it (here is where your "weight on a string" comes in), you shoot the bottom of your vertical line until you are not hitting left or right of the line. Then you crank up 30 or 40 MOA and shoot at the same spot again, keeping your reticle exactly parallel to your plumb line. If your high impact is exactly vertical to your lower hole, you have got it. If not, loosen your ring screws, twist your tube a bit to correct and try again.

Once your have your reticle pointing at the center of your bore, hang your weight on a string up and, leaving your scope tightened down, you make your reticle line up perfectly with your plumb-bob string (by twisting the whole rifle), then tighten down your scope level, centering the bubble. (You are shooting with a level on your scope, I hope.)

Now, whenever you want to shoot, all you have to do is make sure your bubble is centered when you pull the trigger, and it won't matter whether you are shooting a 100 yards, 1,500 yards, or anywhere in between -- you will not be off left or right.

Unless the wind is blowing, of course. o_O

Anyway, there it is. Very simple, no worries about whether your action is exactly perpendicular to the bore, no tools to have to buy. Works absolutely perfectly.

Well, until you let something work loose. :ROFLMAO:
 
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Please spare us

Canting a leveled rifle is far more damaging than having a slight offset.

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Rifle cant with scope level explanation 2.005.jpg
 
Yes! I've been looking for that. (My search-fu is week).

Do you have that in a PDF you can attach? (Yes, my compooter-fu sucks too!).
 
Please spare us

Canting a leveled rifle is far more damaging than having a slight offset.

View attachment 7338910View attachment 7338911View attachment 7338912View attachment 7338913View attachment 7338914
Thanks for breaking this down Frank. It diagrams the point I was inadequately trying to get across with words and verifies what I had in my head. Yeah it’s a rabbit hole but understanding what is at play is the only way to avoid setting ones self up for errors. And forgive me for being late to the party.
 
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Please spare us

Canting a leveled rifle is far more damaging than having a slight offset.

That is true, and might have something to do with why I said, "You do have a level on your scope, right?" And why I said you make sure that bubble is perfectly centered every time before you pull the trigger. The whole purpose of the level is to keep you from canting your rifle.

But to even know where to set your level you have to establish your base, which is (when properly done)having your reticle pointing at the exact center of your bore. That is critical and you didn't even mention it. Apparently you think we should assume our actions and picatinnys were installed perfectly, and just bring that to level and call it good. But many are slightly off, or the rings do not exactly center the scope over the picatinny, and in either case you can level your scope to your picatinny or action until the cows come home and you're still going to be off left or right when you crank up, say, 30 moa or 8 mils.

It doesn't matter what else you do, if your reticle is not pointing at the exact center of your bore you are going to be off somewhere if you dial your elevation turret enough.

I explained a simple, dirt-cheap and 100% failsafe way to insure you will never be off left/right when you dial up. And what I get from you is a "please spare us?"

Please don't make me laugh. :giggle:
 
That is true, and might have something to do with why I said, "You do have a level on your scope, right?" And why I said you make sure that bubble is perfectly centered every time before you pull the trigger. The whole purpose of the level is to keep you from canting your rifle.

But to even know where to set your level you have to establish your base, which is (when properly done)having your reticle pointing at the exact center of your bore. That is critical and you didn't even mention it. Apparently you think we should assume our actions and picatinnys were installed perfectly, and just bring that to level and call it good. But many are slightly off, or the rings do not exactly center the scope over the picatinny, and in either case you can level your scope to your picatinny or action until the cows come home and you're still going to be off left or right when you crank up, say, 30 moa or 8 mils.

It doesn't matter what else you do, if your reticle is not pointing at the exact center of your bore you are going to be off somewhere if you dial your elevation turret enough.

I explained a simple, dirt-cheap and 100% failsafe way to insure you will never be off left/right when you dial up. And what I get from you is a "please spare us?"

Please don't make me laugh. :giggle:

It’s much more important the shooter be able to shoulder a rifle with reticle cross hairs level/plum without needing to look a level to make sure that happens.

If it can be achieved with the crosshairs centered with the bore, great. If not, center bore is disregarded.
 
