So we put a 3L turbo diesel into a Jeep TJ. Diesel guys step on inside.

JimmyJr

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Had a 97 Jeep TJ and we decided to make a little project out of it after I blew the original engine up.. Not quite done as I wanted to finally get new/larger wheels on it and swap out the MetalCloak fenders on it to the wider 8 inch version as the short ones allowed mud/rocks to fly off the front wheel and basically shotgun the rear fenders and the MetalCloak Rocker rail as it seems the wife now needs a 'step' to get into it.

Here's where I'm at:

3L turbo diesel out of a Touareg (pushing 24lbs of boost at the moment)
AX15 transmission
Intercooler
Teraflex lift, short arm, Bilstein shocks
ARB Engine compressor with front/rear air lockers
MetalCloak front/rear frame mounted bumpers
MetalCloak fenders
MetalCloak stinger
Lightbar + fairlead 'connected' lights
Fog lights
IR lights with Blackout switch that kills all visible electronics; Odometer delete
Complete repaint in 686 tan

Work in Progress:

There's a part my build guy is getting from Scotland of all places that was designed for this engine that somehow can help 'tune' it and make it more efficient while also getting 3-4lbs of extra boost
17 or 18 inch wheels
MetalCloak fenders (wider)
MetalCloak rocker
Rear facing jump seat and harness
Pintle mount on side, rear roll bar for 249/240 cradle

Now here is where you diesel guys come in. This thing already sounds and shakes exactly like a HMMWV. It has a ridiculous amount of turbo spool/hissing/sucking going on as I shift between gears. Its hilarious. The local Jeep guy populace is already confused and somewhat frightened. In 1st, I can almost lift the damn front wheels off the ground, and it sounds like it should be coming out of something 3 times this size.

When driving it home, I was driving through my neighborhood and the 'bored housewives club' was out walking their dogs and fuck trophies. They basically scattered like a bunch of scared animals off of the road when I came around the corner.

How do I make this thing even more obnoxiously loud while increasing performance?
Super cool man!
Assuming it’s already straight piped? If not then do that.
Needs an air compressor, air horn and air brakes.
Megaphone.
Big antenna.
 

elwarpo

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Running 5.3l gen 3 V8s in both my LJs, 400hp and 330 ft lbs of torque, unfortunately the 6 speed manual could not handle the power, so went with a 4L60e since s bigger manusl would not fit. Still hsve a 6 speed if you want it.
 

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DoctorBen

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View attachment 7850650
When I Turbo’d my M998, I cut off the mufflers and ran a straight pipe to a fording exhaust. Note it is on the wrong side! Cut it off and changed the tip angle and made some other mods.

Between the .50, the Saw and the straight stack… it is obnoxious for sure. Which is the idea. Makes the Xanax and scary-mommy set all pissy for sure.

Also goes like a raped ape. I keep the boost under 10, though. Those 6.2 non turbo motors don’t like high boost and will grenade if pushed too hard. But it is nice to be able to pull out in traffic and not cause a line!

Sirhr
You sir, are amazing.
 

TonyTheTiger

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There's a part my build guy is getting from Scotland of all places that was designed for this engine that somehow can help 'tune' it and make it more efficient while also getting 3-4lbs of extra boost
What part is this? I've got a Kerma tuned Touareg TDI and it surprises most people at a stop light, but I'm not opposed to making more boost if its as simple as a bolt on. Good luck making it loud though. I've heard a few straight piped 3.0's and they just aren't that loud. Same thing when I straight piped my Jetta TDI, sounded stock. My 12v Cummins on the other hand makes all the obnoxious noises you're after.
 

E. Bryant

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    Keto in mind that the "more boost" approach only works if you feed it more fuel. A factory Ford 6.4 runs 32 PSI, and that's simply to provide what's referred to as "excess air" to reduce particulate emissions. Doesn't do shit for power until more fuel is added. Bonus points if that fuel is added before there engine starts building boast under load; you'll get better throttle response and can roll coal.

    For maximum noise, simply don't run anything other that the shortest possible piece of big pipe after the turbo. In that short Jeep, I'd think you could run it out the back and it'd still be plenty loud.

    If you're making enough ummph to make the front wheels light, I hope you have some drivetrain mods planned or else you're going to be chasing weak links.

    Sounds like a cool rig - can't wait to see some pictures.
     

    TonyTheTiger

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    Also, for maximum GBPSE points call it a Porsche Cayenne or Audi Q7 diesel engine. Most people won't know that's just fancy speak for VW and you'll sound sophisticated.
     

