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Hunting & Fishing Sleeping bag temp rating question

rgrmike

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 17, 2008
342
12
Fort Collins, CO
Guys,
I'm going on my first elk hunt in October. Most likely unit 75 in Colorado near Silverton. Average temps are from 20-50. I currently have a Golite 20 degree bag that's in great shape but it was manufactured in approx 2005. I will be using an inflatable sleep pad and will probably bring a foam as well. I have an REI bivy also. I was planning on stuffing some of my insulation layers in the bag if I need to. Other options are a Kifaru Woobie or possibly purchasing another bag. I generally sleep pretty hot but was curious if you think my current set up will be enough? Thanks for the advice.
 
It's all about layering. I have used a 32 degree bag down into the negatives. Just a matter of sleeping in warm layers instead of naked.
 
Thanks guys. That's kinda what I figured. I've slept in the mil issued black bag with bivy in the high 20's probably and was alright. I was just unsure of the temp rating on those. My current bag seems to be more significant than the mil issued if I remember.
 
Could also consider a bag liner. They are usually good for another 10 degrees or so...
 
Take the Kifaru Woobie and forget the other stuff. The woobie has so many uses….its a super functional piece of kit. Wrap yourself in that, then climb in your bag. PLENTY warm. Take it with you on your stalking in case you sit down for a while to glass…wrap it around you, lay on it, blah blah blah…..
 
Just picked up a 20* Kifaru slick bag for a hunt in the San Juans for the 2nd week in October with the same weather forecast. Ill let you know how it goes and what I think of the bag. I know by that time it will be too late but maybe I can give a good review for the other members so they know what kind of bag it is for future decisions.
 
Just picked up a 20* Kifaru slick bag for a hunt in the San Juans for the 2nd week in October with the same weather forecast. Ill let you know how it goes and what I think of the bag. I know by that time it will be too late but maybe I can give a good review for the other members so they know what kind of bag it is for future decisions.

Thanks man I appreciate it. This hunt will be a new experience for me so I'll try to share some of my insight when I get back.
 
For truck camping from a wall tent, where weight is of little concern, I use my Wiggy's bag.
For early-mid season backcountry, an Enlightened Equipment Rev X 20° quilt, over an insulated pad.

You'll prolly be fine, but if you find your 20° bag to be lacking, wear your insulating layer to bed, if its hooded, all the better! Plus, a dry pair of wool socks, gaiter, beanie hat and gloves. Fill your belly with food (fuel) before bed. If ya wake up cold, boil some water and fill up a Nalgene bottle to keep under the covers with ya. Repeat, as necessary...

Good luck on your hunt!
 
For truck camping from a wall tent, where weight is of little concern, I use my Wiggy's bag.
For early-mid season backcountry, an Enlightened Equipment Rev X 20° quilt, over an insulated pad.

You'll prolly be fine, but if you find your 20° bag to be lacking, wear your insulating layer to bed, if its hooded, all the better! Plus, a dry pair of wool socks, gaiter, beanie hat and gloves. Fill your belly with food (fuel) before bed. If ya wake up cold, boil some water and fill up a Nalgene bottle to keep under the covers with ya. Repeat, as necessary...

Good luck on your hunt!

Thanks for the advice. One of my hunting buddies spent a lot of time up in Alaska so I'm sure he'll be able to help me out too. I had just heard that sleeping bag ratings were a "survival" rating and not a comfort rating. It seems that it's a little brand dependent. I didn't want to take my 20 degree bag and really be needing a 0 degree or warmer.
 
I cannot stress enough that you must have insulation of some sort between yourself and the ground. I've woken up in the middle of the night shivering in Thailand and the air temp was 80+ but I had nothin between me and the ground. Any amount of bag is just about worthless if you don't insulate yourself from the ground, truck bed, air mattress, etc.... Standard issue ISO mats exist for a reason.
 
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I'm a trim dude, and I always freeze in sleeping backs in wether above their rating.

Get a good puss pad, and if you don't want to spend the coin on a Kifaru, just go grab a regular woobie from a military surplus store. They aren't as warm as the kifaru, but when added with a bag, bivy, and puss pad, you should be good. Make sure you have a bivy, nothing sucks more than getting into a wet sleeping bag.
 