Reticles are never pointed at the center of a barrel, that is why we zero, the wind age and elevation is always slightly offset.

plus the action, very few barrels are timed to any degree,

scope center of the barrel is not realistic
 
That is true, and might have something to do with why I said, "You do have a level on your scope, right?" And why I said you make sure that bubble is perfectly centered every time before you pull the trigger. The whole purpose of the level is to keep you from canting your rifle.

But to even know where to set your level you have to establish your base, which is (when properly done)having your reticle pointing at the exact center of your bore. That is critical and you didn't even mention it. Apparently you think we should assume our actions and picatinnys were installed perfectly, and just bring that to level and call it good. But many are slightly off, or the rings do not exactly center the scope over the picatinny, and in either case you can level your scope to your picatinny or action until the cows come home and you're still going to be off left or right when you crank up, say, 30 moa or 8 mils.

It doesn't matter what else you do, if your reticle is not pointing at the exact center of your bore you are going to be off somewhere if you dial your elevation turret enough.

I explained a simple, dirt-cheap and 100% failsafe way to insure you will never be off left/right when you dial up. And what I get from you is a "please spare us?"

Please don't make me laugh. :giggle:
Do you sell scope levels? Asking for a friend...

I prefer to not have to constantly be checking a scope level while shooting. You apparently didn’t bother to read what Frank posted or choose to ignore it for some reason. But, do go on. It’s entertaining.
 
Where does the can’t come from,

the level prevents nothing it is passive, it sits there. You have to move the rifle, and canting does not come from set up unless the reticle is pre-canted, the shooter pushes or pulls the rifle over. A shooter offset with their head rolled is usually a bigger problem. The level does not Fix it, just points it out. I can FIX it in 30 seconds. by using a better bipod and tightening it down so I can’t pull it over. Now I dont need a level. My bipod.fixes it, that is the comedy of these discussions.

once the rifle is set up and zeroed, the scope should be properly adjusted to the shooter. So if you are canting the rifle there has to be a reason, if you say, uneven ground, ok, however if your head is not rolled over, you should stay pretty straight, if you want to initially confirm level, ok, straighten it with the bubble, then lock it down. After the bipod is tight, why would you can’t ?

how does a level fix internal scope movement as you suggest, the scopes not tracking straight. The bubble cant measure inside to see the reticle orientation. If a reticle is canted from the factory a bauble can’t see that.

short answer is poor shooting technique, you push or pull the rifle over with the bolt. During a 5 shot string if you do this the group will wander or open up. However, if you check level by looking at it between every shot, you are not shooting a group you are shooting 5 one shot groups. So building a better position, tightening the bipod, and paying attention to your movement is what fixes it, not a level, that just points out a problem. It fixes nothing Proper rifle set up to the shooter is the most important factor, you push the rifle over, not some mysterious mechanical offset. That type of problem requires a real fix not a perceived one.

100% failsafe is a fallacy, what about scopes that curve as you dial up. If you have too much wind age dialed in the scope tracking can curve especially in cheap scopes. Many scopes have a curve at the top end of adjustment, that is one reason for a tracking test.

100% is not a figure we deal with, nothing is 100% and it’s a waste of time to try.

this is the secret experienced shooters know and everyone else bullshit, know what is important and why, versus focusing on noise
 
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Where does the can’t come from,

the level prevents nothing it is passive, it sits there. You have to move the rifle, and canting does not come from set up unless the reticle is pre-canted, the shooter pushes or pulls the rifle over. A shooter offset with their head rolled is usually a bigger problem. The level does not Fix it, just points it out. I can FIX it in 30 seconds. by using a better bipod and tightening it down so I can’t pull it over. Now I dont need a level. My bipod.fixes it, that is the comedy of these discussions.

once the rifle is set up and zeroed, the scope should be properly adjusted to the shooter. So if you are canting the rifle there has to be a reason, if you say, uneven ground, ok, however if your head is not rolled over, you should stay pretty straight, if you want to initially confirm level, ok, straighten it with the bubble, then lock it down. After the bipod is tight, why would you can’t ?

how does a level fix internal scope movement as you suggest, the scopes not tracking straight. The bubble cant measure inside to see the reticle orientation. If a reticle is canted from the factory a bauble can’t see that.

short answer is poor shooting technique, you push or pull the rifle over with the bolt. During a 5 shot string if you do this the group will wander or open up. However, if you check level by looking at it between every shot, you are not shooting a group you are shooting 5 one shot groups. So building a better position, tightening the bipod, and paying attention to your movement is what fixes it, not a level, that just points out a problem. It fixes nothing Proper rifle set up to the shooter is the most important factor, you push the rifle over, not some mysterious mechanical offset. That type of problem requires a real fix not a perceived one.