    Mike Casselton

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    Had a 97 Jeep TJ and we decided to make a little project out of it after I blew the original engine up.. Not quite done as I wanted to finally get new/larger wheels on it and swap out the MetalCloak fenders on it to the wider 8 inch version as the short ones allowed mud/rocks to fly off the front wheel and basically shotgun the rear fenders and the MetalCloak Rocker rail as it seems the wife now needs a 'step' to get into it.

    Here's where I'm at:

    3L turbo diesel out of a Touareg (pushing 24lbs of boost at the moment)
    AX15 transmission
    Intercooler
    Teraflex lift, short arm, Bilstein shocks
    ARB Engine compressor with front/rear air lockers
    MetalCloak front/rear frame mounted bumpers
    MetalCloak fenders
    MetalCloak stinger
    Lightbar + fairlead 'connected' lights
    Fog lights
    IR lights with Blackout switch that kills all visible electronics; Odometer delete
    Complete repaint in 686 tan

    Work in Progress:

    There's a part my build guy is getting from Scotland of all places that was designed for this engine that somehow can help 'tune' it and make it more efficient while also getting 3-4lbs of extra boost
    17 or 18 inch wheels
    MetalCloak fenders (wider)
    MetalCloak rocker
    Rear facing jump seat and harness
    Pintle mount on side, rear roll bar for 249/240 cradle

    Now here is where you diesel guys come in. This thing already sounds and shakes exactly like a HMMWV. It has a ridiculous amount of turbo spool/hissing/sucking going on as I shift between gears. Its hilarious. The local Jeep guy populace is already confused and somewhat frightened. In 1st, I can almost lift the damn front wheels off the ground, and it sounds like it should be coming out of something 3 times this size.

    When driving it home, I was driving through my neighborhood and the 'bored housewives club' was out walking their dogs and fuck trophies. They basically scattered like a bunch of scared animals off of the road when I came around the corner.

    How do I make this thing even more obnoxiously loud while increasing performance?

    Add turbo whine or whistle like a deuce and a half
     

    Soulezoo

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    My 8000 lbs Diesel. Not my fastest time, just the time slip I had handy. Otherwise, at one time I had a top 50 in the US fastest diesels. You know, pics or it didn't happen. 24 lbs boost? Pffft. You run Condor gear. I used to hit 100 psi. I was once dubbed the Dr. Evil of turbos as I was the first to have high performance ball bearing twin (compound) turbos and designed kits for Cummins.

    PM me if you want to know more.
     

    AMGtuned

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    What you need is anti lag... that is loud and obnoxious.

    BOVs are gay and unnecessary, unless you are trying to keep the MAF happy.
    Compressor surge? 🤔

    I ran a Tial 135db on my old 05 Evo MR. Absolutely sick sounding, and was beyond necessary at the levels of boost being produced.

    However; I do agree that they have their place. A properly set up bypass valve can be just as, or even more, effective. You can even still hear them 🤷‍♂️ . Probably all very application/user specific.
     
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    AMGtuned

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    @TheGerman why the VW? Maybe I missed it.

    A couple of my good friends build custom Land Rovers at East Coast Rover. Other than LS swaps, and Rover factory rebuilds; there is a small powerstroke diesel that is a very popular swap in the LR. Pretty sure its standard equipment in a lot of euro trash type stuff. Also pretty sure that a modified version is what lives in the new euro Ranger, and US F150 diesel.

    Let's be clear; I do not think I know the answer, nor am I questioning your end goal. Just curious of the path that led to engine choice.
     

    AMGtuned

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    My 8000 lbs Diesel. Not my fastest time, just the time slip I had handy. Otherwise, at one time I had a top 50 in the US fastest diesels. You know, pics or it didn't happen. 24 lbs boost? Pffft. You run Condor gear. I used to hit 100 psi. I was once dubbed the Dr. Evil of turbos as I was the first to have high performance ball bearing twin (compound) turbos and designed kits for Cummins.

    PM me if you want to know more.
    Ummmmmmm.......

    11.9 w/ an 8k lb rig, is smoking! Nicely done!

    First time I ripped my Evo; I had a helmet because I knew 13.99(helmet threshold time) was an wasy mark. What I didnt know, is that I was going to cross below the 11.99 roll cage threshold. Guy at the ticket booth said, "nice time, now get that car off my track". 🤣🤣🤷‍♂️
     

    roostercogburn98

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    Also, for maximum GBPSE points call it a Porsche Cayenne or Audi Q7 diesel engine. Most people won't know that's just fancy speak for VW and you'll sound sophisticated.
    Do you think the block is manufactured by VM Motori?
     