My current set up is a GoLite 20degree bag, synthetic insulation, REI Minimalist Bivy, REI Flash sleep pad (not insulated I believe), and a Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol. Im debating on taking the Z lite vs. the Flash sleep pad…I might take both. I have a OR down puffy jacket and the PCU insulation pants I can stuff in there as well. I think I'll be good but I'm giving a lot of consideration to a woobie. Everyone still has theirs and for some reason I had to turn mine in.
 
Lol, I still have 3 or 4 of them. Only reason I have a Kifaru is because my girl is awesome and gets me cool ass gifts. Ranger Joes has woobies for 34 bucks.
 
Lol, I still have 3 or 4 of them. Only reason I have a Kifaru is because my girl is awesome and gets me cool ass gifts. Ranger Joes has woobies for 34 bucks.

Are the ones at Ranger Joes any good? I'm sure they're not Kifaru good but those babies bring a premium.
 
Agree on ground insulation being very important. A modular sleep system will serve you best.
 
Guys,
I'm going on my first elk hunt in October. Most likely unit 75 in Colorado near Silverton. Average temps are from 20-50. I currently have a Golite 20 degree bag that's in great shape but it was manufactured in approx 2005. I will be using an inflatable sleep pad and will probably bring a foam as well. I have an REI bivy also. I was planning on stuffing some of my insulation layers in the bag if I need to. Other options are a Kifaru Woobie or possibly purchasing another bag. I generally sleep pretty hot but was curious if you think my current set up will be enough? Thanks for the advice.

Thanks guys. That's kinda what I figured. I've slept in the mil issued black bag with bivy in the high 20's probably and was alright. I was just unsure of the temp rating on those. My current bag seems to be more significant than the mil issued if I remember.

My current set up is a GoLite 20degree bag, synthetic insulation, REI Minimalist Bivy, REI Flash sleep pad (not insulated I believe), and a Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol. Im debating on taking the Z lite vs. the Flash sleep pad…I might take both. I have a OR down puffy jacket and the PCU insulation pants I can stuff in there as well. I think I'll be good but I'm giving a lot of consideration to a woobie. Everyone still has theirs and for some reason I had to turn mine in.


My #1 sleeping bag for Alaska to include most of the winter is:
Renaissance | FELLFAB Military

20f is just about the perfect all round temp rating for Alaska until you get into the deep arctic temps and high altitude but I have used this very bag in Alaska even in January and February and alpine climbing to altitude....I survived just fine.

Always sleep with at least a base layer on, not only adds R value but keeps body oils, dirt, sweat and what ever from degrading the insulation of your sleeping bag. Sleep with all your clothes on as the temp drops, you carry all that extra weight so use it to stay warm. I have pushed my 20 bag down -10 or so wearing my clothing.

Using a bivy in my experience is very poor. They will increase your sleeping bag and body pressure difference meaning less breathability, insulation will not dry out and stay damp all trip as your body will not be able to push body vapor through so it will collect in the insulation and degrade its R value. Using a bivy inside a tent the pressure difference is huge. Stand alone bivy, try to cook in the rain, read, write, change clothes, etc. A small bivy tent like BD Firstlite is just a few ounces heavier but an actual tent.

My opinion is that the wobbie is useless. Of course I had an issue type and used it but its extra weight for true backcountry use as is. I had one that was sewed into a sleeping bag sorta of and I used it as a sleeping bag but the WildThings bivy liner was lighter and warmer.

I prefer to use a 1/2 length air pad with a full length foam pad, both from MSR for winter. For superlight, just a 1/2 length foam and place other things under my legs, backpack etc. Both of these will fit down into the sleeve of my Andinstia, off my pack for smaller profile and better load distribution of my pack.

In my experience I carry no down into the backcountry. Early in my career I did until we got caught out in the open is a huge Sept blow, we had to dig bolt holes to get out of the weather but all that precipitation and my body moisture I produced, sleeping bag got wet from the outside and inside, my down bag became useless and I very cold, shivering uncontrollable. After 3 days it blew on but another day or two and I may have lost the fight as some of my acquaintances have. My down bag was heavy and wet for another couple days of use and it never dried out back in camp even laying in the sun for 5 more days. Did not dry out until I was back home and hung it. Partners had synthetic bags and clothing and stayed warm and dry that whole trip. I know of someone who lost toes and one foot in the Wrangells due to a Sept storm, down bag and clothing got so wet and he froze his feet, his partner had a down bag but synthetic clothing and lost nothing but I venture out in the extreme of Alaska where help and roads are days and 100 miles away so my kit has to allow me to survive not be uncomfortable for a night until back to the cabin or rig.