100% failsafe is a fallacy, what about scopes that curve as you dial up. If you have too much wind age dialed in the scope tracking can curve especially in cheap scopes. Many scopes have a curve at the top end of adjustment, that is one reason for a tracking test.

100% is not a figure we deal with, nothing is 100% and it’s a waste of time to try.

this is the secret experienced shooters know and everyone else bullshit, know what is important and why, versus focusing on noise

No one has a plumb-bob in their head. And that means everyone cants their rifle unless they have a reference (e. g., a rail that is known to be level, a target that is known to be plumb, or a scope level. Many very experienced shooters cant the hell out of their rifle and never have a clue. When I mount a level on their scope, then have them get into position and tell me when they think they have their rifle dead-level, and then flip the level out and show them how far off they are, they are shocked.

You "fix it" by adjusting your bipod? How do you know where to adjust to without a level on your scope? You don't, not to mention that most people quickly learn to get rid of the non-articulating bipod they saved $15 on and get an articulating one.

100%? Well, it does not take long to do my plumb-bob/tall target test and then you will know. With your way nearly everyone will find that as they crank up from 100 yards to 600, 800, etc., they have to add some windage correction even on a dead-calm day. You probably dismiss it as "spin-drift" or some nonsense. It isn't, it is simply that the reticle was never made to point at the exact center of the bore before they started sighting in.

If the reticle does not point at the exact center of the bore then the more you crank up, the more your POA and POI diverge. It is that simple, 100% of the time.

"Curve in your reticle?" Uh, I thought everyone here knew to buy quality scopes. There is no "curve" in any of my scopes' reticles. They track just fine.

When I crank up from a 100-yard zero to my 1000-yard zero on a dead-calm day, my POI does not shift right or left. And that is with 100% of my rifles. I've gotten pretty good at eyeballing the reticle to the center of the bore on a bolt rifle, but I'm still off a tiny bit at times. But whether doing my plumb-bob/tall target test takes me 10 minutes or 45 minutes, it is, for me, an absolute necessity on a LR (or mid-range (600 yds), for that matter). I do it once and that scope is good to go forever. Damned if I'm going to put up with a rig that requires windage dope as you crank up.

Do I sell scope levels? Because I said I don't leave home without one? No, and what a dumb question. As I said, if you don't have and use a properly adjusted scope level then you are canting your rifle, and frequently to a great extent.

I use the Flatline Ops "flip-out" level on all my scopes. Kind of spendy but worth it to me. And it sure doesn't take me long to glance up at it when I'm shooting to verify I am not canting.

No offense but I'm dumbstruck that a crowd that thinks they know all about shooting at long range would think they can do it well without using a scope level when they shoot at LR and without making sure their reticle points to the center of their bore before sighting in. Oh, well, carry on. Just try not to wear out your windage turrets. o_O
 
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We have 6 levels in our Head you rock, which are 3x more accurate than a bubble.

you should educate yourself,
Peripheral Vestibular System fig 5.png

Peripheral Vestibular System fig 4.png


You can look at it, I graduated Sniper School, no levels, no software, no spindrift or CE, Levels are a recent phenomenon, only about the last 15 years or so, what did long-range shooter do before then, miss everything

I teach classes, I see 100s of students a year, I know where a cant comes from and you are wrong. Students induce the canting, 1.) because the rifle is not correctly set up the brain will attempt to adjust it, so it moves the rifle subconsciously. I have it on video. 2.) when running the bolt with a loose bipod they pull the rifle over, some recognize this and will correct after every shot, other will miss it and continue to shoot until the cant becomes noticeable.

Not necessarily a cant video but it applies, demonstrating what I just said,

Watch him shoot and watch the rifle, a bubble fixes nothing and for competition guys on a clock, why would you want to take your eyes off the target after every shot and look at the level, it's stupid, it's called rifle set up



You plumb the scope once, then after that, it is on you.

