I'm trying to get a Midas Tac mounted and having issue. I'm using a bubble on the Picatinny rail and bubble on top of scope. The reticle is still crooked when both bubbles are level(top of reticle is off center to the left). Now, I used the same levels and method on two different rifles with a xtr ii and forge scope last week. Both turned out perfect to my eye and seem perfectly aligned. All 3 scopes are using arc m10 rings. So, is this just a matter of straightening the reticle to where it looks correct to my eye even though the bubble is not level?
Gunsmithing Scope Mounting
- Thread starter GibsonL5
- Start date
I don't guess I do... Why would it work on the other 2 rifle setups, but not this one?
i've played around with a series of levels in differing locations and eventually they seem to get you pretty close but the technique i've found works best, most reliably and quickest is to hang a weighted string off the target stand.. I then set up the rifle, looking from above it to make it as square as possible to start....I then set myself behind the rifle as comfortably and as properly as possible so it feels natural and i have the natural point of aim that i will depend upon in the future. I then rotate and adjust the scope till everything lines up.
I do this at our 100 yard target stand as i both zero my rifle there and orient the scope reticle at the same time.
I will then adjust the scope or rail mounted bubble level to show dead center...this helps me reconfirm while shooting.
hope this helps
I do this at our 100 yard target stand as i both zero my rifle there and orient the scope reticle at the same time.
I will then adjust the scope or rail mounted bubble level to show dead center...this helps me reconfirm while shooting.
hope this helps
Some good reading here:
www.snipershide.com
Gunsmithing - Scope level to a rifle
I have a Precision Extended Cantilever mount (1 piece) and I'd like to install it on AR10 - DB10 but I have a problem. I can't mount a scope leveled to a rifle properly (without cant). Do you have solution for it? I have an Arisaka Optics Mount Tool but it won't works for me - surface on mount...
www.snipershide.com
I level the rifle in a rest (rings just loose enough to spin the scope).
Aim the rifle at the two-story home across the pond, align the vertical crosshair with the corner of the house.
If there's nothing known to be vertical/plumb nearby as a reference, hang a rock from a string. Or, a plumb bob if ya wanna get fancy.
Aim the rifle at the two-story home across the pond, align the vertical crosshair with the corner of the house.
If there's nothing known to be vertical/plumb nearby as a reference, hang a rock from a string. Or, a plumb bob if ya wanna get fancy.
mount the scope loosely in the rings.
Stack playing cards between the rail and the flat bottom of the turret housing until it is a firm but not tight fit
tighten the rings down and then pull the playing cards out.
Presto. Level.
Stack playing cards between the rail and the flat bottom of the turret housing until it is a firm but not tight fit
tighten the rings down and then pull the playing cards out.
Presto. Level.
Your reticle may not be perfectly square with the elevation knob - it may be slightly canted.
Rather then trying to level a scope to the action, I agree with others on the plumb Bob level. The plumb Bob's going to hang straight up and down (thanks gravity), and will allow you to get behind the rifle and level the scope and reticle to YOU, the shooter. Most people shoot with varying degrees of cant on the rifle, this way you are taking it out of the equation.
If you don't have access to a spot where you can hang a plumb bob, what I've done in the past that seems to work, when I had to level a scope and only had an apartment to do it in, is to take a cardboard box and place it against a wall. Will need about an ~10-11 yard distance if using an IOTA device, or longer if you have the distance and scope with the appropriate parallax. With the box in place, use a construction level and draw a cross hairs on the box with sharpie ( I prefer thinner tipped sharpies). Draw long lines, so you can use most of the reticle to level. Use a proper level, not some little rinky dink one. Get behind the rifle, setup as if you were to actually shoot (straight behind rifle, rear bag as you would use it, etc). It helps to put your scopes illumination on if you have it, and from here you can level your reticle.
Sounds ghetto, but it's worked well for me in a pinch when I've had limited resources and space to work with.
Rather then trying to level a scope to the action, I agree with others on the plumb Bob level. The plumb Bob's going to hang straight up and down (thanks gravity), and will allow you to get behind the rifle and level the scope and reticle to YOU, the shooter. Most people shoot with varying degrees of cant on the rifle, this way you are taking it out of the equation.
If you don't have access to a spot where you can hang a plumb bob, what I've done in the past that seems to work, when I had to level a scope and only had an apartment to do it in, is to take a cardboard box and place it against a wall. Will need about an ~10-11 yard distance if using an IOTA device, or longer if you have the distance and scope with the appropriate parallax. With the box in place, use a construction level and draw a cross hairs on the box with sharpie ( I prefer thinner tipped sharpies). Draw long lines, so you can use most of the reticle to level. Use a proper level, not some little rinky dink one. Get behind the rifle, setup as if you were to actually shoot (straight behind rifle, rear bag as you would use it, etc). It helps to put your scopes illumination on if you have it, and from here you can level your reticle.
Sounds ghetto, but it's worked well for me in a pinch when I've had limited resources and space to work with.
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