Of course I am out of the industry and things change but sleeping bag ratings are done by a dummy person with sensors inside cold room. The measure or time the dummy determines the rating. Some companies give average, and high and survival rating. Are they accurate and the same across manufactures, no but closer than many think. Oblivious the more dead air the insulation traps for the body to heat up the warmer the bag is. But, down is soft and drapes around the body for less dead space for the body to heat where as synthetics are stiff and do not drape around the body with larger dead air space. Primaloft has a higher cloe rate than down, warmer per ounce over down but is so fine and small it requires a scrim to hold together so adds weight. Those who say synthetics do not last again, most regurgitate something they heard Vs actual use. The day of hollowfill are over, Primaloft will last years. I have an ID Renaissance from 1996 that is still as warm in use as it was day I got it. I machine wash and dry it and it removes all the dirt and fluffs it back up, try that with a down bag and the seems will rip.

And, food intake, body hydration, the weather, mental state, a lot of things go into how warm you will be in a sleeping bag.

You want your sleeping bag shell to breath, NO gore or likeness or the insulation will absorb body moisture and lose its loft, its the law of physics not my opinion.

And, most comfort level comes from the state of the mind. You want to be there and enjoy the adventure then most likely you will be more comfortable than the other guy who is just not happy. I have seen across the mind set spectrum and from day one in the hills, its obvious once you guide for a while who will be comfortable and full of enjoyment and those who will not. Throughout the day even during sufferfest like 3000 feet of scree or miles of sidehilling, I would do a shake down and stop and view Alaska, give some useless tibbit and tell my charges to stop and soak it all in, you are experiencing the greatest view God has made in the greatest country the world has known and let them soak it all in and shake down their mind set, worked very well but still a few that are just angry at the world and themselves.

have fun and good luck
 
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45.308,
Thanks for taking the time to write that post. You're obviously a wealth of knowledge and I appreciate the insight. All of my insulation is primaloft other than a OR 600 fill hoodie that has a water resistant shell. Depending on the weather I was either going to take the OR or my Arcteryx Atom LT. The Atom LT is primaloft and in combination with my base layers, and KUIU guide stuff I think I'll be fine. Your thoughts on the bivy are very interesting to me. I'm using a BA 1P fishhook tent and was considering taking a bivy just as a security layer I guess. After reading your post I might just take my bag and call it good. Whenever I've used a bivy in the past I've always used it as more of a blanket when under a poncho etc. My REI bivy isn't goretex so maybe it'll be fine?
 
Whatever you do, be as clean and dry on your person as possible. A beanie and a decent set of long johns like Patagonia middle weight can help. If you wear socks make sure they are clean and dry, do not wear the socks you been in all day. FWIW, I never wear socks at night, I keep a new pair in my bag. My old ones can be washed out and hung out.

Your problem with Silverton is going to be the altitude. A pillow might help you breath. Your resting pulse lowers and you will get a slight headache from the lack of oxygen. Might hit you for a couple days. Breath. Watch your alcohol intake and drink plenty of water. If you tuck your head in your bag, you are going to have all types of condensation, you might try a bandana.

Sounds like a good time, good luck. Prior proper planning, prevents......And it looks like you are thinking about it!
 
Anything that decreases the bodies ability to push body vapor coming from the body through layers and insulation at some point the body does not produce enough pressure to push it through it all to the outside air and it collects and can freeze. Its physics. Gore or any waterproof barrier will not allow the body to push vapor so it collects under the barrier somewhere. Tent restricts the air flow and will become humid as you are inside. Now add another layer of restriction, bivy and the bivy will restrict body vapor even more. Open weave or a microfiber is the best as they have little restriction to the system and allow the body to push vapor out to dry in the open air.