You'd be surprise how many scopes have a curve to their tracking but in your tiny pond, you never see it. how many scopes have you actually tested yourself? I have videos on YT demonstrating the curve.

I also purposely canted the scope in this video and my impacts at 1000 yards are IDENTICAL which is weird because you said I can't shoot Long Range without a level



Unlike you, I have evidence and documentation to back up my experiences,

I think you know you spent too much money on a $6 level in a $150 wrapper, which has terrible accuracy, so now you want others to join you in losing their money for no good reason.

I can look at rifle and call it level, so can others, Thomas H here has the electronic level facing you and he repeatedly addresses the rifle and nails it, 4x better than the $6 bubble, you should educate yourself


Sniper School, instruction, competition, all without a level.
 
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No one has a plumb-bob in their head. And that means everyone cants their rifle unless they have a reference (e. g., a rail that is known to be level, a target that is known to be plumb, or a scope level. Many very experienced shooters cant the hell out of their rifle and never have a clue. When I mount a level on their scope, then have them get into position and tell me when they think they have their rifle dead-level, and then flip the level out and show them how far off they are, they are shocked.

You "fix it" by adjusting your bipod? How do you know where to adjust to without a level on your scope? You don't, not to mention that most people quickly learn to get rid of the non-articulating bipod they saved $15 on and get an articulating one.

100%? Well, it does not take long to do my plumb-bob/tall target test and then you will know. With your way nearly everyone will find that as they crank up from 100 yards to 600, 800, etc., they have to add some windage correction even on a dead-calm day. You probably dismiss it as "spin-drift" or some nonsense. It isn't, it is simply that the reticle was never made to point at the exact center of the bore before they started sighting in.

If the reticle does not point at the exact center of the bore then the more you crank up, the more your POA and POI diverge. It is that simple, 100% of the time.

"Curve in your reticle?" Uh, I thought everyone here knew to buy quality scopes. There is no "curve" in any of my scopes' reticles. They track just fine.

When I crank up from a 100-yard zero to my 1000-yard zero on a dead-calm day, my POI does not shift right or left. And that is with 100% of my rifles. I've gotten pretty good at eyeballing the reticle to the center of the bore on a bolt rifle, but I'm still off a tiny bit at times. But whether doing my plumb-bob/tall target test takes me 10 minutes or 45 minutes, it is, for me, an absolute necessity on a LR (or mid-range (600 yds), for that matter). I do it once and that scope is good to go forever. Damned if I'm going to put up with a rig that requires windage dope as you crank up.

Do I sell scope levels? Because I said I don't leave home without one? No, and what a dumb question. As I said, if you don't have and use a properly adjusted scope level then you are canting your rifle, and frequently to a great extent.

I use the Flatline Ops "flip-out" level on all my scopes. Kind of spendy but worth it to me. And it sure doesn't take me long to glance up at it when I'm shooting to verify I am not canting.

No offense but I'm dumbstruck that a crowd that thinks they know all about shooting at long range would think they can do it well without using a scope level when they shoot at LR and without making sure their reticle points to the center of their bore before sighting in. Oh, well, carry on. Just try not to wear out your windage turrets. o_O
A smart man once said, “You don’t know what you don’t know.”

Some will never know because they refuse to believe that they don’t know everything already.

But please, do go on. It gives Frank a chance to educate others that perhaps do want to learn.
 
Ain't got no bubble levels on my Palma rifle shooting 800 thru 1K, and this one's sights must be held plumb. With the adjustable stock, it's built to fit my anatomy eliminating any cant. I trust my internal levels to keep the sights plumb. Interestingly enough, the rear sight is slightly left of center over the bore and that .622" induced error at 1K is still negligible.
6mm rear Warner sight.jpg
 
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It's a product-driven problem

People who sell levels want to scare the inexperienced that they NEED a level in order to shoot LR. So they are offering a "fix", of course, this FIX has a very inflated price tag like Jewelry, we take a $6 level vial, drop it in an overpriced wrapper and then the marketing begins.

If you don't have it, you can't shoot straight, canting a problem, how do you know, the ground is uneven, you can't see the horizon, then to press their point they start talking about Flying via instruments, how in flying you need that artificial horizon or you'll crash, which is not the same as shooting.

