So over it. I need an ACCURATE Scale.

[Geno C.]

I got my Auto-trickler powder valve yesterday.

All the Area 419 stuff is super nice.

I'm going to make a 3/8" or so aluminum base with leveling feet for the whole thing.

That way I level the base, then level the scale and adjust the Area 419 trickler base for powder flow. After that, if I move things, I just level the base and everything should be ready to go just setting it on top of the base.

That should make my powder measuring system complete.

OR just have a level bench...

 

[mdmp5]

I started with a RCBS Chargemaster, and I thought that is was great until I started consistently watching my loads on a Chrono. I was using high quality components, and doing everything else in the reloading process by the book, but I could not consistently keep my ES (extreme spread) below 20 fps. Shooting Long Range F-Class, that variation was costing me the difference between a X or a 10.

I then purchased a Gem Pro trying not to break the bank. I was throwing with the Chargemaster, and then checking with the Gem Pro. I found that the throws from the Chargemaster could vary by +/- a full grain (about 5-6 kernels of powder). With the Gem Pro, I was able to get that down to single kernel of powder. Then my ES dropped down to around 10 fps.

I was very happy, and then the Gem Pro went completely to $#!@. It would not hold calibration, and it would drift all over the place. Good News, Gem Pro warrantied it and sent me another one.

As they say, spend once, and cry once, so I sold the Gem Pro and got the A&D 120.

I have been using it for over 3 years now, and if there is 1 piece of reloading equipment that is a must, that would be it IMHO.

Regarding some of the comments made about being successful with other products.
My experience with the RCBS Chargemaster:

• I have gone through 3 of them in the past 10 years, and none of them performed the same. One of them worked extremely well, and the other 2 were hit or miss.
• If you reprogram them, and use some device (straw or insert) to help with the trickle, you can increase their performance/consistency.
• Based on my experiences, the average accuracy that I can expect out of one is +/- a grain. Once again, that may vary based on the unit, or based on the type of powder you are throwing.
• If a load that is +/- a grain is acceptable, then they will work just fine.

For me it ultimately comes down to the chrono numbers. If I can’t get the ES to around 10 fps or better, then it is not going to work for what I am trying to accomplish. You ultimately have to look at what ES number you are willing to accept, and what type of device it take to consistently get you there?

Some other notes:

• Per some comments above, if you are using an electronic scale, you really need to address all of the potential electronic interference sources. My scales are on a dedicated circuit. If you can’t do that, try to at least make sure nothing on that circuit is in use when the scale is. Watch your lighting source, fluorescent lights are a big issue. I use a voltage regulator/power conditioner between the outlet and power cord for the scale. High quality electronic scales are only as good as the power source that they operate on.
• Protect the scale when not is use. Dust may not seem like an issue, but it can cause issues.
• Protect everything involved from static electricity build up. Like the electronic circuit, this can also cause consistency issues.
• Use high quality calibration weights, and check your calibration very frequently.
• Make sure your scale is on an isolated surface, movement from other operations can cause issues.
• Make sure your scale is level, and check it frequently. My scale being about a ¼ of a bubble off on the level can change the measurement by about a full grain.

If you are good with a load that AVERAGES 1 MOA, then most of this is probably just overkill. But if you are striving for a VERY CONSISTENT 0.5 MOA load or better, this stuff can make a difference.

Chargemaster is much better than +/- a grain. Maybe 0.1 grains yes

 

[Bulldog Firearms]

Chargemaster was .15 grain accurate according to a sample of 10 charges verified on a fx120i.

 

[mdmp5]

I’m a fan of precision for sure, but the price of precision in measuring powder throws can be steep. That ad trickler seems to be a very good way of doing it, but at almost 3x the cost of a chargemaster. I’m using a chargemaster now, but I wish I didn’t sell my Redding powder throw because that was actually the fastest with the trickler.

 

[Bulldog Firearms]

The quality of life change going from a chargemaster, hand trickling up charging on a FX120 scale, to a autothrow & autotrickler was well worth the expense. Makes me wonder why I waited so long. Reloading is much more enjoyable.

 

[300ATT]

Not to throw a turd in the punchbowl but I ended up ditching my electronic scales and brought my Redding mechanical balance beam scale out of mothballs. I got tired of the electronic scales "wandering" and became uncomfortable that the weight displayed was more of a suggestion than reality.

This approach is definitely not as cool as the A&D 120 but it just works - there is nothing to go wrong. Reasonably fast when combined with a really good benchrest measure (Harrel's) so that you only have to trickle .1-.2 grs. What I like is that it is impervious to vibration, shock, spills, static, crappy line power and because it's caveman simple I trust it.

Bang for the buck it cannot be beat and is accurate enough to get ES below 15 fps and SD's 5-8 fps on my match rifles (.308, .260, .243 and 6x47) which is better than I was able to do with the electronic scale.

All that being said, I will get the A&D sometime in the future ...

 

[TXSGFmrCWO3]

Just to mention an option, this battery powered digital scale is pretty amazing. The SHARPSHOOTER Digital Reloading Scale 20 g x 0.001 g by TruWeigh.com is designed specifically for reloading. I was really surprised when it came in a hard plastic case, well packed with the scale, accessories, and instructions. It appears to be very accurate, at least as verified by my other 3 digital and manual scales.

 

[CE Products]

https://ce-products.myshopify.com/p...cale-autotrickler-v2-autothrow-area-419-combo

 

[patriot07]

Not to throw a turd in the punchbowl but I ended up ditching my electronic scales and brought my Redding mechanical balance beam scale out of mothballs. I got tired of the electronic scales "wandering" and became uncomfortable that the weight displayed was more of a suggestion than reality.

This approach is definitely not as cool as the A&D 120 but it just works - there is nothing to go wrong. Reasonably fast when combined with a really good benchrest measure (Harrel's) so that you only have to trickle .1-.2 grs. What I like is that it is impervious to vibration, shock, spills, static, crappy line power and because it's caveman simple I trust it.

Bang for the buck it cannot be beat and is accurate enough to get ES below 15 fps and SD's 5-8 fps on my match rifles (.308, .260, .243 and 6x47) which is better than I was able to do with the electronic scale.

All that being said, I will get the A&D sometime in the future ...

Agree 100% with this. Best results I've had for speed and accuracy were using a chargemaster to throw .1 grains low and dumping on a beam scale with a Hornady hand-trickler to get it just right.

ES around 10 fps, reasonably fast, very affordable.

If you have multiple $2500 scopes and rifles that cost more than my first truck, go for the expensive stuff. If you are on a budget like me having a wife and 2 kids and not wanting to work til I'm 65, then the CM and a beam scale actually works really well.

 

[steve123]

Harrel's powder measure, Scott Parker tuned lyman M5. Thumb and forefinger - trickler's slow you down, go instinctive man!