An extreme case view, wear a plastic bag around your body during the day, all that body vapor stays around the body, the same thing happens in your outdoor clothing and sleeping system, the more your system restricts the body from pushing vapor out to the open air the more body vapor has to collect somewhere its just you cannot see it wearing vapor restricting barrier material in the backcountry but its there, its physics of how the body works.
 
Anything that decreases the bodies ability to push body vapor coming from the body through layers and insulation at some point the body does not produce enough pressure to push it through it all to the outside air and it collects and can freeze. Its physics. Gore or any waterproof barrier will not allow the body to push vapor so it collects under the barrier somewhere. Tent restricts the air flow and will become humid as you are inside. Now add another layer of restriction, bivy and the bivy will restrict body vapor even more. Open weave or a microfiber is the best as they have little restriction to the system and allow the body to push vapor out to dry in the open air.

An extreme case view, wear a plastic bag around your body during the day, all that body vapor stays around the body, the same thing happens in your outdoor clothing and sleeping system, the more your system restricts the body from pushing vapor out to the open air the more body vapor has to collect somewhere its just you cannot see it wearing vapor restricting barrier material in the backcountry but its there, its physics of how the body works.


Interesting. So are you an advocator of Gore-Tex in boots, clothing etc? The more I wear boots the less I like Gore-Tex. My feet sweat a lot and even with merino socks I'm always having to air out my feet etc. I think my next boot will be a leather lined Lowa/Zamberlan perhaps but leather lined boots are harder and harder to find.
 
I'd like to chime in, for a moment. I've followed Mr. 45.308 for quite a while now, so listen up class!
Boots- All leather if in "moderate climes", as they breath, and dry out much faster than anything gore-tex. Gore-tex boots are nothing but buckets, granted, they may keep H2O from entering in from the outside surface, but if water depth dumps in over the top, the boot wont drain and take MUCH longer to dry. Also, moisture trapped from perspiration will not leave the boot, in my experience.
La Sportiva is the best for my feet and use, Pamir and Makalu boot styles. For sweaty feet, as 45.308 prescribes, use an antiperspirant on your feet...

These suggestions work and I thought I knew what I was doing for the last 30 years, but just because you've been doing something for a long time, doesn't mean you've been doin it right...
 
Interesting. So are you an advocator of Gore-Tex in boots, clothing etc? The more I wear boots the less I like Gore-Tex. My feet sweat a lot and even with merino socks I'm always having to air out my feet etc. I think my next boot will be a leather lined Lowa/Zamberlan perhaps but leather lined boots are harder and harder to find.

I am absolutely not an advocate of gore or any waterproof barrier. Gore works OK in cold dry air where there is pressure difference between warm moist air around the core of the body and the cold dry air in the environment but under these environments wet precipitation falls little why do you need waterproof fabric. 99% of the time is does not work as advertised in the climates all of us play in that is breathable if you understand how the bodies micro climate works.

The body has a micro climate around it and this is what pushes warm vapor from around the body through all layers of clothing and finally the outside air where it evaporates. This is what is commonly known as breathable. The more open the weave is of the fabric around the body the more easily the bodies micro climate can work to push vapor through and out to the air. This is why microfibers work so well as they allow so much vapor to pass that rain and snow have a hard time entering through the fabric. Now with a good DWR coating on the fabric to bead up water like wax on your car, the weave stays open passing vapor yet the vapor pushing through keeps rain and snow out. This is breathable and the Scottish eons ago figured this out and used what we call today softshells. For moving in weather softshells outperform Gore or any barrier fabric. Fishing and standing around, softshells not that good as the body is not working to keep rain and water out. In my experience all softshells outperform any barrier but Schoeller Dynamic is the highest performing softshell I used. Softshells with a fuzz backing are poor for moving fast with body movement like hiking, climbing, skiing, etc. Lowe Alpine in my use had the best performing WP fabric I used called ceramic but again it did not come close to softshells. The holes were made in the fabric with ceramic beads and were larger diameter than industry standards barrier fabrics and it work very well, the best in my experience for a WB fabric.

Gore had a superb ad campaign telling us for years that Gore is the best fabric ever so of course we all bought into and many manufactures found out, unless their garment had a Gore hang tag, the consumer would not buy it so, they all had to use Gore in order to sell. Marmot Mountain Works in Durango CO in the late 70s brought Gore to the outdoor industry. Mammut and Cloudveil brought softshells to outdoor world with great success but a hard sell until users starting using them.