We shot for 200+ years without a level, we educated ourselves back then on the mechanics of the body and the relationship between our vestibule system and shooting. We talk about keeping our heads straight vs rolling it over like people do when they shoot off to the side.

Then to make matter worse, they sell a group of levels, all of which they charge about the same as the rifle mounted versions. These levels are to mount the scope. They say the entire system MUST be perfect to the Nth degree so you need 4 levels, one for the barrel, Which is round and the OD is not squared to anything, they want a level on the scope base, on the scope turret, and then inside the raceway of the action. People with no experience do all this, after spending this money, only to come online and tell people with real-world experience how Everyone needs to do this in order to be accurate or precise at LR. Nothing could be further from the truth, it's marketing and fear.

A stack of cards under the scope, aligning the flat of the scope to the flat of the rail, that alone mounts the scope straight. I was actually at Leupold when they were checking a scope for a canted reticle, all they do is lay the scope on a table flat to flat, and compare it to a line. Straight yes or no, yes, okay move on. There is no high dollar fixture to test this, at least not one I have seen or has been pointed out to me, and I have toured a 1/2 dozen scope factories.

My natural body cant is about .8 degrees if I adjust my system with this understanding my body will alert me to an issue. Most new shooters who cant the rifle do so without ever knowing until it reaches a point of visibility. That is usually between 2 and 3 degrees, which is noticeable and significant, but very few correct the problem through rifle set up. Instead they want to "watch" a level during their shooting. They treat it like a second sight that needs aligning, or what most do, is check once, and as soon as they start shooting their groups ignore it and miss the fact every time they run the bolt, they pull the rifle over, as I demonstrated.

Just watch me shoot in the videos and Jeff shoot in the videos and look at the amount of movement, the constant corrections for canting. No use of a level can FIX that problem, it's a shooter problem not a product placement problem.

Sure, you can mount a level, if you do, it must be mounted on the scope tube so you can pair it to the reticle. Any other placement is failing to match the system correctly. Mounted in other locations you are leveling the rifle, not the reticle. Rifles can be set up offset to fit the shooter's body, at which point the scope can be rotated to adjust the reticle to gravity. With this type of fit, your body will not try pushing the rifle to one side or the other subconsciously because your comfort has increased.

We have lost of a lot of self-knowledge on these subjects because the easy answer is, buy a level and watch it, vs taking time to learn how to shoot properly without one. As I noted above, Levels on rifles are fairly new, we have a lot longer history effectively shooting without them, then with them.
 
I might be a little naive but...I always thought there were two types of 1000+ yard shooters....those that don't use a bubble level....and those that say they shoot 1000+ yards but spend their time online telling people why they can't shoot 1000+ yards without a bubble level.

I'm just too stupid to not know what I don't know. I've been ridiculed for claiming to have shot a 308 out past 800 yards....and told that 1000 yards is hard...and that a mile is reserved for only the elite shooters.

It's not rocket surgery....why we gotta dig down in the weeds...can't we just go shoot?
 
Shims, cards or feeler gauges placed under the flat of the erector housing will get you very close. After that, get behind the gun and check fall of gravity with a plumb line.
 
Barrel is round.

Stock is the interface between shooter and barrel.

Bullet only cares about gravity.

Get crosshairs in line with gravity.

Slight offset is a minor error unless you shoot your rifle horizontal like a gangbanger nine. Than just realize your windage is elevation, elevation is windage and you should line your X coordinate line up with gravity.

Tangential story.

Called up for Gulf I into Combat Casualty Replacement BN.

MOS didnt matter. All IRR callups were Infantry and we went to Pendleton - issued all new gear and put through ITS/SOI.

At the range zeroing our rifles I was shooting like shit.

We fired a rapid fire session in the prone with gas masks on.

In order to get a good sight picture I canted hard so the pistol grip was starboard.

When the scoring came up PMI was admonishing everyone to take their time, slow down, overcome the difficulty of the mask obscuring vision....to me "Target 25(?) Keep your mask on for the duration of the war". I had crushed the black.

Or maybe he just didnt like my looks.......
 
I got levels for sale, holla
lazypeopleslevel.com
 
I shoot straight, the bullets hit the bullseye. I cant the gun left, where do the bullets land? Cant right, where? Low, high, left, right, combination?
Maybe I should experiment? Shoot a good group and then cant on purpose to see the results? Or can someone just tell me the results?