    Numedal

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    Diesels don’t use a blow off because there isn’t a throttle plate (I believe, there may be diesels somewhere gay with a throttle plate)
    A lot of modern diesels have what appears to be a throttle butterfly in the inlet, used to choke the engine to stop it quicker, and to regulate manifold pressure to get EGR working properly, some (including versions of the VW 3.0 V6 TDi) use it to regulate inlet swirl as well.
     
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    TonyTheTiger

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    A couple of my good friends build custom Land Rovers at East Coast Rover. Other than LS swaps, and Rover factory rebuilds; there is a small powerstroke diesel that is a very popular swap in the LR. Pretty sure its standard equipment in a lot of euro trash type stuff. Also pretty sure that a modified version is what lives in the new euro Ranger, and US F150 diesel.
    Buddy of mine keeps telling me the Cummins 2.8 crate motor will be the new hotness in Land Rover world. After a few swaps back in my younger years I generally think vehicles are best with the engines they left the factory with, but his 2000 Discovery absolutely needs more spice in its sauce. It is impressively hard to get stuck though, even with factory suspension and no power.
     
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    XP1K

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    @TheGerman why the VW? Maybe I missed it.

    A couple of my good friends build custom Land Rovers at East Coast Rover. Other than LS swaps, and Rover factory rebuilds; there is a small powerstroke diesel that is a very popular swap in the LR. Pretty sure its standard equipment in a lot of euro trash type stuff. Also pretty sure that a modified version is what lives in the new euro Ranger, and US F150 diesel.

    Let's be clear; I do not think I know the answer, nor am I questioning your end goal. Just curious of the path that led to engine choice.
    What was the small powerstroke based off of, was it the 6 cylinder version of the 6.0 ?

    Another option would be the little 2.8 liter common rail cummins. They used to offer it as a crate motor specifically for swaps.

    I'm more of a fan of the older stuff. 12 valves, 4BT's, 7.3's and dare I say it, the 6.0
     
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    Romeo458

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    If it would heald out I was gonna do the Mercedes om617 in my TJ over the Winter, but sadly the motor is hammering good. Once I get back the whole Jeeps getting an almost frame off overhaul, new 4l, teraflex lift, axle work, all the trimmings. Paint next month, and maybe, an Eaton supercharger
    20220416_105103.jpg
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    roostercogburn98

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    Not sure. To the best of my knowledge VAG has never worked with VM though. Why do you ask?
    Same motor composition using compacted graphite instead of cast. Almost the same power specs as well. Both use variable vane turbos, and hail form the general areas of the world. Just curious if one major producer made them and each respective company did the final work to their desire.
     

    TexPatriot

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    Neighbor used to have one of the old naturally aspirated 7.3's with glass packs. Obnoxiously loud.
    My 7.3 Powerstroke rolls with a 4" straight exhaust sans the muffler. Not loud inside the cab, wonderful sound outside. I make a point to lower the back right window when accelerating past a concrete barrier to hear the Ftttttttttt...
     

    TonyTheTiger

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    Same motor composition using compacted graphite instead of cast. Almost the same power specs as well. Both use variable vane turbos, and hail form the general areas of the world. Just curious if one major producer made them and each respective company did the final work to their desire.
    Yeah those are definitely similarities, but it looks like CGI blocks are getting pretty common and variable vane turbos are pretty standard these days. As long as it wasn't made in the same Mexican factory that did my #53 Cummins block I don't care though.
     
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    MtnGhost

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    I'd consider going with a mid-arm if it's not too late. Bought a '97 TJ with a short arm years ago, and the body roll was awful. Had a long arm (6.25" RE) in my '05 TJR and it handled like a Porsche on the highway, but the LCAs would get hung up off-road. A solid mid-arm is the best of both worlds IMO.

    26D2F7DE-6551-4345-AD5C-39D91C7799BB.jpeg

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    AMGtuned

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    What was the small powerstroke based off of, was it the 6 cylinder version of the 6.0 ?

    Another option would be the little 2.8 liter common rail cummins. They used to offer it as a crate motor specifically for swaps.

    I'm more of a fan of the older stuff. 12 valves, 4BT's, 7.3's and dare I say it, the 6.0
    Its a 4 cylinder.

    I also like the International 7.3 turbo. Minimal hp for what it is, but you can't seem to stop it.
     