Another phenomenon with barrier fabrics is flash off. This is where the body is working hard and all that body vapor is under pressure under te barrier fabric when all thaqt vapor is flashed out through the fabric very quickly leaving the core of the body cold and can be dangerous, its very hard to get the body micro climate back to working after flash off. I had experienced it for years not knowing what it was but I had a charge go south due to flash off in Kenai mtns that opened my eyes to flash off.

I had the opportunity to know what a half half is, this is a garment sewn with the right half of one fabric and the left half of something different to test in the outdoor environments. Immediately the performance of softshells crush barrier type fabrics in the real world use. A half half can be wool and synthetic, synthetic and a different synthetic, even barrier and a barrier, depends on what the manufactures wants to test.

Do not use 100% wool socks but a 60% synthetic 40% wool sock. You get the best of both fabrics. 100% wool is nice for around the camp and roads but 100 miles in the backcountry of Alaska I found they did not perform like 60/40 sock. Before you bounce down the trail each day rub Degree underarm antiperspirant liberally all over your feet and toes, this will control sweat just like underarms keeping feet socks happy and comfy. I take 3pr of socks, one of my feet, one dry in my pack and one drying. A 60/40 sock will dry over night laying across your chest inside your sleeping bag where as wool will stay damp. Try Bridgedale summit series socks.
 
Whatever you do, be as clean and dry on your person as possible. A beanie and a decent set of long johns like Patagonia middle weight can help. If you wear socks make sure they are clean and dry, do not wear the socks you been in all day. FWIW, I never wear socks at night, I keep a new pair in my bag. My old ones can be washed out and hung out.

Your problem with Silverton is going to be the altitude. A pillow might help you breath. Your resting pulse lowers and you will get a slight headache from the lack of oxygen. Might hit you for a couple days. Breath. Watch your alcohol intake and drink plenty of water. If you tuck your head in your bag, you are going to have all types of condensation, you might try a bandana.

Sounds like a good time, good luck. Prior proper planning, prevents......And it looks like you are thinking about it!


Good advice. If you drink coffee stop all caffeine intake two weeks before you leave for your hunt as it takes 2 week to flush out caffeine from the body. Now that cup in the AM is rocket fuel.

Hydrate weeks before leaving and stay hydrate, sip every 15-30mins.

Eat a good breakfast then snack all day, do not eat lunch as this will move blood to your core to digest leaving you sluggish and tired and cool.

But, I do wear damp socks and clothing to bed to dry them. With my Primaloft insulated and Pertex shell ID sleeping bag, the pressure gradient is wide so my body dries all clothing over night. When we put up Tempest in Oct, we got soaked to the bone with snain in high wind and hard sufferfest in waist deep wet snow wearing softshells and synthetic, we set up the Bibler tent, jumped into ID sleeping bags and waited out the storm and in the AM, body core and all clothing was dry.
 
Lots of good info coming in guys. I really appreciate it a lot. I'll be sure to pass it on to my hunting buddies. One of them lived in Alaska for about 5 years and has some outdoor experience in harsh climates. I'm really learning a lot here. I'm 30 years old and I've always grown up with Gore-Tex boots. It seems that's all that's available these days and I just thought very sweaty feet was just part of the deal. My next pair of boots will be non Gore-Tex for sure. I'm actually going to be looking for a pair of sheep hunting boots and would love some recommendations. I wanted to try the Zamberlan Expert Ibex but they're Gore-Tex…Lowa Tibets can be found leather lined but I'm not sure if they're going to be as stiff as I'd like. I'll have to check out La Sportiva. A lot of guys in my mil unit used to wear the Glacier's and La Tak I believe. They seemed to like them a lot.
 
GREAT info from 45.308!

To clarify, I'd recommend Darn Tough wool socks, as they are a blend of merino/synthetic. Best I've ever worn.

Also, when opting for a quilt as part of your sleep system, the insulating "R-value" rating of the pad is of vital importance, as quilts are designed for use in conjunction with one. I use an Exped Synmat UL-9 with an R rating of 6, works wonderfully with the lightweight down EE Rev-X 20°.
If the weather reports are looking especially wet, I will opt for my EE Prodigy 20° quilt, which uses Climashield Apex insulation. If synthetic is a must for safety in a soaking wet climate, its only a ~6oz. weight penalty to have that peace of mind...