Now I feel dumb because I put a level on top of my new scope to see if I was/am changing myself between shots.

After I put the level on the scope I found myself playing with the bipod legs trying to get the gun level after every shot, so I redneck/white trash/poor adjusted the mount with some tape and leveled the gun. I haven't shot again since then, But now that I adjusted the bipod I should check my reticle for being straight again.
 
There is no easiest solution to do it at home?

I use plumb to level bubble level mounted on scope. It’s second step.

Yes at home in a room you can hold the rifle up to your shoulder look down the scope and the bottom of the vertical reticle should not be distorted to the left or right. You can do this standing, sitting, prone.
 
My ex father in law was the chief engineer at Starrett in Athol. My ex wife lived there all her life before college.

They made great tools

I work that area sometimes.

The plant is still operating.

Tried to get a tour but they dont do tours.

They still display their WWII "E for Excellence" award in the lobby.

Any time I need a tool that they will produce Ill go Starrett.

Hope they can last against the cheap china tide.
 
I just did the impossible, first take, with a dog distracting me:

This is a super technical demonstration of how I level a rifle. I confirmed it for those watching with the Spuhr level, cause it's there.

No, you did have something to look at -- the level concrete floor you were on. Try doing that on a hillside in the mountains.

Plus, how much time did it take you to tighten down that bipod? I can glance at my bubble level in 1/10 of a second.

You get your bipod locked down and then move it an inch or more and you have to start all over again. If I have to move I just glance at my bubble for 1/10 of a second.

Anyway, go to to any serious F-Class shoot and count how many of the serious competitors don't have a level on their scope.

Hint -- NONE. And there is a good reason for that.
 
No, you did have something to look at -- the level concrete floor you were on. Try doing that on a hillside in the mountains.

Plus, how much time did it take you to tighten down that bipod? I can glance at my bubble level in 1/10 of a second.

You get your bipod locked down and then move it an inch or more and you have to start all over again. If I have to move I just glance at my bubble for 1/10 of a second.

Anyway, go to to any serious F-Class shoot and count how many of the serious competitors don't have a level on their scope.

Hint -- NONE. And there is a good reason for that.

Ummm.....what?

 
I work that area sometimes.

The plant is still operating.

Tried to get a tour but they dont do tours.

They still display their WWII "E for Excellence" award in the lobby.

Any time I need a tool that they will produce Ill go Starrett.

Hope they can last against the cheap china tide.
It is a shadow of what it used to be.

It provided many jobs for the people in that entire area. Not so much now as it is considerably smaller.

Same story in Lynn, MA and GE
 
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It is a shadow of what it used to be.

It provided many jobs for the people in that entire area. Not so much now as it is considerably smaller.

Same story in Lynn, MA and GE

Yep, you and I have discussed it before as people of the area, sad.
 
Ummm.....what?


Not to change the subject, but I see this guy has a rope tied to where a bipod should be. I have been thinking about doing something like this because my bipod feet do not always "stick" in the ground if the dirt is really loose, like the field I shoot in or on concrete. Is there a name for that? Anybody else doing it?
 
Not to change the subject, but I see this guy has a rope tied to where a bipod should be. I have been thinking about doing something like this because my bipod feet do not always "stick" in the ground if the dirt is really loose, like the field I shoot in or on concrete. Is there a name for that? Anybody else doing it?
And that is super impressive
 
Not to change the subject, but I see this guy has a rope tied to where a bipod should be. I have been thinking about doing something like this because my bipod feet do not always "stick" in the ground if the dirt is really loose, like the field I shoot in or on concrete. Is there a name for that? Anybody else doing it?

Where do you see a rope??
 
Not to change the subject, but I see this guy has a rope tied to where a bipod should be. I have been thinking about doing something like this because my bipod feet do not always "stick" in the ground if the dirt is really loose, like the field I shoot in or on concrete. Is there a name for that? Anybody else doing it?


He has a big ass, heavy bench rest style front rest.

The item he holds in his hands is a rod that he can use to adjust wind/elevation than lock it all down for the most solid of all shots.

No bipod, no rope.
 
