I know this has been beaten to death, but just looking for some more insight. New to the long range precision game. I have an 18” SPR gas gun that has a 3.6-18 mark5. My question is this, I’ve always mounted my scopes and put a small level on the flat top reciever and then a small level on the top of the elevation turret. I understand that any can’t and my shots will be far enough off at distance for a miss. So is this sufficient enough to level the reticle? Or should I be placing the scope in the mount, placing it on a level surface and then using a plum line to get the reticle level to gravity?
Gunsmithing Scope reticle leveling to ar reciever?
- Thread starter Lucreau
- Start date
There are a number of tools that work well for this task. I tend to use a set of feeler gauges.
- Set the scope loose in the mount and the mount properly torqued on the rifle
- Jam feeler gauges between the bottom side of the turret and the top of the rail/mount. Use enough so that the scope cannot twist in the mount.
- torque the scope rings
- done
www.snipershide.com
This tool is pretty slick as well:
arisakadefense.com
- Set the scope loose in the mount and the mount properly torqued on the rifle
- Jam feeler gauges between the bottom side of the turret and the top of the rail/mount. Use enough so that the scope cannot twist in the mount.
- torque the scope rings
- done
Rifle Scopes - Leveling scope with feeler gauges.
This was mentioned in another thread and figured I'd start a new thread instead if hijacking. How does a person level a scope with feeler gauges? I'm having trouble picturing how that is done. Could someone explain in detail?
www.snipershide.com
This tool is pretty slick as well:
Optic Leveler Small
The Optic Leveler is an inexpensive, easy-to-use tool for leveling scopes mounted in rings or one-piece mounts.
arisakadefense.com
Hang a sting with a rock tied to it at 100 yards. The shoulder the rifle, and turn the scope to where the crosshair covers up the string. Tighten it down, and recheck. Good enough and better than a cheap little bubble level.
do both
make sure your scope is level with the receiver as you have done (with a level or device)
BUT also verify the scope reticle is plumb when your rifle is level (or at your normal shooting position).
make sure your scope is level with the receiver as you have done (with a level or device)
BUT also verify the scope reticle is plumb when your rifle is level (or at your normal shooting position).
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Don't forget it's not just about scope cant.
You have to account for rifle cant, and in some cases, reticle cant.
Bubble level on the scope or rail that's easily seen when you're driving the rifle is just as important as making sure the scope is leveled to the rifle.
Reticle cant exists, but is minimal on high-end optics. Level the turret to the rifle, then check the vertical cross-hair against a bright string on a plumb bob at around 50 yards as already suggested. You can't "fix" it, but can account for it if it exists and you can quantify it. My understanding is high-end optics have a max tolerance of .5- 1 degree of reticle cant.
You have to account for rifle cant, and in some cases, reticle cant.
Bubble level on the scope or rail that's easily seen when you're driving the rifle is just as important as making sure the scope is leveled to the rifle.
Reticle cant exists, but is minimal on high-end optics. Level the turret to the rifle, then check the vertical cross-hair against a bright string on a plumb bob at around 50 yards as already suggested. You can't "fix" it, but can account for it if it exists and you can quantify it. My understanding is high-end optics have a max tolerance of .5- 1 degree of reticle cant.
If I don’t have access to the distance, would doing the flashlight method in the garage with a plum line suffice? Also, are any of you laying with the rifle and shouldering it as you normally would, and then leaving it in that position and leveling the reticle after? Instead of leveling to the receiver
Yes, the flashlight is the same effect. Just put the vertical crosshair plumb with the plumb line.
And do it at the same time, leverl the reticle while youre on the rifle so that the reticle is level to how you want to naturally shoot the rifle. If the receiver is a few degrees off in relation to the scope that is inconsequential.
Use a kitchen counter top or island to set the rifle on. (Make sure the counter is level. It should be.)
Level the rifle. I place it on a bipod and level it that way using a rear bag.
Install the ring lower halves. Place the scope in the rings and loosely install the upper halves.
Set your eye relief, then level the crosshair on your neighbor's door edge, window edge, garage door edge, etc.
Tighten rings and verify level again.
Bore sight on the neighbor's door knob.
Done. Easy peasy.
Level the rifle. I place it on a bipod and level it that way using a rear bag.
Install the ring lower halves. Place the scope in the rings and loosely install the upper halves.
Set your eye relief, then level the crosshair on your neighbor's door edge, window edge, garage door edge, etc.
Tighten rings and verify level again.
Bore sight on the neighbor's door knob.
Done. Easy peasy.
A few years ago I purchased a unit that works on any picatinny rail or AR flat top to level scopes. It's called Arisaka Scope Leveling Kit. Apparently he is a Jap rifle geek, but his rig works perfectly and fast. Only costs about $25 , super easy to use and accurate. No issues with cant unless you have an el cheapo Chinese low end scope.
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