Far as boots go, I recommend a good pair of gaiters to help keep moisture from wicking down your socks. Learned that the hard way & melted a pair of GoreTex boots when trying to dry them by the fire too quickly after that happened to me! Live & learn...
 
GREAT info from 45.308!

To clarify, I'd recommend Darn Tough wool socks, as they are a blend of merino/synthetic. Best I've ever worn.

Also, when opting for a quilt as part of your sleep system, the insulating "R-value" rating of the pad is of vital importance, as quilts are designed for use in conjunction with one. I use an Exped Synmat UL-9 with an R rating of 6, works wonderfully with the lightweight down EE Rev-X 20°.
If the weather reports are looking especially wet, I will opt for my EE Prodigy 20° quilt, which uses Climashield Apex insulation. If synthetic is a must for safety in a soaking wet climate, its only a ~6oz. weight penalty to have that peace of mind...

Far as boots go, I recommend a good pair of gaiters to help keep moisture from wicking down your socks. Learned that the hard way & melted a pair of GoreTex boots when trying to dry them by the fire too quickly after that happened to me! Live & learn...

I have a pair of gaiters I've used in the past and they're worth their weight in gold if you ask me. Mine are the OR crocodiles I believe that are Gore-Tex. They really help to keep your boots clean and stop the dreaded wet pants leaking into your socks and boots. In my experience extended walking through wet grass will soak a pair of boots worse than just about anything.
 
Lots of good info coming in guys. I really appreciate it a lot. I'll be sure to pass it on to my hunting buddies. One of them lived in Alaska for about 5 years and has some outdoor experience in harsh climates. I'm really learning a lot here. I'm 30 years old and I've always grown up with Gore-Tex boots. It seems that's all that's available these days and I just thought very sweaty feet was just part of the deal. My next pair of boots will be non Gore-Tex for sure. I'm actually going to be looking for a pair of sheep hunting boots and would love some recommendations. I wanted to try the Zamberlan Expert Ibex but they're Gore-Tex…Lowa Tibets can be found leather lined but I'm not sure if they're going to be as stiff as I'd like. I'll have to check out La Sportiva. A lot of guys in my mil unit used to wear the Glacier's and La Tak I believe. They seemed to like them a lot.

Sheep hunt where? For Alaska the white ghost and mtn antelope, Scarpa Invernos are popular and work very well. For bashing up scree for hours, side hilling on rocks, back down for days, Invernos will take the beating and will also protect your valuable feet from the bashing. All the guides I worked with highly recommended them and wore them. Of course they are not for every one but then again what is.

My favorite boots are LaSportiva Nepal with the current boot the EVO. This is the mountain boot that all other boot cobblers envy. And for good reason, I have tested many boots and nothing comes close in performance and fit to the Nepal.

Lhotse from Sportiva we asked for and got issued from the CO. We would go through a pair of Ft Lewis in 3-4 months, Lhotse last a full tour or close to it. According to my inside rep at Sportiva, the Lhotse was issued to many units and at one time the sold more to US military than civilians creating a small shortage of Lhotse boots and I know a few high speed units that wore the Trango S but LaSportiva would not change the color and dying the leather is near impossible. Trango Extreme my #2 boot.

Along with your mountain boots use hob nails for goat and sheep hunting, several companies make them but I have used CAMP and Sportiva.

For gaiters, I prefer a simple coated nylon pair. I then take sandpaper and scrub off the coating on the upper so its an open weave nylon for breathability. Gore around the lower leg is not bad but I prefer it to breath as much as possible. OR Crocs are superb but I find a little heavy and steamy. I wore low gaiters mostly. On your gaiters with a strap under the boot, use 1" tube nylon webbing. Cut to length that in long enough for just under the instep of the boot, keep the tube ends open and use a lighter to melt the ends of the nylon, slide the nylon over the gaiter strap. The tube nylon will protect the strap from rocks, cutting, abrasion. Duct tape also works well.