IDK lowlight Colorado seems pretty flat to me, ESPECIALLY everything around Ouray.. ;)
 
F Class, LOL Hillsides,

I live in Colorado I know nothing about hillsides

F Class rifles have flat bottoms and they are put in $1000 rests, why would they not be level, there is nothing to can't. Manicured ranges, LOL

Hahahahahahahaha lame

"Manicured ranges?" Maybe somewhere, but I sure wouldn't count on the ranges being level. What you do have is target frames that are probably pretty plumb, but you can't see the plumb(?) edge of the frame once you zoom in.

But I guess a better question is, why wouldn't you put a level on a scope you plan on shooting LR with? The "time to look at it" argument is the lamest thing I have heard since Biden claimed he did not know his son was on the board of Burisma. :ROFLMAO: Setting up on uneven ground you will spend at least 20X as much time figuring out whether your rifle "looks level" than I do using my level. Serious shooters use levels for one reason -- they, like me, have seen matches lost because a shooter unknowingly canted his rifle slightly and put his shot just out of the X-ring.

Here's one of my levels. Once I'm in position, looking through the scope with my right eye, I don't have to move my head .001" to glance up at my level. Takes a small fraction of a second to glance at. When I am done shooting I flip my level back out of the way. Not terribly expensive in the grand scheme of things, weighs an ounce or two, and is vastly faster and more accurate to use than the "internal levels" we all have.

Sorry, but I gotta say, not putting a level on a scope you plan to use for LR shooting is just plain, old rock-dumb.

 
"Manicured ranges?" Maybe somewhere, but I sure wouldn't count on the ranges being level. What you do have is target frames that are probably pretty plumb, but you can't see the plumb(?) edge of the frame once you zoom in.

But I guess a better question is, why wouldn't you put a level on a scope you plan on shooting LR with? The "time to look at it" argument is the lamest thing I have heard since Biden claimed he did not know his son was on the board of Burisma. :ROFLMAO: Setting up on uneven ground you will spend at least 20X as much time figuring out whether your rifle "looks level" than I do using my level. Serious shooters use levels for one reason -- they, like me, have seen matches lost because a shooter unknowingly canted his rifle slightly and put his shot just out of the X-ring.

Here's one of my levels. Once I'm in position, looking through the scope with my right eye, I don't have to move my head .001" to glance up at my level. Takes a small fraction of a second to glance at. When I am done shooting I flip my level back out of the way. Not terribly expensive in the grand scheme of things, weighs an ounce or two, and is vastly faster and more accurate to use than the "internal levels" we all have.

Sorry, but I gotta say, not putting a level on a scope you plan to use for LR shooting is just plain, old rock-dumb.



Level on the scope makes "some" sense.

Thing is everyone asks about leveling rifle and scope in tandem - that makes less sense.
 
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Just stop digging a hole, youre telling me how long I will take, you dont have a clue,

you’ve been schooled, take notes and stop pretending you have a clue, you don’t

I don’t have to watch my level, I have far more experience than you, and see 100s of shooters doing it wrong. Even with levels on their rifle. I posted a video of Jeff shooting, he had a level, what good did it do during his course of fire.

I am done addressing you, stop pretending you know something more than marketing talking points
 
Hmmm, when did they start allowing "silencers" and wood "tables" in F-class?
3.4.1 Rifle Rests - (a) F-Class Open Rifle (F-O) - (2) The use of “tables i.e. a single flat solid surface extending under both front rest and rear bag is prohibited.

(a) Sound suppressors are not authorized for use in high power competition.

That "match lost due to shooting just outside the X" was most likely a bad wind call.
 
You’re setup makes me laugh too,

love the bag, lol

i can’t believe you think you have the horsepower to continue to engage in this debate, you are clearly unarmed

Oh man ruthless, that's going to leave a mark.........
 
Lots of good info here. I’ve been down both roads on rifle cant and leveling the reticle. I’m no stranger to shooting but fairly new to the LR game. I was OCD on making sure the reticle was in perfect alignment with the bore, level, and so on....spent hours on doing it to the point of perfection. In the end I did indeed have a set up where I could dial straight up or down, and it would track a plumb line top to bottom. But man let me tell you, I was fighting on every shot to make sure my scope level bubble was dead center since I leveled it to my reticle via plumb line. I was fighting my natural way of holding the rifle. I found it way more comfortable to do the alternative with natural hold and slight cant and plumb line to level up the reticle, then tighten down the scope. The .622” error or whatever is negligible at 1K yds.