    AMGtuned

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    Buddy of mine keeps telling me the Cummins 2.8 crate motor will be the new hotness in Land Rover world. After a few swaps back in my younger years I generally think vehicles are best with the engines they left the factory with, but his 2000 Discovery absolutely needs more spice in its sauce. It is impressively hard to get stuck though, even with factory suspension and no power.
    You could both be right, or close, and it could be a small Cummins that is common. Or its just another tool in the box.

    While I agree that factory is often the way to avoid kinks; the guys at ECR do EVERYTHING else factory new or better when a truck goes through, so some decent power is a nice added bonus. The ones they do with vette engines have some bag. Lots of neat shit goes into shoehorning a v8 into a Defender.
     
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    TexPatriot

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    Its a 4 cylinder.

    I also like the International 7.3 turbo. Minimal hp for what it is, but you can't seem to stop it.
    That beast weighs almost half a ton. Mine cruises comfortably at 70 and when taking a neighbor buddy to the ER last week it did 95 with pedal to spare.
     
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    AMGtuned

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    That beast weighs almost half a ton. Mine cruises comfortably at 70 and when taking a neighbor buddy to the ER last week it did 95 with pedal to spare.
    Definitely do not use a sketchy old floor jack to lift the front x of a powerstroke 4x4; its flaws will be exacerbated 🤦‍♂️
     
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    AMGtuned

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    Yeah the new twin turbo v8 TDI's are real spicy. But a really brave mans man would've swapped in the v10 TDI.
    Truth be told; if I were to build a wrangler (other than cj2a or cj5) , it would be a TJ, and its power plant would more than likely be a stroked 4.0
     
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    n2ishun

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    You want a small engine with plenty of nads.
    You don't want a heavy engine, kills performance and offroad handling.
    This would have been my first choice....about 350 lbs max and easily up to 1000 horse, I've seen them on Terry Drakes dyno with all the exhaust glowing red and pushing 1400 horse.

    65b45ce2d7afe94ac37083ab4ba2310d.jpg
     

    TonyTheTiger

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    You want a small engine with plenty of nads.
    You don't want a heavy engine, kills performance and offroad handling.
    This would have been my first choice....about 350 lbs max and easily up to 1000 horse, I've seen them on Terry Drakes dyno with all the exhaust glowing red and pushing 1400 horse.

    View attachment 7851702
    Dang. Those are BMW M12/13 numbers but 14+ years earlier, although the Offenhauser has a displacement advantage. Thanks for bringing those to my attention, I hadn't read much about them till now.
     

    E. Bryant

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    Definitely do not use a sketchy old floor jack to lift the front x of a powerstroke 4x4; its flaws will be exacerbated 🤦‍♂️

    The front axle weight on my '08 F250 is right around 4800 lbs IIRC. I've never weighed my '04 E350 with a 6.0L, but it may very well be worse since the engine sits a bit more forward than in a pickup. So, yeah, don't skimp on the floor jack. The trolley jack on my Bendpak lift groans pretty good when asked to lift that end of those vehicles.
     
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    XP1K

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    That beast weighs almost half a ton. Mine cruises comfortably at 70 and when taking a neighbor buddy to the ER last week it did 95 with pedal to spare.
    Stock ford diesels are governed at 96. It's really annoying because they have a lot left to give.

    I had a TS performance chip in my 02 7.3 that deleted the speed limiter. After 100 the odometer would go blank and the speedo would fall back to 0. And she just kept pulling. I recommend swamps diesel for 7.3 tuning.

    Had a built 05 with the 6.0, the tuner I had you had to push the button for every mph over the stock limit. I got tired of pushing the button at 135 and figured I'd never see that anyway. I hit it one time. Crew cab long bed 4x4 on 35" toyo m/t's doing 135mph. Truck went across the scales at over 10k.
     

    Daddyusmaximus

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    You need to do a step by step... like I'm doing with my Jeep build.

     

    Maggot

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    I have only one word.

    Soft Tacos.

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    Sniperwannabee

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    My 8000 lbs Diesel. Not my fastest time, just the time slip I had handy. Otherwise, at one time I had a top 50 in the US fastest diesels. You know, pics or it didn't happen. 24 lbs boost? Pffft. You run Condor gear. I used to hit 100 psi. I was once dubbed the Dr. Evil of turbos as I was the first to have high performance ball bearing twin (compound) turbos and designed kits for Cummins.

    PM me if you want to know more.
    Your know telling us this?