Any boot that gets soaked walking through wet grass meaning the leather absorbs water is a poor boot, period. I wore Nepals wading creeks, mud, snow slop for days at time and the leather not a single water droplet entered the leather. Gaiters protect debris from entering the top of the boot, not protect the boot from water. Wear Gore gaiter up 3000 feet of scree wearing a 50# pack and sweat will roll down your legs into your socks and boots, gaiter must breath just like the whole system.
 
Sheep hunt where? For Alaska the white ghost and mtn antelope, Scarpa Invernos are popular and work very well. For bashing up scree for hours, side hilling on rocks, back down for days, Invernos will take the beating and will also protect your valuable feet from the bashing. All the guides I worked with highly recommended them and wore them. Of course they are not for every one but then again what is.

My favorite boots are LaSportiva Nepal with the current boot the EVO. This is the mountain boot that all other boot cobblers envy. And for good reason, I have tested many boots and nothing comes close in performance and fit to the Nepal.

Lhotse from Sportiva we asked for and got issued from the CO. We would go through a pair of Ft Lewis in 3-4 months, Lhotse last a full tour or close to it. According to my inside rep at Sportiva, the Lhotse was issued to many units and at one time the sold more to US military than civilians creating a small shortage of Lhotse boots and I know a few high speed units that wore the Trango S but LaSportiva would not change the color and dying the leather is near impossible. Trango Extreme my #2 boot.

Along with your mountain boots use hob nails for goat and sheep hunting, several companies make them but I have used CAMP and Sportiva.

For gaiters, I prefer a simple coated nylon pair. I then take sandpaper and scrub off the coating on the upper so its an open weave nylon for breathability. Gore around the lower leg is not bad but I prefer it to breath as much as possible. OR Crocs are superb but I find a little heavy and steamy. I wore low gaiters mostly. On your gaiters with a strap under the boot, use 1" tube nylon webbing. Cut to length that in long enough for just under the instep of the boot, keep the tube ends open and use a lighter to melt the ends of the nylon, slide the nylon over the gaiter strap. The tube nylon will protect the strap from rocks, cutting, abrasion. Duct tape also works well.

Any boot that gets soaked walking through wet grass meaning the leather absorbs water is a poor boot, period. I wore Nepals wading creeks, mud, snow slop for days at time and the leather not a single water droplet entered the leather. Gaiters protect debris from entering the top of the boot, not protect the boot from water. Wear Gore gaiter up 3000 feet of scree wearing a 50# pack and sweat will roll down your legs into your socks and boots, gaiter must breath just like the whole system.

Most likely Colorado. I'll be moving there in December so a 2015 hunt is likely as long as everything goes well with my work. My company is also considering doing a sponsored Alaska hunt. A few of us are pretty serious hunters so if we could get an over the counter sheep tag we might do that. I haven't looked into it yet so I don't even know if it's an option. We do have some employees that live in Alaska so I wouldn't mind just helping them spot my first time. For me it's really about being out there. For Colorado I would imagine that the Inverno is overkill. I have ZERO experience with a plastic boot but I would think it's to much for 10-14K ft. Those look very serious to me.

I will be sure to check out La Sportiva. I know a lot of guys who really like them. I think the most robust boot I'd be interested in would be the Nepal. The Lhotse looks good too but in all reality I could probably get by with a Trango's or Makula's. When I get back to Colorado I'll try to find a place that stocks them and try some pairs on. La Sportiva and Scarpa both offer a pretty awesome pro deal. My current "hunting boots" are Zamberlan 960 Guide GTX RR. I got these for a great price but had to order online before trying on and had a lot of sizing issues. I originally thought they might be a half size to small but after putting 20 miles on them with a pack I think they're alright. They're not stiff enough for my liking really. I've been doing some fast 3-4 mile terrain walks (in combination with my normal PT) with a 40lb pack and they've got just a little to much flex for me. That's the main reason I'm wanting to try the Zam Expert Ibex. It does have insulation in it which I don't really want though.

I'll put some tubular Nylon on my gaiters for sure. That's a great idea. I could see how rocky terrain could chew up the bands really quickly. I'm relatively new to high end boots. I've had pretty good luck out of medium priced boots such as Asolo Fugatives etc but I'm not pushing them in extended harsh conditions like others. I have had wet grass get my feet pretty wet although after reading the info on here sweat is probably my biggest enemy.

Thanks again for all of the awesome info.