But I do have one question that’s been in my head since reading this thread...how much error would a 20 MOA base cause if thrown into the equation. Would this type of base and say 1-2 degree Rifle cant make any difference in error at 1K yds? The scope would then be at a slight angle and not on a parallel plane with the rifle/bore. Please excuse my ignorance if this seems like a stupid question. Just curious.

JMD82
 
But I do have one question that’s been in my head since reading this thread...how much error would a 20 MOA base cause if thrown into the equation. Would this type of base and say 1-2 degree Rifle cant make any difference in error at 1K yds? The scope would then be at a slight angle and not on a parallel plane with the rifle/bore. Please excuse my ignorance if this seems like a stupid question. Just curious.

JMD82

Whether you use a sloped base or not has no effect upon the issue. You are still going to sight in at some fairly close distance, like 100 or 200 yards.

The problem comes when you then dial up to shoot at LR, like 1,000 yards, because of one very hard rule of physics -- if your reticle does not point at the center of your bore then with any amount you dial up (or hold over) your reticle's windage will be off. The bigger your scope-to-bore misalignment, the more your POI will be off from your POA. The more you dial up, the worse the error becomes.

The only way you can detect exactly how many MOA (or inches, or (feet ) you are off at, say, 1,000 yards is to shoot at that distance on a dead-calm day and measure the error on your target. But to do that you have to hold the rifle exactly the same way when shooting at 1,000 as you did when you sighted in at 100.

So let's assume Lowlight can somehow do what no other person on the planet can do, which is to hold his rifle exactly level every time. He can't, of course, but let's assume for a minute that he can. He is still going to have a windage error when he cranks up from 100 yards to a longer range because he did not bother to make his reticle point at the center of his bore before he started the sight-in process. He did even try to do that, because he did not understand the importance of doing that. Indeed, he scoffed at the whole necessity.

So he will end up like the hundreds of other people I see every year, who find that when they start to accumulate LR dope, it does not contain merely elevation dope, but also windage dope. That assumes, of course, that you can hold your rifle the same way every time. Most people cannot without a reference (level on scope, plumb object downrange, etc.), but if you do use a level (or other reference) it will become very clear to you very quickly. The drift left or right from scope-to-bore misalignment usually starts to show up by 300 yards. It is quite apparent by 500 yards.

However, people like Lowlight will not see it as much because their cants are all over the place. They are just as likely to correct their scope-to-bore misalignment by accidentally canting the opposite direction as they are to magnify it by canting the other way. To them windage at LR is all a confusing jumble of "spend-drift," "coriolis effect" and "wind, even on dead-calm days" such that they just don't worry about it. Their approach is, you just fire a round or two at the LR target, see where you hit and then correct for it. Voila! They hit the target and consider themselves LR shooting experts.

And that is a perfectly acceptable approach for games. They should not, however, ever use the word "sniper" because true snipers do not have the luxury of firing "sighter" rounds. They need to hit the target with the first shot.

And anyone trying to do that without both a scope mounted to point at the center of the bore and a level on their rifle is at an extreme handicap. Anyone who purposefully omits both is a fool.

Because you are not going to experience the "1-2 degree rifle cant" you asked about -- it is going to be more like 10-20 degrees, especially if you are on sloping ground with no reference to look at. And unless you got lucky and accidentally canted in the direction needed to offset your scope-to-bore misalignment, your dope is going to say things like, "500 yards: 8.5 moa up and 2.25 moa right." Keeping "dual dope" like that is certainly one way to do it -- but I thought we were concerned about "time," and having to adjust two turrets every time the distance changes instead of one doubles that.

I don't understand why you would spend "hours" getting your scope aligned with your bore. I told you how to do it in 15 minutes, 30 at most.

I understand completely that your rifle, when aligned with the bore and level does not "feel right." But the question is, do you want to "feel good" or do you want to shoot straight? The solution, if the hold does not "feel right," is not to employ a consistent cant and keep windage dope, it is to (a) get used to it, or (b) get a stock that is comfortable even when the rifle is held level.
 
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