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Shouldered Pre-fit Barrel Saftey Check

JohnSnark

Private
Minuteman
Apr 30, 2020
4
0
For safety reasons I want to check headspace before firing my new shouldered pre-fit barrel. Do I need to order all 3 go, no-go and field gauges to do a safety check?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
No you don’t need all 3 to start with but you should get the go and no go. The tape on the go gauge can work in a pinch but I wouldn’t recommend it. If you’re gonna try to get every last possible shot out of it get the field gauge too.
 
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Great thanks guys. Any other safety checks I should do? This is my first custom build and saftey is a top priority.
 
Why not get all three? I would argue that with a shouldered prefit you don't really need a "Go" gauge because you are not trying to set headspace like you would be doing on a barrel nut setup. On a shouldered prefit you are really just checking for/making sure you don't have dangerously excessive headspace. A rifle can fail a "NO GO" gauge and still be safe to shoot. If you fail a "NO GO" test your next step is to check it with a "Field" gauge If it fails a "Field" gauge test you definitely don't want to shoot it, but if it passes a "Field" gauge test I would be ok shooting it. IMO the names of the gauges should be
"GO" = "Ideal headspace"
"NO GO" = "Headspace on the plus side"
"Field" "Dangerously excessive headspace do not shoot"
 
I like using a go gauge and brass shims cut to the size of the bolt face. I want it to fall on the go, and when I add .002-.003" I want it to start to fall but not all the way.
I wouldn't be happy with a prefit that allowed the bolt to close on a nogo.
 
I wouldn't be happy with a prefit that allowed the bolt to close on a nogo
I bought a very slightly used AI AX 308 and I already had a set of gauges so I checked head space the bolt will close on the "NOGO", but it will not close on the "Field" gauge. Can't say I was happy with that, but it does shoot 1/2 MOA or less and the fired brass shows no sign of excessive wear so I am ok with it. I bought a 6.5CM barrel for it and the bolt will not close on the "No Go" gauge.
 
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I use some shims made from feeler gage blades, cut to fit bolt head. Ive got a .001, .002, .0025, .003, .004, and .005. When I spin on a barrel with barel nut or a shouldered prefit, I can record what it is and compare later on. Also makes it easy to get back to original headspace on a barrel nut prefit that gets switched, so previous brass caes fit.
 
Because I use only my own handloads and brass processed by others, I wouldn't want the headspace to be less than go since processors aim for '0' headspace - i.e., exactly what the go gauge is.
 
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Because I use only my own handloads and brass processed by others, I wouldn't want the headspace to be less than go since processors aim for '0' headspace - i.e., exactly what the go gauge is.
So you don't size your own brass?
You could have a barrel set at "0" h/s and still have no issues with factory or even handloads. Factory ammo is usually about .005" under a Go gage at the shoulder. When you reload, you bump the shoulder about .002" to feed reliably.
 
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Right. I headspace the barrels with a piece of tape under the go gauge to do just that.
I was pointing out that I would want to use a go and no go gauge in headspacing - not just a no go gauge. Without using the go gauge, you don't know whether the headspace is below 0.
 
Some things I do with prefits
Measure stand out of go gauge from breech of barrel.
Measure depth of bolt from boltface to most forward point.
Seat barrel and check with go gauge.
Add layers of clear packing tape to rear of go gauge till Bolt won’t close.
That tape is .002 thick so optimally(in my opinion) no more than one or two layers to stop bolt closing.
 
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Thanks everyone. Lots of good info. Just to clarify, my concern is safety. It seems to me that checking the headspace for safety reasons on a new shouldered pre-fit barrel would be a good idea. How do I know the shop didn't mess my order up, or the smith didn't make a mistake? I am trusting my life/safety with people I don't know.
 
Shoot one case and measure stretch or try a go gauge with tape or no go gauge.
If it passes that it’s GTG.
Unless it stretches the case grossly it’s safe.
Even if it stretches 10 thou it’s safe as long as your not planning on reloading the brass.
1-4 thou stretch is good.
 
Thanks everyone. Lots of good info. Just to clarify, my concern is safety. It seems to me that checking the headspace for safety reasons on a new shouldered pre-fit barrel would be a good idea. How do I know the shop didn't mess my order up, or the smith didn't make a mistake? I am trusting my life/safety with people I don't know.
What is your concern exactly?
 
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Forster offers three lengths of headspace gages for most rifle calibers, in order from shortest to longest:


  1. GO: Corresponds to the minimum chamber dimensions. If a rifle closes on a GO gage, the chamber will accept ammunition that is made to SAAMI maximum specifications. The GO gage is essential for checking a newly-reamed chamber in order to ensure a tight, accurate, and safe chamber that will accept SAAMI maximum ammo.
  2. NO-GO: Corresponds to the maximum headspace we recommend for gunsmiths’ chambering new bolt-action rifles. This is not a SAAMI-maximum measurement. If a rifle closes on a NO-GO gage, it may still be within SAAMI specifications, or it may have excessive headspace. To determine if there is excessive headspace, the chamber should then be checked with a FIELD gage. The NO-GO gage is a valuable tool for gunsmiths’ reaming new chambers, in order to ensure tight and accurate headspace.
  3. FIELD: Corresponds to the longest safe headspace. If a rifle closes on a FIELD gage, its chamber is dangerously close to, or longer than, SAAMI-specified maximum chamber size. If chamber headspace is excessive, the gun should be taken out of service until it has been inspected and repaired by a competent gunsmith. FIELD gages are slightly shorter than the SAAMI maximum in order to give a small safety margin.
 
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